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2008 Subaru Legacy

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  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,392
    Yeah, I think about that often. I just do not have any other reliable pocket in which to place it. I have noticed, though, after that 5 week trip and not having the wallet in my pocket most of the time, I usually end up forgetting my wallet at home. Such is the case today, when I really need to fill up with fuel in order to make it home. Interesting conundrum. Darn - just realized that, actually. I hope I can make it there and back; the fuel light turned on about 3 miles from work this morning! :blush:
  • I am trying to decide between a AT and MT in the 08 Legacy GT. I had an 04 OB 2.5i MT and it was lacking in the performance dept. I do alot of mountain freeway driving. Anyone have feedback on this?
    Also someone in an earlier post mentioned the need for 3,750 mile oil changes now required for the 08 GT's. This is the first I have heard about this. Does the turbo put that much stress on the engine?
    Someone also mentioned using a cat back exhaust and cold air intake. Are these reasonable modifications to wake up the car a little more. Are there other mods to consider? Do they work to really increase performance? What about warranty?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Get an MT, then you won't even need to worry about the mods. They're already plenty quick. :shades:
  • cjeancjean Posts: 1
    Anyone having trouble with 20008 Suburu Legacy--I am a loyal Suburu owner very disappointed in my new car--Had it in to dealer twice for same problem which they can not find and fix--noise--sometimes loud --metal -clanging--left front--done all brake checks--sounds awful--but not all the time--hard to get the noise on command--thinking I have a lemon--really thinking of trading--
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    It shouldn't be hard to find, I'd think it were a heat shield of sorts.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I was thinking the same thing...
  • I am going to buy a Subaru Legacy 2.5i Limited and wonder if anyone of you guys buy extended warranty for rust proofing? and would you guys recommend it?
  • artourartour Posts: 22
    I bought a gt in July and took a warranty for 1 item - the tires. They wanted $15/mo for it but I offered $5 and we settled on $6. It didn't make sense to buy anything else.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I've seen dealers sell extended warranties, and rust proofing, seperately.

    But an extended warranty for rust proofing?

    The rust proofing just isn't necessary. They use galvanized steel nowadays, so unless there is damage they will outlast the warranty anyway.
  • thank you guys! just read up on galvanized steel and it seems as though I wont need any extended warranty on rust
  • cptpltcptplt Posts: 1,075
    some ext warranty products will void your factory warranty. additional rustproofing and paint/fabric sealant etc stuff are little more than ways for the dealer to make a real profit .
  • hmckayhmckay Posts: 1
    I just recently purchased my first new car - a 2008 Subaru Legacy 2.5i Limited Edition. Can't wait to get the car on the road! I have a week or so to make up my mind on warranties for the car - looking for some input.

    I've decided on getting an extended warranty, and am leaning towards the 6 yr. It's about $500 more than the 5-year, but $1100 less than the 7-year. Any thoughts? :confuse:

    Don't think i'll be getting the Tire and Rim Protection unless someone can convince me otherwise. It's $399, only good for 5 years and has a $5000 limit. Is this worth the extra money? :confuse:

    Finally, also debating getting the rust protection. I come from Newfoundland, where winter's can be harsh on cars, but it's another $500, and though its guaranteed for the life of the vehicle, it only covers rusting which began on the INSIDE of the vehicle. I Would've thought that rusting generally starts on the outside? :confuse:

    Any suggestions would really help me out!
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    The time extension of the warranty is really dependent on how many miles you drive a year. I only extended mine to 5 years 100k miles cause I do about 20k miles a year and I'll be out of miles long before the 5 years.

    -mike
  • Hi, is it true that you need to "break-in" the car before you're able to drive it on the highway? by breaking in i mean drive is on local streets and stufff for a certain amount of time before being able to drive it on the highway?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Only need to keep it under 4k for the first 1500-2000 miles.

    -mike
  • jfljfl Posts: 1,346
    That's 4000 rpm on the engine for the first 1500-2000 miles.

    And don't sweat it if you go over 4000 rpm for an instant or two, just don't drive for miles and miles at that high an rpm during break-in.

    My manual transmission turns 3000 rpm at 70mph in fifth gear so that 4000 rpm limit shouldn't cause problems in everyday driving. (I think an automatic turns an even lower rpm at 70.)

    Another typical recommendation is not to drive for several hours at one set rpm. (So don't take a two hour drive with cruise control.) Vary the rpms a bit.

    Jim
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,392
    The rust protection is truly a waste of money. Harsh winters or not, the car should not rust within the first 10 years. As for rust inside the vehicle, the best way to avoid problems with your interior is to use an all-weather floor mat that prevents water from saturating the carpet.

    Also, the price of Subaru's extended warranty is negotiable, so if your local dealer is not willing to come down on the price of the package, you can always look for a dealer who will. The warranty comes from the factory, not from the dealer. It is not imperative that you buy it there. Additionally, you can purchase it at any time prior to the expiration of the 3-year, 36,000 mile base warranty.
  • great info! i'll make sure i dont go over 4000 rpm when i do highway driving nor will i drive w/ a set rpm for a long period of time. THANKS!
  • i bought the car in sept.and what a sweet ride, but..........
    had a few problems with it well one major,the rear defrost shorts out the radio,
    dealer said it was the tint, ripped it off, no go... swapped radios no go.. replaced rear window no go.. gouged the paint no go.. put a dent in it no go.. ripped the front seat no go.... i hate bennington subaru!!!!!!!!!! well my car is in the shop again being painted.. i hope it comes out black like it went in... but i doubt it. but it goes like a raped ape!!!! I :cry: should of went to kinney subaru!!!!!!
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    It was likely the tint that caused the issue with the reception. I have the same problem on my wagon.

    -mike
    Motorsports and Modifications Host
  • Not sure if this has been posted elsewhere, but here's a very positive review about the new (in the UK) Legacy diesel:
    http://cars.uk.msn.com/Reviews/article.aspx?cp-documentid=7283675

    Let's hope this finds its way to North America very soon!
  • no after the tint was off, it still did it, even put in a new rear window, comes and goes, just like a ghost,

    whats messed up is subaru only "factory tints" tribeca's. the rest is a stick on port tint.
    i think if i want to be able to have a " Stained' factory tint i should be able too. at leaast most other car companies offer that, :lemon:
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Actually, any "car" does not come with factory tint, I believe it's a safety issue regulation. The Tribecca and Forester are considered ligt-trucks and thus can have factory tint.

    -mike
    Motorsports and Modifications Host
  • 2001 Legact GT wagon with dual sunroofs. It recently started leaking out of the extra shoulder belt assy. I thought it would be difficult to access the headliner, but not the case. Most everything snaps apart. ( and together, I hope)- Three pieces of trim and a few brackets later I was able to lower the headliner enough to get a look. Quite a cluster up there. Turns out that the small hose connected to the passenger side sunroof drain-is that what it is?- had come loose. It is very close to the shoulder belt. Problem solved, I guess.

    Where does this hose exit the vehicle, and where is the drain in the sunroof? I can see nothing that resembles a drain.

    Great car--also have an 07 Forester.

    Dave............
  • I'm sorry--posted in wrong discussion
  • I have read my manual and looked around forums. I am getting mixed information on when to do my first oil change. Some say after 3000miles, while others say after 1000miles. So i'm writing this post to see what you subaru owners are doing and which alternative do you guys recommend?

    One more thing: is synthetic oil recommended on the first oil change?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    3000 for the first change. Don't go to synthetic until 10k miles.

    -mike
  • bodble2bodble2 Posts: 4,519
    Does anyone have access to the owner's manual or other manual that could shed light on the following:

    Does the system protect the hatch and hood, in addition to the doors?

    Does the system "chirp" when arming and disarming?

    When disarming, does the system exhibit a different sequence of chirps or light flash if the alarm had been triggered in your absence? ie. instead of chirping twice, it may chirp 5 times, etc.

    In some earlier Subie models, if the alarm had been triggered, you can identify what had been opened or tampered with by way of a sequence of flashes of an indicated light on the dash. Same for 2008 Legacy and Outback?

    Can the system be programmed for passive arming?

    Thanks in advance.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    No hood sensor, I know that.

    As for if it lets you know, you may want to try leaving a door window open and locking the car. Then open the door from the inside and let the alarm go off. Then see what it tells you.

    As long as you lock the doors it's passive, it works based off the locking mechanism.

    You can have it chirp or not chirp, your choice.

    -mike
    Motorsports and Modifications Host
  • bodble2bodble2 Posts: 4,519
    "As long as you lock the doors it's passive, it works based off the locking mechanism."

    Ok...I know what you mean. But what I meant was could it be programmed to arm and lock by itself after all the doors are closed. IIRC, some earlier Subies had Alpine-made security systems that could do that.
This discussion has been closed.