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Midsize Sedans 2.0



  • vservser Posts: 48
    I really could care less about the warranty. What concerns me is how long any car will be in the shop getting fixed. Sure, I'd rather not pay for the repairs. But what good is a warranty if you don't have a car to drive.

    The Kia dealers talks about why "doesn't honda give you a 10 year", etc etc. They should say you probably won't need our warranty, be it's here if you do. Kia is up against it when it comes to convincing ppl to buy.

    On another note, I see that a lot of ppl trade older kias for newer ones. I wonder if that's bc Kia gives the best trade in allowance for their cars.
  • ivan_99ivan_99 Posts: 1,669
    I agree, that was my point...not even 20 years 200,000 warranty can persuade some people; the people that value longevity.

    I mimic the consensus...I'd like to avoid the whole repair-process if possible. I believe the Kia's were on-par (or similar) to the Honda/Toyota...etc. I suppose it takes time to change perspective/reputation...
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 9,668
    I thought that was an inspired comment and pretty funny, too.
    That's why I put HAHA at the end.
    Bias and opinions are fine, we all have them, but I will point out misinformation when I find it.
    My hope is people will see this forum as a resource, not just a place where proponents of Brand A take potshots at Brand B, C, D,...Z.
  • cskicski West Springfield, VAPosts: 1,249
    It swayed me, and allows potential customers to get over the Kia badge, and dispels questions about quality that come from some people about owning a Kia. Also, I have a family; including three school age children who depend on this car; and the warranty gives me peace of mind. I can't handle a sudden $3000 bill for a transmission for example.

    I have not heard of Kia offering a 20/200 warranty here, but I live in a very international area, and Kia's have been sold successfully in other countries for decades so very few people care about the badge. There are zillions of Kia's in DC metro.

    Finding a reliable car that won't end up in the shop all the time is tricky. Sometimes going with the underdog brand with something to prove will net you a very good car, instead of blindly going with Accord or Camry year after year hoping the bean counters wont make the engineers rest on their laurels.
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,688
    The point was you can buy a 7 yr/100K mile extended warranty on a new vehicle for around $1500 (or less) and finance it with the vehicle to avoid that big repair bill. And unless you only drive 10K miles per year that's the same coverage as Kia's 10yr/100K mile warranty and it's transferrable to future buyers.

    So you can just add $1500 to an Accord, Camry, Fusion, Altima, Malibu, etc. and have the same "peace of mind". It's not a bad thing but it's not something that's exclusive to the Koreans.
  • cskicski West Springfield, VAPosts: 1,249
    You are right! Since I am the original owner I never cared to go look it up.

    I did find out if you buy a used Kia CPO it DOES transfer so that is good.

    I purchased an extended warranty to extend the 5/60 bumper to bumper to 100k, and I am not sure if it transfers or not. I hope to keep my car until the warranty expires, and then some.
  • cskicski West Springfield, VAPosts: 1,249
    This is the Optima I originally noticed and thought was so cool. I had gone with my mother to help her buy a Forte' back in 2010, and this car was on the lot: 746&tracktype=usedcc&aff=national#0

    After we were finished signing the contract and I got her on her way; the last thing she said to me was "your going to buy one aren't you?" A week later I came home with my baby. I didn't end up with this one, as the price tag was $31,000 - but I loved the style of the car and I still do.
  • cskicski West Springfield, VAPosts: 1,249
    Yes, I am aware of that keenly. I was pointing out a particularly nice car to gimmee, and the post had nothing to do with warranty terms. It had to do with how much car you can get for $23,000.

    I have an extended warranty on my Optima, because when you think about it, most of the components that are likely to fail are not covered under basic powertrain warranties. Radiators, water pumps, power steering, alternators, CV joints, half shafts, sensors and electronics, emissions, exhaust, etc......all are not covered under the 10/100 powertrain.

    The low mileage car that was pictured would have been a CPO car if it was sold at a Kia dealer, and CPO cars do retain the 100k powertrain warranty.
  • ab348ab348 Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, CanadaPosts: 1,869
    Length of warranty and reliability go together, but one is not a substitute for the other. I bought a '09 Buick Lacrosse (the old style) that had chronic transmission issues, all covered under warranty. After numerous repair attempts the car still was not right and I gave up on it. I got a good deal when I bought it and got a good deal when I traded it so the financial hit wasn't what it might have been. While the warranty work didn't cost me any money, it was in various shops for weeks on end and even though I had loaner/rental cars for that time it was still a major pain. When the problems returned yet again I reached the breaking point and dumped it, which I think is a pretty normal sort of reaction. I would rather have a car with no problems and a moderate warranty than one with a long warranty that is constantly being needed.

    2011 Buick Regal Turbo, 1968 Oldsmobile Cutlass S Holiday Coupe

  • cskicski West Springfield, VAPosts: 1,249
    You are absolutely right. I would rather have both reliability and long warranty. That is why this forum is here. To let folks that are viewing this material know what is safe to buy and what isn't. On this purchase I did everything right. Research, research, and more research is how to get a reliable car. With the Internet at our fingers anyone with a little sense can filter out what is a good bet and what isn't.

    After looking at the solid reliability of the Hyundai/Kia 2.4 liter cars with the 6 speed automatic and reviewing a lot of boards like Optima forums I bought one. I thought it was a good bet that it would hold up well, and look good doing so, and so far it has. No problems after two years and 23,700 miles is a good thing. Now I expect another three years as well!

    I can no longer afford to "risk it" by buying american branded cars. I tried to go Ford and Ford let me down, and it has been my experience that there is always some gremlin on every American car I owned that breaks over and over again, just like your experience with the Buick. Also, I stayed away from high performance models with turbos, more expensive suspensions, tires, etc. They cost more to own, insure, and to maintain in the long run. (no SHO type performance packages).

    In the the future maybe I can have my Porsche 911 or Corvette, but now I have to run lean and mean and get these kids into college. Priorities!
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,688
    I bought one of the very first 2006 Fusions off the truck back in 2005. Loaded SEL V6. In 7 years it had one repair - I replaced the interior door handle for $60 in ten minutes. Never saw the dealer. Still had the original brakes. Only replaced the tires and battery. No squeaks or rattles. Never failed to start even when the battery was going bad.
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 9,668
    Been listening to a Jazz station for a while, the upbeat and smooth songs just seems to match the mood the car puts me in when I'm driving it.
    My old Explorer needs loud music to drown out the wind noise on the highway.
    The first thing I did when I brought our Mustang GT convertible home was to put the antenna in the trunk. It's pretty much spent 22 years in there. The engine and exhaust make all the music I need. :shades:
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 9,668
    One of the reasons I went back to a Fusion was the 2007 I had for about 39 months. Got free oil changes and had it serviced every 5k, so I just paid for tire rotations. I did put in a new air filter in every spring and change the windshield wipers every fall. Total out of my pocket was around $250.
    Never had to bring it in for anything else.
    It was built in December 2006 and I brought it new with about 50 miles on it in March 2008.
  • vservser Posts: 48
    Curious. What shoukd I look for when evaluating the extent of my trade in. I've been told a price on a new car. Then they said they'll be aggressive on my trade in. Anything I should look for in general? For example, if I want an sx turbo for 24 including my trade, should I care how they get there?
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 9,668
    Try here. There is a form at the bottom of the page for providing the recommended info.
    Trade in forum
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,688
    Just remember that in the end you're only getting the wholesale value of the vehicle. The dealer can buy the same vehicle at auction tomorrow so they're not giving you much more than that. And wholesale can vary a lot from county to county depending on the local market. If you can get a quote from car max that's a good reference. And always negotiate the price of the new vehicle first without the trade in so they don't play games with the 2 prices.
  • cskicski West Springfield, VAPosts: 1,249
    edited November 2013
    Oh yeah, I love my Optima free oil changes too. I also couldn't believe the amount of debris in my cabin filter after only 18 mos.

    The dealer wanted $60 to put a new one in. I bought one at Advance for $9 and put it in myself. I hope people know that the cabin filter is behind the glove box and is owner serviceable.

    At the same time (August) I installed the Bosch blade style windshield wipers and treated the windows with Rain-X. Awesome.

    I also put in a K&N drop in engine filter, so I don't have to deal with that until about 50 k.
    In other words on this car everything has just fallen into place in a good way. Feeling very blessed.
  • vservser Posts: 48
    That's my point. If I want a car for 27 and I'd like 3-4k aggressively for my trade, why should I care if the give me the new car for 28 and give me 5k for the trade.
  • m6userm6user Posts: 2,991
    You shouldn't care. The only important thing is how much you write the check for or agree to finance, whichever is the case. I've seen people get all upset because the dealer adds a doc fee or something. The only thing to worry about is the final price. It doesn't matter how the dealer wants to juggle the numbers to get to your price.
  • wayne21wayne21 Posts: 227
    edited November 2013
    cski - on ur K&N air filter I'd suggest you observe for any difference in mileage if mileage is an issue to you and that you monitor your air flow sensor. I have given many K&Ns as Christmas presents and have used them for a long time myself. Earlier on this site, someone pointed out the issue of air flow sensor problems when using K&N and I'd never heard of that. I googled it and saw there were a lot of complaints. In my current car, I put a K&N in the day I bought it and I've cleaned it every year. After being informed of the air flow sensor issue, I removed the K&N. I pulled my system apart the next day only to find my air flow sensor pretty saturated (I didn't oversaturate the filter when I cleaned it). I don't check my mileage on the car, but I do have the computer display miles to empty. IDK how many tanks I've gone through since changing from the K&N to a regular filter, but I immediately noticed an additional 13 miles to empty on every refueling (about 1 mpg increase with a conventional filter) and it continues to be the same. Not interested in scaring you, but think it should at least be something you keep in the back of your mind.
  • cskicski West Springfield, VAPosts: 1,249
    Hey thanks man. I will check it out. I like the way it makes the motor sound, but other than that no one is going to really feel a two horsepower increase so if it damages the MASF I will check it at least.

    I wish I could not look at the MPG, as it really just serves to piss me off. 24 mpg my A**.
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,688
    You don't care as long as you know the separate prices you want. Dealers like to play games like giving you an extra $1K on the trade but charging MSRP on the new one. If you get the best possible price on the new one without the trade then they can't play games with the trade in price unless you want them to for financing purposes.
  • cskicski West Springfield, VAPosts: 1,249
    Not having to play trade in games with the dealer is exactly why I keep my cars as long as possible, and then sell them outright. Selling a well maintained Asian car is very easy, and most people can come up with 2 to 5 thousand to buy a used car from a private owner. I then take that cash and put it down on the new car. This way, no games. I get maximum value out of my cars before they need expensive repairs.

    It is a different story when you try to sell a $15,000 car outright to a private owner and is usually much easier to just trade it. Most folks who have 15 grand lying around can afford a new car! Those who can't have to get a bank loan, while the owner waits around and worries about the deal falling through, and still having to make payments in the meantime. (It is a pain in the butt).
  • ahightowerahightower TXPosts: 477
    edited November 2013
    As m6user said, it doesn't matter as long as you keep your eye on the amount financed (or size of check written if a cash buyer).

    If financing, they will want to talk in terms of monthly payments, not in terms of actual prices. What if you have to trade in sooner than expected, or want to pay it off faster?

    I ended up with a higher price on my Accord because after negotiating the price of the car (internet quote) and the price of the trade (Carmax quote) and even knowing my interest rate (credit union prequalification), they made a very strong offer on an extended warranty. Come to find out, they "subsidized" the interest rate even lower (from 1.9% Honda advertised special to 1.05%). I didn't know this was possible. I knew dealers did not have to give you the best rate you qualified for, but I didn't think Honda could go lower than the advertised special rate. So at the end of the day, they financed a higher amount at a lower rate, and I ended up paying full price for the warranty.

    It doesn't bother me because that's an incredibly low rate, why would I pay it off early (even the 1.9% was much better than what my credit union was offering)? Also, the warranty can be cancelled and unearned premium returned if I so choose.

    I only feel slightly annoyed with myself because I did not have complete info. He started by telling me my payment based on all the parameters I knew. Then he offered the warranty in terms of extra cost per month. I declined. Then he lowered it, I declined again. Then he lowered it once more, and I accepted ($20 a month for 100K bumper to bumper... why not? It addressed my only reservation about buying in the first model year of the new Accord, instead of the tried-and-true and long warrantied Optima). But I thought he had been lowering the price of the warranty when in fact he had been lowering the interest rate.

    Again, if you're not paying off or trading in early, the total cost to you is the same. But I prefer to have full knowledge of what's going on in the negotiation.
  • jayriderjayrider Posts: 3,287
    Hopefully, you got the Honda extended warranty and not an after market one.
  • cskicski West Springfield, VAPosts: 1,249
    When buying a new car the dealer always sells a manufacturer owned extended warranty policy. The off brand policies are usually sold on independent used car dealerships, but your point is valid. Most aftermarket policies exclude a lot of items that are likely to break, leaving the owner a piece of paper and a higher payment.
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,688
    A lot of new car dealers sell aftermarket warranties because they can usually make more money on them.
  • jayriderjayrider Posts: 3,287
    When I bought my Buick, the only extended warranty they offered was after market. They said the GM policy was too expensive. With 4 years of factory warranty, I wasn't buying anything anyway.
  • cskicski West Springfield, VAPosts: 1,249
    Well, I guess I could put it this way, since I used to be a buyer for GMAC:


    I don't recommend any warranty other than a manufacturer-backed one. You would be better off saving $50 a month for auto repairs in a bank account.
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,688
    Totally agree - never buy a 3rd party warranty. But the fact is they are offered by a lot of dealers on new vehicles.
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