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Dodge Dakota Stalling and Dying Problems

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  • cactus93cactus93 Posts: 10
    Dusty,
    Hi, I need your advice on this please.

    I Have a 2000 Dakota Quad Cab, 4.7L 4X4.

    In my earlier post the advice I was given by the dealer and one transmission shop was that my torque converter was slipping during interlock. The problem was more noticeable after my tires got balanced. When truck in neutral or at any speed smooth, no tire balance problems. Now in an attempt to get a third opinion, one shop advised that I have a clogged fuel injector. They claimed computer showed, pass side bank was running a little rich. He concluded the torque converter was not bad after getting the truck to breakdown or sputter without the interlock engaged at any speed as long as motor rpms were below 2500. Now I can feel it too. He advised STP fuel injector cleaner at a high concentrate and blow it out on the freeway. After doing just that with no change in sputter (actually after a few passes on the freeway with a very heavy foot it sputtered worse). After that he felt a clogged injector or failing injector was the problem. I bought two injectors and he put them in, no change, he moved them and still no change.
    **Please note that during all this I have no engine code.
    He also replaced the TPS, no fix. Another mechanic felt that one of the coils might be breaking down. I bought one and put it in and test drove it in all 8 positions, no fix.

    To date, the symptoms and attempted fixes have been as follows:
    First felt vibration at 45 mph
    Started feeling it more, went to dealer.
    Drove a week and began to feel more noticeably.
    After fuel injector cleaner, no fix, maybe worse.
    The problem feels like a very week spark or misfire below 2500 rpms, also slight sputter or hesitation during hard acceleration.

    First Diagnostic:
    Transmission fluids slightly dirty, had them change it.
    Old worn plugs, changed myself with exact replacements and proper gap settings (0.40).
    Tires out of balance, Balanced them.
    Flash Updates for ECM and TCM, updated them.
    Went home $450 lighter, still not fixed.

    Second Diagnostic:
    Torque Converter slipping during interlock. Both stated by dealer and first tranny shop.
    or possible bad TCM (no codes)

    Third Diagnostic:
    Got engine to "misfire or sputter" without interlock engaged, not torque converter.
    Clogged injector, ran truck hard with double dose of STP, no fix.
    Bought 2 injectors and moved them around, no fix.

    Fourth Diagnostic:
    Possible bad or faulty coil, bought one and played ring around the motor, no fix.

    Please help!!
    Currently I'm out over $600 and fells worst than when I started.
    No OBD codes.

    Thanks for your help,
    Jason
  • pammeepammee Posts: 1
    Maybe changing the FUEL FILTER will help.
  • dom11dom11 Posts: 1
    hi my 92 dodge was dying randomly dying and the fuel gauge was stuck on full i replaced the pump and it worked great for 20 min then the gauge got stuck on full again but has stopped dying i have heard that it could be the ground wire or relay so how do find the ground and fix it
  • dockivdockiv Posts: 1
    My v6 Dakota has a very pronounced engine miss/jerk when the cruise control is on.I just had new plugs and wires installed. Any ideas? Also stalls in reverse when A/C is on??
  • bcbaxterbcbaxter Posts: 5
    Hey I am having the exact problem and my mechanic has now cleaned my throttle body and I have changed the MAP and TPS sensors with no fix.... now my mech is running tests on the torque converter as well as the IAC.... honestly i am really hoping it is the IAC because i bought this 2000 dakota quad cab 2wd 4.7 with 98k two months ago and so far the a/c compressor locked up and then this whole situation with the stalling. I am now debating on reselling the truck as soon as its fixed and trying again with another truck.
  • elwellelwell Posts: 6
    Athough my Dakota is a 1990, it's 3.9 with auto was dying while running and then starting again after a min. If traveling fast enough, it would dye and jerk and restart itself while still in drive. Finally changed the distributor and it's module and that did the trick. Modules come premounted in the distributor. $60! Autozone.
  • rtjmortjmo Posts: 2
    edited July 2010
    Hello,

    I have 98 Dodge Dakota 4 X 4. For the last 12-18 months I have had problems with the motor cutting off as I am driving. I have had new plug wires, new PCM, new Cat convertor. Had numerous mechanics look at it, including dealership who replaced the PCM for $700.00. Still same problem. It cuts off at different intervals, hot cold, freshly started or after running for a while. Besides being irritating, it is very dangerous. Had a couple of close calls because of this. If can't find an answer here, will junk it.

    Hope someone can help.

    Thanks in advance,
  • elwellelwell Posts: 6
    My 1990 Dakota did exactly the same thing as you describe. Very hard to troubleshoot. In the end it was the distributor and or module within. $60 at Autozone. Never had another problem.
  • bcbaxterbcbaxter Posts: 5
    have your mechanic check to see if the torque converter is stuck on the tranny that could make it die when you come to a stop kinda feels as if you are being pushed slightly from behind. or get him to check the IAC motor sometime they get stuck. My mechanic is checking them right now on mine will post when i get an answer. And when i get mine fixed im selling it....
  • well my mechanic didn't fix anything and i have no clue what to do..... i hate this truck.
  • elwellelwell Posts: 6
    I'll post this again. I was very glad when my Daktoa nightmare ended and it was not an easy troubleshoot. BUT. Mine is a 1990 3.9 V6 with auto...180000mi. Yea it started dying out and became more and more frequent. It would start back up after a few mins. Many dangerous stalls in traffic. Turned out to be the distributor and module within. $60 at autozone. Running great ever since!
  • rtjmortjmo Posts: 2
    Hi,

    I am with you on this one. Never own another Chrysler product again. So wish I had traded when they had the cash for clunkers deal. Now guess I will sell it to the junk yard. Sorry about yours, I certainly know how frustrating it is!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • So anybody have any answer to my situation.... a 90 v6 isn't the same type engine.
  • Hey any news on how to fix the problem
  • Howdy everybuddy!!

    I have a dodge dakota with a world of hurt. Let me tell ya'll a story...

    I've just had (2 weeks ago) a "quieter" muffler put on my 'Kota so as not to wake up my neighbors any more. I was also told that my rear end was going out and that I should use it until it just starts acting plain silly. Also, I told the mechanic that I was having surging issues in the morning pulling out of the driveway. He told me it was the IAC solenoid (motor) (located behind and on the throttle body by the distributor cap). I have somewhat above average mechanic skills (I have owned a Dakota for 10 years, I think that would make anybody and above average mechanic, ya'll agree? :P ) and I bought one at the local parts place and installed it after giving the throttle body a complete cleaning. (Used only throttle body cleaner and did not spray the MAP sensor, TPS sensor, or the IAC solenoid to clean them).

    The surging kind of went away but was not perfect. But, what the hey, it's running and I got to get to work to pay the bills.

    Welp, work sent me out to Jasper last Tuesday (from Houston) and I really didn't want to go, but they pay drive time, so I went anyways. BIG MISTAKE.

    This is where the story gets good...

    So I'm driving up whatever road from I 59 to Jasper and my truck starts making a rusty bits and pieces noise (kind of like those old little kid marble pop up vacuum cleaners) under my rear passenger seat and it's hesitating and bogging down really bad. So much so that at it times it stalls and I have to pull over to the shoulder and let it rest a minute or two before it reluctantly starts up. I have an almost year old alternator from Azone installed so I'm starting to think a bad fuel pump (3 years old) or plugged up cat or muffler. But no back fires as of yet.

    I make it to my job, finish it and work now has me going to Dallas. I take my truck to O'Reily's for a check engine code (they don't scan vehicles BTW, they said go to Autozone) I was going to warranty out my plugs, caps, and rotors when the lady behind the counter had asked if I had even checked the wires for continuity. I said no, and went back out to my truck, got my volt/ohm meter and started playing with the plug wires. Plug wires will not give continuity, but they will give resisitance and as all wires are various lengths, not one will be the same as the other. So, the only thing I could check was for breaks in the wire. I stuck the red lead in one end of one plug wire and stuck the black lead in the other end of the same plug wire. I started making waves and circles and various other shapes and angles one could make with a plug wire. None of them, including the coil wire brought the resistance up to an open circuit. I went back in, bought another can of throttle body cleaner (as I had bought one 2 days prior to do the throttle body cleaning as mentioned above) and emptied the entire can into the intake manifold (airhat off of course and straight down both barrels with the truck manually revved by hand (looking from front, left side accelerator cable) naturally I didn't stand in front of the truck while doing this ;) ) That lasted for awhile (30 minutes of driving) but it started acting up like before.

    Note: I have had an occasional misfire in cylinder 3 and 4 and it's brought up a trouble code. But it was very infrequent and once I let the truck rest it never happened again for like another month. Just some extra information in case this story might be similar to yours. Also, pulling out of my work's warehouse, I would on rare occasions, get that bogged down engine symptom.

    Now I'm driving to Dallas and it's really acting up. I'm getting more frequent missing and bogging down and it's trying to stall on me. I can step on the gas pedal with little change to what's going on. It eventually gets itself out of what it was doing or it stalls. Which by now, I've found out I can put the thing in neutral and start it all the while I'm coasting down the freeway with no steering assistance from the steering pump. I pull into the Azone along the highway and they pull up the codes and they read "primary, secondary coil failure; random misfire; misfires in 2,3,4,6". Azone guy bets bottom dollar the coil is bad and this is the problem. I can't help but agree.

    So I buy the coil, run over to the Wal-mart next door, park the truck under a lamp (it's about 8 p.m. now) and run inside to get myself some tasty beverages and snacks for the chore ahead. I also buy one of those fits all 3/8 socket wrench and socket things, has the alligator on the top of the package.

    NOTE: I have to say that the wrench actually worked. I used it on the belt tensioner to take the belt off and it didn't mess up the socket. I used it all over and as far as I can say, the thing works. It wouldn't work on say some of the smaller nuts from like a 9 or 8 mm on down. But I think they make a smaller one with smaller bits for those jobs. The only thing that would be a con on such a product is where the diameter over all or length to clearance would be a factor. This one is about an inch total wide and about a deep socket depth long.

    After about an hour and a half of fighting rusted out bolts on the coil and coil bracket, I finally get it all back together only to realize I bought the wrong coil. I previously installed a MSD ignition system but for the longest time I'd been getting crappy gas mileage ( I personally think there was a problem way back then too though (4 years ago)) so I took it off but put an older model Dakota coil and coil harness (because you have to cut the one off when you put in the MSD ignition) on because that's just what the junk yard had available. I went back over to the Azone and luckily they were still open. Bought the right coil, replaced it and low and behold (after resetting the computer .. negative battery cable off, iginition turned on for 30 seconds, negative battery cable on) everything was running great. Still had a little miss once and again, but everything was A okay.

    I make it into Dallas and the hotel and I think to myself. I want some eggrolls and tacos from Jack in the Crack before I retire. I drove off to the Box only to have my truck stall in the Drive thru Lane. G***********D F***********CKING D**********MN ****************T!! I have to wave people behind me to get out of the way as my truck rolls back out of the drive thru and into a parking space. I've got people looking and laughing as I try to start my truck. No such luck. I'm thinking great. If I just would have been happy with my cookie and water waiting for me back at the hotel, I wouldn't have to be here. After about 3 or 4 more tries it starts and then the loudest backfire I've heard yet (there's still more story) launches out the [non-permissible content removed] end of my truck only to my amusement as I see the people in the drive thru sh*tting themselves. I wasn't in
  • I wasn't in a good area of town btw. I think they call the area.. Dallas if I'm not mistaken..HA I went back to the hotel and ate my stale cookie. Yum. I looked up online what could be the problem and there were many posts about the cam shaft sensor causing problems like the ones I was experiencing.

    The next day my fuel gauge just stops working yet other electrical devices are working. Weird. My truck stalls. I start it back up and now everything is okay again. I first goto Azone for a cam shaft sensor (the plastic ring that sits under the rotor and is held in place by the distributor cap) and they don't have an end that matches what I got in my truck. Great, it's off to the dealership. After a 300% mark up on a 30 dollar part and about 20 minutes of work. I rush out of the parking lot only to find that this was still not the cause of my problems. I goto my next job and finish it. Now work wants me to drive up to McKinney. Great. (I only have clothes for one day. My balls are pretty rank by now. Just a little FYI)

    I make it up there and now it's too late to work because the job is closing for the day. I run by the autozone up there and they said my alternator was putting out no output. What? I removed the positive battery cable and my truck is still running. (apparently, with the new OBD II, that no longer is a good indicator that your alternator is good/bad). He said I need to clean all my battery terminals, check the connection on my alternator (the B+). Which I did to no avail. I drove down to O'Reillys and told them to check the alternator which they did and said it was putting out 76 amps ( I bought the more amperage alternator when I changed it out the last time) His thoughts on the matter was that my transmission was not dropping down and that if it continued it might just very well be the problem. I still don't know why one parts store had different readings than the other, unless of course Azone's alt checker was bad. That's another thing too people. People in the know, may sometimes not be in the know, know what I mean?

    The next day I drive to the new job and my truck doesn't want to start ever. It's just a whole day of suck for me. At the end of the day we leave, and my coworker is following me back to the hotel. The truck started missing and backfiring so bad that he said he could see the sparks shoot out of the tail pipes. It eventually got bad along the way he said sh*t was flying out the rear end and the tone of my exhaust got a little more manly. I make it to the turn lane for the hotel and it dies. I've got my coworker behind me and my boss behind him. I can't get it to start. It just keeps turning over and then... BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOM.. ba BOOOOOOOOOMM POOOOOOOOOOOOOOWWWWWWWWW It was the like the 4th of July was happening in the cab of my truck. It was awesome. It made both of those guys damn near piss themselves. I wish I had it for Youtube.
    I make it into the parking lot and we all get out and look under the truck. The muffler had been blown in half. Now I'm thinking the cat did get plugged up or broken somehow when the muffler was put on.

    I leave the truck there, goto work, come back and pray that I can make it back to Houston. NOPE. Pulled off to the Meineke downtown and they said I had a bad CAT code, a bad MUFFLER code (??really, a bad muffler code?? right) and a air/fuel mixture ratio code. I asked if I could make it back and they said sure, but it would be loud.

    So now I'm off and I've got nothing but freeway ahead. It's missing and backfiring and I know there's no way I'm getting back. So I pull over and cut the tail pipe before the cat to provide a temporary fix so I can make it back to Houston. This STILL is not the problem. It hasn't been the IAC solenoid, the coil, the alternator, the rotor (which I replaced too) the cam shaft sensor, the cat or the muffler. GEEEEZUS

    I sputter into Ennis and the local mechanic garage there finds the problem. They started just pulling on wires while the engine was running and it killed the engine. They followed the wires back to the ECM (or sometimes PCM as it's referred to) and found that the ECM probably had a broken circuit board. I saw it happen. They started the truck and with a very slight tap of a wrench on top of the ECM, the truck immediately died.

    Unfortunately, you can't just pull a used ECM from the junk yard. I thought you could and those guys said you could too, but they said it would be used and there would be no warranty. I took it to the Dodge dealership there and they've got my truck until Tuesday when the ECM arrives. Am I overpaying? Probably. However, if you buy one online, Dodge still has to flash it with your VIN and I guess I could have looked one up online there and had it shipped.. (crap). Also, if you get a used one from a junk yard, if it doesn't have the same specs as your truck, you run the risk of wasting your money on something that won't work. It's also illegal to sell a truck with a different ECM VIN programmed in (whatever). It's a one shot deal on that, there is no reprogramming it. I thought I was getting hosed, but in the end, they install it, they flash it, it's all their problem if it goes bad.

    SOOOOO, to close. Tap on your ECM (the thing with the three big plugs screwed to the passenger fender by the air intake box) once you have your truck running and see what happens. If your problem is everyonce and awhile. You might try just unscrewing your ECM from the truck and moving it around and possibly shaking it gently. Move them harness wires a bit too as I see sometimes problems arise from bad splices down the wires from the plug harness on other posts

    NOTE: Here's some other things I did wrong that may have contributed to this break down. When I installed my MSD ignition, I wanted to have a super good ground. I was younger then and grabbed the B+ from the alternator and tried to tie it to this ground plug thing I made. ZAAAP blew the 140 amp fuse in the engine compartment fuse box. (about 8 years ago) Also, I tried those platinum plugs. On a work trip back from Alabama, I heard this crack sound and my truck never did have the greatest fuel mileage after that, even after I put the old copper plugs back in. That's also when I decided to stop using the MSD to see if that would help get the gas mileage back. (around 4 years ago). Which on rare occasions, it did get great gas mileage, but I think I've had a bad ECM for quite a long time. I also did just recently hose wash my engine, as I've done many times before. I can't see that causing a problem, as I stay clear for the most part from the ECM computer. Those things have to be at the least water resistant with rain getting in to the engine compartment. Also, very recently, I've sprayed WD-40 all over and around my rubbers and bushings (i see a joke there, but I can't place it) which helpe
  • Also, very recently, I've sprayed WD-40 all over and around my rubbers and bushings (i see a joke there, but I can't place it) which helped the squeaks for a bit. I don't think I came close to the computer at all. My truck does have 310K miles on it.

    The guy at the car rental place said he had a buddy that wanted to sell his 80's model Chevy for around what I'm going to spend on this ECM. I told him, let me get this straight. I'm going to spend 800 for a used 1980 Chevy?? WOO WOO, oh wait a sec. I could also spend 800 for a used 1998 Dodge Dakota. I told him I would get back to him on that.

    Cheers ya'll,
    Hope something here helped you,
    just an average shmuck
  • I Have a 2000 Dakota Quad Cab, 4.7L 4X4 120500 miles.

    In my earlier post the advice I was given by the dealer and one transmission shop was that my torque converter was slipping during interlock. The problem was more noticeable after my tires got balanced. When truck in neutral or at 35-50 mph, slight vibration. Now in an attempt to get a third opinion, one shop advised that I have a clogged fuel injector. They claimed computer showed, pass side bank was running a little rich. He concluded the torque converter was not bad after getting the truck to breakdown or sputter without the interlock engaged at any speed as long as motor rpms were below 2500. Now I can feel it too. He advised STP fuel injector cleaner at a high concentrate and blow it out on the freeway. After doing just that with no change in ride. After that he felt a clogged injector or failing injector was the problem. I bought two injectors and he put them in, no change, he moved them and still no change.
    **Please note that during all this I have no engine code.
    He also replaced the TPS, no fix. Another mechanic felt that one of the coils might be breaking down. I bought one and put it in and test drove it in all 8 positions, no fix.

    To date, the symptoms and attempted fixes have been as follows:
    First felt vibration at 35-45 mph
    Started feeling it more, went to dealer.
    Drove a week and began to feel more noticeably.
    After fuel injector cleaner, no fix.


    First Diagnostic:
    Transmission fluids slightly dirty, had them change it.
    Old worn plugs, changed myself with exact replacements and proper gap settings (0.40).
    Tires out of balance, Balanced them.
    Flash Updates for ECM and TCM, updated them.
    Went home $450 lighter, still not fixed.

    Second Diagnostic:
    Torque Converter slipping during interlock. Both stated by dealer and first tranny shop.
    or possible bad TCM (no codes)

    Third Diagnostic:
    not torque converter.
    Clogged injector, ran truck hard with double dose of STP, no fix.
    Bought 2 injectors and moved them around, no fix.

    Fourth Diagnostic:
    Possible bad or faulty coil, bought one and played ring around the motor, no fix.

    Fifth Diagnostic:
    Trustworthy Tranny shop states no way it can be torque converter, says it must be tires. With truck off ground and wheels dangling, truck shook on lift, just like on road??

    Sixth Diagnostic:
    New Shop can't find any problem, then suggest rear diff service.
    Finds broken clutch plate and rebuilds. $850
    Problem unchanged and now shop says it is the tires.
    Buy new tires, $650, balance two times and road force balance one time and problems still there.

    After all of the above (over $2000) and hours and hours (priceless) of driving and thinking it feels like an out of round tire. A 35-50mph feels like a slight wobble or hop (tires are good and true and no bent rims) in the rear of the truck.

    Please help!!!!!
    Currently I'm out over $2000 and slightly better than started but not completely gone.
    No OBD codes.

    Could this be a driveshaft bent? Feels to slow and wobbly, not high speed vibration.

    Thanks for your help,
    Jason
  • Was it a used PCM? If so you may have to have it flashed for your vehicle which only can be done by the dealer even though you # match doesnt mean that the computers are flashed the same way!
  • I have a 98 Dodge Dakota 3.9L V6 I have recently replaced the motor with a 2000 with 52k on it. Everything was fine with the install and it seemed to be running great until the temperature dropped a couple degrees. What it would do was it would start but while driving it would stall out for no reason. I have picked my brain on this for over a year now and checked everything in the vehicle from the fuel pump, crank sensor to the coil itself. The funny thing is that no check engine light ever showed up. So I though it could be one of the sensors on the throttle body. I had all the old sensors off the orig. motor so I changed them out only the problem got worse. the truck would start then die emediatly after starting especially when cold out. then sometimes it would start and run fine with no problems. I just couldn't seem to nip this problem in the butt. So I figured the problem should be in one of the sensors i replaced so I started with the IAC valve it had black sut all over it so I started to clean it with starting fluid well I had to of them and am a curious person so I figured i would take one of them apart to see how it worked and low and behold I found that both of the sensors had a piece on them that would unscrew from it both of them it looked like they didnt do anything but I was wrong. what they do is screw in and out to allow different airflow to the TB. I cleaned one of them up and the other i left the same as it was just in case the one I took apart after cleaning I could screw the pice that goes inside the TB in and out and the other was still stuck so after finding this out I put the one I cleaned back in the truck and low and behold it fires up with no problems and runs like a dream and never stalls anymore so if your having problems with stalling and not wanting to start I would start at the IAC first to see if it fixes your problems.
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