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Hyundai Azera Noises

2

Comments

  • grayfoxgrayfox Posts: 166
    My '06 has the same problem as your XG350. What did they change the '07s?
  • hjc1hjc1 Posts: 183
    Hi Grayfox
    I have no idea what if any changes were made. If yours make noise try the rubber or felt idea. Place behind lic. plate. Walmart has all kinds pads located in the hardware dept.
  • cwj3620cwj3620 Posts: 14
    The noise I have is definitely not from the license plate area at all, it is coming from underneath the trunk area
    CJ
  • floridabob1floridabob1 Posts: 1,190
    RE:25
    Have you checked to be certain that the spare tire and tools are properly secured?
  • cwj3620cwj3620 Posts: 14
    YES, there is absolutely no noise from within the trunk the sound is emulating from under the trunk, possibly between the trunk body and the bumper. Read the posts at Hyundai-Forums.com; "Azera": "Rattle in Rear".

    CJ
  • gamlegedgamleged Posts: 442
    OK, I finally went and listened for the "trunk area rattle" and I do hear one when any of the doors are firmly closed.

    But if I first open the trunk lid, I get no rattle from within. My best guess is that the fuzzy lid cover (which feels rather flexible and does make a little noise when I push on it) is the culprit, and that when the trunk lid is up and somewhat isolated from the body by the hinge support only, the liner doesn't quite get the movement necessary for it to make that little bit of noise...
  • Was the noise intermittent, and was it more apt to occur during colder weather? I'm beginning to think my dealer thinks I'm nuts as the problem happens so intermittently. The squeaky noise seems to be originating from the front driver side, i.e., where the dash meets the windshield. Every so often, I'll hear a rather loud crack, sort of like a stone hitting the windshield. Given your diagnosis, its as if the cracking noise is related to shifting of the the pillar, as was your problem diagnosed. Albeit, the cracking noise is very infrequent, it's the illusive squeaky noise that is driving me nuts. And again, the squeak seems to only occur in the 20-25 degree outside temp range. Has Hyundai documented your issue as an isolated incident, or a pervasive problem?
  • jim101jim101 Posts: 252
    2006 Limited, Ultimate Package, 19K, 23 months old

    Shock noise, replaced, end of noise

    Rear screen started to sag on upper right side and would hit window when going over a bump, one heck of a thump.

    The rear base speaker has had a rattle from day one if the volume was over 6

    To fix rear screen requires a lot of patience because to get to the screen assembly you need to remove,
    1. the negative battery cable
    2. the trunk cover piece just behind the rear seat 2 philips screws when the seat tops are folded down
    3. the lower rear seat, remove 2 bolts that are under the cover you just removed, use clean ratchet with extension between lower and upper cushion, push in tabs in front of seat near carpet and remove, an extra set of hands works well
    4. both sides of the seat back near the doors, 1 bolt each on bottom, slide piece up and out, disconnect the air bag connector and slip seatbelt through the slit on the bracket
    5. the back of the rear seat, 2 bolts in center (1 in each seat section) and the 2 bolts on either side that hold the side of the seat back
    6. the bolts that hold seat belts to the floor
    7. snap out (I used my finger nail) the round plastic symbol (attached to the frame with a small wire) on the frame around the small rear side window on both sides and remove the torx bolt, the piece then has only one pressure snap holding each side
    8. the rear frame on either side next to the package tray that goes to the back window
    9. 4 screws on the back of the seat that hold the package tray
    10. the package tray, two snap clips on either side, takes some patience as getting them to release is not real easy
    11. the package tray behind the screen, four snap clips, this one is a little tricky but it does come out, disconnect connector for rear brake light
    12. 4 bolts that hold the screen assembly (2 in front and 2 behind), disconnect connector

    well that covers the removal, good job

    Typically the aircraft nut holding the right side has backed off and needs to be re tightened. Remove the 2 small screws holding the plastic end cover and remove.
    Using 2 open end metric wrenches, 1 open fits into the assembly and the other is used to tighten the exposed nut until quite snug

    Replace the assembly in reverse of removal

    Temporarily put the negative battery cable back on, operate screen to make sure it fits snugly to the top of the rear window when up

    Now is the time to fix that rear speaker, remove bolts and carefully remove speaker and disconnect the connector
    Place several pieces of sponge tape around the speaker frame (I used double sided but only took the cover off one side of the tape) without covering the mounting holes, replace speaker, snug bolts a little at a time until you are happy with the tightness, remember if you leave it to loose you get to do all this again to get back to the bolts, ugh...

    If your happy, disconnect the negative terminal and replace all the stuff in reverse order

    The speaker rattle is gone, the window screen does not thump against the window, ye-ha

    Now, you could take it to the dealer and have them do the work, my bet is they would forget the speaker issue and write it off as normal.

    Good luck to all, I'm placing my order for the Genesis this week
  • dborthdborth Posts: 474
    re # 30: I'm placing my order for the Genesis this week

    Let us know how that goes, and if the dealer is even in the Genesis loop.

    Congratulations, you will no doubt have one of the first off the ship.
  • floridabob1floridabob1 Posts: 1,190
    RE: 30
    This tedious job was performed twice by dealer, under warranty.
    On each occasion they replaced sagging sun shade with a new unit.
    It is now working fine.
    Why would you want to go through the labor of taking apart car and not replacing the shade with a new one?
    If you are concerned about the speaker mount modification, do it as the tech is replacing the sun shade.
  • jim101jim101 Posts: 252
    I'm an efficiency engineer and often want to see how something was engineered and if it could have been more user friendly. In this case a modification to the package tray would reduce this to removal of a much smaller piece of package tray from the front of the screen area, the piece behind the screen and then removal of the screen.
    Basically current design is not ideal, all of this stuff needs to be removed to replace the third stoplight.
    It also allowed me to fix the speaker.

    Replacing the whole unit is not cost effective if by design the problem can be corrected at the manufacturer.

    And, our local dealer just doesn't give me a warm fuzzy feeling due to some poor service in years past.
  • My brand-new 07 Azera has an intermittent rattle (small-ish but annoying) from the center/top dash area. My guess is that it is in the center speaker, because it seems to stop if you press down on it.

    Worse is the rattle from the rear package-shelf area. It is also intermittent, and sounds like metal-on-metal. You can hear it clearly every time you slam a rear door, as well. My guess is if I removed the trunk dress-up cladding from the area of the trunk-lid hinges and had someone keep slamming the door while I lay in the trunk, I could locate and do something about the rattle myself. However, I'm afraid that I would someone damage the clips holding up the cladding (not knowing anything about how to go about it) and wind up with sagging cladding as a reward for my efforts.

    Love the car, but am kind of p.o.'d about this.

    Anyone have any thoughts?
  • Your post came up when I posted the reply (to a different post) below [I am new at this]. It sounds like you may know exactly what I should do. Any suggestions?

    Here's the post:

    My brand-new 07 Azera has an intermittent rattle (small-ish but annoying) from the center/top dash area. My guess is that it is in the center speaker, because it seems to stop if you press down on it.

    Worse is the rattle from the rear package-shelf area. It is also intermittent, and sounds like metal-on-metal. You can hear it clearly every time you slam a rear door, as well. My guess is if I removed the trunk dress-up cladding from the area of the trunk-lid hinges and had someone keep slamming the door while I lay in the trunk, I could locate and do something about the rattle myself. However, I'm afraid that I would someone damage the clips holding up the cladding (not knowing anything about how to go about it) and wind up with sagging cladding as a reward for my efforts.

    Love the car, but am kind of p.o.'d about this.

    Anyone have any thoughts?
  • pcunniffpcunniff Posts: 11
    Just read your post, and would like to ask you to clarify something for me (a non-techie/dependent-on-dealer-service guy). This rattle that happens intermittently (I think the colder it gets the worse it gets) when you slam a rear door and/or go over a bump is (we think) a loose rear center speaker mounting? If so, can you condense the fix into a few very brief, "dumb-dealer-proof" sentences so that I can furnish the dealer with instructions the next time it goes in for service? Thanks.
  • pcunniffpcunniff Posts: 11
    The owner's manual for both my 07 Azera Limited and a more-or-less base 08 Kia Sedona which I rented recently clearly state that when you put the transmission in reverse the side-view mirrors are supposed to automatically tilt down for a better view of the ground behind you (just as they do in my wife's SRX). So, it's clearly a standard Hyundai feature. However, neither car's mirrors would actually does anything of the sort, no matter where I positioned the mirror-adjust selector switch.

    My Hyundai dealer has no clue that the feature is even supposed to be on the car, and claimed that they cannot do anything about it.

    Anyone have any clues?
  • 101649101649 Posts: 192
    Not an option on the US version of any Azerea's yet. You'll probably find a few items or options listed in the manual that are only available outside the US.
  • iriegirliriegirl Posts: 4
    I have the same problem on my dash and have taken it to 2 different dealers. One said it's the foam rubbing against the plastic, which is then rubbing against the windshield. The noise tends to get louder the more I drive it and/or the warmer it gets.

    He also said that the only "possible" solution would be to completely replace the dash pad, which meant taking out the entire dash assembly. I'm just under my 1-year/12,000 mile warranty and it would be now or never. Even if I did replace it all, there's a chance one can open themselves up to more noises, since it's reinstalled by tech guys and not at the factory. Apparently there are more than 300 screws in the dash.

    So I took it to another dealer for a 2nd opinion. He basically said the same thing. My noise is so loud sometimes that I need to actually turn on the radio to drown it out. Not SO horrible with XM and all, but I don't want to always have my radio on.

    I decided to choose my battles carefully and hope that over time the squeaks actually wear themselves out by rubbing for so long.

    If you find ANYTHING out, I'm all ears.
  • pcunniffpcunniff Posts: 11
    Liberty Hyundai of Mahwah, NJ successfully eliminated this rattle (which has been present in my 2007 Azera Limited since I bought it, growing gradually worse and worse, less so in hot weather, worst of all in cold) during a warranty visit. They diagnosed the problem as a loose drain tube for the sunroof and re-secured it. Voila: the rattle is gone.

    Now, if they could just do the same for the creaking from the front center speaker grille....
  • r7nr7n Posts: 5
    My 07 Azera Limited now has 61,000 miles on the odo. I've had the strut noise, headlight dimming problem and the cracked dash pad. Now for a new problem that I have not been able to find on the Azera forum.

    About two months ago a plastic panel on the left side of the under carriage cracked around the supporting studs on the front of the panel. This allowed the front of the panel to drop to the pavement at 70MPH. That will wake you up. I pulled over and managed to push the panel back into place and it held until I got home. I installed large washers over the cracked plastic and re installed the nuts. Looking over the panel it seems that Hyundai may have not used large enough washers on the panel; and there are definitely not enough of them.

    Last week the right side plastic panel on the under carriage did the same thing. This time I was on a road trip to my grand daughters wedding in Texas City. I was unable to get the panel to stay up while working on the side of a major 4 lane highway, in a rural area. I let it drag until I reached the nearest shop, which happened to be a Jeep dealership about 5 miles away. They immediately put the car on a lift and removed the front half of the plastic panel. Once again the plastic had cracked around the supporting studs and nuts. The back half was still securely attached. The Jeep dealership had me on the road again in less than 15 minutes and no charge for the service. They also inspected the under side of the car to insure it was safe to drive.

    Both of my panels failed at 70MPH. At lower speeds the panels would rise up so they would not drag. At higher speeds the air flow under the car would catch the panel and force it to the pavement - hey it was an air scoop. I believe that in slower city driving I heard the right panel "chattering" on the under carriage the week before it dropped. Now that half of the panel is gone - so is the chattering noise.

    I believe that the cause of the broken panels is a design flaw for the supporting hardware and a failure to adequately reinforce the panels in areas of high stress (around the holes). I suppose road trash, air buffeting and water pounding on them for 60K miles could have an adverse affect on them over time.

    I'm not exactly sure of the true purpose of the panels, but I feel like they are only there to improve aerodynamics - they are not covering anything vital. I'm leaning toward removing them altogether, but will consult with my dealer before doing so.

    Have others had the same problem? Oh No - it happened after bumper to bumper warranty ran oh.....shucks...
  • cobrazeracobrazera Posts: 352
    I had the same exact thing happen on my '06 Azera with 32K miles - right side. Pulled over, pushed it up, then kept it under 45MPH and it stayed in place.

    I took it in and they repaired it by installing larger washers. While the car was in service I visited with my salesrep ( also a friend outside the dealership ) who told me " yeah, it's a common problem, and they sometimes replace the entire shield if they have one in stock ". In my case they didn't have one in stock, but charged me $25 for the larger washers.

    For this and for numerous other items that I know are common problems ( chipped steering wheel, suspension issues, etc. ), and which Hyundai will not repair under warranty - I will not purchase another Hyundai product. If they are this nickel-dime on the small stuff, can one really expect them to replace an engine or tranny at 95K miles?
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