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Dodge Dakota Stalling and Dying Problems

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Comments

  • Check msg 105. The part about the computer connection. Could be many things, but my problem ended up being the computer 's internal connections.
    Notice the part about the Check Engine Light not coming on. That is a hint there may be something wrong with the computer module.
    Good luck with it.
  • If it is dying in a random fashion, the only thing that comes to mind is the
    camshaft sensor or the crankshaft sensor going intermitten and causing
    loss of injector and ignition control from the PCM.

    These are known to go "squirrely", being solid state Hall effect sensors,
    and they don't always produce a code at the OBDII diagnostic connector.
  • there is a black box on the passanger side of the engine compartment, it is near the front of the vehicle, has a bolt in the middle holding the cover on, with a bundle of wires coming from it, this is where the problem is coming from
  • roundsddroundsdd Posts: 10
    edited November 2011
    Bluthunder,
    That was my problem also. The black box you are talking about is the computer/ECM that I referenced in post # 105 and 155. My connection was bad inside of the computer module where I couldn't fix it, not just at the plug. I had to buy a used one on EBay and all my problems went away.
    I believe that the check engine light (CEL) is a good indicator of that being the problem. When turning the ignition on, it would not start unless the CEL was on. I had to wiggle that bundle wires at the computer and when the CEL came on, it would start and I was good to go for a while. :)
    Dave
  • I have a 2004 Dakota with a 4.7 motor. It has dyed on me several times in the last week. It does it at different speeds. It also does it when it is warm. I can put it in neutral while still moving and it will start up. Can soneone help me.
  • If it stalling randomly..there should be a computer code stored inside on why
    that may be happening. You need an OBDII reader to pull the codes out
    of the computer (PCM) at the OBDII diagnostic connector.

    As far as the engine stalling on you in a random fashion...it could really be anything... such as:
    - fuel pump pressure intermittent/fuel pump relay or circuit
    -engine timing sensor (camshaft or crankshaft)..both of these are
    used by the PCM (powertrain control module) to determine spark timing
    and injector timing. Any instanteous (temporary glitches) in one of these
    two sensors will cause the PCM to operate the Auto-Shutdown relay located
    in the PDC (Power Distribution Center) on the driver's side fender.

    There may be other sensors (TPS) that can cause the engine to stall on you
    as well, but stalls are usually due to a sensor problem that affects engine timing
    and as soon as the PCM detects that..it kills the fuel injectors and ignition coils
    via the auto-shutdown.
  • My 99 Dakota 3.9SFI won't start after it runs for a little while. Example: I start it in the morning and drive to work. When I get back in it after 20 min it will crank like hell but won't start. If I let it sit for 10 min or so it will start right up. It used to idle at 1K or just under and now it's at 500.

    Here's a better example: I drove on the expressway for 20 min, stopped at the store by my house for 15 min, when I got back in the truck to go home it wouldn't start......waited about 10 min after the initial try and it started right up.

    I can't seem to figure it out, I tested the fuel rail to see if it had strong gas flow, which it does. No check engine light, and never had a problem like this before, so I'm stumped????? :confuse:
  • Could be a lot of things, but look at the TPS. Sometimes they go bad and do not trip a code.
  • try adding a new ground wire from the battery to the body and from the engine to the frame. also make sure all your connections are clean and tight. a little bit of dioelectric silicone will insure that the connections stay clean and don't rust or corrode. you can get it at your local parts store. its the same silicone they put on your plug wires to stop corrosion in your dist cap or coil. Hope this helps you out. I had the same problem with my 87 dakota.
  • check your ecm connectors wiggle them and see if it makes the engine idle raise or try to stall could be a bad ground or a cracked ecm board. check your ground cables body ground and engine to frame ground if not there add one good luck.
  • i have a 1993 dodge dakota and after about 30 miles of driving within a couple hours my truck will start to die while i drive and sometimes not start back up. I replaced the pcv valve, breather cap, rotator cap and motor, and the muffler on it. That helped a lil bit but still it dies. I have been told that it could be the EGR valve. Anybody have any other suggestions?
  • This was a common problem that I had when I was younger, and unfortunately can be an expensive fix if you are unfamiliar with the Dodge systems and engage in a hit-or-miss type of fix. Unfortunately, mechanics who are familiar love to play this game with you to drive up their revenue and your repair bill by having you come in for these monopoly dice repairs, when the problem may be a quick, easy fix with a $45.00 part. Behing the carburetor on the passenger side and just behind the manifold is a harness leading to what is called the Crank Position Sensor. It basically has the job of telling the engine the position that the crankshaft is in and regulates the firing time accordingly. Quite often on the older Dakotas, this is the problems, and it's symptoms are similar to that of a bad fuel pump, or module issue. There was even a fellow tech that told me I needed a motor. I realize this blog is 4 years late in the making, but it is my first day on this site, and perhaps this may benefit someone down the road who visits.
  • This was a common problem that I had when I was younger, and unfortunately can be an expensive fix if you are unfamiliar with the Dodge systems and engage in a hit-or-miss type of fix. Unfortunately, mechanics who are familiar love to play this game with you to drive up their revenue and your repair bill by having you come in for these monopoly dice repairs, when the problem may be a quick, easy fix with a $45.00 part. Behing the carburetor on the passenger side and just behind the manifold is a harness leading to what is called the Crank Position Sensor. It basically has the job of telling the engine the position that the crankshaft is in and regulates the firing time accordingly. Quite often on the older Dakotas, this is the problems, and it's symptoms are similar to that of a bad fuel pump, or module issue. There was even a fellow tech that told me I needed a motor. I realize this blog is 4 years late in the making, but it is my first day on this site, and perhaps this may benefit someone down the road who visits.
  • thats exactly what it was. i took it to the shop and they replaced the crank sensor and the pcm. which was quite a lot of money but it was still shutting off sometimes. so i replaced the fuel filter on it and it doesnt sputter r shut off at all now. My brother blew through the old filter and could barely feel air come through the other side. Thanks
  • Hi everyone.ni have a dodge Dakota 1999 rear wheel drive v8. My car has lost power while driving and shuts off. When I try restarting it, the engine cranks no problem, tries to stay on, but dies. I got a check engine light with a two codes. One is about the >throttle position sensor, and the second one is >engine running and the ECM detected MAP sensor voltage less than expected. Anyone experienced similar problems before that can help me trouble shoot this?
  • I have a 2005 Dodge Dakota that has recently started "sputtering" when I'm in drive, sitting at a light...it had yet to actually die on me until this weekend. I shut it off and it started right back up. It seems to be running a little rough as well. It has never had a tune up, so I'm not sure it that would fix it. Also in the past few years, sometimes I will put it in reverse or drive and it will take about 10 seconds to actually get into that gear and it jerks. We are trying to start out small and cheap, so we are going to be replacing spark plugs tonight...we'll see what that does. Anyone have this same problem?
  • roundsddroundsdd Posts: 10
    I haven't had this problem yet, but it could be lots of things.
    How many miles and what engine and 2/4 wheel drive, trans?
    No codes from the OBDII genie? Could be Fuel filter/pump, plug wires getting old, grimy dirt causing grounding, dirty IAC, bad throttle control unit (many go bad I've heard), bad ground somewhere. Not sure if you have a distributor, but that could be it. Bad ground causes lots of things. Results are unpredictable.
    Don't really like the trans problem. Of course, check fluid levels, then electric connections/ground.
    Check EGR valve operation. Check for vacuum problems. Computers hide things by over compensating until they can't anymore. Usually get some codes though.
    I used to replace my plug wires when I could see the spark going thru them in the dark. I would idle the engine at night in the dark with no lights. That was in my older vehicles. Also the spark coil. I'm not sure if your engine has 1 or many. Those connections can get corroded.
    Good hunting. I hope somebody that had this problem answers you.
  • I have a 99 dodge dakota with a 3.9 L engine. I won't stay running without having the throttle depressed or the vacuum hose pulled off the pcv valve. Its acting like a vacuum leak. Just did a full tune up on it- plugs, wires, cap and rotor, air filter, coil and pcv valve. No codes. What is using vacuum? pcv, fuel tank canister, dash controls, brake booster, cruise control, and what else? Don't see an EGR valve. Leaking intake Gasket??? Help me out here. Has 192,000 miles
  • roundsddroundsdd Posts: 10
    Sounds like it needs more air, or less gas, if it runs better with vacuum hose off. That would say it is not a vacuum leak as a leak would give it more air. I would check the IAC and TPS after insuring all wiring connections are in place.
    Did this start after your tune up or before.
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    +1 for the IAC. If that's not working or hung up, then the engine will essentially be choked off until another source of air is provided.
  • so when i got the truck i took my former friend who has been a mechanic for 27 years... the truck had to be what my fiance calls "neutral dropped" to go into reverse and stalled when put into gear anything but park and neutral. he said all that was wrong with it was either the tcc solenoid or the speed sensor and promised me hed fix it cause he talked me into buying the thing... then he decided he wasnt my friend anymore over some 5th grade type drama... anyways i replaced the solenoid and the sensor as well as flushed the transmission and changed the filter in there, its had a full tune up... including serpentine belt, distributor cap and button and spark plugs and wires... ive also replaced the iac after reading that it could cause these issues and when we looked at it it was broken. after all that we noticed the radiator reservoir cap was gone so that got us thinking and we found out there was barely any liquid in the radiator and when we flushed it we got a ton of rusty water. after all weve done to it it runs pretty good except that it dies if you put it into reverse from anything but neutral. it also has no brakes in reverse. it has 171900 miles on it and i know it needs a power steering pump, but it will be well worth doing that if i dont have to sink a grand into a new transmission. Ive ordered a computer reader online cause my check engine light is on, and it should be here before too long but also i cant find the coolant bleeder valve... i only got the truck cause we live out in the middle of nowhere and have to haul our own trash and just after we got it the car started going out so i need to know if this thing is more headache than its worth or what... please help if you can :cry:
  • nova4lifenova4life Posts: 4
    My husbands truck is a 1992 Dodge Dakota with 300k miles on it. It has been dying, running really rough, surging, shaking. The crankshaft position sensor has been changed along with wires, plugs, distributor cap, coil, and we put fuel injection stuff in the tank. Now it won't start at all, I'M writing this because now he has to take my 74 nova to work every day,,,PLEASE HELP!! any input would be greatly appreciated, a list of anything else to do.
  • roundsddroundsdd Posts: 10
    IAC or EGR Valve jump out as a possibilities. 300K, wow. By now I would think he knows everything about that truck. Check fuel pump/filter. I had my computer get a break in the internal wires and had to replace that. See post #105 on page 6 for info.
    Could be lots of things. Good hunting.
  • nova4lifenova4life Posts: 4
    We took it in yesterday just to find out it was the coil, but now today at low RPM it is still dying, and the truck was given to him, so he hasn't put the whole mileage on it lol, could this be a sensor?
  • roundsddroundsdd Posts: 10
    edited June 2012
    Interesting.
    Did the new coil solve the other problems? I saw that the wires were replaced and the coil, but it was still the coil they said?
    Hope they replaced the plugs and wires. They usually break down after a while, 100,000 miles. Old wires will show the spark going thru them at night. let it idle, when it will, and have all the lights off in the area and watch the light show.

    Another thing that goes bad is electrical connections after 10 or so years. Check and clean all the connections and also the plug wire and coil wire connections. Sometimes they get rusty where you can't see it and build up resistance, but that shouldn't be as they were replaced.
    Include the battery ground to the block.

    Could be in the distributor.

    Could still be The Idle Air Control (IAC) or EGR. The IAC is under the air filter on the throttle body, if memory serves. It gets dirty and sometimes doesn't close or work correctly. I had cleaned mine a few times but I finally bought a new one, around $50, and solved the problem. It is held in by 2 screws after you detach the wire connector. A pretty simply task to replace it.
    EGR is at rear? of the engine and is also an easy fix.

    I don't believe the 92 has a Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). I have heard that the TPS goes bad on the newer vehicles. I bought a 2001 Dakota 3.9 with 51,000 and replaced the TPS immediately just to be safe.
    It has been a while since I had my 92. Hope I gave you straight info. I had it for 15 years and 180,000 miles. It was starting to take up all my time and rust wasn't stopping.

    OH, check for a vacuum leak.
    Did it backfire thru the throttle body when under load?

    Good hunting.
  • alanartalanart Posts: 7
    My 1992 V6 was doing the same thing...turned out to be the TPS.
  • drdaleadrdalea Posts: 1
    Check distributer shaft play....3/8 inch back and forth is allowed.

    If OK when it dies is the check engine light on with key forward. if yes does it start. (intermittent problem) If check engine light not on with key forward and when you crank it does not start replace the PCM about $155 at advance
    this is what fixed mine.

    Hope this is helpful to you.
  • hey im new to the car/truck scene, i just bought a 02 dodge dakota automatic v6 2x4 ext cab. its my first automobile, and ive had a few problems with it. when in reverse going up a hill, its very easy to stall out. when i take tight turns in parking lots or culdisacks where i have the wheel completely turned one direction, it stalls out (in drive or reverse). and finally sometimes when i put it in drive or reverse, it sticks in neutral even though it says im in gear on the dash. i asked a few friends and got different answers from all of them ranging from turn a few wrenches to buy a whole new transmission.
    i would appreciate the help and advice god bless
  • we bough our son a 93 dakota 2wd v6 and sometimes it will just click and then sometimes it will start and it usually has to sit for awhile to start and when it does it starts really hard like the engines dragging. we have put in new battery , starter, and fuel filter we were thinking it was the fuel pump but not sure. when its running it runs ok and doesnt stall. any suggetions
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