Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Chrysler Cirrus Starting/Stalling Problems



  • Tell me about it. I baught my 95 cheap cuz I was out of work but it's turning into a monry pit. The first time I sent it to a shop right away They said oil was leaking from my spark plugs and causing a conduit for crossfire which destroyed my distributer. I got one from a salvage yard which my shop bench tested a found it was bad. $1,200.00 later new plugs, wires, and gaskets and my car breaks again. I changed gaskets and used dialectric grease done the work myself. Seemed to work for a while but the car died again. I poured 2 gal of water over the hot engine waited 5 minutes and the car started but ran rough at first. Seems to be a heat problem. After further insp. the cooling fans were not coming on. I put in freeon and the fans came on only when AC is on. I changed Coolant sensor and fan work good. The car still stalls. I checked thermostat and water pump, all good. The problem is definately eletrical and I'm guessing sensor so dont go buying computers I'll try cam shaft sensor and will get back to ya. Tommy
  • PLEASE HELPOk I have 99' Chrysler cirrus, that i have just replaced the crank shaft position sensor, idle air control, and EGR valve, and its still not fixed. The rpms will go crazy, oil light & cruise control light comes on, and it will stall, but sometimes it will run for and hour or two with no problems but other times its irraitic..I have heard it may be plugs/wires, distubotor cap, coil pack,cam sensor,and battery(just bought a new battery).. Tired of the guessing game.. Ready to junk this POS!!! Any suggestions, would be greatly apprecitated..
    2 hours ago - 4 days left to
  • Well i took my 99' Chrysler Cirrus to the dealership and found out that the crank postion sensor, was a bad one and that i have oil leaking down my distubutor shaft, replacing that sensor has takin care of some of the problem, but my oil light still comes on along with service engine soon light..taking back to the dealer Monday.. :mad:
  • 1998 Cirrus V6. 48,000 miles. No problems until now. Pulled into garage one night and won't start next day. No Spark. No codes set with test from Actron tester. Check all fuses. All OK. ASD voltage is correct. ASD relay checks OK with ohm meter. Replaced distributer with remanfactured. Still won't start. Testing crankshaft position sensor. 8 volts on unit (Orange wire) but no fluctuating voltage on output of sensor (Grey/Black wire). Bad sensor?? ($72.00 to buy) and look like a real bear to change. Could it be ECM?
  • Have you checked the fuel pump? (I have a '97 V6 with 77,000 and it went out recently)...
  • 1997 V6 - 77,000 miles.
    It has been stalling mostly when I come up to a light or stop sign, coasting in general.
    So far I have replaced:
    distributor cap, spark plugs, wires, CAM sensor, Crankshaft Sensor (is that the same?), both belts, MAP sensor, my fuel pump was replace 10 months ago...

    What is next? I have heard maybe the idle air flow sensor? I know this is a common problem...has anything helped?
  • I determined that the ASD relay was not engaging. The relay itself was good. I determined that the terminal 85 (a Dk. Blue /violet wire had the same voltage as terminal 30 the supply. That means that there was not a complete circuit to ground to energize the ASD relay. I pulled the large connector on the top and towards the front of the car on the PCM and found the Dk. Blue/violet wire and cut it about 3 " from the plug. I then grounded the end that goes to the ASD relay. The relay engaged, and I had voltage to the ignition coil primary. Upon cranking I did see several flashes on my spark plug tester, but still will not start. It looks like the PCM is not grounding the ASD relay coil. If the PCM is not supplying a complete circuit for the ASD relay, it's likely not doing other things. Going to order a PCM. Will advise.
  • we have a 98 cirrus that is just over 2 yrs old now. Its been in the shop more than my driveway. We bought it used from a small garage and for some DUMB reason we keep bringing it to that shop for repairs. It was in the shop 7 times in a yr and a half. The check engine light was on steady for almost a year .. LOL good fn car eh? Anyhow, after changing several sensors and other parts with NO relief ... we finally had a pvt guy with good diagnostics check it out for a few days... replaces a map sensor ( thats what it sounded like he was saying ) its been stall free ( touch wood) for 5 months now. Thats the longest time so far ... sadly.. its in the shop again right now again, for a week again ... the stick shift cable broke, which we think the mechanic broke during one of his repairs and finally just snapped. this is our car from hell and we have now spent more for repairs than what the car cost us. We are in wayyyyyyy too deep to do anything but keep on repairing it, Eventually all the parts will be new anyhow. Anyhow... check that map sensor as a possible cure to the stalling. Its really scarey to have it stall while moving.
  • i'd got this 96 cirrus from my brother it has a problem it seems to to be dying when i'm sitting at stop lights check the fuel pump it o.k had the the map sensor my brother had it tune up not sure if he change the disturbutor or not it seems to do it more while it cold or something like that sometimes it feels like it kinda hestitates while driving awhile so if anybody got any ideas what to do next like to hear from you
  • Ok so the car is still at a Chrysler mechanic.. It now has more problems then before.. It was misfiring on 5 outa six cylinders now its 6 outta 6.. i have replaced the idle air control and egr valve now 2 xs, new distributor, new distributor cap, wires and plugs.. So they called me the other day and ECU (i think thats right) and that it was 1,500.00.. well needless to say i told them i wasnt buying one right now and if they had a way to try it before i buy it to make sure that is it, next day they called said its not it.. their new motive is that somethings wrong with the wireing..I have already spent well over 1200 and replaced parts that didnt need to be replaced. i will let you know as soon as i find anything else out
  • I have a 97 Chrysler Cirrus with the 2.5L V6. I have had some problems with it. It has been stalling for a while now, as well as the check engine light being on. I was driving it yesterday and it just died while driving 30mph. THe engine died and I coasted it to the side of the road. For the first little bit the gauges stuck at 30mph and 2k rpm. I am a horrible mechanic and am hoping to figure out what the problem is. If anyone can help me out I would really appreciate it.
  • Came home today and pulled into the garage to clean out the interior. Was parked for mabe an hour. Went to move the car out and it will not start. At first it started but seemed to be starved for fuel, Now it will turn over forever but will not fire. Any ideas?
  • I read in one of your posts that you had a cirrus that was blowing a number of fuses. The Fuel pump fuse. I have a 99 cirrus which is blowing a 20 amp fuse that is labeled Fuel and Ignition.

    Just curious if you ever resolved what was making your blow?

    Mine had been pretty intermittent. it had blown three times in 7 months, but then blew three in one days with very little car movement between them. I suspect something is causing and intermittent short but I'm not sure where to look first.

    I have been fortunate in that I had installed a remote car starter which ends up by passing the blown fuse as long as I but the key into the on position first. This allows me to move the car or drive a short distance when it has happened. But I can't use the brake or the auto start shuts off. Any input would be appreciated.
  • Ok- I think I've got it- my check engine light had been on for months and my car always stalled. I changed my EGR valve and MAP sensor, as I had the codes "Bank 1 & 2- system too lean" and "manufacter controlled fuel and air metering". Anyway, the shop said it was my EGR valve that was bad, but in reading other posts, it didn't help when other people changed their EGR valve. So, I bought a new EGR valve AND a MAP sensor (I read this helped someone else)and had them both replaced. So far so good!!!! It's been since Wednesday (2/24) and my engine light is off and she no longer cuts off (knock on wood). Give it a try and I'll keep ya'll posted! :) :surprise:
  • mth321mth321 Posts: 1
    2000 2.4 DOHC Cirrus. The other night it started running rough. Acted like bad fuel(water) or bad fuel pump. It then shut down wouldn't run. Left sit over night in parking lot. Came back next morning. Started up and would run for a minute and a half, run rough again and shut down. Took home. No check engine light. Ran test on fuel pump. Low pressure. Replaced fuel pump, Fuel and filter. Once again would start, run a minute, run rough and shut down. Ran OBD code reader on. Came up code PO340 camshaft sensor error, and a couple transmission codes(PO700 and PO725). Replace cam sensor with new, cleared codes, still no check engine light. Now, would not run at all. With key on, could hear relays for fuel pump and fuel injectors rapidly kicking on and off. Checked for fire at coil pack. No fire. Ran code reader on again, code PO340 again, still no check engine light. Replaced coil, still no fire. Running out of parts to replace, replaced crankshaft sensor, cleared code, and fired right up. NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT EVER!

    If you have one that starts running rough, shuts down and no check engine light, It appears that would be a good place to start with!
  • just like the rest of you guys, my cirrus just stopped on me but more of a different story, it happened when i went to go fill up the tank and the guy filled it up with fuel 87 instead of 89 or 93(which i always get). My car would run for a whole day then decide to shut off, run for another whole day and at the same time shut off again on me while im on the high way or on a main st kind of feels like bad luck. I took it to 3 major shops they put the diagnostics to it no Code Errors and the ran fine just for them but once i would pull off it would die on me. They said most likely it wouldnt be a fuel problem cause 87 wouldnt harm especially chrysler. But i seen a post on here earlier that mabe water can be the cause to the eltrical system??? because my car did start acting up when it was raining up here in boston for the whole week straight.

    I just need somthing to start me off because mechanics will get you and i think my problem might be an easy fix, mabe the fuel filter needs to be cleaned , or new fuel pump relay??? somthing plz help :confuse:
  • chillie799chillie799 Posts: 2
    it will start up but when i shut it off it wont start up until it cools down please help
  • ok i took it to the shop and had the timing belt pully and belt changed and water pump changed and cam sincer changed and i got it home and it worked good for 2 days and then it shut off so i got it back up to the shop and they done a test and it read no bad codes then it shut off the machine so they changed the oxygen sencer and it ran good for a day and did it again and now it will run and as soon as you turn it off it wont start until it kools down it is not over heating when it kools down it starts right up but at night time it runs really good please help me
  • aseel513aseel513 Posts: 3
    I changed my MAP sensor and my EGR Valve back in March and she hasn't cut off or stalled at all since then. Now I've recently had my distributor and spark plugs replaced. She's running well, but she sputters at take-off. Not sure what that is- was told she's getting too much air, but try the EGR Valve, distributor and MAP sensor- those worked overall for me. Good luck because these cars TRULY suck and are a pain in the A$$ and wallet to fix! :sick:
  • Did you ever find out what was wrong? My car is doing the same thing.
Sign In or Register to comment.