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Subaru Tribeca 2008

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Comments

  • njvt13njvt13 Posts: 14
    where exactly is the manufacturing date on the drivers door?? couldnt locate it.

    i have taken my car back like 3 times already complaining about the noisy rear hatch and all they did was adjust the "striker" for the hatch to try and make it close tighter......but obviously it did not work.

    i am sure it is the rear hatch and not the headliner. and i know i should not be bothered by the little things, but this is not little, it is "excessive" noise, and for the price i pay a month that noise should not be there.
  • where exactly is the manufacturing date on the drivers door?? couldnt locate it.

    i have taken my car back like 3 times already complaining about the noisy rear hatch and all they did was adjust the "striker" for the hatch to try and make it close tighter......but obviously it did not work.

    i am sure it is the rear hatch and not the headliner. and i know i should not be bothered by the little things, but this is not little, it is "excessive" noise, and for the price i pay a month that noise should not be there.


    Did you have them check to see if it is the license plate that is rattling? I had this one of my cars not to long ago and it drove me nuts trying to figure out where it was coming from. Finally figured out it was the license plate, stuck a couple pieces of foam strips to the back and no noise. Worth a shot. :shades:
  • morey000morey000 Posts: 320
    re: Alaska mileage:

    16.2mpg does seem a bit low, but any car, including the 'beca, will get reduced fuel economy on short trips and in cold weather. I've got a 13 mile commute, major boulevards 40-55mph and I'm averaging 20-21mpg with conservative driving. (measured at fill-up, not off the computer).

    Good luck keeping the black clean the AK winter. :shades:
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Extreme cold kills mileage. Especially if you take mostly short trips (engine not fully warm).
  • njvt13njvt13 Posts: 14
    ya the license plate is one of the first things i checked, definetly not it.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    The milage also may be down due to the oil. I would switch to Amsoil Synthetic 0w30 and synthetic fluids in the front and rear diffys. This is fairly common in AK and other cold climates. Will help milage increase a lot.

    -mike
    Motorsports and Modifications Host
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 5,854
    Saw my first Nissan Rogue on the road yesterday which made me think of the B9 and inspired a blog entry...

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  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. ;)
  • morey000morey000 Posts: 320
    I guess I should have noted that I live in Tucson, AZ.
    I expect, just a tad warmer than anywhere in AK.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Oh yeah, then maybe it's all that A/C you need! :D
  • toboggantoboggan Posts: 283
    That's my plan with the Tribeca. But I'm going to wait until about 7500 miles have accumulated. Amsoil ATF will also go into the transmission. My '98 OBW has had Amsoil in the engine since 5,000 miles. Changed the transmission-front diff and rear diff to 75W90 Amsoil at later mileage (can't remember the miles - senior moment :D )

    MNSteve
  • toboggantoboggan Posts: 283
    Welcome to the forum! :shades:
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I'm not sure I'd replace the trans fluid in an AT with Amsoil or any other synthetic these days. I know my Armada uses "Type J" and I just have the dealer do it. I believe the newer Subies ATs take special fluids as well, so check on that before swapping over.

    -mike
    Motorsports and Modifications Host
  • toboggantoboggan Posts: 283
    Yup, I'll certainly make sure.

    MNSteve
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,391
    Not sure where the original poster is located in Alaska, but here in Fairbanks, I have averaged between 19 and 21 this winter with a 2.5-liter Outback, depending on the ambient temperatures. Also not sure whether she garages it, which will make a BIG difference, at least on her trip TO work! All told, 16.2 seems pretty good to me, considering the size of the vehicle. The economy will go up significantly come spring.

    If it makes her feel any better, I have averaged about 14 mpg with my old "AWD" Caravan this winter. Last summer, it was consistently giving 19+.
  • I live in Wasilla. Hi fellow Alaskan! I sure hope it goes up during the spring.
    I do keep it garaged.
    19-21 mpg sounds a lot better to me - especially for the frigid Fairbanks temps!
    I guess there is quite a size difference between the two! :)
  • see my post under rattling/noise in rear hatch
  • someone erased the discussion on rattle in rear hatch area!!... Subaru says it was due to excessive play in rear drivers side seat hinge , they added modified washers to the hinges to make seat assembly tighter , but did not eliminate the problem. The seat assembly visibly vibrates over bumps in road also noise from other areas of rear cargo area , rear hatch door has movement.. anyone have sucess in eliminating the rattles/noise in rear cargo area? Been to dealer 3 times now for noise/rattle issue and local dealer makes you feel as if your bothering them.
  • njvt13njvt13 Posts: 14
    YEEEESSSSSS!!!!!! i have the same exact problem! the rear hatch seems to vibrate violently when go over anything other than a smooth paved road surface. I have brought the car back 2 times so far and all they have done is moved the striker deeper so the hatch shuts tighter, but it has not helped at all. Also the rear seat behind the driver makes a ridiculous rattle sound, because of that i now drive with my seats folded down which is absurd that i have to do that after buying a brand new car 3 months ago.

    I also feel as if there is now animosity between myself and the dealer because of these recurring problems. I feel as is they think I am crazy, but it makes me feel better that i now know i am not b/c you are having the same exact issues.

    i am bringing my car back once again this coming tuesday to try and get the issues resolved.
  • nickelnickel Posts: 147
    You don't have to go to the same dealership if you think there's ineptitude on them. You are under warranty.

    Any problem door related is purely a mechanical one, so you don't have to be a genius to figure out that if the door has 10 parts, one of them is the culprit, you only have to check each one.

    In my old Forester I had the same noise. After spending time in the dealership, I also got frustrated, because the noise kept coming back. So I decided to check in one of the Forester groups here in Edmunds, and the most common solution was to check and grease the small "locks" that my car had in the hatch sides. Taken from a 2000 Forester forum:

    armac13, "Subaru Forester (up to 2005)" #163, 25 Oct 2000 10:50 pm!keywords=allin%3Amsgtext%20limit%3A.ee94fe5%20hatch

    I solved my problem, that as you seem described happens to almost every hatch. Hope it can help solve yours.
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