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Chrysler Cirrus Starting/Stalling Problems

I HAVE A 97 CHRYSLER CIRRUS AND IT WON'T START. IT'S SPINNING BUT WON'T CRANK. I HAVE BEEN TOLD THAT I NEED TO REPLACE THE COIL PACK BUT WHEN I CALL TO PRICE ONE THEY SAY THAT CAR HAVE A DISTRIBUTOR. I WAS WANTING TO KNOW IF IT HAVE A COIL PACK OR A DISTRIBUTOR?
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Comments

  • robinhen2robinhen2 Posts: 1
    We have a '97 Cirrus. It has been a great car, (220,000 miles as of today). The 1st fact which you need is your engine type - is it a 4-cylinder or a 6-cylinder? I have a '97 with the 6. THE 6 HAS A DISTRIBUTOR. Also important: the Haynes repair manual from Autozone is money well spent.
  • :mad: i have a 98 cirrus LXi and it has 186k miles, it has been running fine, except for the last few months... it would randomly die on me, i hd replaced the fuel pump filter and all the relays, and finaly i had a friend with an expencive diag comp come help me see what was wrong, and it threw a code- the crankshaft sensor had malfunctioned... but with the v-6 the camshaft sensor should have picked up the slack, however it was tripping my ASD, and thus killing my injection, so if you run into this problem- get a good service manual ($90) and dont go cheap with the diag equip. it will save you a lot of hastle in the long run- if you have a friend that has a good computer diag unit ask if they would diag it for you- i had gotten the car for free, and have put a relitively small amount of $$$ into it as others have, but i am on a seriously tight budget, (over $250 for the fuel pump and filter, $20 for new relays, $160 for a cruddy diag computer, $90 for the service manual) i have so far done all the work myself which has helped keep the costs down... near tears of frustration many times... but the car is a good vehicle i had just replaced the wrong parts... :D
  • My 95 Cirrus engine dies either while driving or in park, no warning just shuts down. Sometimes it will start right back up, other times could take a day.
    I have also had the car shift into 1st gear while driving, cannot shift out unless I turn off and restart.
    Replaced fuel filter, pump and distributor and did not help.
    Any suggestions - PLEASE!!!
  • A little confused by message, having similar problem, car dies whenever sometimes starts right away other times it takes 5 min to a day. Replaced fuel filter and pump and distributor - no help. Car also will down shift into 1st gear, not frequently, need to turn off and restart to work properly.
    Any suggestions, have over $600 in repairs already.

    Thanks
    Rick
  • i havent run into that problem on my car, and my issue was never solved in 5 min, or even a day... but it sounds like the fuel stops going into the engine or its not sparking... i suggest that you get the service manual from Chrysler and look up the diag for the fuel system. i dfinally had to dish oiut the $90 for the book but it was really worth it... a specific chiltons or haynes manuals will generally suffice... they will telll you how to diag/troubleshoot your issues with the starting/dieing... as for the transmissions i have heard that they are very fragile and that the maintanince should be done regularly... im not an expert but looking to help people not go broke lke i did...
    sorry i couldnt be of more help...

    jafender
  • Have you been able to get any more answers to your car problem. I have a 95 as well and I've recently ran into similar problems. My car will start, but up until 40 mph it's been choking like it's going to stall out on me. I've had three different mechanics look at it and since the diagnostic tests aren't returning any codes, they don't know what to do. IF ANYONE CAN HELP, PLEASE DO! I had my distributor and cap changed out last year, I'm not sure of the brand so I wonder if it has to do with the recall on the Cirrus and I also had the fuel pump, etc done last year (in the spring time I believe.) The day this all started I lost the power to my radio and clock light. I also was experiencing my dashboard lights going out, but I've heard mixed reviews about that even having to do with the larger problem at hand. The car only has 60 thousand miles on it, it'll be a shame if all the car experts of the world are stumped by this car.
  • I recently bought a used 97 Cirrus. Car dies while driving and sitting at stop light, not all the time but getting worse. Check Engine light on and went to Auto Zone and code came up Intake Air Sensor, replaced that. Light still on, ran again, Mass Air Flow Sensor, didn't do anything about that but decided to run codes again, now fan relay malfunctioning, voltage low. Possible cause ECM, and several other things. Was getting sick of all the different readings. In the mean time I decided I would take it to Pep Boys for computer diagnostic. Fan relay showed up, abieant temp and motor temp both ran up to 150 degrees and motor shut off. Was told by Pep Boys that when I replaced the IAP that the computer should have been flashed (reset). Well they said they couldnt reset it that I needed to take it to the Chrysler dealer. After diagnostic from them and fixing several things bill ran $217. So when I paid and left and went to Chrysler dealer they now want me to put it on their diagnositc computer and a flash will cost $99 and the diagnostics $99. Then the service mgr. said it doesn't need to be reset. So now Im at a loss as to what to do, especially since I can't fork over $$$ after $$$ and still not get fixed. If I took the car back to car lot would lose my down payment, not sure if I should continue to spend money or just soak up my loss of the $700 total Ive spent on it and live iwth it. Any ideas?

    :mad: :cry: :sick: :lemon: :lemon:
  • Got my Cirrus from an auction resently so I don't know its history but I've got the same problem you do. Car had flucuation in RPM periodicly when driving or at idle but there was no service engine light until 1 day it had a fluctuation and stalled will driving and after that episode the perverbial light came on. There's something very strainge going on because when the flucuation happens (which could be at first start or after being driven for a while) the check engine light will go off for a second and then come back on. The kicker is the other night when stuck in traffic it happened again and the the check battery light came on. There has been a increase in the episodes of flucuating RPMs and get this, now when it happens not only will the check engine light go off the check battery light will go off and the both come back on. That's not all....now the RPMs constantly flucuate when at idle.
    AutoZone did a ckeck and there are 4 codes, p1493 battery tempature sensor (never heard of such), p0117 engine coolant temp sensor, p0112 intake air temp sensor (I too replaced it and the code won't clear) and p1496 5 volt supply voltage low condition which references the input sensors of the onboard computer. I really like the car other than this and wouldn't mind putting a little $ into it since it only has 79500 miles on it but I want to put only what's needed. Any advise would really help!!! p.s. also the coolant sensor or relay swith is coded and my fan constantly runs and my cage has malfuncytioned. I hope the computer hasn't went bad!!
  • cyoakum, i went to firestone where i've been doing business for a while and they did a diagnosis (99.00) and found out that all the codes are all inline with each other and that the is a short somewhere in the wiring harness and it could be a pinched wire. Norm said that all of the sensors are working which indicates current is getting to them but that the return notice to the computer is not being received therefore the light remains on and the codes keep setting immediately after they are reset. He pulled all of the wiring diagrams and traced the patterns to find out what he did but would need to pull out the harness and try to pattern it and find the short and that could take from 3-6 hours (83.00hr) depending on how fast he can find it. Also, there is more than a 50-50 chance that now that there are multiple codes that portion of the computer that handles these sensors may of been fried. At looking at what Norm was telling and showing me I tend to believe him because it looks like someone previously tried to locate the problem (hire harness cut open, wire coating peeled in some places) but they couldn't. For me i'm going to the junkyard to find what looks like a good wiring harnes as the dealer wants to charge 800.00 for it and if that resolves the problem good and if i need the computer i may go the same rount or maybe get it from autozone for 300.00. All your symptomes and mine appear to be closely related although my MAS is not flashing it is in line with the rest. If you find anything out please let me know and I will do the same.
  • this car stalls for any or no reason. it has stalled while on the highway and while parked in the driveway. sometimes it runs for hours, other times only minutes. the fuel filter has been changed, the throttle position indicator has been changed, the engine computer has been changed, plug wires, spark plugs, egr valve, and countless other items. former blogs suggest that the problem may be related to MAF or O2 sensor. it has been brought to my attention that this model cirrus does not have a mass air flow sensor. I have bought replacement O2 sensors for it, but the dude at the auto parts store said he doubts very much that this will fix the problem. hopefully someone in your circles can help out with this. i am at wit's end. a check engine light or error code would help, but no such luck, as no lights come on.
  • i have a six cylinder chrysler cirrus that has around 150,000 km on it and its been running great up until about 2 months ago. About every three weeks or so, the car battery wears out without leaving the lights on or draining the battery at all, ive taken it to a mechanic and they just assume that the lights were left on. nobody can seem to figure anything out. can anybody help?
  • cyoakumcyoakum Posts: 3
    Join the crowd. I have a 97 Cirrus that is doing the exact same thing and changed all sorts of sensors. Finally I took it to a repairman and he has said its the ECM (computer), I have not replaced it yet, but will be doing so very very soon. The Chrysler dealer wants $388 for one and a local parts place wants $170. Other than that the car runs great, I just hate to replace the ECM and it not be the problem. That scares me since, I already had it at one repairman and they said they changed the ECM 2 different times, but.....they were out of cars from a junk yard too. If you figure it out let me know please, I hate to pay for the new computer when it could possibly not be it. But the last guy did put it on the diagnostics machine twice...Good luck.....I would love to hear from anyone else out there that might have had the same problem too. :cry:
  • we finally got this problem fixed. We had changed out the ECM, and it was not the issue. Spent 125.00 for no reason!!!. That brought the total tally up to over 1000.00. What we discovered was the Cam Shaft sensor had gone bad. That part cost 70.00 at AutoZone. When installed, the stalling issue was resolved (or so it seems at this point). We have run the car for a total of about 3 hours with no problem. Before, it was stalling within about 15 to 20 minutes.
  • aseel513aseel513 Posts: 3
    What is the ASD? I have a 98 (6 cylinder) and it's been doing everything mentioned on this site and then some. I've replaced the throttle position and oxygen sensors as well as idle air valve and now the check engine light is back on! I'm willing to replace camshaft/crankshaft, but I need to know what the ASD is. Thanks for posting this information as I am ready to drive this car off of a cliff!
  • cyoakumcyoakum Posts: 3
    Cliff heck, we need Death Valley high steep mtns........I wish just one time I could have a car that is not such a pain in the rear.....please if you fix it let me know what you did. :lemon:
  • If it's a V6 they don't have a coil pack, it only has a distributor which will run you about $225.00 at Advanced Auto. I think personally it's the timing belt, i would have that checked.
  • bajhomebajhome Posts: 1
    Please confirm the Cam Shaft was the solution to your stalling problems. I am having the same problem. Also, I am hearing a pop coming from underneath the car every time I turn it off. It sounds like something underneath has gotten too hot and the noise is the metal expanding. Any suggestions?
  • I have a 2000 chrysler cirrus lxi 2.5L 6cyl. I was driving on the freeway yesterday at about 70 mph in Las Vegas traffic when out of the blue the engine on the car died. I (fortunately) was able to pull over to the side of the road, which was not an easy task as I was coasting. I waited for a few min and attempted to restart the car, but when I turn the key the engine will crank it just wont turn over. I finally had to have the car towed back to my house. It has been almost 24 hrs since this happened and the car still wont start. There was no warning and the car didn't sputter or make any sounds that something might possibly be wrong it just died. I'm so confused as to what could possibly have cause this. If there is anyone out there that might know what would have cause this to happen please let me know. As are a lot of people right now I am on a very tight budget so if this is something that I can fix myself then I would like to try to go that route first before I spend hundreds of dollars on taking the car to a repair shop here, not to mention it is very hard to find an honest repair shop in the Las Vegas Valley. I hope someone out there reads this and can offer me some advise as to what to do. :confuse:
  • I have a 1998 Chrysler Cirrus lxi which died suddenly on my way to work this week.
    I have checked the coil and distributor with an ohmmeter and everything checks out. I can hear the fuel pump kick in when I turn on the ignition key, and have tested absolutely everything with no spark yet to the engine. 266 000 kms, no problems whatsoever and now sudden death. I will replace a few things in an effort to resolve this issue and post if anything works.

    nuts,
    - Wally
  • I had a mobile mechanic come out to my house and he replaced the curcuit that the fuel pump relay fuse plugs into. this seemed to fix the problem, but i was on my way back home from california and the car started blowing fuses left and right. I probably went through over 30 fuses just to get the car back to Las Vegas. It sounds like when the curcuit was wired it wasn't wired correctly, but the guy was just here yesterday and he says everything checks out fine. I would check the fuel pump relay fuse. Your curcuit could have blown just like mine did.
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