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Geo Metro Engine Questions

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Comments

  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    This could be caused by several different things. The first thing I would do is to replace the fuel filter and the air filter. If that does not solve the problem, I would replace the spark plugs, the distributor cap and rotor, and the spark plug wires. It is very important to only use the following recommended spark plugs. Most spark plugs will be too hot for this motor, and will break down (especially in hot weather). I would not copy whatever plug is now being used; but would instead recommend Autolite # 63, or # AP63; or ACDelco # R42XLS or ACDelco Rapidfire # 4; or Bosch Super Plus # 7901 (WR7DC+); or Champion # 415 (RN9YC). Some of these are not the numbers recommended in the books; but I have found that many manufacturer's recommended plugs for the Metro are too hot for this motor; and the plug numbers listed here are the ones I know from my own experience will work properly. The plug gap should be set to .039" (1.0mm).

    The ignition timing on this motor cannot be properly checked or adjusted without first disabling the electronic spark advance circuit (by shorting the check connector terminals). If the timing is adjusted without first disabling the electronic advance; it will end up being set too far retarded. And that could cause the problem you describe.

    Let me know what you try, and what the results are.
  • dan967dan967 Posts: 3
    Thank you zaken1 !!
    I want to tell you that I just changed from 3-4 months the fuell pump, the fuell filtrer,the air filtrer and the distributor cap and rotor. Now I will check what you sugest me and I will call you back.
    Thanks zaken1 !
  • zendenzenden Posts: 62
    It sounds like a an idle air control problem (IAC). If this be the case, it would be doing it when the eng is trying to find its correct idle point; not when your foot would be on the gas. Dose the problem start happening when your foot is off the gas? When it starts doing it, will it clear up and run right when you push back on the gas if the RPM is above 600 or so, but not if below 600? To figure out if I am on the right track; Question: Hot or cold, does this car have any abnormalities in its idle control? If so,. Have a mechanic test the values of air intake Temp, coolant temp, TPS, AC/ idle control and in accordance with its idle stop setting. Any one of the above and more may not set a code. Possibly your mechanic dose not have the correct scan tool to properly diog., or did not take the time to test. I would like zaken1 to farther assist you on this if possible. I do not always receive my emails and or have limited time to respond. Thank god for Smell check!
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    edited July 2010
    This sounds to me like it might be pinging (otherwise known as preignition knock). This noise is created by the pressure wave from the burning fuel in the cylinders striking the pistons while they are still moving upwards. That can either be caused by ignition timing which is set too far advanced, or by the use of too low a fuel octane. The volume of the noise from pinging will become louder; the harder you press on the accelerator. Because of this issue; Metros are known to run better and get better mileage on premium fuel than they do on regular. Try a full tankful of major brand premium fuel and see what this does for the noise. Shell, Chevron, Texaco, or Sunoco are the best brands. I would also recommend adding a bottle of Chevron Techron fuel injector and combustion chamber cleaner to the fuel tank just before filling the tank. This product will gradually clean out carbon deposits in the next 50-75 miles of driving; which will reduce the engine's tendency to ping, and will also make it run smoother and have more power. Techron works better than other products of its type; so it is worth going out of your way to find it. Sold at Chevron gas stations, Checker, Shucks, Kragen, Murray, Auto Zone, and O'Reilly Auto parts stores, and Wal-Mart.
  • aaron42aaron42 Posts: 1
    when ever i try to turn on i have to try a couple of times until it actually does, then after it turns on i run it and everything is fine, it is not til the engine get hot to running level that if i stop it will turn off, then i have a hard time turning it on , it takes a while and many tries for it to turn on. or if i drive somewhere and the engine is hot and i park and then try to turn it back on after a couple of minutes, it also wont turn on.

    my check engine light is on and i took it to auto zone to get it checked and they told me that they where not picking up a signal from the car. so basically my question is, has anybody had this problem and had it fixed. or is there a fuse that can be replaced so that the diagnostic can be read
  • zendenzenden Posts: 62
    It is not a fuse that is bad! Most of the time if we can not communicate with a car it is because there is a bad ground in the diagnostic connector circuit. Or a cheep scan tool that is being used to test with; or a tool that is not compatible to interface with your system. If I where you and wanted to diog. my own car the cheapest way possible. I would find a mechanic who does diagnostic work everyday; approach him about an hour before closing shop. Ask him if he would have the time to be able to scan your car for you before he closes today. Many mechanics don't mind helping if they only had the time to, and scanning your car is quick and easy; Finding the fix is the time consuming. To do a scan, where I live, would be a small charge of $20.00 or less, most of the time; No Charge at all.
  • alniteralniter Posts: 8
    I replaced the muffler and back half of the exhaust system on my 2000 Metro hatchback. The original was one piece, but all the replacements I could find were two pieces, with the pipe from one half sliding into the pipe from the other just in front of the back wheel, with a U-bolt to join them. Unfortunately, the pipe is in such a tight channel in the undercarriage that with the U-bolt attached, it rattles bigtime, all the time, eventually shaking the U-bolt loose. Are there less bulky joiners out there that will really hold? Welding is out, but it just isn't working as is.

    Thanks for input,
    Steve in Florida
  • any ideas on how to restore a sun baked dash,,??,,,overhauling engine this winter,what kind of rings should i use, and grit( 320-180 ect) 4 cleaning up cyl walls,,,,,and how big a job replacing stock gauges 4 on with tach,have tach cluster already,,,,sold my 69 amx 4 some mpg, this is a great car as well,everything works fine a/c is cold,runs fine,only prob, its not 400 hp,,lol
  • suz13suz13 Posts: 10
    I bought a standard car vinyl rejuvinater in a bottle. Standard stuff, applied it daily for a few weeks, then once a month. It's never been perfect but close enough. I have a theory that the original "baking" had something to do with the defrosters air waves because I can see a pattern from where that air comes out of. I am not so sure it is from sun-baking at all. I believe a prior owner let the antifreeze run out and when the radiator went kerfewy it emitted fumes that caused this dried out pattern. I did exactly that to my Plymouth Sundance and thats what the dashboard looked like after I replaced the radiator ! (my bad!) haha.
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    In order to know what to do with the cylinders; you need to measure the cylinder taper. If it has more than .002" taper; then it will have to be rebored to an oversize. I would not recommend just replacing the rings at 188,000 miles. Japanese engines tend to develop looseness in the ring grooves; which will make new rings wobble and leak compression when they are installed on an old piston. The maximum clearance limit on the piston ring grooves is .007" on the top ring, and .006" on the second ring. If the ring grooves are worn, the pistons and rings should both be replaced. I would use stock specification rings (that may be all that is available on this motor).

    I would not recommend using sandpaper for cleaning up the cylinder walls. A hone is the proper tool to use for this operation. Hones with stones tend to cut and will loosen up the piston clearance; so a ball hone may be more appropriate for just removing glaze and roughing up the surface. Be sure to keep moving the hone up and down through the full depth of the cylinder; in order to create a cross hatch pattern. I would also check the valve stem to guide clearance; as they tend to get loose and will lead to inconsistent valve sealing. These motors are more precisely machined than American iron; and are far more critical on the fit and clearances of parts.
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    First of all, www.rockauto.com probably carries a one piece cat back exhaust for your Metro. (At least; they have them for many other Metro models); but I just mentioned that as general information, not because I'd expect you to trash what you bought. Secondly; your report sounds like the muffler you now have is not properly supported. Metros originally come with flexible supports for the front and back end of the muffler; which use strong rubber bands to tie the muffler to the body. These supports are essential to damp out vibration input, and to prevent such events as the muffler shaking so severely that clamp nuts loosen. If your muffler is not supported in this manner, and you were able to clamp the joint so securely that it did not vibrate loose; the vibration would then be transferred to the muffler inlet pipe, which would eventually fracture from the stress and probably break the case or the inlet weld. So, in that sense, the clamp nuts loosening served as a mechanical "safety valve" which prevented the muffler's destruction. A good muffler shop (such as Meineke) should be able to install proper supports at an affordable cost. I would strongly recommend doing this before making any effort to strengthen or secure the clamping.

    There are two things you can do to strengthen the joint. One would be to apply high strength Loctite to the U-bolt threads. Loctite is a liquid adhesive which is intended to secure threaded parts from vibrating loose. It is applied to the threads just before installing the nut. It is sold at auto parts stores which serve professional mechanics and machine shops, and comes in several different strengths. For your application, I would use the formula which is called # 271 in their industrial line; or sometimes referred to as "high strength" or "stud and bearing mount" in their consumer line. But this product will make it VERY difficult to remove the nuts, if it ever becomes necessary.

    There is also a different type of clamp called a "band clamp" that is used by hot rodders and racers to create a strong, leak free joint on exhaust pipes. They are available in two types; butt joint, for pipes which are not inserted together; or lap joint, for pipes which slip into each other. Here's a photo of a lap joint clamp (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-692200/?rtype=10). Unfortunately, this type of clamp is typically made in 2" and larger diameters. My 1990 Metro muffler inlet pipe is 1.5" OD, and the muffler outlet pipe is 1 5/8" OD. I expect yours is the same. However there are narrower band clamps which are available in sizes to fit your pipe. Here's a photo of one that would be suitable (http://secure.chassisshop.com/partrelate/C73-306/). You could use two of these clamps to make a pretty strong joint by cutting a metal can lengthwise, wrapping it around the joint, and securing it with a clamp over the muffler pipe, and another one right alongside it, over the exhaust pipe.
  • alniteralniter Posts: 8
    The band clamp sounds best, I found them online and will doublecheck diameters before ordering (no one carries them locally it seems). The U-bolt has to go regardless because of the width of it causing vibration in the channel.

    Had I known about the u-bolt clamp issue I probably would have sent the exhaust pieces back. They are indeed from Rockauto, and are illustrated as one piece on their site. Live & learn. I think the band clamp will make it work fine though. Thanks!

    Steve
  • thanx i will try , or better dash,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,masivmpg
  • deamar4deamar4 Posts: 1
    Hi all, I am new to the group. my daughters metro has thrown a check engine light that i am told is a vacuum leak. the car generally spits a little white smoke on starting but runs like a champ. she says its spitting black smoke now. I am told this is due to it running w/ the leak.
    other than general inspection of hoses, what all can I check for vacuum leaks? in searching for cracks etc., is there a way cheater way to look for a leak? btw, seems to still run fine, not sluggish or rough. as described to me via code, large vacuum leak is the code. Thanks for any help
  • dags123dags123 Posts: 2
    i have had my 1992 geo metro xfi rear wheel bearing has not been able to stay fixed , longest is a month.last was 20 miles or less. i suspect the aftermarket wheel drum,(not positive and ill check this but i think its mostly just one each time( the inner bearing )but please give me info and ideas for both inner and outer as i may be wrong.the spindle im told by the mechanic is fine . he replaced the inner and outer and the break drum last time he told me he replaced all because it was warrented.and lasted 20 miles.this really sux bad now the 5th time
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    Some of these bearings do not come pre-lubricated; and must be packed with lubricant before installation. The other issue with Metro wheel bearings is that they are available from manufacturers in several different countries. My mechanic will only use the ones which are made in Japan; although he usually tries to save money; so when he only uses Japanese bearings; you can be sure he has good reasons to do so.
  • Some times the spindle, sometimes the drum is wore out( as in the bearing floats around in the drum ) that is most likely it; or the mechanic is pounding them in with a hammer!. Or over tightening them. nothing else will do that other then no grease.
  • I have replaced the Starter, Alternator and battery.
    All I get is a clicking at the fuse box under the hood when I turn the ignition.
    Battery has a full charge. Once started the vehicle seems to run fine. Is there some other silinoid or switch I need to check?
  • i hope this is it... i questioned him on what replacement parts he used and it seems they were using 1990 geo metro and not geo metro 1992 xfi. as there were 2 different part numbers, so i hope this is it, and i'll update in a month if it works. it was close enough that it lasted about 1.5 months the third time,,( 3600 miles),, then the 4th time only about 25 miles. ()
  • my 92 Geo metro 1.0 liter automatic last week lost a lot of power while i was driving down the road something just happened so i checked the plugs and they were fine and the distributor cap was fine to and while idling in park and in drive the engine shakes pretty bad. the check engine light is also on. what are some things i can do to narrow down the problem.
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