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Geo Metro Engine Questions

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  • My son limped home my Geo and it has not started since. It cranks, all cylinders have good pressure, Have fuel no spark. Tested Coil and it reads good. I do not have a crank P/U. The distributor pick-up coil test good, The distributor ignitor may be the problem...I am unable to check at this time and can't find info on how to test. Is there anything else that I could check before I buy parts?
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    Before you start testing for spark anywhere; it is essential to understand that you cannot jumper across the ignition switch on a Metro to make the engine run. There is an anti theft circuit built into this electrical system which shuts down the spark if you jumper across the ignition switch (even when the key is turned on). So you must have all the wiring connected in the stock routing.

    A> The next thing to check is to remove the distributor cap and have someone watch the rotor while the engine is being cranked. If the rotor does not turn steadily as the engine is cranked; then the timing belt has broken or slipped out of position. If the rotor does turn; then turn the crankshaft until the timing marks line up at the 6 degrees BTDC position. At that position; the tip of the rotor should either be pointing STRAIGHT UP, OR STRAIGHT DOWN. If it points anywhere else; the timing belt has jumped out of position.

    You say you have no spark; but you didn't specify the location where you found there was no spark. This can be critically important; because the spark can be blocked by something as basic as a defective ignition switch. If that were the case; and you hadn't first checked to see if there was battery supply voltage at the coil positive terminal, you could spend a fortune replacing every part in the entire ignition system, and never see any improvement. So, to do ignition diagnosis properly, and avoid needless waste of money; you need to start at the source, and then work step by step along the entire path from the battery to the spark plug..

    B> Make sure you're getting full battery power to the coil; and confirm a voltmeter reading with a large bulb (24 watt stoplight or equivalent) to be sure that the voltage is maintained when an appreciable current is being drawn from the power source. A bad test reading could come from high internal resistance in the ignition switch, or a poor connection between the battery ground cable and the engine; or between the battery ground cable and the inner fender. There MUST be a solid conection between the battery and BOTH of those points.

    C> If you get a confirmed voltage and power supply at the coil; check the igniter by connecting a good, old fasioned point dwell meter between ground and the coil negative lead. Crank the starter; and you should see a dwell reading of somewhere between 25% and 75% of the maximum number of degrees on the scale. So, if you had the dwell scale set to 8 cylinders, where 45 degrees is the maximum possible reading; you should get a reading somewhere between 11 degrees (which is about 25% of 45) and 33 degrees (which is about 75% of 45). If you use the 6 cylinder dwell scale, where 60 degrees is the maximum possible reading; your reading should be between 15 degrees and 45 degrees. It really doesn't matter which number of cylinders scale you use; it is only the PERCENTAGE of the full scale reading that we care about, and that will be the same regardless of which dwell scale is used.

    D> If the dwell meter test comes out good; then test for spark directly between the coil high voltage terminal and ground. First check the resistance of the coil to distributor cap high voltage wire with an ohmmeter. The resistance should be less than 1,000 ohms per inch of wire length (so a 12" long wire should have less than 12,000 ohms resistance, etc. If the resistance is greater than that; replace the entire set of plug wires.) Just hold the end of the coil to distributor cap wire about 1/4" to 1/2" from a metal part on the engine (with your hand at least 6 inches back from the end), and crank the motor. If there is no spark in that test and all of the previous tests were good; then either the coil is defective (or the wrong model part for this car) or the distributor pick up coil is defective (even though you said it tested good).

    E> If you have a spark at the coil, but not at the plugs; then with the distributor cap off and the rotor in place, hold the end of the coil wire next to the metal blade on the rotor while the engine is cranked. There should NOT be a spark to the rotor in this test. If there is a spark; the rotor is grounded and must be replaced.

    F> If the rotor tests good, and there is no spark to the plugs; then either the distributor cap or the plug wires are bad.

    G> Whenever there has been a lot of driving with an ignition problem; the spark plugs can build up conductive deposits which will then make the engine run badly; even after the problem is fixed. So it is always good insurance to replace the plugs.

    Please note that Metro engines are highly sensitive to both plug brand and gap setting. I strongly recommend avoiding NGK plugs in this motor (although I use them on other vehicles where they are an appropriate choice) and suggest using only Autolite # 63, ACDelco # R42CXLS, Champion Truck Plug # 4430, or Bosch # 4306 platinum +2, or Bosch Fusion # 4506.

    I hope this helps!!!
  • I recently changed plugs and wires on my daughters 2000 metro 4-cylinder. I was confused by how many wires needed changed. I told her to go buy plugs/wires, she came back with 4 plug wires but I only saw 2 that I could change. The other 2 just have wires (not plug wires) that connect to other plugs.
    One more thing, does the 2000 metro have a fuel filter and a mass air flow sensor?
  • "One more thing, does the 2000 metro have a fuel filter and a mass air flow sensor?"

    2000 CHEVROLET METRO 1.0L 3-cyl Engine Code [6]

    Fuel Filter WIX 33569 Fuel Filter
  • We have to replace cylinder head in 1990 Geo Metro because it had a crack and we bought a used cylinder head from another 1994 Geo metro in which there are 2 valves which are burnt.
    Here are my questions.

    1.Can we use the good valves from our old cracked head ?or we should buy all new valves?
    2.Replace only those 2 burned valves? or replace them all?
    3.What is the best way to check this new head and valves that it is going to last for some time?
  • My mother has a metro 4cyl with auto trans. been running great still does however a noise has come up and until I can confirm what it is she'd not driving it.

    The noise is like a metal rattling sound when the engine is running. It sounds over near the belts, so the pass side of the car. I listen sloser to the engine and it sounds within right near the belts.I noticed something sounded funny weeks ago but now the sound is much louder.

    Ideas?
  • May be the crankshaft pulley. These models are known for this problem. There are other posts on this site describing it. I have a 96 Metro with the same problem. If it hasn't already, it will eventually cause the car to run rough because the wobbling pulley throws the crankshaft position sensor off. There is a post on this forum outlining a do-it-yourself fix. I haven't tried it yet, but plan on it in the spring.
  • hey folks, I am new here and I am looking to find some one who can tell me if the geo engine can be used as stationary power scorce. If so dose it matter what year.Would appreciate any help I can get. Thank you in advance.
  • I have a 1997 Geo Metro lsi with the 1.3L 4 cylinder engine. It starts and runs great. Has about 230,000 miles on it but after warming up and driving maybe about 30 miles it acts like it runs out of gas. I pump the gas a few times and it runs ok for a while longer or does it again after a few miles. The local repair shop can find nothing wrong but, did reproduce the problem. They put a fuel pressure gauge on it and ran it. The fuel pressure is good even when this happens. I have changed the fuel filter, spark plugs, wires, rotor, cap and even the coil. It also "seems" to be worse when driving in rain or fog, if that would make any difference.
    Today it totally quit on my. I coasted over to the side of the road, turned off the ignition and restarted it and drove the next 10 miles (about) to work without any problems (my total commute is 66 miles one way).
    Any ideas as to what to check???
  • While shopping online I see many different part numbers for shocks and struts for my 92 metro. I know the convertible has 13" wheels, so does that affect which front strut to buy. The KYB's have a different strut for left or right side but the other manufacturers don't. What's up with that? The monroes have three different struts for this year car, so which one is the right one?
    Thanks
  • geonewbiegeonewbie Posts: 2
    edited February 2010
    I got this car from a friend for nothing , he said he drove it home shut it off and it wouldnt start back up again. It cranks gets gas has good spark. what should I look for now ? Heck I got the car for Free I really cant go wrong , it doesn't look like it a very compacated engine.Thank you for your time reading this post. :)
  • zendenzenden Posts: 62
    Check for water in the gas, compression on all cyl's; fuel pressure; try to start it by spraying it with either. Check the spark is it blue; if not! test the the coil resistance. If compression is low it could be more then 1 burnt valve, or a combination of burnt valves and or blown head gasket; they are known for burnt valves. What engine do you have the 3 cyl? If compression is low on all cylinders first check the timing marks on cam and crank shaft.
  • It is a 3 cyl 1.0.
  • I have a 98 metro 1.0 5 speed 108,000 miles. Runs great but when cruising about 60 mph sometimes it stalls just like i had turned the key off, usually within 5 seconds it will kick back in and all is well for awhile. Usually fethering the pedal at cruising speed will produce this affect also. Sometimes it wont start also but waiting about 5 min it starts right up. I caan hear the fuel pump kick in when i turn the ignition so thats good. No smoke, no sign of head gasket problems, not sure what casuses it. Anyone have any ideas???
  • zendenzenden Posts: 62
    It sounds like a fuel pump regulator; they are regulated by the vacuum level; but they don't go bad very often; but it is possible. The regulator could do just what you described on an idle; when starting, or when feathering the gas pedal; because under these conditions the pressure regulator is to respond; you could do a fuel pressure test. Test the regulator for leak down pressure; It could also be a bad electrical connection, or a chafed wire,even tho you can hear the fuel pump run, it is an intermittent problem. I have seen this problem on the same type of car and found a chafed fuel pump wire under the back seat on the right side. The wire was hanging by a thread for 2 years and having the same intermittent problem all of that time. The fuel pump ran, but not good enough, believe it or not! I think that I have seen it all. Not to say that you have the same thing wrong. It is hard to diagnose on line, in fact it can often be very difficult when it is in front of us; so good luck hope this helps some what. I would like to here others input on this subject.Keep me up to date, I will help if I can.
  • This has been very confusing to me, and all the people at autozone tell me is that i need a injector. However at just a glance you can tell that fuel delivery is good. Started with a sputter every now and then on the highway, to dying at an idle. Changed plugs and fuel filter (both were nasty),and got it to running. now it just doesn't idle correctly, when turning the lights on it will die under the load. one thing to another. any ideas???
  • Thanks for the info! Where is the fuel pump regulator located? The fuel pump wire under the back seat, is it inside the cabin or under the care? Thanks alot.
  • zendenzenden Posts: 62
    edited March 2010
    If I where you I would have a fuel pressure test done first. But it would need to be done properly to diagnose the fuel supply system, including a leak down test to see if the pressure was holding after it is shut off; this would be the way to test the regulator properly. As far as a bad connection under the back seat! This would more of a long shot, and less probable cause of your troubles; But if you want to check that connection anyway; yes inside of the cabin it has 3 wires going to the pump, Black, yellow, and a purple one. you could check for bad connection where they connect together toward the passenger side.
    The regulator is under the air filter housing it is held in by 3 or 4 small screws holding it in; the screw heads are facing up at you; there are 2 rubber gasoline hoses connected to it (one thicker then the other) they run parallel to each other; the other end of these 2 hoses connect near the center of the fire wall. The thicker hose is your fuel supply from the pump and filter. The thinner of the 2 rubber hoses is your return line back to the tank. The purpose of the regulator is to relieve the un necessary pressure that is built up by the pump and return it back to the tank through that smaller of the 2 lines. Now that you got that! and I know what I am about to say will sound like allot of If's BUT!
    If you don't want to pay for a pressure test to be done and or do not have a friend to test it for you and If you could replicate the problem at will; and assuming that the problem is being caused by the regulator by releasing off to much pressure that is needed then! Replicate the problem and then by using a pare of Vice Grips squeeze the thinner return line as it comes out of the regulator, this will boost the pressure to the max by not letting it return, in turn the engine would smooth out and run right if the regulator was the cause. Even if you had to drive the car like this temporarily with it clamped to test it; it should hurt anything at all. I have fixed cars that the return lines where clogged up completely; the only symptom was they ate more gas and no one could figure out why.
    If the regulator is the problem, you can take the screws out; remove the diaphram ( inspect it for cracks or dry rot ) it is slightly loaded by a spring so watch out not to lose it! Spray cleaner down inside as needed look for maybe a grain of sand or something! Then put a small amount of grease on both sides of the diaphragm around the edges where it seals, and bolt it back together; Its cheeper then buying one!
    I hope this helps you.
  • i have a '95 geo metro automatic, 4 cylinder, 1.3 engine. i need parts. right now i need a rocker arm. does anyone out there have any suggestions about where to find any parts for it. are anyother car parts interchangable?

    thanks
    duskwatr2000
  • zendenzenden Posts: 62
    edited April 2010
    I like this link, They have alot of GEO parts, but they dont have your rocker arm: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/catalog.php
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