Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Check Engine light

1356756

Comments

  • mstan1mstan1 Posts: 9
    Well, it's been about 30 cold starts after the
    "check engine" light went on, and the computer did reset itself and the light's off.(just like the mechanic said)I filled up the car today and also made sure I turned the cap at least 3 clicks and no light. The car is running fine.I hope nothing occurs in the future. By the way, I noticed that alot of problems are posted for '98 Kia. Was there an improvement or change in '99?
  • preganpregan Posts: 1
    i have the same problem with my 1995 maxima,after
    fueling up with engine running @ a cheap fuel
    station.did u fix ur problem? im going to try
    fuel additive and better octave gasoline.
  • butch11butch11 Posts: 153
    Had a check engine light illuminate on 97 accord with 73K. Used a honda shop and Haynes manual to decode the light-it was check tranny. Replaced the tranny fluid (the owners manual says every 90K-was told by Honda mechanics to do it at 30K)and reset the light by pulling out #10 fuse and no problems.

    Anybody know where one can get the diagnostic module for a laptop.
  • gusgus Posts: 254
    I'm not sure that there's a direct interface for a laptop yet, is there?
  • The check engine light came on on my mom's 89 Voyager. Figured it was the 02 sensor so changed that. Forgot to tell the service guy to reset the light. Anyone know how to reset the light on an 89 Voyager/Caravan? Thanks!
  • rjbsabrjbsab Posts: 4
    I wrote re: "the check engine light" in my 97 explorer. Finally took it in and found out it was covered under warranty for 3 years, so they fixed it free of charge. I asked them if there was a way to reset the light on my own and I was told that they use a specific machine to do it. Just thought I would pass this along.
  • I'll bet that 'specific machine' is the mechanics index finger.
  • tac3tac3 Posts: 1
    I have a 1994 grand am with about 96,000 miles on it. the engine service light comes on intermittently at idle. I have replaced the engine idle speed sensor and the E.C.M. to no avail. any suggestions what to do next?
  • Hello All,

    I have a 99 Chevy Prizm, only had it one month, its got 800 miles and has been great, last night I started the car at a friend's house on my way home, it was night time, pretty cool for Texas, about 88 outside so no extreme temperatures...The car had only been sitting out there for about 20 minutes, and on the drive over there nothing happened, just when I started the car to come home if popped on and stayed on, I started the car in the driveway just an hour ago and as soon as it turned over the light was on. The engine runs fine, idles fine, accelerates fine, I filled it up 2 nights ago and I am sure that the gas cap is on fine, but after 2 days and it suddenly came on I can't understand why that would be a problem, and no one could have tampered with my gas cap while it was parked because my car has a remote fuel door release on the inside of the car. Someone please email me at cynthia@dallas.net if you have ANY idea why this could be happening, I mean, c'mon this is a brand new car only had it a month and the check engine light is on?????
  • I have a 95 Olds LSS with 85,000 miles. The check engine light comes on about once every 2 weeks. If I tunr the car off, then on again, the light goes out???

    The dealer just checked ou thte negine computer memeory and it shows no problems.

    I recently replaced the alternator (4th one) and the water pump.

    Any ideas?
  • I just got my 98 Chevy Blazer back from the car dealership today because my engine light went on. Found out I HAD A FAULTY GAS CAP which triggered the light. Thank God it was under warranty, because I would have been really angry to pay the $75 the dealership would have charged me to find out.
  • Anyone know how to reset a 97 Mercury Sable check engine light?
    Thanks
  • I have a 95 Ford Windstar with a check engine light on since April 1999. I have an extended warranty which would not cover this because it's related to emissions. The mechanic says it's the OBD-2 system with 4 oxy sensors. He would start with replacing them one at a time for about $100 each. Then he said to just drive it until it's time for a somg check and then I must do the repair or I won't pass the smog check.

    Can I reset the check engine and get a smog check before the light comes back on or will it fail the check anyway? I am planning on trading this car in as soon as I can get a Honda Odyssey, however, that may not be before I have to renew my license.

    Can I reset the check engine light myself and should I try a new gas cap (the mechanic said they checked that out but that code did not come on).

    HELP.
  • disconnect battery neg side for 1 minute and reconnect but light will come back on soon if there is still a problem in the system
  • Katsohis, Thanks for the help. It's now been disconnected for 12 hours and two driving trips and is off for the moment. I wonder if it will pass smog?
  • butch11butch11 Posts: 153
    The idiots at the smog check facility only look at their machines. You might pass the check-make certain the engine is at normal operating temperature and let it idle while waiting-do not shut it off-this will cause unburned gas to accumulate and can cause you to fail the test. If you have to replace the sensors-check at some aftermarket parts store like Pep Boys or someplace like that. Will bet the street price for those sensors is much less than $100 a pop. Buy yourself a copy of a Haynes repair manual that applies to your vehicle or check out one from the local library. Changing these things can be a snap. Good luck
  • Thanks for the tip about getting rid of the "check engine" light. I have a 99 Honda Accord, and forgot to tighten the gas cap. I was driving and the light when on, and I completely got worried. I thought maybe the engine oil was low or the radiator was dry, and that it might be an emergency. When I finally figured out that it was just a loose gas cap, I tightened it. But the light would not go out! The jerks at the Honda dealership refused to re-set it, saying I had to set up an appointment 3 days in advance, and wait at least 2-3 hours while they re-set it. Honda warranty service is horrible! I took the tip of removing the negative battery lead for a minute, and the whole problem went away! No help from the Honda Dealer!
  • floridianfloridian Posts: 219
    mitchflorida, tell us what dealer that was so we can avoid them. Not in Ocala I hope.

    Floridian too.
  • i freaked first time my check engine light went on. over time, i realized that the light went on at pretty specific mileage intervals-36k(coincidentally when the warranty expired) 70k 100k etc. unless performance, gas mileage or anything else is dramatically wrong, i wouldn't worry about it. call the dealer and ask where the reset switch is located. mine is right under the dash and very easy to switch off.(geo tracker)
  • nnorthnnorth Posts: 4
    My 1995 Corolla wagon has been mechanically and otherwise perfect for 79K miles but at appx. 65K the "Brake" indicator light began coming on when:

    1) I shift from 2nd to 3rd (or 3rd to 4th)
    2) the outside temperature was colder than would be for the season

    After a mile or so, the light would go out. Of course I had the brakes checked right away (and checked all brake lights myself) but there are no problems. It goes off as it should when I release the parking brake and ironically, as I brake the car to a stop. It seems like it could just be a sensor problem and because all your posts are so similar, I decided to post here.

    I've ignored the problem for almost a year and now that it has become more consistent (staying on longer, coming on occasionally after going off) I'll probably let a dealer have a go at it. Still, its pattern of lighting upon a certain combination of acceleration and temperature, plus my verified-OK brakes makes me believe it's a faulty sensor that needs to be replaced, and nothing to do with the brake system.

    I would like to have more substantial evidence of that before going to the dealer - I'm very unimpressed with Toyota dealer service in Eastern MA and have instead gone to private mechanics with all four of my Toyotas. I just don't think my mechanic will be able to easily pinpoint this problem, but if I can suggest a solution, he will certainly try it. Any ideas?
  • gusgus Posts: 254
    By "sensor" I presume you mean your brake fluid sensor, located in the master cylinder, right? Your first step should be to check your brake fluid. If it's full, then you have other problems.

    Gus
    Conference Host
  • Having a "check engine light" problem w/ my 96 subaru legacy. It came on, the dealer replaced a spark plug. It came on again, he replaced wires. It keeps coming back, they keep guessing, I keep paying.(it was 100 miles out of warantee when the problem started) Now they say that the problem is the cylinder cover is defective: they want $700.00 for the part plus labor. I love subarus, but this is bleeding me dry, so I'm going to trade it in on a toyota. Anyone have any last minute suggestions on what else the problem may be? Any history of similar problems with subarus? Help!
  • vincapvincap Posts: 1
    I have a 97 Jetta GT with approximately 68k miles. Yesterday evening I started the car (it was around cold around 30F), it ran rough for a few minutes, the check engine light came on and after it warmed up it ran fine. This is the third time this has happened over the three years i have owned the car. Once i took it to the dealer and he said nothing was wrong. The second time it happened it stayed on for a week and then wnet out. I am in the process of selling the car and would like to now how to reset it. I'm sure there is nothing wrong with the car because it is running fine. Has anybody had similar problems with the vw 4cyl and does anybody know how to reset it?
  • just a thought, the oxygen sensor could be the culprit. When they changed the plug and wires, it could have made a difference in spark when burning the fuel to shut the light off.....
    I'm no mechanic, but you should be able to replace the O2 sensor yourself for less than 100 bucks.
  • VW used to have set mileages when the oxygen sensor would go on so you had to take it to the shop and get it serviced. They would check the emissions, etc and press a little button near the firewall on the driver's side under the hood. It was not deep at all in the engine. I'm not sure if this is still the case but good luck!
  • I have an '87 Accord that the PGM FI light
    comes on about 10 minutes after starting
    and has stalled out a couple times. My
    mechanic couldn't fiqure it out and recommended
    taking it to a dealer, does anyone know if
    there is any diagnostic software out there
    for a computer to interface with the ECU.
    Or any other suggestions other than the dealer.
    Thanks
  • I have a 93 Chevy S-10 pick-up with a 2.5L 4 cyl. engine and a manual 5 speed transmission and 105,000 miles. No air conditioning, power steering or power brakes. It's as basic as they come. The problem I am having is the "Service Engine Light" comes on intermittently. The E.C.M. throws a code indicating the M.A.T. sensor is bad. I have replaced this sensor and my mechanic suggested I also replace the M.A.P. sensor. After replacing both sensors the light still comes on and when checked throws the same code "25", the only code being thrown. After more diognostic testing my mechanic suggested the E.M.C. unit may be faulty, so I had him replace that. The problem still exists. The light comes on intemittently and when it does the engine runs rough with reduced power. I am also experiencing terrible gas milage. In my frustration I took the vehicle to my local Chevrolet dealer service department. I was told the same thing by them as I was by my mschanic. The M.A.T. sensor is bad. I again had it replaced. I drove the vehicle about three miles and the light again came back on. I took it back to the dealer and was told that they can't locate the problem and was sent away with an I'm sorry. I am frustrated that I have spent so much money for repairs, some of it going towards the same replaced part and the problem still exixts. I appreciate any help I can get at this point.

    Thank you
  • This is getting to sound like a horror story. Code 25=MAT OR IAT (manifold or intake air temp.)This sensor can be tested with an ohm meter, & the circuit can be tested with a volt & ohm meter. Any mechanic who has a scan-tool should be able to read the function of this sensor with data stream information from the ECM.

    You need to find a good, reputable mechanic who is willing to diagnose the failure with out throwing parts at it.

    Some questions you may be asked to answer.
    Does the engine run poorly only when the light is on? Do you notice any black smoke coming from the tail pipe when the engine runs poorly? Has any other work been done in area of eng. or ECM location?(ign. wires, alarm inst., re-routing of wire harnesses, disturbed plugs. etc.)

    When I get this kind of problem in the shop, the first thing that I do is ask questions,(such as above). Then a visual inspection, looking for improperly routed wires, damaged wires & plugs & condition of all grounds. It is very important to check the easiest & cheapest to diagnose & fix components first. The ECM is the last item considered for replacement. I find, many times, that a bad ground or defective plug can cause what would seam to be a serious problem.

    Mitchell manuals supply excellent flow type diagnostic charts for all electronic engine controls. And they can be found in most any public library. All tests can be done with a volt-ohm meter. Although some tests are done more accurately with a lab-scope or oscilloscope.

    I have over simplified this process, but I hope this will give you some things to ask of a prospective repair person.
    GOOD LUCK
  • bnormannbnormann Posts: 335
    Thanks for your insight. It sounds like you run a tight shop.

    your host, Bruce
  • 0patience0patience Posts: 1,542
    williefrank,they should not be replacing any parts without finding what trouble codes are store in the ECM(if the light came on,codes will be stored)You can retrieve the codes yourself.If you want the procedure,e-mail me.Billie4,code 25.Here is a flowchart and diagram for the code 25,with an digital ohm/voltmeter the sensors can be checked.Go to this page.http://www.syty.org/d&e-code25.html
    My e-mail is truckmech@homepage.com.Let me know if you need more help.
Sign In or Register to comment.