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GMC Acadia Problems and Repairs



  • These cars are rated for 16 city/23 highway. Getting a whopping grand total of 14MPG avg when doing more than half freeway driving is APALLING. I have owned multiple new vehicles (4WD, or AWD SUVs) from other manufacturers - Jeep, Ford, and Toyota, and have ALWAYS gotten either spot on sticker stated mileage or at most 1-2 MPG off from day 1 though the time they were sold (one at 14 years, 1 at 11 years, and one at 7 year old). The fact that GMC and the Acadia in particular can't deliver the same thing says there is a problem with the car that the rating agency needs to take a serious, and long hard look at it. And GMC needs to fix it. Had I been told this vehicle was rated for 10/11 MPG city (what I am getting 2700 miles now) and 14 freeway I would have NEVER, EVER bought this car.
  • First off if you only have 2700 miles on the odometer your engine is still breaking in. You have to wait until 7500 or more before the engine is really broken in with everything seated properly. I regularly get 16 - 17 MPG driving around town. On highway trips I get maybe 19 or 20. Then again I have 4 people in the car, luggage and driving 75 MPH.

    When you get the 14MPG what is your average speed? That will help you better determine why your mileage is so low. It doesn't take much time sitting in stop and go traffic, cold weather, etc to bring your mileage down in a heartbeat.

    Other items to think about are:
    1. Is your tire pressure set a factory recommendations or higher for best performance?
    2. Do you drive all gas and brakes? Every drive with a light throttle or coasting when coming up to lights?
    3. When you get on the highway and set the cruise on say 60 or 65 and then reset the instant mileage what does it show if maintain that speed for say 15 or 20 miles?
    4. Do you have the vehicle loaded with a bunch of extra crap that is like driving around with a full loaded vehicle of people?
    5. What is your typical drive like? Lots of hills, avg speed

    Finally, are you going by the onboard computer or calculating manually?
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,001
    I apologize you are experiencing these problems. Can you please e-mail me with your VIN, current mileage, involved dealer, complete contact information including a good number to reach you, and a summary of your experience/concerns (including those codes if you have them). I want to look into this further for you.
    GM Customer Service
  • We continue to experience a similar problem with our 2010 ACADIA. While going full speed on the highway, the car dramatically slows down, unlocks and locks the doors (all by itself), and eventually (after 15 seconds) goes back to normal. When we tell the dealership about the problem, they look at us like we have to heads. OnStar never detects anything and the dealership cannot reproduce the problem so I guess we are stuck with the car until something bad happens. We are VERY disappointed and disgruntled with GMC...
  • I am new to this forum and would like some advice. I purchased my 2009 Acadia 07/09, but it was built in 08. When it had 7500 miles I changed the oil even though I still had 52% oil life left (because I read that it might help with bad gas mileage). About one month later (11/09) I started to hear a random knocking noise when I started the car but the dealership was unable to duplicate. In March 2010 I took the vehicle in again with the same complaint plus the drivers seat leather had to be replaced, part of the trim near the radio had to be replaced and my power steering was making a rubbing noise so that had to be repaired (they put in a new part). At that time they suggested that I get my oil changed because I had 15000 miles and even though my OLM said 48% I agreed. The engine noise continued off and on and in August (after driving from Oklahoma to Washington DC and having to add a total of 2 quarts of oil) it started always occurring with a cold start. I took it in and was again advised to change my oil (22000 miles OLM 56%), I did change the oil though it made no difference with the noise. I finally took it to a new dealership and the timing chain was replaced a few weeks ago. However, they suggested that I no longer use the OLM and get my oil changed every 3000 miles "to clear excessive engine sludge".... the power steering is also not working correctly again and they were unable to repair until the get advice from a GM rep (because the other repair did not last). I am fed up, this was a $45000 car that was supposed to be low maintenance and I planned on keeping it long term. Now I don't know what to do, should I expect continued problems? Should I get rid of it?
  • What kind of problems did you have with your 2009?
  • Seeing as how the dealer does not put Synthetic oil I would never rely on the OLM for the oil changes. If you waited until it got close to 25% like they want you would be going 10 - 12k before an oil change. You are just look for problems.

    I always do the oil change at 3K - 3750 and the OLM is around 88%. That neglect on proper maintenance could be causing your problems and not a bad vehicle. At least your problem is reproducable so when you bring it in the dealer cannot deny it does not exist. My issue is a different story.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    I no longer use the OLM and get my oil changed every 3000 miles "to clear excessive engine sludge"

    If there is sludge in your motor, 3000 miles OCI will not clear it. The only solution at that point would be to replace the motor. If there is sludge and the "knock" is from the lower part of the motor the main bearings have been damaged and the engine will have to be replaced. Course you are under warranty so the dealer may be trying to stall the inevitable repair.

    If you have an independent mechanic, one who you can trust, have them check for sludge. You don't want to be without warranty should you need to replace the motor.
  • Well my vehicle is dead once again today after having it back for a week and half. The dealer disabled the OnStar module hoping that was the culprit, apparently not. Already spoke with my GM Service Rep and she is going to see about doing a collateral trade with her managers given the continued issue with the vehicle.

    Christina, I sent you an e-mail about this asking a few questions. Please answer when you get a chance.

    Happy Thanksgiving everyone!
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,001
    Have you requested a service technician to ride with you to see if the problem occurs? I would also recommend asking if they could put a code reader in your vehicle for when the problem occurs. I would definitely recommend looking into these options at your dealer. Please keep me updated on your progress.
    GM Customer Service
  • Has anyone had a headlight lens "bubble" from the heat generated from the headlight bulb? Mine has and no I did not replace them with the blue ones!
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Actually HID burns cooler than halogens.

    Mine's leaked but no bubble.
  • Christina,
    The problem occurs sporadically--sometimes a few times a week, and then not for a week or two. Therefore, riding along with a technician would most likely be ineffective. I will inquire about the code reader. Thank you for your attention. It's refreshing to see that GM has this kind of outreach to the customers--the dealership has not been responsive to our concerns.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    edited November 2010
    According to this reference HID runs over 4000°K; while Tungsten-Halogen runs around 3000°K. And, technically, they don't burn (oxidize) else they'd be depleted in seconds. :)

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • replying to: obyone (Nov 28, 2010 12:00 pm)
    According to this reference HID runs over 4000&degK; while Tungsten-Halogen runs around 3000°K. And, technically, they don't burn (oxidize) else they'd be depleted in seconds.

    That is not their "heat" temperature. It is their colour temperature.

    4000K is a bluer white than 3000K. 3000K is fairly yellow.

    For photo work, I calibrate my LCD monitor to either 5000K or 6500K. 6500K is supposed to be most like the color of natural sunlight.

    Those really "blue" HID headlamps.... their color temperature is likely somewhere around 8000K to 10000K.

  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Actually, I thought you might have meant thermal temperature - after - I wrote my previous note!

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • I have read many posts on this blog about momentary loss of power steering. I know that it happens in heavy rain and it happens when you turn the wheel in a certain direction.
    It happens to me and it scares that heck out of me. Since we all agree on that this phenomenon exists, does anyone know if GM has put out a fix for this either officially of by way of quiet recall?
  • Lol that's a joke to actually think that GM would care about their consumers... All I hear when my car goes in for service for either stalling, mechanical function lose as well as engine reducing power is if we can't duplicate it we can't fix it... So they continue to give you a safety hazard to drive... I no longer rely on them I have taken matters into my own hands.... My car has been in and out over 5 times and I'm done dealing with this non-sense as well as the incompetent mechanics... Your best bet is contact an attorney for breech of warranty they can not keep giving you back a vehicle that clearly has a safety issue... There are laws out there to protect consumers....
  • u sound just like me!!! my car has had all of those probs and then some! the worse car i have ever owned! at leasted u r just leasing it! i still dont know what i am going to do :( gl to u!!!
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    There are two recalls. One for the heated washer fluid and one for the A/T cable.

    Of the 178 TSBs out there are two that relates to the power steering pump. One details pump diagnostics and the other pump whine noise. None relates to loss of steering. Pump failure will leave you with steering just not power assisted.
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