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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma In-tank fuel pump

jimmurray1946jimmurray1946 Posts: 5
edited April 18 in Chevrolet
can the in tank pump be bypassed and a universal type external pump be mounted. the pumps run about 250 for a replacement but a external universal runs about 50.

Comments

  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    This is the first I've heard of an "external universal fuel pump". Who manufactures them? Do they have a web site? Seems to me that any company that promotes a deviation from designed fuel delivery system is asking for a law suit when the thing starts leaking and burns down the garage. :confuse:
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 873
    There are external pumps, need to be located as close to the tank as possible. Fuel pumps push better than pull. Make sure that the pump pressure is high enough for your application.
    I never put one on, I myself would just bite the bullet and go with in tank.
  • thanks, this is not my truck but belongs to a woman on a limited fixed income that asked me to help her. her husband passed away and she is at a loss as to what to do about the truck as it is her only transportation. to purchase a new pump would reduce her spendable income for the month by half so you see why the external pump is a option. thanks, jim.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Are you sure its the pump? Have you checked the inline pressure with a gauge?
  • valid point, i will do that. i havnt looked at it as yet, i am basing the pump replacement on a report she recieved from a local mechanic shop. thanks for the suggestion.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Before I went to too much trouble, I would change out the fuel filter. It's about $10. bucks and 30 minutes of work for a DIY'er. Don't forget to use your jack stands. :shades:
  • singlewcsinglewc Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I am in the same boat as the OP, with an 88 S10 blazer. Good point about burning down the garage, but the same applies to having to drain 30 gallons out of the tank, before I can drop it :-( so I am curious as well, to know if the pump in the tank, will block the flow, or allow an external one to pull through it.....

    The 200 TBI FI system only requires 9-13 psi, so I am guessing there are some reasonably priced external pumps that can do that, but of course, its not something a dealer would recommend

    I would settle for buying a $50 pump that would let me drive the truck till the tank ran out, and then drop the tank and do it right, and at 16mpg, that wouldn't take much.......

    From a safety pov, using the same signal line to turn on the external pump, would maintain the integrity of whatever else exists between the computer, the oil pressure, and the relays.

    Besides, as I said, I would settle for being able to drive it out of gas. Dropping the tank is not beyond me, but dealing with 30 gallons of fuel, is actually bordering on stupid.... After handling that much fuel, it would take a week for the buzz to wear off, so I could do the pump! :-)

    Thanks for any comments or suggestions.

    John
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Have you crawled under it to see what all is involved to undo the bed and slide it over to get to the top of the tank? When I dropped the tank on my S-10 it had about 10 gallons in it which was more than I wanted to deal with. The next time, before I go through all that again, I'm going to pull the bed. While I have the bed off I'm going to make a removable access plate, something GM should have done from the beginning. ;)
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 873
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Oops, my bad. I thought it was a pick-up. :blush:
  • it is a s-10 PICKUP that my original info request is about.
    thanks, jim
  • You would not be doing this lady any favors by trying to "rig" an external fuel pump. Your talking about opening yourself up to liability issues if an accident or fire should occur. The fuel pump is in the tank for a reason. This system operates between 50-60 PSI with a maximum head pressure of 80-90 PSI. You can get just the fuel pump, you just have to shop around. Then again you run the gambit of breaking the plastic module assembly. Search e(vil)bay, I see there's a butt load of them on there.

    Doc
  • thanks, another avenue i hadnt thought of was e-bay. i have checked the local wrecking yards but was afraid to go that route.
  • You could also use optional electric fuel pump to remove the fuel to another vehicle.
    Not rocket science.
    There's also 5 -6 gallon fuel cans.
    $30 pump, Wally World Fuel Cans $10.
  • hey! i have a saturn 2001 L300 about a 2 months ago it wouldn't crank but after about 20 min. it would crank fine
    2 weeks ago it started cutting completely off going down the road. sometimes it seems i smell fuel. can anyone give advice. i had it at a mechanic but he said until it stopped he couldn't help me ??????
  • My 84 s10 pu jerks and bogs at acceleration. The gas pedal is floored and no speed while jerking. It is a manual 2.8 v6, 5 spd. Plugs, cap, rotor,plug wires all new. Timing set, it runs lean. It did show a 41 code. Carb fuel filter also changed. Any suggestions as to why it won"t accelerate? It almost feels as if it is on a downshift. It won't get past 7 mph when all this occurs. This is my last vehicle. I need any help anyone can offer.Desperate....
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 873
    Check for plugged cat converter.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Sometimes a bad accelerator pump can cause hesitation on take off.
  • will check these 2 things. It's just plain crazy how so far everything has checked out good. Also checking egr.
  • I have a 2000 Chevy S-10 4 wheel drive pickup with 57,000 miles. I haven't been driving the vehicle regularly, but I would start the truck & drive it around the block. I noticed the "check engine" light came on once when I started the vehicle. The next time I attempted to start the truck it would not start. I priced a fuel pump @ an auto parts & nearly had a heart attack when they told me $395.00 plus my old one! The reason I haven't been driving the truck is the Universal joints need replaced. I was told today these vehicles have a fuel pump fuse or reset switch somewhere. Are these guys correct or are they just putting me on because I'm a woman? Are there other things I need to check before towing it to get a fuel pump installed? Thanks for any info.
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 873
    You need to get it towed in and have it properly diagnosed, it could be a number of things.
  • Use your "nightstick" and bang on the tank with the key on. That will usually get the pump operating and the vehicle will start. That is a temporory fix to get it somewhere to have the pump replaced. I have a fleet of GM vehicles, and this trick works if it's the pump.
    Those pumps are very expensive, and replacing them is also expensive, because the tank has to be drained and lowered to get at the pump. It's a simple job, IF you have the proper equipment, such as a vehicle lift, and a roll around tank with a pump to drain the tank, and refill it when finished.
    While you have it on the rack, get those U-joints replaced..! I don't know why the u-joints would be out at that low mileage, unless you 4 wheel it and it's seen a lot of water and mud. My personal S-10 with 160K on it has the original U-joints. Perhaps get them checked to make sure that is the problem.
    Good luck
  • What should the fuel pressure be on a 1996 s-10 4.3 eng. :confuse:
  • cruzer23cruzer23 Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 S-10 4x4 too with pump problems, there is a fuse/relay in the fuse block in the engine compartment for the fuel pump. You can swap it with the one for the horn for a quick check. I got a new pump at Advanced Auto for $290.00.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Today's cars have the fuel pump inside the fuel tank. If there is fuel leaking to the point where you smell fuel it is probably some where along the fuel line. Next time you get it started trace the fuel line out hand over hand from the tank to the injectors. It's time consuming but its cheaper than paying your mechanic to do it. Just remember before you crawl under your car make sure you have jack stands under it.
  • reaper1reaper1 Posts: 1
    Hi, yes I can. The carb gasket has an electrical grid , If the ceramic grid is damaged, the truck will behave with the same symptoms you have descibed.
    The grid is heated and provides proper atomization of the fuel, when it is damaged
    I think the piece of crap carb ices up. I had the same problem, rebuilt the carb,but it
    didn't help. Replaced the $80.00 gasket and it solved it!
This discussion has been closed.