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Check Engine light

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  • I have a very low mileage car 10000 but the CEL has been coming on for the last 5000 miles. The dealer says it's a misfire and to get better gas. When it comes on and flashing there is no misfire that i can tell. lucky its still under warranty any idea to get the dealer to fix this thing and stop blaming the gas. I have 3 other cars all Toyotas all running on the same gas just fine
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    I would ask the dealer one more time to fix the problem. Ask for the code as well, since there is no code that I know of that says "bad gas". If you he still gives you a hard time, file a complaint with the Regional manager with the code number in the letter (certified of course). The check engine light means one of the many sensors in your car is performing out of spec. Based on the code, there are diagnostic steps the technician is suppose to follow to determine the problem. Some are easy, others may require more time to figure out.
  • The code for the light was misfiring of the engine but the dealer was blaming it on the gas
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    The reason I am asking for the code number is as explained in my earlier post. Saying it is misfiring doesn't help those on this board to help you. There are a number of codes for misfires. Here's a link to another person having a misfire in an Aveo: http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20070218185756AAgLUXn&show=7

    I would call customer service and complain that your check engine light continues to come on and the dealer is not being "cooperative" in finding the answer. It would help if you had the code number when making the call. You can go to most major auto parts shop and they will read your code for free.
  • I own a 1997 volvo 850 gl with 139k mile on it, my check engine lite came on and the trans seems very sluggish now, loss of power also. Does it necessarily mean the trans is hot or has any one experienced maybe a electronic controller causing these symptoms
  • ivicaivica Posts: 34
    Just replaced my catalytic converter, what a difference to how the car performs. It drives like the day it was new, great acceleration, no sputtering or hesitation. I thought my transmission was slipping at times. Best investment in a long time.

    This has been the first real maintenance that I've done on the car 255,000 kms and still going strong. The steering and suspension are still tight.

    I bought a 3 way catalytic converter, the A Pipe that connects the exhaust manifold to the converter, oxygen sensor and all hardware and gaskets.

    Total parts from majestic were around $700.

    I paid the local muffler shop $80 to install. Honda dealer quoted over $2000 for this work.
    Only kicker is that Canadians pay about $240 for duties and taxes on top of that. So my total bill was half of what the local dealer wanted.

    Thanks to this site I saved a fortune. Not bad for a 10 year old car.

    J.
  • I took it to my trusty mechanic not the autozone guy. He explained it was the Oxygen sensor heater malfunction. Cost about $250 to replace. Been using this guy for over ten years almost exclusively.

    So I just noticed a little note on the bottom of the bill that says the "oil pan gasket seeps." He obviously did not think I needed it replaced now or he would have pointed that out to me. My question-could it possibly be a oil leak from the crank or cam seals replaced when I put in a new timing belt 6 months ago? I took it to different mechanic back then(long story), then a month later that same mechanic said the cam and crank seals were leaking and needed to be replaced. I pointed out that they had just done that and that I had heard those seals can be tricky to install correctly. They "fixed" it and said I was all good. I'm wondering if I should have my old trusty mechanic check this out next time I'm in the shop for an oil change and just monitor my oil levels until then. What do you all think?
  • ivicaivica Posts: 34
    keep in mind for the futrue, you can get OEM parts from Majestic honda. I just purchased an oxygen sensor for around $90. They are easy to install.
  • Is Majestic in the states? My mechanic told me Honda wanted over $200 for one so he got aftermarket. I had asked my brother earlier if he could do a quick install and he said he needed a lift or it would be too difficult. Maybe my brother is just lazy ;)

    Am I right that the oil pan gasket leak may be a engine seal leak instead?
  • ivicaivica Posts: 34
    yes, www.majestichonda.com , great people to deal with. Only catch is if you are from Canada, they add about 20% to the order for taxes and duties. The price is still great for OEM parts.

    good luck.
  • I have a 2000 Olds Intrigue with 120,000 miles, the cel light came on and the car will not start now. I bought a code reader, the codes I get are PO 335 crankshaft position sensor malfunction, and PO340 camshaft position sensor malfunction. Will these keep it from starting? , the starter and battery are good, I checked them.
    Thanks for any help!
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    absolutely. The crankshaft sensor detects where the crank is (which has all of the pistons connected to it), and the camshaft sensor detects and reports on the valves opening and closing the intake valves and exhaust valves of the cylinders.

    Either one of those would cause your engine not to start.
  • Thank You! I thought so, Now my next problem, I heard the crankshaft sensor is hard to get to, I saw a picture of it at Auto Zone.com so I know what they look like, do you think they will show me where it is located along with the camshaft sensor when I buy them?
    Thanks Again!
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I think it's a little troubling, that you have two different sensors being called out. I don't know your vehicle, but does it have a timing belt that is normally replaced as a maintenance item? (It may have a timing chain, and if so not necessary). The timing belt, connects the crankshaft rotations to the camshaft rotations. I don't know what kind of tools you have already, but you might want to do a compression test on a couple of the cylinders, to make sure the timing belt is still doing it's job and is shutting and opening the valves in concert with the piston movement. Assuming that is okay, then go ahead with the sensor changes.

    If you don't have compression, you have much bigger problems than sensors.
  • lucas8lucas8 Posts: 15
    My 1999 kia sephia's check engine light produced the P0422 code which is defined as "catalyst efficiency low - bank 1." The probable causes listed on the Autozone printout are:
    1) Catalytic converter defective (Failure possibly due to #2, 3 or 4).
    2) Engine misfire or running condition.
    3) Large vacuum leak.
    4) Engine oil leakage into exhaust-valve guide seals, piston rings.

    This light came on with the same code a couple weeks ago, and then turned off in a couple days, and now it's back. No vacuum leak's apparent, and I'm not noticing any change in the engine's running that could suggest an engine misfire. I'm not noticing any off-colored smoke coming from the exhaust, and I haven't been losing any substantial oil. So how would I check to see which one it is?
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    replacing these sensors on the Intrigue are pretty common. I have read in other forums of people having to replace both at the same time. Your explanation makes me wonder if there is something else going on in the engine that causes the failure of both sensors at the same time.

    BTW, the engine does have a timing chain.
  • lucas8lucas8 Posts: 15
    Update: I drained some oil from the engine which either caused the deillimunation (a word?) or coincided with the check engine light not illuminating this time around. 30 miles and three starts later, it returned. The code was the same for the third time in three weeks. Perhaps I'm imagining it, but the engine does feel like it's lagging; I consider it as possibly being my imagination because of the intermittent nature of the light's illuminating leading to the possibility of simply a faulty wire. To that end, where would I start looking for the offending wire? Moreover, would a defective oxygen sensor necessarily say so on the code readout? Autozone quoted me $200 for the cat (I know it's available cheaper online, but what sites can I trust?), and I don't want to spend that kind of money until that's what it certainly is.
  • lucas8lucas8 Posts: 15
    When you say sensors, do you mean oxygen sensors? If not, then the printout and the Autozoner's explanation led me to believe it was one problem or another (oil in valve seals or malfunctioning cat), not both.
    What does the engine's having a timing belt have to do with it?
  • A month ago my car battery died, got it replaced and all was good for a while. Then it started to "slip" every now and then when I tried to start it. I would turn it over and I could hear it spin but the engine wouldn't crank, then the second time I tried it, it would start no problem. This has been increasing in frequency the last few weeks.
    Now this past weekend, when I decelerate to come to a stop it feels like it jerks a little when the transmission switches to its lowest gear (thats the best way I can describe it), and sometimes the "service engine soon" light comes on but usually just briefly until I accelerate again and then it goes away. Sometimes when I am idling the engine sounds like it is about to cut out, almost like it is sputtering along, but this goes away when I hit the gas pedal. at times, when it is idling, the service engine light comes on. When it is doing this the car definitely gets louder (with the sputtering..). I'd really appreciate suggestions and more information about what the possible problem could be. Also, since the car is 20 years old, I'd like to get a best guess on how much the repairs might be for this. Obviously I don't want to spend to much $$ on this car. Its done this a few times before in the past (usually every couple of months or so) but it has usually gone away when I added a half pint or so of engine oil. But this time it doesn't seem to be working. :sick:
  • lucas8lucas8 Posts: 15
    oops, thought you were responding to my post.
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