Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Ford Mustang Transmission Problems

1246

Comments

  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,704
    Check the switch behind the brake pedal. It controls the taillights and the brake-shift interlock. There should be an override procedure - check the owner's manual.
  • reddenredden Posts: 2
    Thanks for the info.......................
  • bullitt4bullitt4 Posts: 1
    edited May 2010
    I bought an 08 Bullitt mustang in sept of 2008. Not 6 months had gone by and the car started grinding gears 1-2, 2-3, took the car in and with 5800 miles had to replace 1-2 sychronizer an 2-3 synchronizer clutch and pressure plate. 2 weeks later the car would not go into gear at all. Transmission was removed and they found 2 gear had problem, replaced and reinstalled. Three months the car started grinding gears, pulled transmission and found slave cylinder in clutch failed and 2-3 sychronizer bad, replaced, reinstalled. A month later car stuck in 2nd gear. Removed transmission found slave cylinder bad again, replaced. Two weeks later car would not shift gears unless off. Back to the dealer they kept it 27 days to tell me that 6 torque to yeild bolts were reused and should not have been, replaced told that would fix all the problems by Ford engineers! Well once again 5/7/10 car is back grind ALL GEARS! Dealer says that it is the clutch and #2 sychronizer again. Dealer installed after market racing clutch replaced #2 synchronizer says it is fixed. Driving home 4.3 miles car would not release third gear and over reved engine to redline and banging rev limiter excessively. I am extremely frustrated the car has been out of service 60 days this year alone and has hit 26,000 through all of this never once going more than 9,000 miles and less than 6 months between major transmission concerns. I am at a loss and hate my car that I fell in love with the first time I laid eyes on it. Any suggestions? I picked it up today (5/27) and will return it tomorrow a.m. (5/28) for the clutch sticking third gear and smelling burnt from the clutch assembly. Cannot wait to drive it cold to see if it is going to grind gears again.
  • I have a 2006 mustang 5 speed with 53,000 miles and have experienced a high pitched whining sound in gears 1-4 and less so in 5th gear. AAMCO transmission shop first thought it was a transmission related problem, although I did not feel any performance decline, but after thorough diagnosis found that the noise was from a defective idler pulley. Total cost $131.25 including labor. The whine has disappeared. Mechanic did remind me that the car has two idler pulleys, so the other may start to whine soon as well.

    Not saying this is your problem but just something to check if you haven't already done so.
  • I bought a 2010 Mustang GT a few months ago and have only about 1600 miles on it. I always thought it was a little hard to shift, but the other day I had a hell of a time getting it out of 4th gear. Then it was hard to shift back into any gear. I have owned many different manual shift cars, including a different GT and a Cobra and never experienced any of these problems. I have not even had a chance to really get on it yet! Any advice I could get would be great to take to the dealer. I figure I'll either get the old "I don't know how to drive a stick" business or "these new transmissions are truck trannys". I don't need the run around for $33 Grand.
  • ezshift5ezshift5 West coastPosts: 854
    For $33k, a decent transmission should be a no brainer.

    I am on the fence for a 2011 V-6 6M.....................hope the new transmission is trouble free. My Dad told me never to buy the first new model year. Maybe he has a point.

    ez....
  • This is a continuation of post #97. After taking the car out for a drive again, I tried to recreate the original shifting problem again. After start up, the transmission shifted fine through all 5 gears but I only ran it up to 2800 rpm before shifting. Then from a dead stop, I took it up to about 4500 rpm in first, then 4500 rpm in second, then could not shift into third and slowed down. It took way to much force to put it back into any gear. I finally got it into second and got the car moving again, but if I fully engage the clutch pedal all the way down, I can give it a little gas and the car will start to slightly accellerate as if the clutch is slightly engaged. I had to baby it all the way home in second gear just to get it back to the garage. Is this a clutch problem or a transmission problem?
  • moronixmoronix Posts: 29
    I would hope you would just take it to the dealer where you purchased it since you can reproduce the problem. Just don't let them give you a line of B.S. You have a serious problem that could be dangerous. It's up to them to figure out what the cause is. I have an '07 GT/CS with only minor transmission problem (shifting is not as smooth as I would like) but since I don't race it I can live with it. Good luck.
  • am wondering what you have found out.ive had a 07 and got a 08 at this time,same ole thing,the shifting is not right.
  • my 2000 mustang has a v6 and the trans is banging and vibrating when shifting in and out of overdrive when warmed up other then that it runs and shifts fine so whats going on with it?
  • I see a lot of us are have issues with our mustangs. My 06 makes the weird clunking sound too. It has 47000 miles. It goes in and out of gears OK. First and reverse can be difficult, especially after sitting overnight. My question is, is it normal for the clutch to be so stiff?
  • the only thing i can say is i think we been stiffed with some bad trainies.ive own a 07 and now own a 08.ive got a lot of issues,thats not normal with your trainy.i keep getting the go around with ford.if you reply,ill tell you more later,got to run.
  • Sorry didn't respond sooner, work a lot of hours.
    It is, so Ford tells me. Their are lockout devices in place for both first and reverse, to prevent from accidently putting it in that gear while tranny is engaged. I get that, as far as the clunking, they tell me that it is because drivetrain, is not top of the line for v6, that we will experience some kick back due to the design. I'm told that is normal and is not hurting anything. I do find that if i back off in first to second, and be fluid with my shift that I don't have that issue. I've had no major problems with clutch or tranny so I am taking them at their word. Hope this helps.
  • Thanks for your comment. My mind has been put at ease seeing other people with similar issues. I've had my Mustang almost a year now and the clutch/tranny have been the same. No changes at all. I really love my Mustang even in this Spokane winter, I'll just accept it for what it is and just be happy.
  • martihmartih Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Automatic Mustang, if I apply the brake hard it will not be in gear for a minute or so and then pops back in, is this a transmission problem?
  • im not sure,but i think it may be a safety switch.get another opinion.
  • I have a '10 GT that has an intermittant problem shifting.....it is extremely hard to shift into 1st, reverse etc....took it to the dealership...they are feeding me BS about the clutch being worn....it only has 16,000 mellow miles driven on it....if it was the clutch it wouldn't be intermittant...it's still in the shop....I think these cars have some slave bearing problems and other issues....
  • Ford called....definitely a slave bearing.....came apart.....
  • i have this GIANT problem that when i try getting out of park, it doesnt get out it stays stuck on Park. Its like the Button to move the gear stick stays stuck so i cant change gears from Park to Reverse, it takes FOREVER.

    can anyone help?
  • I bought 2011 automatic V6 mustang after 16 years with a standard Mustang. When I pull out to pass or want to merge onto the highway, I try to accelerate but there is a pause of 2 to 3 seconds, and a high revving sound…but no forward movement, forcing me to abort my effort to merge or to pass. It is dangerous. Service department denied the problem. However, I went on a drive with one of their employees and the same thing happened. In front of others, he said, “yes” there’s a problem to his boss. I left the car with them to fix. (It’s under warranty with only 2,000 km.). now they’re saying the guy really didn’t think there was a problem…I have sent the service manager, with whom I’m now dealing, all of the comments from the forum that show others are having the same problem. Has anyone come up with a solution? Does it require replacement of the transmission? What??? Any help is appreciated. If anyone wants to get together on this to consider legal action if things don’t improve please let me know… I am in Toronto area.
  • dragonfly47dragonfly47 Posts: 26
    1. Check to see if a fuse has blown.
    2. Check to see if your brake lights work.
    3. If the fuses are ok but you have no brake lights, the problem is most likely due to a faulty brake light switch up under the dash or a bad electrical connection to that switch. A faulty switch will lock out your ability to get out of Park.

    A temporary work around is to turn the ignition key to position one, then put the vehicle in Neutral and start.
  • ramharbramharb Posts: 1
    hello there, i own a 2001 ford mustang v6 automatic.
    i have a problem when driving, and the gear 2 shifts to gear 3, it only shifts at 2200 rpm, which makes the car slow when going up. why is the gear 2 shifting so quickly, it should be on 3000 or 3 500 rpm...??
  • jammin81jammin81 Posts: 1
    My '10 GT also had intermittent shifting problems. I noticed a lot of rattling noise at low rpm in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears. I could feel weak synchronization downshifting into 2nd and 1st gears. The problem was especially bad after I had taken the car down the Interstate and had it warmed up good. At 22,000 mild miles, Ford is rebuilding my transmission under warranty. They replaced 2nd and 3rd gears and other miscellaneous parts. Had I not given them specific details about the problems in each gear, and the fact that the car had to be driven a while first to notice the problems they may not have validated the issue. The only main problem is that the car has been in the shop for 2 weeks waiting for back-ordered parts from Ford. I should have it back tomorrow and I really hope that it drives as well as my '01 Bullitt GT did. I just feel like these new cars aren't put together as well. If you need more info let me know because your car may need the same things replaced that mine did.
  • topdown11topdown11 Posts: 1
    I have a '94 Mustang 6 cyl with an automatic transmission. I have been having episodes over the last year and a half of what feels to me like the transmission dropping out of gear into neutral . It seems to happen at random times. I'll be driving along when all of a sudden I can feel the engine start to race. When this happens, my tachometer will jump about 1000 points. Sometimes it happens when I am accelerating. Other times when I'm slowing down or just maintaining my speed. It seems to happen with the cruse control on or off. When it happens, I take my foot off the gas or deactivate my cruse control and after a couple of seconds my car returns to normal although it's more prone to reoccur within the next minute or so. I had it to a transmission repair shop, but they couldn't detect any problem. Any ideas?
  • 2011 Mustang V6 6-speed auto tranny is junk. Upshifts so soon that it gets all the way into 6th gear when the car has travelled only 1/2 a block in urban traffic. What it the tranny doing in 6th gear at 30mph? Lug, lug, lug. Stepping on the gas produces a long delay (very poor throttle response) before the tranny downshifts. Then, of course, in city traffic, the tranny is constantly banging up and down through gears trying to figure out what gear to be in - it is always in too high a gear, unless the gas it floored. Same thing at freeway speeds - constantly hunts up and down to be in what the tranny thinks is the right gear - which is annoying to say the least. And, the tranny will not shift down into 1st gear when the car is comming to a stop until the car is actually stopped. Therefore, "running starts" cause the tranny to clunk (very loudly) down into 1st gear (where it should have been to start with). Cluck, clunk, clunk. The V6's engine's very poor throttle response in conjuction with the too-soon-shifting-always-in-too-high-a-gear 6-speed tranny makes the car uncomfortable to drive. The car always feel "gutless" which is rediculous with the 305 HP engine. I know Ford is try to get good gas milage out of these cars, but making the car hard to drive does not seem a practical solution. I have ordered a chip that claims better throttle response and later shifting - if that doesn't fix things the car will be traded in at a non-American non-Canadian car dealer for a car that runs properly. And, the 6-speed standard tranny has that stupid skip-shift feature - unbelievable. DO NOT BUY A MMUSTANG.
  • gzgtpgzgtp Posts: 83
    I have never understood a Mustang with an auto tranny. Sorry to hear your problems. Next time try a V-8 Manual.
    Your last sentence should read DO NOT BY A MUSTANG WITH AUTO TRANS.
  • Thank You. This was a big help. It my daughters car. One question, where is the brake light switch at under that dash, and what's it look like?
  • Here's the part: brake switch 95 Stang.

    It's attached to the top of the brake pedal arm."
  • jesslajessjesslajess Posts: 1
    edited September 2011
    I've been having the same problem. My V6 94 Mustang 3.8L for the past few years has been having tranny problems. It's not all the time, but every so often the tranny will slip or try to grab when it's changing gears. So the revs will shoot up and when it finally grabs it shakes the whole car. Anyone have any ideas? I've tried tranny lubricant and SeaFoam and sorts of ****, but to no avail.
  • Same problem, but, a wise old mechanic let me in on a simple explanation as to why it drops out of gear.
    The OD clutches have wear/are wearing out.
    To avoid the inevitable expense of the repair he pointed out that all you have to do in the interim is push the OD button & turn the Overdrive off.
    Problem solved, with a loss of feul economy.
    I've been driving for 5yrs this way with no slipage.
Sign In or Register to comment.