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1982 volvo running too rich

dvanryndvanryn Posts: 1
edited March 19 in Volvo
I am a 240 nutt, I am actually an ex volvo mechanic and I am looking for an fuel pressure guage for an cis injection. Was wandering if any body had one for sale. My 240 is stalling at idle and I have tried to adjust fuel mixture but it is stuck in open loop and I am using about a tank of gas every 3 days. I think it is either the warm up regulator or the fuel injectors leaking but need guage to confirm. Everybody who I know from the feild has on but with missing peices and this fuel press guage is expensive.Please e-mail me at davidvanryn@sbcglobal.net or just answer the forum.

Comments

  • I see posts all over the net about techs wanting to use a gauge....if I only had the gauge.
    "Expensive", thats always the problem. And too, If somebody else has one it is ALWAYS missing parts. You know, come to think of it, it's always some Mechanic "friend", with a busy shop, thats missing the parts.... Dont they use this stuff?
    Well, I hate to barrow tools. I will not do it if I can avoid it. So, I did some search. It's not the gauge that costs so much. A basic fuel Pressure Test Kit could run about $80. But it has, like, one line and fitting, and it wont fit your Volvo. "you need the MASTER KIT", some sales guy said. Y ah, that will set you back about $400, and that is a deal.

    OK, in a nutshell. I found a quality gauge that came along with some other little part or two attached. Under $40 at Sears. All I needed after that was three lengths of pressure line (you can do your own math for the flow dynamics), some threaded fittings for the ends, Gosh, a relief valve, a tee, a little on/off roller type valve, and some fittings. Total cost, about $75, but I had to have the pretty parts.....otherwise, in a real emergency I would use some old injector lines or something.

    Yah, get the specs on any part and index that sucker against big rig parts suppliers, manufacturers Whatever.
  • I see posts all over the net about techs wanting to use a gauge....if I only had the gauge.
    "Expensive", thats always the problem. And too, If somebody else has one it is ALWAYS missing parts. You know, come to think of it, it's always some Mechanic "friend", with a busy shop, thats missing the parts.... Dont they use this stuff?
    Well, I hate to barrow tools. I will not do it if I can avoid it. So, I did some search. It's not the gauge that costs so much. A basic fuel Pressure Test Kit could run about $80. But it has, like, one line and fitting, and it wont fit your Volvo. "you need the MASTER KIT", some sales guy said. Y ah, that will set you back about $400, and that is a deal.

    OK, in a nutshell. I found a quality gauge that came along with some other little part or two attached. Under $40 at Sears. All I needed after that was three lengths of pressure line (you can do your own math for the flow dynamics), some threaded fittings for the ends, Gosh, a relief valve, a tee, a little on/off roller type valve, and some fittings. Total cost, about $75, but I had to have the pretty parts.....otherwise, in a real emergency I would use some old injector lines or something.

    Yah, get the specs on any part and index that sucker against big rig parts suppliers, manufacturers Whatever.
  • bzdadbzdad Posts: 1
    my wagon occasionally will run rough, sluggish, or even stall. the other day it just died at a stop light. checked spark, fuel pump fuse and relay all were good but still no start. So i ran a hot lead from the battery to the fuel pump and cracked open the fuel rail to make sure i was getting fuel. then i just cranked and cranked and eventually it started. so i replaced the factory lead to the fuel pump put my old relay in and the car is still running. so i have no idea how with everything being the same now as it was before it died why it's running. my confidence in a otherwise reliable vehicle has been shake. am i missing something? It's still cold in michigan and i can't be stranded with my girls in the car
  • try installing an accumulator. it provides back pressure in the fuel system. check for electrical shorts, esp to the air bypass valve. buy a shotgun and teach that car a lesson it will never forget.
  • Please get sandpaper and electrical cleaner and clear all contacts of corrosion,oil, or soap residue. Your car is old, and those contacts are too. please remember to clean all fuse holder contacts and give them a "pinch" to tighten them back up a little.
    I love my old brick but it's designers must not have accounted for just how long it could last. My tail lights (brakes,reverse,driving) all act up due to corrosion etc.
    Also consider replacing your in tank pump gasket and your gas cap too, we don't know it but the 240 was designed with a pressurized tank set up which usually quits once the in tank pump seal dries up. I discovered this accidently after replacing the in tank pump. Replacing those two things will cost less than ten dollars and will extend your fuel pumps' lives. Also replace injector seals to reduce vacuum leakage, and smooth the idle.
  • An accident to my passenger side, ruined my 240 door. Consequently, I purchased a front passenger door from a junk yard. Predictably they had cut all the wires which connect to the door. I need a site where I can purchase the unique Volvo 240 plastic connectors which connect the door wires.

    Please email me directly at kevo409@yahoo.com

    Thank you,

    Kevin Mac
  • 3 possible issues:

    1. Temperature sensor is bad. Sluggish suggests the temp sensor because unless the engine knows how hot the antifreeze is circulating the engine, it doesn't know whether to permit more fuel or more oxygen, thus sluggishness. The temp sensor is located under the intake manifold, directly underneath the No. 3 cylinder. To get to it you will need a 19mm, deep socket (and very small hands). The part is only $20.

    2. The other issue could be the Air Mass Meter. The AMM is a wire. It is located directly in the middle of the AMM, which is connected to your air intake hose. You may purchase one at a reasonable cost through a junk yard.

    3. The last (and least likely) is that your in-tank or frame (main) fuel pump is going bad. However, unless you hear a pinging noise, it is most likely not the fuel pumps. On the other hand, if the car only starts out sluggish, but once warm it runs perfectly, it is most likely the temp sensor.

    Good Luck

    Kevin Mac
    kevo409@yahoo.com
This discussion has been closed.