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Midsize Sedans 2.0



  • cskicski West Springfield, VAPosts: 1,249
    Oh have the '13 Accord Sport, right? Is there a wife driving the 07? Or is it a backup/winter car? Up there, I bet it makes sense to put the new car in the garage and just drive the '07, possibly with winter tires. See...I told you I had more burning questions! Maybe I should umm; see someone about that :sick: :confuse:

    Since I have a condo w/o a garage; I just looked into car covers. I am tired of the pollen, nuts purple berries, and birdsh** from this giant oak tree that hangs over my assigned spaces. $40 for a mid-size sedan triple layer, waterproof cover sounds good. (ebay-free shipping).
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    edited May 2013
    Good idea, except that car has to be clean before you don it. If you go out and get caught with 1/4 mi of construction dust (or whatever) then putting the cover off and on creates hairline scratches. This too depends on the type of gravel dust in your area. Here it is pretty and pink granite..
    I found that out the hard way one year just after having a new windshield installed on my Pathfinder. I had a bit of moisture on the glass right where I was looking through, so used a napkin and found out later that I had scratched my brand new windshield as if I had done it with a diamond ring :( Found a splash drop of road sand (was winter time) had found its way to the..what I thought was a clean napkin, and that dirt drop splash was enough to do the dirty :(

    Also found out just how soft some replacement windshield glass can be. They sure aren't all created equal, so if you end up negotiating that they pay your deductible, make sure it's for a decent quality piece of glass or you're better off just paying your deductible, but making sure you get the good stuff.

    edit - I guess a portable shelter is outta the suburbia-diseased question, right?
  • cskicski West Springfield, VAPosts: 1,249
    edited May 2013
    I guess you haven't seen my car pics. I am a bit obsessive on keeping it clean. Some of the pic's are from DC where I work.

    Here they are: No grain of sand goes unpunished!
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    edited May 2013
    Actually, yes, I recall them from shortly after you first bought the trade, however, I don't remember seeing. :surprise:
    Pretty sure I'd have remembered that fine specimen, lol

    Yes, you do keep quite the clean house..

    It sure is purdy to be sure..

    edit - is that a stock sound system? That has to sound pretty good, yet I have heard it's a weak point in the Optima..maybe on the stock/base car?
  • Speaking of OCD cleaning....has anyone used the 3M clear film system on the front of their cars? I'm considering this BEFORE the rock chips and sand blasting occurs.
  • dieselonedieselone Posts: 5,650
    Speaking of OCD cleaning....has anyone used the 3M clear film system on the front of their cars? I'm considering this BEFORE the rock chips and sand blasting occurs.

    My BIL has used that on his last two Acura MDXs and it seems to work while not being all that noticeable.
  • deerlake7deerlake7 Posts: 162
    I've used the 3M film (Scotchcal) on my last 5, or 6 cars since 2000. It's kept the front of my hood free from any type of damage.
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 9,667
    I saw an ad for a 3M DIY spray on product, that's removeable and supposedly lasts up to a year.
  • cskicski West Springfield, VAPosts: 1,249
    Check into Lamin-X and rvinyl for their competing products. I am a customer to both and personally vouch for their products and customer service. My Lamin-X foglight covers are pre-cut and anyone can install them. I would have a pro install the big stuff, like anything over 2 feet square. There is a 10% coupon code for lamin-x. It is: 10OFF
  • cskicski West Springfield, VAPosts: 1,249
    edited May 2013
    "edit - is that a stock sound system? That has to sound pretty good, yet I have heard it's a weak point in the Optima..maybe on the stock/base car?"

    Sorry, just saw your edit with a question on the LX/EX stereo system. In short, the system lacks good bass response, at least to my ears. It has 6 speakers, but Kia chose to put the rear speakers in the doors, instead of the rear deck, which would use the entire trunk for bass response. So, to solve this I bought a sub-woofer instead of paying $2500 more for the luxury package which included the factory Infinity sub, (which IS mounted in the rear deck).

    The Infinity Bass-link sub (shown here) is a 10" powered unit, and takes up only 1 cubic foot of space. Price? Roughly $220. I bought mine on e-bay, and I had it installed at a local shop for $80. The controls (set and forget basically) are on the other side so they can be accessed by folding the seat down. There is a remote volume knob installed on the lower dash.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    That sounds like an excellent idea on both cost and result fronts. So is that Infinity Sub, the identical unit to the optioned up one used in the EX? Or is it same in name only? I am guessing that even high-end sound systems in OEM use powered subs too?

    The stereo in my CRV is terrible. I think though that it is so bad, that to get the result I'm after I need to replace the head unit (they must {and usually do} use a very cheap amplifier as OEM base units, but is made worse because this one also has a cassette player as part of the 6 CD unit, so I am guessing even extra cheap amp components) and all the speakers..6 , four in the doors and two tweeters in the dash. They are all shyte. I have an aftermkt powerful amp and sub and Sony (I think) unit I got from my nephew but he lost the manuals and I have no idea (well some actually) idea of how to wire it all up. I'm pretty sure I could figure it out, but what I don't know is how to fine tune it so-to-speak in terms of best compatibilities and what best speakers to replace all the OEM ones. The modern aftmkt stuff (in past 5-6 years) is a lot more complicated than the really good systems of 15-20 years ago or so. Bridgeable amps etc etc. I was going to hire a guy to install, but have procrastinated because I really don't like this car, but can't afford to replace it. Plus I use it for contracting, and often need the actually cu footage that a sub would use up. But I guess I should bite the bullet and have this system installed and it would at least help me like the car a bit better. One of my issues with it is such loud road/wind noise that I think that is one reason the OEM stereo is so out of its element. And, while an aftermkt one has the power to help block it out, in reality terms it really doesn' it is all just cumulative or compounded noise.

    Take a GREAT sounding sound system in a quiet living room and listen to it (quite) cranked...(the way I listen to a lot of my music). Now take that same sound system in the same living room and same db setting, but add in 20 people all partying trying to be heard over each other and the sound system and now everything is muddied.

    My next vehicle will be known to be extra quiet I hope. And would love to have a great OEM stereo with no messing around after the fact to make it into one. I'm into a LOT of super clean power, so that bass etc can sound extra clean and tight at low or high volumes.

    Of the mid-sized out there I hear the Dodge 200 has quite a good stock base car system (not confirmed but read it on an Edmunds forum). Perhaps its best quality? But of the mid-sizers, which new car has the best stock base (or one up from base but not top end), since often three levels of sound systems are offered? Years ago Honda (early 90's or so?) along with Toyota Camry but NOT Corolla, had pretty good base systems. But at least in 05 Honda sure has dropped the ball. Any old/new GM probably has a system that sounds easily twice as good.

    Couple weeks ago spent some time in a friends new ML350. Not THAT thing had some freakin' great sound. Unfortunately though he was not into very loud music and another friend had brought along a Wayne Hancock "That's What Daddy Wants", that was absolutely begging to be cranked in the ML..
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Posts: 2,697
    edited May 2013
    I wonder if that is really a 2014 as it will be seen in the US.
    Many websites show pics of non-US models and call it the next years model, but it is really only alternate styling used in other markets.
    The pics are clearly not of a US-spec Sonata.
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Posts: 2,697
    edited May 2013
    It is supposed to be out this summer with an 1.5 liter option replacing the 1.6 option on automatic-equipped models. It is supposed to increase fuel economy noticeably without reducing performance.
    The 1.5 is also supposed to be smoother and quieter than the 1.6.
    Besides that, the SE option packages are changed. You will finally be able to buy a Fusion with Smart entry and push button start without having to choose the Titanium model.
    I was not considering the 2013 because I wanted push button start but was not willing to pay for a Titanium and didn't want the over-sized, expensive, harsh-riding, low profile tires that are mandatory on the Titanium anyway.
    Because of these changes for 2014, I will finally test drive a Fusion and see if the front seat headrests are as uncomfortable and annoying as some people say.
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 9,667
    In other words, you haven't driven a 2013 Fusion, but are willing to believe the negative things 'some others' say.
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Posts: 2,697
    edited May 2013
    I had no reason to drive it because I knew I was not going to buy one without push starter and smart entry and I was also not buying a Titanium with 19 inch wheels.
    No reason to waste time test driving if it didn't meet my criteria at the time. - n-impresses-in-every-way-but-one/ ml?style=200421095&sub=&reviewId=358564146
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 9,667
    I have a 2013 Fusion Titanium with 19 inch wheels.
    The wheels are optional.
    No need to bash something because it doesn't meet your particular criteria.
    Personally, push button start/remote entry is ok, but a security risk.
    I'd be ok with a Titanium with less power.
    Although I didn't go to either one of the links you posted, I see one is from Forbes.
    Do you get your financial advice from Edmunds? :P
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Posts: 2,697
    edited May 2013
    I don't want 18 inch wheels either. 17 inch max. Hence, Titanium is not an option for me.
    There was no "bashing." I gave the reasons why I don't want large, low profile tires.
    For 2014, it looks like there may be a possibility of configuring it in an acceptable way (assuming the smart entry isn't bundled in a package that adds 18 wheels) and assuming that the headrests and not a problem for me.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,157
    > no "bashing." I gave the reasons why I don't want large, low profile tires.

    I am with you on the smaller diameter rims with a taller sidewall to absorb bumps and potholes, if any. I do not like the way a nicer car is always mated to larger rims and lower profile tires. It should be a choice, and not a mandate with an upscale package. To each his own.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    I agree whole heartedly about the larger rims. I get that they look better, but only because the dang mfgrs are making wheel wells begging to be filled. Big rims suck in all ways except aesthetics.

    I also agree on the too-close-to-the-head headrests. It may not be an issue for those who sit with their seat back reclined even a little past slight, but for those with lower back issues, for example, who have to have the seat back relatively upright, these new type so-called safety oriented head restraints, suck worse than big wheels. Glad to hear others voice their opinion.
    Tall drivers who sit with the seat back well reclined and who can't relate, need not respond, cuz you'll be talkin' to the hand.
  • cskicski West Springfield, VAPosts: 1,249
    edited May 2013
    The Fusion with OEM 19" rims look great at least. I like "right sized" rims. I see a lot of cars on the road who's owners have made grave errors in judgement. I am talking about 22" and up, non OEM monstrosities on the wrong cars.

    We have all seen them. Like cars with tiny brakes and giant; see through flat black rims look terrible, no matter what make and model. Here is a particularly bad lapse in good sense:
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 9,667
    My point is, rim size by itself doesn't completely determine ride quality. Tires make big difference.
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Posts: 2,697
    edited May 2013
    Bigger rims equal lower profile tires if they are going to fit the same car properly. Lower profile tires equal worse ride. More rubber and air between the rim and the road equals better ride.
    Multiple reviews mention worse ride with the larger wheels on this car and others. There is no way the thin low profile 40-45 series tires of any brand can be comparable to the best riding "normal" tires. Maybe they are not "that bad," riding on a Fusion but I want the best ride and least road noise in this type of car, so 18-19" tires are not for me. It would be different if I was getting a sports car or was buying a car just for looks.
    The 17 inch tires on the Fusion SE are already lower profile that the average tire was a few years back. I'd actually prefer the 16 inch 60 series tires on the Fusion S, but that trim level is too stripped of available options.
    It's not even just the ride deterioration and added road noise. They cost much more to replace. The tread life is low so you are back to the tire shop getting them replaced more often and spending more money per tire. There is usually a fuel economy hit associated with bigger rims and lower profile tires.
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 9,667
    Tires are kind of like pizzas. You can't tell by the size which one you will like best.
    We have a 2004 Escape, original tires were 16 inch and were good for about 35k of noisy miles. Our 2009 Escape has 17 inch lower profile tires and they are going to be good for at least 80k and are much quieter.
    I had a 2007 Fusion with 17 inch Michelin tires, they didn't ride better than the 19 inch on my 2013.
    The tires on my 2007 Fusion were rated as Low Rolling Resistance. Looking at the tire width, it was a result of it having more space across the tread bands than some narrower tires.
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Posts: 2,697
    edited May 2013
    Invalid comparisons since you are comparing different vehicles.
    Tires will not completely make up for and older car not riding as well as a newer model.
    One the same vehicle, better riding, less expensive, longer lasting tires will be available in the higher profile, smaller tires.
    I am not cross-shopping 2004 vs 2009 or 2007 vs 2013 cars.
  • cskicski West Springfield, VAPosts: 1,249
    edited May 2013
    Adding a sub-woofer to a stock stereo is usually the best way to go these days. Why?

    Stock head units incorporate lots of useful functions, such as Bluetooth, USB and line in (i-pod/mp-3 player support) plus Satellite radio, digital FM, and most importantly, steering wheel controls. If you want to upgrade your recent-model-year stereo, the new unit has it's work cut out for it. Also, keep in mind that aftermarket stereo's are a huge target for theft. If a thief see's a stock head unit, he will move on.

    So, adding a powered sub allows you to keep your car stock looking, while enjoying a powerful and responsive system. You can also replace the crappy paper speakers in all the doors, but honestly I don't even recommend that until you have already added the sub and still are left wanting.

    The Infinity sub in my car is NOT the same as the factory unit, but I like the thought of having a sub from an OEM supplier at least, and it only takes up 1 cubic foot.

    The sub and amp your nephew gave you is a great way to get started. You will be able to download the instructions for it online, but even if not...generic sub-woofer instructions will do. I have a bad back, so crawling into my trunk was not an option, so I paid for a pro installation. ($80)

    PS: Lots of Honda's used to have standard single DIN stereo slots, which makes upgrading a cinch. If any of you are considering it and have odd sized OEM stereo's, buy from Crutchfield's online catalog. They include all wiring harness and mounting kit's for free with purchase. Sony is a good quality and affordable brand name that I trust. IMO/FYI

    Lastly, here is an example of the great deals on gear. There are HUGE discounts due to the aforementioned diminishing market on car audio. m.html
  • cskicski West Springfield, VAPosts: 1,249
    edited May 2013
    The Sonata is a global model, and while it does have Korean plates; there is nothing in the pictures suggesting that the car would need any changes to sell it in the USA. There are no drivetrain changes and the bulk of the difference in looks is limited to wheels, LED lighting, and better quality interior assembly w/ added center stack buttons. :)

    Here are the pictures again for all to review: sonata-facelift.html
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    Lots of good points, thanks. That link to crutchfield seems too good to be true? 200 bucks? Assuming it is good quality stuff and not Walmart-shelf stuff. But just to confirm, that example system is what you would use with a quite new last 2 to 3 years max? I have no Bluetooth or even an aux input (car is 05). Is that same system useable in my car you think, even though many of its features wouldn't be able to be used. The idea being that it would be useable if I get a newer car.
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Posts: 2,697
    edited May 2013
    Cars in different markets very often have trim differences even if the basic body of the car is the same. Things like different taillights, turn signals, changes to the interior, different options available etc..
    The cars are tweaked for the tastes in different regions of the world.
    There are sometimes differences between US and Canadian models of the same car much less US vs Korean market cars.
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 9,667
    It's a great example. The Escape had the same bones from 2001 to 2012.
    Many parts are either the same or interchangeable between years.
    Tires and wheels can be swapped between any of those years.
    Tire expense per set will probably be less with a smaller tire, but they may be lower quality and not last as long.
    On the other hand a smaller high quality tire may cost more the a larger lower quality tire.
    My point is it's not cut and dry, there are several variables.
    Pretty much everyone knows this.
  • m6userm6user Posts: 2,991
    IN GENERAL, larger tires of the same brand and quality cost more. So do the wheels if they are ever damaged. I think that is the one of the main points. The fact that in a few vehicles it may be hard to notice the ride difference when you have a short sidewall, larger diameter tire is NOT the point. IN GENERAL, the shorter sidewalls of same brand and quality of tires will ride rougher.

    To compare cheap larger tires to expensive smaller tires for a price comparison is silly. Using same brand and quality the larger tires will nearly always cost more and the short sidewalls always ride tighter. They might not ride bad but they will ride a little different and sometimes the extra handling will outweigh the tauter ride in the dirver's eye. But the fact that a short sidewall will take less of a beating. It's just physics.

    IMO 17" are plenty big and they should just design the wheelwells to look good with 17". If someone wants larger the manufacturers should have them as an option and not mandatory if you want a few other options. I spent $900 on Micheliens at Costco for 17" tires. I hate to think what the 18"s on my new car are going to cost me. Probably $1100 or $1200.
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