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Volkswagen Beetle Electrical & Lighting Problems



  • Thanks for the info but as I had said before they did tell me that it was the hazard light switch. And just a small note I didn't pay $85 to get "scaaaaarooooood". I had it checked while they were correcting the recall therefore, didn't pay $85.
  • As usual, the wife didn't listen while i was away. She let the battery on the bug go dead. We replaced the battery but upon installing it, the idle rev'd from 900 to 2000 continuously. Talked to VW. They said to turn key to on and back to lock position 10 times. Ok.....reving fixed but car falls on face and gives various fault codes. VW then says they need to set ECU back to factory settings. I asked if this is normal when u change a battery...they said yes.
    Question......does this sound right to you guys? Is there a short-cut or "trick of the trade" to do this at home? I will have to tow this thing 100miles if not. As always...any and all help is greatly appreciated.....
  • i took my husbands 97 jetta to get the turn signals, hazard lights, horn adn wipers fixed (NONE WORKED AT THIS POINT!!!)and they had to change the turning signal relay switch, about $100 and they were all fixed with that same part...could be it! not sure though......
  • guns2guns2 Posts: 3
    Ok Guys here we go....
    Have a 2000 beetle, this thing has been a nightmare. so far this is whats been going on over the past 3 weeks.

    Week 1 - A/C comp only getting 8 volts, so now A/c doesnt work.

    Week 2 - Drivers side power window quit working

    Week 3 - now the high temp light goes on and off - even when cold???...

    This car is driving me nuts, along with my wife harping at me all the time saying "when are you going to fix this". Problem is, I keep trying but cant get anywhere. The 8 volts on the Compressor I think might be a ground issue? The high temp light on/off might be a bad sensing device? and as far as the window not working-I havnt even got to looking at it. This car is starting to make my stomach hurt...

  • jriegerjrieger Posts: 8
    The air cond. has a module that will control the compressor. It's in the engine area, below the battery.

    The heat light is an easy one (I hope). Add some coolant to your coolant bottle. The contacts inside must be covered!

    Can't help with the window but hope other info helps.
  • I'm having a problem with my rear hatch icon staying on. Also, the same day that started, my car quit beeping when I woudl set the alarm. I know it must be a sensor problem but don't know where the rear hatch sensor is located or whether it is something I can repair. I'm out of warranty and I'd rather avoid the service department if at all possible. Can someone provide some insight? :)
  • guns2guns2 Posts: 3
    Thanks Jrieger
  • I have a 200 beetle. Here is what I have experienced without any warning:

    Electrical system components stopped working:
    Horn, Turn Signals, AC & Blower, Vent controls, Winshild wipers & Fluid controls, Head Lights.

    Here are the electrical systems still operating correctly:
    Radio, Brake Lights, Running Lights, Pwr Windows, Pwr locks, Pwr Moon roof, Pwr trunk, Pwr gas door release, Car starts and runs normal !
    Pleaee Note - The hazard flashers work, the momentary bright lights when you pull back on the turn singal works.

    I have verified all fuses next to the battery are OK, All fuses in the fuse box are OK, I have removed the covers to access the relay panel. I removed all relays and checked all relay coils with a VM and everything looks OK. There were no contacts welded.

    No sure where to go from here. Any suggestions.
  • I have a 2002 TDI New Beetle. The same thing happened to me. I was 80 Miles away from home at the time. I had also just put some fuel in the car and was half-way down the on ramp from the Midway service plaza in Bedford...headlights, turn signals a/c, vent blower not working. haven't tried the horn. Wouldn't have been such a problem except that it was midnight when this happened. The next morning I drove the car home. fortunately I didn't run into any police. My appointment at the dealer is tomorrow. I'll keep you posted on the problem/how expensive it is.
  • jeffc6jeffc6 Posts: 2
    Did you find out want was causing your electrical issues? I have exactly the same thing happening to my 1998 Beetle.

  • jeffc6jeffc6 Posts: 2
    Did you find out want was causing your electrical issues? I have exactly the same thing happening to my 1998 Beetle.

  • odudeodude Posts: 6
    I have owned my beetle turboS for a year and half, and there have been issues ranging from electronic issues to headlight problems and the lack of quality with many of the interior features.
    My right daytime running light is dimmer than the left headlight, and is noticable when the headlights are on at night. I will take it in to the dealer, since they replaced the headlight cover on the right side. However i wanted to ask if anyone had similar issues.
    Also, the remote lock button locks the passenger door but doesn't lock the driver side consistently. In fact, it didn't work for the past 8 months but just recently began working as did the locking mechanism once the car reached 10mph. Also, I used to be able to close the windows and the sunroof by turning my key in the door lock. This no longer works.
    I also noticed last week that lit icons appear when I engage/disengage the spoiler and when I unlock the back hatch. That stopped the next day, but I thought it was unusual that these light indicators appeared after a year and a half of not working. My spoiler that enganges at 45mph makes a loud, abrupt noise when it closes once I slow down below 45 mph. Do other beetle owners notice this loud problem too?
    Finally, though this is purely aesthetic, the interior parts of my beetle show wear and tear easily. I am very careful with my car's interior and keep it very clean, However, I noticed the black finish on the radio and especially the cup holders, have begun to rub off and bubble and peel (this occurred on the plastic surrounding the cup holders.) The interior door handles also show scratches and erosion of the black finish. I am seeing more of these problems on my dash and on the rubber and plastic components around the glove compartment. Any advice on these finish problems because I am not sure what to do but know it will only get worse!
  • I understand that the slider must be pulled up in order to release the assembly. However, the passenger side light refuses to pop out. I have tried everything in the instructions and it just doesn't work. As far as the Hanes isn't that useful.
    Do you have any suggestions?
  • Hello,
    I know what you are going through if you haven't seen the inside of the headlight system. If your headlight has popped out enough (it should when you move the lever)to get you finger tips under it, have someone pull and wiggle the assembly while you push from the rear. The assembly is accessable and open in the rear.
    I think the wiggle while pushing and pulling is the answer. Once you get it out, I advise you to lube all moving parts for future removal. After you see how it works, you will be an expert headlight mechanic.
  • I followed the instructions to replace the driver's side headlamp, found it really difficult to pull hard enough on the black plastic lever to release the headlight assembly, was careful to set the assembly on the two tracks before pushing it back in, and can not get the assembly to latch back into place. Any suggestions for this 2003 VW New Beetle Turbo? What kind of lubricant can be used on the gray plastic tracks on which the assembly slides?
  • Hello,
    I think this system was really a good setup when it was new and clean. However, the dirt and filth that get into the mechanism is the culprit.
    Try to remove as much as you can. I used a dry spray but I guess about any slick product will work. The secret to getting the unit back in is about the same as removal.
    While your pushing up? on the lever bump the front of the light with the palm of your hand rapidly. Your trying to vibrate the track system while pushing in on the light.
    Hope this helps!
  • I have same trouble with 98 Beetle. Have you had any luck finding the cause?
  • JReier was correct - it's the dirt. The seal around the headlamp is not tight, and allows a tornado of dirt to enter the internal tracks of its housing. The dirt does not blow away, and sticks to the mechanism of the locking ring, preventing the motion to unlock it. It was extremely difficult to remove the headlamp assembly, but once out, it is relatively easy to clean all three tracks inside the cavity, and possible but not easy to clean the locking ring so that is rotates freely. Once all is clean of dirt, mire, grit and gunk, and well lubricated with a compound that will not degrade the plastic, you have to line up all three protrusions from the headlight assembly with the corresponding tracks inside the cavity, push the assembly in until it rests on the tracks, remove the cover over the fuses, push down hard on the lever on the locking mechanism to align its internal opening with the locking pin on the headlight assembly, push this assembly into the car to engage the pin with the locking mechanism, then pull up HARD on the lever while pushing the headlight assembly in until you hear a click. Replace the fuse cover.
  • I have a 99 beetle that headlights, turn signal,heat/ac blower,wipers,parking brake light are not working. fuses and fuse block on top of battery are ok. I would like to repair myself if possible, please help. thanks Ricktick3
  • I was number 10 in this string of VW Beetle light issues back in April 2007. I have still not found out what the problem is and it is still ocurring. Recently I have had my red oil can light set off a loud siren which continues on a regular basis for hours - similar to the one that goes off briefly when you need gas only - louder and more obnoxious. It always occurs when my temperature light stays on instead of going off - which is always blue. I took it in and numerous times to Bill Jacobs VW dealer on Ogden in Naperville IL. I paid for a new signals around $400.00. Still not working - they kept it for over 2 weeks while I had a loaner. No luck! They can not replicate the issue. So the day I go to pick it up they told me that I need my water pump and oil pan replaced for 1,300. I told them I want a second opinion and the second opinion told me that it those parts did not need replaced. I was treated badly at Bill Jacobs and do not recommend anyone going to them for service. The service manager Mike Jozwiak treated me horrible because even though he had my car for two weeks, he did not know the what was going on and just kept defending this position that his mechanics said that the water pump and oil pan needed replacing. He finally offered to take off 300 to have them replaced and I refused.
    I would drive far to a VW Dealer who could fix my car! I love my 2001 Beetle and it only has 58,000 on it! I am suprised that the Beetles have so many problems with this and VW has done nothing to correct this issue! Help!
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