Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Dodge Dakota Stalling and Dying Problems

13567

Comments

  • Hey i am having the same problems..... I was wondering if maybe you came across the problem... Gsoybean@aol.com
  • I have a 99 5.2 and its doing the same thing.....im in the same boat your are and i was wondering if that relay had anything to do with it....?? Gsoybean@aol.com thanks!
  • I too have had a problem with stalling when the engine is cold. I have a 99' dakota with the 3.9 and a manual trans. This problem has existed for a while but it was more pronounced in the winter. I was reading these posts and since the truck need a new battery I picked up a new IAC valve at the auto part store while I was there. (cost about $30) I took the old valve out, cleaned the port that it was seated in with some carb cleaner since it was quite gummed up. I put the new valve in and my truck runs like a champ again. I hope that I never have to take that valve out again because I stripped one the screws when I was installing the new one. Good Luck.
  • '99 Dakota w/5.2 engine and auto trans. 110k miles. Problem started after hard acceleration and braking to stop. The torque converter or transmission did not disengage when I stopped and the engine died. Will run with jerky shifts after I shift into gear under power but still locks up and kills engine after highway run. No Codes present. Replaced TPS and IAC motor. Rear Band has a lot of play in the adjustment. No pieces in oil pan, normal Iron sludge stuck to magnet.

    Researched threads for solutions:
    1.Clogged filter/lines
    2. Rear band misadjusted
    3. Broken Clutch spring (no evidence in pan or filter)
    4. bad front clutch (how do I check)
    5. stuck servo (how do I check?)
    6. valve body problem
    7. broken Planetary Gearset (no evidence in Pan)
    8. locked torque convertor clutch

    Planning on making band adjustments, replacing filter and running to check. Or should I just go ahead and disassemble the thing?

    Could this be a band adjustment issue or do I have a failed (locked)torque convertor? Since there's no codes I'm thinking the electronics are o.k. I heard valve body check balls shrink and fail?

    Help
  • Recently I had to replace a throw out bearing in my dodge dakota 4x4 3.9. I forgot to remove the crank position sensor and broke it off while removing or installing bell housing, found out when truck would not start. Replaced it and started fine, hesitated a second and ran fine till the next day, had too pull over and nurse the gas do too very rough idle and power lose, got it going and drove 30 miles and it hesitated a split second. Next day drove 2 miles started running rough jerking, pulled over rough idle when started. left it over night and it started right up and drove 2 miles did the same thing. Replaced distributor cap and rotor, nothing. Pulled IAC, very dirty, started truck idled great, shut it off for 10 minutes, tried to start it again, woul not stay running. Replaced IAC, same roughness. Changed crank position sensor know starts but runs rough like all cylindes not firing. Help I'm losing it...LOL
  • I just joined and I know your post was months ago. I have had the same problem and scanned my computer and found that I had no crank position signal. I assumed it would be a crank position sensor but found that even though the dealer and the parts store said I had one, I found that a 1990 dodge 3.9L does not. The loss of signal was coming from the coil pick up located inside the distributor. I hope this helps.
  • I found out that the new crank position sensor was bad(1st one) got another and in fired right up, Thanks for the reply
  • Also it helps too change out the foul plugs from repeated engine starts during trouble shoooting..LOL
  • Hey guys a have a 95 Dak with a 3.9. It will run for about 45 minutes and die. When it dies it wont start for a few hours. It has a new computer, new crank sensor, new coil and is gettin fuel. When i had it diagnosed it said it was the crank sensor. So i put another new on in it and it still does it...........Ohh yeah i all the wires runnin up to the relay box are good. I done checked all those too. I need help guys.
  • jfred2jfred2 Posts: 1
    Cold start is OK, Idle or driving. Once the engine temp starts to come up, the
    idle gets rough and will stall when throttle opens. When I can come off idle
    in neutral, I can hold a fast but very erratic RPM. There are no trouble codes,
    and fuel presure is good. exhaust cat. is not resticted, Ig. distributor is tight,
    Complete tune-up, fuel filter, crank sensor, tps, charge air sensor, coolant temp
    sensor and distributor switch plate have been replaced. Prior to this problem,
    the truck was running great at 150,000 miles. It just acted up, now I don't know
    my next act. ( 1992 5.2 4wd auto )
    jfred2
  • my 2001 dakota stall when it run for 30 minutes can u help
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Vacuum leak, from a cracked vacuum hose maybe?
  • My 2005 Dodge Dakota (Quad Cab 2wd) check engine light came on this past Monday evening. Called my dad & he wanted to get "the codes". However, he could not get a code. I called made an appointment with my mechanic for Saturday-my truck seemed to be running fine! On Friday, I was sitting idle for appx 4 minutes & I began to accelerate and the truck wanted to die. I started home and within a mile my truck died. I tried to start it & moved a few feet & stalled. I did this many times to get off the main road. I called AAA & truck towed to local dealer :( Tow truck driver drove it off the ramp & service manager drove it in the shop. After diagnostic - EGR valve & Cam sensor (?) was the verdict. I have an extended warranty & I asked if it was covered, his answer was "EGR valve is, There are some maintenance issues" I asked "like what?" (Because I keep up with my maintenance in my truck.) He said "Ya know, spark plugs, tune ups". OK... well is the Cam sensor covered & he said that is what they are trying to figure out because of the maintenance issues. WHAT??? I dont have more than 55k miles. I am sure if there were those type of issues my mechanic would tell me. I keep up on the oil changes, etc! What does he mean by the 2nd part... what would the maintenance have to do with the failure of that Cam sensor?
    Thanks
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    what would the maintenance have to do with the failure of that Cam sensor?

    Not a dang thing!
  • I didnt think so... well I will hear his explanation tomorrow! sigh... Thank you for your reply!
  • What did this turn out to be, or did you ever get a fix, cause my truck does the same thing exactly.
  • EGR valve & Cam sensor was the problem... new spark plugs too! UGH! Not covered by warranty. including an oil change $790 from the dealership...
    Good luck to you!!!!
  • e_grante_grant Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a 92 Dakota. Took it in for a complete tune up and system check. Now when I start the truck,it revs to 2800 rpm and stays there until I either shift to another gear or stomp the accelerator a couple times. Once on the road, it is fine until I come to a stop. That is when the engine tries to stall. Im kinda confused because it seems to be one problem with 2 different symptoms.
  • redexpressredexpress Posts: 1
    edited April 2010
    1990 Dakota 3.9l. Idles rough gave it plugs wires cap rotor replaced the computer and O2 sensor fuel pressure reg and the M.A.P. sensor.When idling rough it's dumping way to much fuel insted of a light mist it's flowing like it's wide open.Cat. after about 10 min. starts glowing red from excive fuel the cats not clogged.Any ideas out there.
  • elwellelwell Posts: 6
    My Dakota has recently started to dye out at idle and at highway speeds. While traveling at highway speeds it will re start while still in drive. At slower speeds it needs to be put into neutral and cranked over and generally starts within seconds. Sometimes acts right for miles, sometimes dies out many times. Runs smooth not rough. Ignition dropping out? Thats what I think. 1990, 3.9 V-6, auto, Throttle body, 167,000k. Wondering if anyone else has had this problem and is it common to this model/year. Any suggestions or experience that you could share? No codes after "key dancing" Just 55 meaning check is over. Thanks...Elwell
  • cactus93cactus93 Posts: 10
    Dusty,
    Hi, I need your advice on this please.

    I Have a 2000 Dakota Quad Cab, 4.7L 4X4.

    In my earlier post the advice I was given by the dealer and one transmission shop was that my torque converter was slipping during interlock. The problem was more noticeable after my tires got balanced. When truck in neutral or at any speed smooth, no tire balance problems. Now in an attempt to get a third opinion, one shop advised that I have a clogged fuel injector. They claimed computer showed, pass side bank was running a little rich. He concluded the torque converter was not bad after getting the truck to breakdown or sputter without the interlock engaged at any speed as long as motor rpms were below 2500. Now I can feel it too. He advised STP fuel injector cleaner at a high concentrate and blow it out on the freeway. After doing just that with no change in sputter (actually after a few passes on the freeway with a very heavy foot it sputtered worse). After that he felt a clogged injector or failing injector was the problem. I bought two injectors and he put them in, no change, he moved them and still no change.
    **Please note that during all this I have no engine code.
    He also replaced the TPS, no fix. Another mechanic felt that one of the coils might be breaking down. I bought one and put it in and test drove it in all 8 positions, no fix.

    To date, the symptoms and attempted fixes have been as follows:
    First felt vibration at 45 mph
    Started feeling it more, went to dealer.
    Drove a week and began to feel more noticeably.
    After fuel injector cleaner, no fix, maybe worse.
    The problem feels like a very week spark or misfire below 2500 rpms, also slight sputter or hesitation during hard acceleration.

    First Diagnostic:
    Transmission fluids slightly dirty, had them change it.
    Old worn plugs, changed myself with exact replacements and proper gap settings (0.40).
    Tires out of balance, Balanced them.
    Flash Updates for ECM and TCM, updated them.
    Went home $450 lighter, still not fixed.

    Second Diagnostic:
    Torque Converter slipping during interlock. Both stated by dealer and first tranny shop.
    or possible bad TCM (no codes)

    Third Diagnostic:
    Got engine to "misfire or sputter" without interlock engaged, not torque converter.
    Clogged injector, ran truck hard with double dose of STP, no fix.
    Bought 2 injectors and moved them around, no fix.

    Fourth Diagnostic:
    Possible bad or faulty coil, bought one and played ring around the motor, no fix.

    Please help!!
    Currently I'm out over $600 and fells worst than when I started.
    No OBD codes.

    Thanks for your help,
    Jason
  • pammeepammee Posts: 1
    Maybe changing the FUEL FILTER will help.
  • dom11dom11 Posts: 1
    hi my 92 dodge was dying randomly dying and the fuel gauge was stuck on full i replaced the pump and it worked great for 20 min then the gauge got stuck on full again but has stopped dying i have heard that it could be the ground wire or relay so how do find the ground and fix it
  • dockivdockiv Posts: 1
    My v6 Dakota has a very pronounced engine miss/jerk when the cruise control is on.I just had new plugs and wires installed. Any ideas? Also stalls in reverse when A/C is on??
  • bcbaxterbcbaxter Posts: 5
    Hey I am having the exact problem and my mechanic has now cleaned my throttle body and I have changed the MAP and TPS sensors with no fix.... now my mech is running tests on the torque converter as well as the IAC.... honestly i am really hoping it is the IAC because i bought this 2000 dakota quad cab 2wd 4.7 with 98k two months ago and so far the a/c compressor locked up and then this whole situation with the stalling. I am now debating on reselling the truck as soon as its fixed and trying again with another truck.
  • elwellelwell Posts: 6
    Athough my Dakota is a 1990, it's 3.9 with auto was dying while running and then starting again after a min. If traveling fast enough, it would dye and jerk and restart itself while still in drive. Finally changed the distributor and it's module and that did the trick. Modules come premounted in the distributor. $60! Autozone.
  • rtjmortjmo Posts: 2
    edited July 2010
    Hello,

    I have 98 Dodge Dakota 4 X 4. For the last 12-18 months I have had problems with the motor cutting off as I am driving. I have had new plug wires, new PCM, new Cat convertor. Had numerous mechanics look at it, including dealership who replaced the PCM for $700.00. Still same problem. It cuts off at different intervals, hot cold, freshly started or after running for a while. Besides being irritating, it is very dangerous. Had a couple of close calls because of this. If can't find an answer here, will junk it.

    Hope someone can help.

    Thanks in advance,
  • elwellelwell Posts: 6
    My 1990 Dakota did exactly the same thing as you describe. Very hard to troubleshoot. In the end it was the distributor and or module within. $60 at Autozone. Never had another problem.
  • bcbaxterbcbaxter Posts: 5
    have your mechanic check to see if the torque converter is stuck on the tranny that could make it die when you come to a stop kinda feels as if you are being pushed slightly from behind. or get him to check the IAC motor sometime they get stuck. My mechanic is checking them right now on mine will post when i get an answer. And when i get mine fixed im selling it....
  • well my mechanic didn't fix anything and i have no clue what to do..... i hate this truck.
Sign In or Register to comment.