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Subaru Legacy/Outback Transmission Problems

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Comments

  • janisjadejanisjade Posts: 2
    While driving on the Interstate at 70 mph, after 20 minutes, there was this event like a super rough downshift. Lots of whining and noiuse from under the hood. The shop said transmission was shot. They replaced it. I've had it back a week and local driving was fine. Then I went back on the Interstate and drove at 70 mph for about 20 miles and the same thing happened. Not as violent. Same noises as before. I got off the Interstate and happened on a red light. When the light changed to green and I stepped on the gas there was a lot of bucking and rough shifts .....both upshifting and downshifting. I took it back to the shop. The next day they took it for four test drives and could find nothing wrong. Everything operated smoothly and without any noise. Ideas????
  • dzelinskidzelinski Posts: 6
    My 2001 2.5 auto outback developed a whistling noise shortly after the warranty expired. It is heard loudest just before shifting gears during hard acceleration. As it shifts into the next gear, the sound goes away until it needs to shift again. Ideas? Solutions?
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,397
    A whistle, or a whine? My old '96 would develop a whine at high RPMs if under acceleration (approximately 3500 RPM and higher). It did this from about 160K miles onward through 220K. My impression was that it might be the rear differential, but it never grew much worse (louder) and I never did get to diagnosing it.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    A Whistle probably has to do with the intake system.

    -mike
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,397
    Yeah, it would have to be caused by air. Just was not thinking how air relates to shifting, but the intake makes sense. :blush:
  • dzelinskidzelinski Posts: 6
    Thanks for the replies. I had one mechanic listen to it and he thought a leak in the air intake, but everything looks intact. I guess it could also be described as a whine. Definitely coming from the front.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    It doesn't take much to cause a whistle in the intake system, something in the fenderwell, or a pinhole can cause it.

    -mike
  • dzelinskidzelinski Posts: 6
    So would it make sense that I could rev the engine until I hit the same rpm's as when it is about to shift and I should be able to replicate the sound?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    possibly, but sometimes it can be effected by engine load as well.

    -mike
  • dzelinskidzelinski Posts: 6
    It's not here right now, but I shall try later. Don't remember ever hearing it in a standing position, but then again, I don't remember reving it that high. I'll report back later. Thanks again.
  • debbietdebbiet Posts: 2
    I just bought a 2002 Outback with 77 K miles. It was quiet on the test drive, but on the way home it was rattling. It seems to be coming from the dash board or steering column directly in front of the driver's seat. When I use the turn signal it makes a fuuny noise too. Is this indicitive of any common problems? The rattle comes and goes. I wish it go for good.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,397
    The rattling may be a result of a faulty clip (or clips) on the ventilation ducting. Not sure about the turn signal; I have not experienced or heard of any problems with them.
  • mike200mike200 Posts: 1
    I'm thinking the valve body is the problem' and yes I have the same exact problem as you. Mine works on startup but hesitates after it's warmed up. Did you have any luck finding the actual problem. I can't see this as a seal problem,mine doesn't slip at all and works perfectly once activated, but won't reingage after it's put in park,and reverse always works,so I think it has to be a sticky valve body valve,and shouldn't cost that much to fix. If you have a url that cures this I would much appreciate hearing from you. Thanks: Mike
  • I have a 93 legacy sedan with the automatic trans. Front wheel drive. For a few days now it has been shifting pretty rough. At first I thought it waqs a fuel flow issue, but I put it in cruise control at sixty in some hill country and every shift up and downshift was rough. Not really hesitant, just rough, shaking hard shifting. Any ideas what might cause this? I checked the fluid and it looks fine. I haven't tried changing the filter and fluid yet as I was told it was done a few k ago.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Does easing off the throttle help a bit?

    Crips shifts aren't necessarily bad. I'm sure they don't feel good, but it's better than mushy/hesitant shifts.
  • Both easing off and slightly accelerating seem to help. Also, it doesn't seem to happen as often if I'm in manual shift mode. Could it be a fuel flow issue or is it just transmission slippage occurring? Thanks for the reply.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I don't think it's slipping, in fact it's sort of the opposite, there is no slop so you're feeling the shifts.

    At that age, it's 14 years old, you should count your blessings. Try to be easy on her and keep her running forever!
  • suttonbizsuttonbiz Posts: 1
    Was just told by the dealership that we needed to replace the entire transmission in our 2001 Outback AWD because the center differential is shot. Says that Subaru requires them to replace the entire transmission instead of fixing the differential. Doesn't sound right to me. Anyone know about that?
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,397
    It is a shared housing, so maybe Subaru is afraid their techs will mess something up when they break into it.... :surprise:

    But honestly, no, I am not sure why they would require a full replacement of the entire assembly.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    It's all one unit. Front Diffy, Trans and center diffy. What I would do is get one from a junk yard and have that installed. Price should be about $500-900 for the trans/frontdiffy/centerdiffy and about $400 or so to have it put in.

    -mike
  • hugh5hugh5 Posts: 5
    I have a 2005 Outback Limited AM (new model) At 40K we noticed a vibration in the steering that when diaganosed by the Subura dealer resulted in a new transmission being installed.

    We had originally thought we would keep this car for at least ten years, but not now. Its going next year way before it hits 80K :(
  • davenmndavenmn Posts: 1
    Greetings First time poster I have had problems (transmission) towing my homemade teardrop trailer that weights about 1300# in the mountains with my current 2000 2.5L outback. I want to get a different Suby, like maybe a 2001 VDC 3.0 6 which is rated at a higher towing capacity. The engines are different. What about the transmission?Thanks
  • rshollandrsholland Posts: 19,661
    Current published Subie tow ratings:

    Forester: 2400 pounds

    Outback H-4 models, including XT turbo: 2700 pounds
    Outback H-6 model: 3000 pounds

    I'm assuming the same Outback ratings are true for the Legacys, although the tow ratings are no longer published in the brochures.

    I believe the Impreza is limited to 2000 pounds.

    NOTE: Those ratings are with trailer brakes. If you have no trailer brakes, all Subies are limited to 1000 pounds towing. For further info, check the owner's manual.

    Finally, in other markets all these vehicles are rated to tow more than here in the USA. I've been told it's because Subaru of America is very conservative when it comes to their tow ratings. The vehicles are up to towing more, but SoA is concerned about engine cooling, thus keeping the tow numbers down.

    Bob
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,397
    I think I would be more concerned about transmission cooling than engine cooling. I have some friends who drove their 2000 Forester from Maryland to Alaska with a 2000# loaded trailer in tow. About 3 months after arriving, they had to have a new transmission installed (under warranty). I doubt it is coincidence that the failure occurred so soon after completing that 4000 mile trek. ;)
  • rshollandrsholland Posts: 19,661
    Yeah, that too. I think the Tribeca, with the tow package, includes a tranny cooler.

    Bob
  • jresjres Posts: 69
    Ok here's an odd one. I have a 2000 Legacy GT wagon with a manual transmission and 76K miles.

    Under load such as encountering a hill, while in 5th gear the car will exhibit a slipping behavior. There is a 1000-1500 rpm blip of the engine during which the car doesn't accelerate. It also happens to a lesser extent in 4th and does not happen in 1st through 3rd.

    Any thoughts?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Sounds like the clutch to me. I'm surprised you observe it in 4th and 5th and not from a start in 1st. Does the clutch still grab well?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I'm going to 2nd the clutch. I've seen this happen in several occasions. I'd say that you should start looking for a clutch for it. Try the Exedy Sport it's slightly stiffer than stock but still is organic and will last a little longer.

    -mike
  • jresjres Posts: 69
    What's bothering me is exactly what juice picked up on, It's pulling fine first through third. I have never heard of a clutch being bad in the upper gears. A shot clutch in my experience will slip under load in the lower gears.

    Has anyone here done a legacy clutch on their own? I would prefer to do it at home if possible.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    We've done several, they are a royal PITA. We send that work out to anther suby shop due to it being such a PITA. One of the hardest parts is to split the trans from the block, can be a real bear at times.

    -mike
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