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Midsize Sedans 2.0



  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,426
    Why change the oil so soon? A lot of factory fills have oil with high moly content to help with break in. Usually better to keep it in for normal change interval. Not the 50's anymore.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I remember my Honda dealer specifically telling me to go the full length of the oil-change recommendation before changing it the first time. I think I took it to 5,000 miles or something like that.

    My Sonata, well, it wasn't new when I bought it!

    2009 Sonata GLS V6
    103,000 miles
  • suydamsuydam Posts: 924
    Honda Accord oil change interval is 7500 miles. There is an oil life indicator too.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    When I owned my '06 Accord there was not a specified interval, just the OLM (Oil Life Monitor). When the monitor reached 15%, the reminder came on, and that's when I tended to go ahead and service the car. Have they added oil change intervals to supplant/supercede the OLM? I routinely went 7500-8000 miles before hitting the 15% notification.

    I do miss that in my current car; the Sonata 3.3L doesn't have such a monitor, so I just get it serviced every 5000-6000 miles, and I do a lot of highway (90 of my 105 mile daily commute is interstate, the rest is four-lane). That was part of my reason for going with the V-6; it still had ratings of 19/29; best-in-class for a V6 at the time. I'm averaging about 30mpg.

  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,426
    They still have the same system in the Accord. It gives oil life based on driving conditions. My '07 usually gets changed every 9k miles or so. I go right down to 5% since I use 100% synthetic oil. 161k miles and no problems - ready for another 161k. Have not changed the '13 yet - it reads 80% at 2,100 miles.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    Enjoyed this post! Especially the last line :chuckle:
    But hey, don't worry about it, you could have your local dealer order some OEM factory oil and start over..And look on the bright gotta 50/50 chance then of getting it right!! lol
  • benjaminhbenjaminh Posts: 1,680
    Yes, I really appreciate this Honda feature too...
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    edited April 2013
    It is interesting how this break-in process has evolved over the years. All engines are run-in at the factory to a certain extent. This would help reduce ring pinch at end of stroke at RPM's far greater than the usual putt-around-town type. The wording for break-in leaves a lot to be desired from one owner's manual to another. The general (mfgrs) consensus is to drive gently for the first term be it 500 to 1000 miles or whatever, and to not work the engine in.. they all say to not tow a trailer. Yet many a small trailers with a small load of debris for the landfill could weigh far less than a car full of people, and never have I read yet with any brand to avoid full passenger capacity during break-in..Like I say, so much is left to interpretation. IMO, (which has been derived from a large and varied number of new engined equipment ranging from every type and size from chainsaws, bikes, cars to heavy trucks) generally speaking.. engines (once outta the factory and into the new owner's hands), should be brought up to temp progressively gentle from start up. Idling up to temp is not good. After a couple hundred miles of progressively higher and higher RPM's (once thoroughly warmed up of course), occasional full throttle applications can be beneficial from time to time. This is just an extension of what the engine saw on the run-in dyno before it left the factory. Modern day cylinder bores apparently don't have the same degree (depth) of hash-markings on the cylinder walls as in years past. But recently I read about..I think it was Honda's new Green Earth 4 cyl (or whatever they called it) cylinder wall hash marks and it seems that they (or at least the degree of what is left after break-in) still play quite a roll in engine performance/efficiency/longevity.

    While owner's manual suggestions for break-in are likely best followed to the letter, for reasons we must trust are current, for those in the know, their break-in procedure can certainly be expanded upon if they know why the break-in suggestion is worded the way it is (general public idiot-proofing basically) and interpret further, the message behind the wording. But since the vast majority of us are not in the know, best to follow what the manual says.

    My old habit was to do an early oil change also until a pretty smart engineer (3 actually) I knew at Caterpillar enlightened me and brought me up date. I saw many examples of engines that were run-in prior to sale on...for example large excavators..because it is harder to actually make them work hard in the first few days of use without compromising hydraulic cylinder seal break-in, so they dyno them extensively first. If you look at charts of various engine records that they kept track of, engines that were generally babied in first life, but started and stopped in cold cycles, did not pull as strong or as efficiently as engines that were brought up to temp at a good rate regularly and made to work.

    Anyway, I should have maybe put this post somewhere else, but decided to leave it here as there is a lot of passion on this forum it seems...owner's who seem a little more proud of their new mid-sized baby, than those on..say a Toyota Corolla forum, where there doesn't seem to be nearly as much passion involved and probably don't care as much how their new car gets broken it.
  • benjaminhbenjaminh Posts: 1,680
    Good stuff. Thanks+++
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    You're welcome, Ben..glad you found some that useful.
  • gregg_vwgregg_vw Posts: 2,415
    With late availability will be offered with an Ecoboost 1.5 liter 3 cylinder of 175 hp, designed to put Fusion back on top of the MPG wars. The 1.6 will be continued, but only with a manual transmission.
  • tundradweller1tundradweller1 Posts: 74
    edited April 2013
    Few manufacturers use anything but a lighter weight oil and that is from small engines to commercial vehicles. Yes metallurgy has changed and even more so is the manufacturing processes allowing tighter, more precise tolerances. (my field) Hence there is less friction from parts wearing at point of contact until "broken in". That being said there is still a great amount of particulate metal that is suspended in the oil after only the first few hundred miles of a vehicle engines life. I have rebuilt Motorcycle engines and run in new ones straining the oil with only a couple hundred miles on it through a coffee filter. The swarf I found in the oil is amazing, not mention what was caught in the oil filter.
    Break in procedures used to be strict and involved low RPM limits which most people interpreted to lugging the engine around for extended periods leading to un seated piston rings, lower compression (power output), potential damage to crankshaft bearings and possible oil blow by later in life. There are allot of opinions on how to break in a engine from engineering theory to engine builders that have made tear down comparisons. Most will agree that varying the RPM is a must, heat cycling then a couple full throttle bursts (not red line in every gear) will have a impact on engine longevity and power output. That being said I do not change my oil at 3000 mile intervals in spite of what Jiffy Lube suggests. ;)
  • The term is "cross hatching", this refers to marks left on the cylinder walls after the honing process. The piston rings wear these down somewhat in the break-in process. Not correcting just saying....
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    I don't mind anyone..even you ;) ..correcting me when I use the wrong term. I take no offense. I was having a brain freeze when I was trying to remember the term..and in the back of my mind I didn't really think it was right but mainly wanted to get my message across so I knew hash marks was at least gonna do that. I almost said hatch marks but that didn't seem right either at the time..

    You say this is your field...and that break-in oil is primarily simply a lighter viscosity. I assume to keep debris more suspended and assist in flushing out during a change?

    Years ago, (not sure how many..perhaps you probably can confirm) break-in oil used to have an abrasive. I am curious if modern day break-in oil differs in that regard, besides the lighter viscosity?

    If a cars normal oil requirement states 0W20, what would the break-in oil be, you think?
  • Not an oil guy, manufacturing processes, machining. The lighter weight oils are used more for small engines. Vehicles not so much. What's laughable is Mazda recommends 0-20 wt. oil in the U.S.A and 5-20 or 5-30 wt. in other countries. No doubt to comply with CAFE compliance to improve gas mileage. Though I can't imagine much improvement in MPG.
    I don't think there a single subject that has more fallacies than motor oil.
  • gregg_vwgregg_vw Posts: 2,415
    Oops...the 2014 Fusion 1.5 is a FOUR cylinder. Should have known the press reports were wrong about it being a 3 is Volvo that will have a 3 cylinder of about 1.5 liter displacement.
  • cskicski West Springfield, VAPosts: 1,179
    Dude....I was just replying to you on that press release. :D Yeah.... apparently there is a big tax break for buyers in China if the engine is 1.5 liters or less.
  • I assume this means that the new 1.5 turbo will replace the 2.5 non-turbo as the new base engine, but where is the new 2.5 turbo they're supposed to be working on for it as well? I don't see .1 making a huge difference to anyone, but a turbo 2.5 would sure make it scoot! The new Fusion doesn't really need any better mpg ratings, but it could sure use more hp!
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,426
    Maybe the Fusion does not need better mpg ratings, but it sure needs better actual mpg. As I pointed out in another thread, the most fuel efficient Fusion gets mpg almost as good as a V-6 Accord or Camry on Consumer Reports tests.
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