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Hyundai Santa Fe Electrical Problems

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Comments

  • Probably a bad serpentine belt, one that has hardened over time. Not just a bad belt though, replace the belt tensioner too or the problem will come back in a short while.
  • Hi all,I bought a 2007 SF from USA and brought it here in Iraq,and since there are no dealerships in here so I am totally depending on u in this,a few days ago I noticed that my car stopped beeping the self check warning when I turn the switch to ON position(U know the routine self check before ignition)and also the AIRBAG light was on,is it related to the disappearance of the self test check beeping issue?what can I do about it?thanks for any help wish u can aid me in this :)
  • azrn222azrn222 Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Santa Fe about a year ago it starting have problems where the A/C would start turning on and off repeatedly (always when the A/C was in the off position) and the clock and radio would also turn on and off and the temperature gauge would drop all the way down. After a few times of this happening, when the center console would go crazy it started acting like it was either losing power or not getting gas and would just die while driving or backing out of my driveway. I had it looked at and a code said there was a bad sensor. At that time there were 2 sensors that were replaced, a belt, temp. gauge, spark plugs and oil change. Did not fix the problem. Started getting worse, started jerking while I was driving and would just die (always when the center console goes crazy). Had it looked at 2 more times by 2 different shops no one could find the problem. Got to the point that it would only go 5 MPH. Different shop changed the fuel pump didn't help, changed the brain didn't help, change 2 cavalier converters now drives normal speed but the center console problems are still there and still acts like it is not getting power or gas and dies (again always when the center console goes crazy). I would like to say that I am a female who does not know anything about cars and so my terminology is really poor. Any advise would be great. I have already spent alot of money trying to get it fixed and at every shop I have asked that they check the wiring in the center console but they all assure me that is not the problem.
  • Definitely the alternator-dig deep
  • I have an 07 and had the same problem and it was a bad cell in the battery, I had it replaced and all is good. I know it's not an '11 model but something to think about.
  • lagetalageta Posts: 1
    having trouble with the dash/park/brake lights continuosly blowing the fuse......works for a little while after replacing the fuse and then bang just goes again and again and again. Have had mechanic look over it time and time again with no real answer to fix the problem
  • seeingred5seeingred5 Posts: 1
    edited January 2013
    i have a 07 santa fe. when I hit the brakes i loose my headlights. when you have at work at 5 am that is not good. Does anyone have any solutions? I have replaced the altanator and that did no good. I still have the same problems.
    also my fuel gauge has not worked for 2 1/2 years. Have to figure miles as to not run out of gas. Can wiggle the battery cable and the fuel gauge works until you let go of it. have tightened as much as i can. my check engine light never goes off. it has been on for 2 years. Can't afford to take an almost new suv to the shop every time a dummy light comes on. I will never own another.
  • kreuzerkreuzer Posts: 122
    and have a couple of bulbs burned out on my heating/A/C control panel. How difficult is it to replace these? One bulb is needed for the temperature dial and the other is for the defrost button. Any help would be appreciated.
    Thanks!
  • salt53salt53 Posts: 1
    History: The car started running rough then cleared up. I thought I might have got some bad gas or something. The car was sputtering and lurching and had hardly any power. No engine light came on. Ok, a few minutes later it cleared up. It happened again two days later, still no engine code.

    Two weeks later as my nephew was taking my niece's children to school the car starts doing it again. Then failed to start at all after he turned off the car. (This is after a new tank of gas is put in.) This time he pulled the car to the side of the road and called me. I have the car towed home. We get it off the tow truck and it runs just enough to get it into the driveway and dies, again with hardly any power. Engine light is on. I put the reader on it and it comes up with P0350. Bad primary or secondary coil. A few months prior to this event I got a misfire code on cylinder 3 so, I replaced both coils. (I figure its like headlights, one goes out, replace both).

    Here is a weird thing. While trying to start the engine. 5 second burst. I get no spark to the spark plugs. However, when we turn the power off the coils discharge to the closest ground sometimes the valve cover, sometimes to the spark plug. ???

    Actions to date:

    Tested the coils with ohm/volt meter. Both coils check out. the book calls for a resistance between 17-23K (thousand) ohms. Both coils are at 16.4 K ohms. Spark plug wires are positive for conductivity. New plugs.

    Replaced the crankshaft timing sensor and the positioning plate that is on the crankshaft. (the notch in the crankshaft positioning plate that fits over the woodruff key was so worn, that it was allowing the plate to rotate between 7 and 15 degrees and, was also flopping side to side so that it could possibly hit the sensor)
    Replaced timing belt
    had a mechanic come over and test the ignition pulse to the fuel injector
    Had the ECU repaired. They found a bad ignition pulse driver in the ECU.
    Put the ECU back into the car. Didn't need to re-flash the ECU because the pulse driver was all that was replaced.

    Ok, with all that done we checked the ignition timing again this time with the meter. I get a reading of 4.65 volts from the crankshaft and camshaft however, not at the same time. I was trying not to have to disassemble the car to verify that the initial repair was good. I was wondering shouldn't both the crankshaft and the camshaft be firing a signal at the same time? It appears to be about 45 degrees from the crankshaft to the camshaft pulses.

    I did the dls-assembly back down to the crankshaft again.
    Put the engine at TDC (Top Dead Center) found the front balance pulley timing was off by about 100 degrees (could this be causing no spark?).

    There are two camshaft timing marks (they are aligned to the valve cover markings) visual inspection of the cams confirm that they are in fact correct,
    There is a timing mark on the crankshaft positioning plate and there is 1 one the crankshaft. Both of those are aligned together with the timing mark on the block.
    The rear balance timing mark is correct to the block.

    Ok, with all that said I am about to re-assemble the engine. I put the front balance pulley on the timing mark. Re-did the belts. and just about to button this puppy back up. Did I miss anything? Or are there other actions I need to check? And does anyone happen to know why this may have initially started in the first place??
  • limagolflimagolf Posts: 1
    I have the same problem, my lights deam when I hit the brakes. It has been in the shop 5 times replacing battery, battery cables, altanator and things only got worse. I have no idea what to do. 2007 santa fe
  • teacher447teacher447 Posts: 21
    I have a 2004 SF. Various lights inside the SUV don't work. Interior overhead lights, dashboard door & trunk open , radio cd cassette player, both passenger and driver door opening lights don't work. All other dashboard instrument light work. The fue are ok. Someone suggested that a junction box or relay is defective. I need some suggestions as to what is wrong and if I can repair this myself! Thanks.
  • I have an exactly same problem with 07 limited awd Hyundai Santa Fe.

    It just started right after my full warranty period ended.

    Was told that I have to pay $600. Car is in mechanics right now.

    This appears a manufacturing defect. Horrible... :-(
  • teacher447teacher447 Posts: 21
    Please message if the electrical problem was corrected. If so, what was wrong with the electrical system? How much did it cost for the repair?
  • somedai1somedai1 Posts: 416
    anyone check the ground cables? see if they are tight and not corroded. not just the neg battery cable... Also- any water get into your light lenses?
  • alman08alman08 Posts: 282
    edited July 2013
    Hi all, just want to share an experience that I have had with an 07 Santa Fe (3.3L V6) that might be able to help many others on here. If your 2nd gen Santa Fe have experience the following, this may apply to you:

    *flashing seat belt and batt dashboard warning light for no apparent reason
    *replacement battery does not exactly install properly

    For the flashing light, that indicates that there is a problem with the charging system with the on board computer, whether there is a dying battery or alternator problem (and let's hope it's the battery).

    When you go look for a replacement battery, many auto part stores and even the dealers will tell you, according to the manufacture, that the replacement battery is part number 124R. DO NOT buy/use it. 124R is approximately 1/4" shorter in height than the OEM (Korean made) battery. You will run into a problem connecting the positive terminal cable not being able to secure onto the positive post on the battery properly. It will give a bad fitting and led to a bad connection, and can and will create that flashing warning lights problems. Since basically no one in here will carry the Korean made battery, your likely alternative should be part number 24F with the battery height that is exactly 232mm. Or if you can find a 124R that hasa battery height of 232mm, that would be excellent, but according to all the stores that I have looked, all 124R are 225mm in height.

    After installing the battery, start the car, run on P for 2 mins, run on D (with your foot on the brake) for 2 mins, run on P with max AC for 2 mins, then run on D (with your foot on the brake) with max AC for 2 mins. Turn off engine. Turn on engine, and don't care how you accomplish this, but with the car in D, press and release the brake for approximately 25 to 30 times (drive around town?). The flashing warning light will be magically gone.

    I am not a certified mechanic, so do this at your own risk. Hopefully this will help some of you frustrated Santa Fe owners.
  • jallohjalloh Posts: 1
    hi everyone please help
    2001 santa fe rear driving light do not work on driver side
    license plate ligth do not work either
    no power going to bulb socket
    right side works fine
    all break lights work and reverse ligths also work
    turning signals work
    checked all fuses the are ok
  • Probably a bad ground from a loose wire or rust.
  • serlesserles Posts: 2
    I am having this same problem, did you discover what was the culprit? Thanks!
  • serlesserles Posts: 2
    The vehicle is requiring a jump to start (unless it has sat for several hours, then it will sometimes start on its own) and will run ok for a minute or two, then it will start bogging down and shifting hard into gear. It got to the point where the car would accelerate to 10mph with the pedal to the floor, it would bog some more and then slowly accelerate. The abs, battery, check engine lights are all on and electronic systems seem to dull down (a/c not blowing, lights in display dim) while driving. Anyone have any ideas?
  • i'm having the same issue with my wife's 2002 santa fe. i was hoping you could tell me what you came up with. thanks.
  • bj01bj01 Posts: 1
    I have been having a lot of problems with my 2004 Santa Fe. It started with the car not starting after getting gas. I replaced the purge valve and that fixed the problem. My check engine light came on a few months later and we checked the code and it was P0455. We went and had it checked out and it was the Canister Shut Off Valve which we then replaced. We had the code cleared and it came back on a week later. This time the check engine light will turn on and off randomly. My headlights and the lights on the dash will flicker sometimes if I am using my turn signal. Another thing we have noticed is we get shocked by the car a lot whether we are getting in and out and even when we start it. Now, the battery dies. We will jump it and let it run for a while and after that if we turn it off and try to turn it back on , it will be dead. The battery is about 2 years old. Does anyone have any idea what might be wrong or have had any similar issues?
  • I have a 2011 Santa Fe and when I drive the air conditioner radomly comes on. When I try and turn it off it take about 5 tries then in a few minutes it will come back on. Air runs great but it doesn't want to turn off.
  • I HAVE A 2003 HYUNDAI SANTA FA GSL 2.7. my battery (12 VOLT) is showing a 9.86 OUTPUT, UNDER A LOAD. DO I need a new battery? thank you.
  • 9.86 volts under load doesn't sound that bad. Why do you suspect its bad? If you had trouble starting it have you tried a battery charger on it?
  • thanks for your reply. I recently had my vehicle serviced and was told I needeed a battery. I didn't think I did, so I was just checking this site to see if I was right
  • puggsley2puggsley2 Posts: 2

    My daughter's 2007 Santa Fe is indicating all the above electrical problems. Most of the controls on the steering wheel don't work and now the rear door window will not rise from it's place inside the door. I checked and there is no power to the motor, but all fuses are OK. She (I) can't afford $600 to fix what appears to be a crappy bit of wiring from the factory. Any suggestions?

  • puggsley2puggsley2 Posts: 2

    My daughter's 2007 Santa Fe also makes a strange sound as she pulls away. It sounds like a slipping fan belt but I don't think it can be of the valve timing may also go awry. Again any ideas?

  • kbedard01kbedard01 Posts: 1

    I just bought a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe. Regretably, from a buy here pay here. I had the car for about 2 weeks, when it just died right in the middle of the highway. Thehe car refused stay on, let alone move. After a week of having it back at the dealer, they said it was a crank sensor and my timing belt was off. The day after I got it back, the check engine light came on. Surprise. I took it to Advanced Auto and they said it was either an O2 sensor, or the engine was getting too much gas. I too, notice the weird "clicking" noise, while I'm pressing the gas pedal, when I let off, the sound dies. The transmission takes a while to shift, the rpm will go up to 4 a lot before it shifts, and it started slipping 2 days ago. Tonight, when I parked the car and went to turn it back on, everything would start up like usual, but after about 4 seconds, the engine cut out. Totally.

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