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Caravan/Voyager Engine Problems



  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    This type of intermittent problem is often traced to the instrument cluster. The typical fix is to pull the cluster and touch each of the solder points with a hot iron to liquefy and then reset the connection from an electrical perspective. I'm not saying this is definitely the problem, but I'd sure be looking there as a potential source.
  • I had the same thing happen last year. Would work fine in the am when it was cooler out, then in the pm when it was warmer it would stall. Would start right back up again. This happened for a while because they couldn't figure out what the problem was as no codes and no check engine light, then it worked without any problems for about a year. Started having same problems again and finally the check engine light came on and they were able to get the codes. Had the camshaft and crankshaft sensors replaced and this fixed it. However, I recently am having this same problem again. Am wondering if the problem was never fixed or the sensors are going again after 11 months. Am bringing it in tomorrow to have them look at it. It's stalling again, even while I am driving down the road. Then it has to sit for a few minutes before it starts up again. Aggravating.
  • how could the instrument cluster cause this? Could it cause other problems as well, such as the blower motor going and instrument panel lights going out? Thanks. I had this same problem that he described, then had the camshaft and crankshaft sensors fixed, then it worked great since, but now am having the same problems again 11 months later. STalling when I come to a stop and even while I am driving. Always starts up again.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    All of the control signals to the BCM (Body Control Module) pass through the instrument cluster, and when there is an intermittent short, the BCM gets a tad confused. That you're experiencing more problems when things are warmer just reinforces my suspicion that you need to be looking at the solder points behind the instrument cluster.

    The thing about the instrument cluster fix is that it's free (although you do need to account for your time).
  • Could it cause sensors to go haywire? I finally got the check engine light to go after about a year of this problem and no one knowing what the problem was. They got the codes and changed the camshaft and crankshaft sensors, which took care of the problem; however, almost a year later, it's happening again and about the same time of the year that it started happening the first time, when the weather started getting colder.
  • I have a 2001 voyager. It starts and runs great but you touch the gas and it stalls this is new. It ran great tell yesterday. Any I deas
  • I have a 1997 Plymouth grand voyager se 3.3. I have a tapping coming from the lifter. Does anyone know the best way to change out a bad lifter??
  • well i have replaced the fuel filter and the fuel pump and now I have the same thing. I touch the cau and it dies. I am running out of things to do any ideas.

  • The old fashion have to pull the air plenum ,then the head, then there is a holding bracket to remove....sometime the lifters will come out with just a tug of pliers(be careful not to scar them). If they are gunked up you may need to rent a tool to pull them. I have a voyager with a noisy lifter right now, but it isnt worth all the work to replace it since it has over 200k on it and it's on the rear bank and hard to access.
  • knickyknicky Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Grand Caravan and its just over 150k, recently while driving, all the electrical power in the van seems to go out, radio, gauges but there is no loss in power. One time the battery light came on, which I understand can mean the alternator and a couple of times the van will die at a stop. A lot of the problem seems to happen when the AC is on, a few moments later the power seems to be back on. If anyone has any idea why the shorts are happening that would be very helpful... the Mrs. is getting restless...
  • natb1natb1 Posts: 10
    edited July 2011
    Im ususally pretty good with electrical challenges, but for the life of me, I cannot get this blue retainer out of this connector. I cant determine exactly where it latches so I can insert a tool to release it. Its a fuel injector wire harness for a 2001 DGC. Any ideas? click the link below to see the picture.">!119
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Just curious - you already have the connection apart. Why do want to remove the blue insert?
  • natb1natb1 Posts: 10
    Thanks...I got it out. It just needed to be pulled straight out with needle nose pliers. There are no latches inside that keep it in.

    You cant pull the pins out unless the blue feature is removed first. Removing it exposes all the individual pin retainers.

    Thanks for the reply.
  • Hi I have a question, how do I disable the EGR system on Chrysler Grand Voyager 3,3 L 1996 ? Thanks in advance !!!
  • We have had several so called computer/sensor problems solved by replacing the alternator.. It seems that when the regulator circuit starts to go bad they still put out DC but will intermittently put out AC at a frequency that drives the computer nuts.. The flaw is that the same circuit that charges the windings on the alternator also is a direct link through the ASR to the PCM powering lug in the harness..

    Also found that some harnesses have a splice to branch off power to several places including the computer to run the sensors and injectors.. It gets corroded and starts dropping voltage below the 10 volt minimum.. Symptom would be that it runs fine but suddenly shuts down and wont start.. Damp days can enhance or relieve the problem..
  • Rotten splice in the wiring harness dropping voltage from 12+ to below 10vdc or faulty regulator on the alternator.. Eliminate the alternator by unplugging the 2 or 3 wire connector and see if it starts and runs fine.. Had this happen on several engines 2.2 2.4

    Wiring harness with corroded wires will work fine till resistance rises due to heat from current flow.. Damp weather can make it better or worse.. Finding rotten splices can be a bugger but we always start around/under the battery tray, vertical runs up front and crossing runs near the power steering rack.. Removing all that tape and loom to visually inspect sucks so if you have a wiring diagram to check resistance in the wires and a garden hose to get things wet to look for voltage drops kina helps..
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