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Geo Metro Engine Questions

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Comments

  • freemefreeme Posts: 1
    maybe ya got yer timing off?
  • Sounds like a starter problem. Make sure all battery cables are tight and clean. The ground can be your worst enemy. Try grunding the engine with a jumper cable,from negative post of battery to engine. Pull the start wire off the starter solenid and run a hot wire to the battery. Touch it to the battery and see if it turns. If it dont, good be your starter or your stater solenid. Same thing happen to me. The solenid was bad. Hope this helps.
  • Thank you so much for your helpful information. I had them change the battery cables (which looked kind of worn) like you said and since they replaced them with new cables, I have not had a problem. Pretty expensive way to find out you need new battery cables! Thanks again! :D
  • edonisedonis Posts: 2
    I may be too late to answer your question but it seemed like you had a short to ground that was draining your battery.
  • mommakmommak Posts: 1
    Ok first of all, I bought this thing because of gas prices, the hamster in it eats cheap for a week. Well the oil filter is covered, I have a rattle in the front passenger side, the ses light has been on for about a month, the code says that there is a cylinder 2 misfire, changed the plug, lost from there. And now all of the sudden my trunk wont open by the key, I have to put down the back seat and climb in and pop it from the inside, really inconvenient with kids in the back seat, and then if I have groceries in the trunk, makes it a pain as well. Someone please help!!! Thanks in advance
  • I have a 99 Metro that has a miss, or stumble, while driving. It almost feels as if I turn the ignition key off then right back on. It doesn't seem to have a miss at idle, that I can detect anyway. I've replaced the plugs, wires, cap and rotor. I also replaced the coil and that didn't help either. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
  • I had 97 geo with same problem. It was the fuel injection system. Have that checked.
  • I have a strange problem w/my 92 Metro. On cold days it will sometimes (not always) not start. It acts as if it is not getting any fuel. I have ran gas line antifreeze & parked out of the wind. But it still does it sometimes. I have not recorded if it does it less often w/ antifreeze. I live in Iowa, so winters are very cold.
    It did not do this whatsoever during warm weather, only when it got very cold.
    Any suggestions would be appreciated.
    Thanks.
  • sounds like the temp sensor is bad, and will not give it the gas that is needed to start on cold days. do you know how to get the codes out of it. under the dash is a place that say it is for codes and to remove or place a fuse in it to get the codes from the computer. don't remove the tail light fuse until you need to clear the codes the tail light fuse goes to the compute also. the codes will flash and continue to flash until you remove the fuse. if you ave an owners manual it tell you how to do this. or go to yahoos geo forum and ask them. ode carl and a few others have the procedure down pat.
  • check the air filter the filter housing has a plug that needs to be connected or it will not run/ runs bad.
  • make sure you don't have a light on. one in the trunk on sedans one in the engine bay and in the passenger compartment the courtesy light. the inside light will run for a day without draining the battery but after a few days I'm not so sure. i have left mine on by mistake and overnight it still started the next day. check this out . there is not much else on a metro that can cause what you saying.
  • take the car to auto zone and ask them to check out the bolt size and see if you can borrow the tool. they do loaner tools. or they can sell you the correct one.
  • go the the yahoo geo metro group and ask ode. or carl this question they can assist you in the repair.
  • can't adjust the newer metro timing sorry. it is what it is.
  • remove all the 10mm bolt and just pull it down. why do you want to remove it. if you have A leak remove nay old gasket if it has one and clean it real good dry it and get some rtv apply the rtv let the rtv dry for 30 minutes or so and replace the pan. that will stop any leaks. blue rtv works the best.
  • take these problems to yahoo geo groups and ask them they have most of the answers. a great merto site.
  • post this on the yahoo groups for the geo some one has done this swap out it is tough to do but you may do it. they list all the things they had to do to get it done.
  • tearing apart a 2000 metro with a 1.3l

    have to pull the cam to get head bolts out
    how do i make sure that the all valves return to top dead when reinstalling the shaft?
  • do it the same as the 1.0 engine they are the same engine only 1 more cylinder.
  • you better find a service manual for this one. if you make a mistake it could be very bad. the cams are real fussy as to there position. i removed the cams in my car to remove the head and after i discoverd the cylinders where a bit worn i just found a low mileage engine and repalce it. i was thinking hard about the cam replacment though, and i have the book. good luck. bp
  • Hello Metro - Geo- owners.
    Personally I'm really surprised about the posted questions about problems.
    The vehicle is really easy to diagnosed and fix, but most of the questioners - so call back yard mechanics - they do not have any experience to qualified to work on the cars. If you never work on cars, or your knowledge is limited, do not attempt to fix the problem, because you will create more problems that you can handle.
    Your explanation about problems i rising questions about the problem to focus on.
    One is asking question about the fuel problem, another guy is advising about dirty fuel tanks in gas stations. What is giving me conclusion - you must own gas station to keep clean fuel in the tank.
    Another guy is asking about electrical problem on the starter and lights on the dashboard - looks like he must replaced all wiring on the car, because he do not know where he can start to diagnose the problem. You do not know, that the fuse box also has ground? The starter switch can be check also? You can start the car with the ignition on and screwdriver ?
    What happen to the basics.
    You are not a doctor when you sick, you can't fix your problem with your poor knowledge. Asking questions and getting stupid answers - can cost you more than you can handle. Second, you will loose your "love" toward Geos Metro.
    The car do not "brake" easy. If you never work on cars - do not attempt to fix the "monster" with the kitchen knife and fork. You will creat more problems and you will hate this car.
    This email is only for those who thing the car is easy to fix just by asking questions.
    Mark
  • Either you are a pissed off mechanic or you think that everyone should use one. :mad:

    To everyone else thanks for your Q&A and a place to share. I recently rebuilt a 96 engine and had an unusual failure. The engine started making noise like a loose bearing so I removed it and found the crank pulley bore very loose and moving on the crank. This explained the poor idle and acceleration. I have 93-96 models and cannot find a crank pulley in my area and as this is the only model with a crank sensor I am considering changing the engine management system to a pre-96 pcm. If this is what I want to do I will need a wiring schematic for both models with pin identification for both models. Any help with the pin id's would be apperciated. T
  • rblumerblume Posts: 3
    I found the same problem on my 95,---I was able to replace the key, and put loctite (intended for rotating shafts) and tighten the crank bolt (with semi-permanent thread loc) it smoothed the car right out, be sure to replace the crank seal as it will require heat to remove assy, in the future,,, I dont know if you will have luck installing an un-worn pully as this may be a common problem,, I gave up on the search when I realized the end of the crank had worn as well, hope this helps,, (apparently some people dont appreciate the satisfaction of the underdog repairing his own car)
  • itsolditsold Posts: 1
    77,000mi.it ran and idled ruff.so I checked cyl,compression.#3 cyl.1/2 compression.
    pulled head found exhaust#3 burnt.sent out for head job.they call to tell me the head not repairable.the cam is all worn and head where it ride(bearing surface on one end).so I got a used head for them to rebuild and that will be done...what I would like to know is the why it wore out?oil flow to head bad?If so,how would I check to make it now has flow ,or that the passage way for oil to the head are clear .can I blow air in the block up that way.the engine is still in the car. the intake
    exhaust,and head are removed .looking for Ideas,and or experiences here.thank you
  • wwurstwwurst Posts: 1
    my 1993 geo metro quit running with out any warning I towed it home and found no spark and no activity from fuel pump when fuel pump is turned on I replaced the distubtor, coil, igniter on fire wall,still no spark.today I replaced the ecu and still no spark or fuel pump activity I don't know what to try next I really need help here thanks
  • I recently bought a '93 3-cyl automatic, and in temperatures well below freezing, or otherwise intermittently, it runs strongest at part throttle, and sometimes the oxygen sensor warning comes on. Fuel economy is almost cut in half. I changed the plugs and wires, and oven-dried the coil.

    Testing on a warmer day, the economy was back, but I got another engine-warning. This time, it still felt good, and speeding up a bit helped. It has also been running considerably warmer than usual. I want to know if it will be reliable for a long trip this weekend.
  • I have the same symtoms on my 96. Why would a loose pulley cause bad idle and poor acceleration? Does it effect the timing ever so slightly? Have you resolved the problem? What do you think about the "loctite" method mentioned after your post?
  • buzz11buzz11 Posts: 4
    recently had to replace the head on my 98 geo. 2 burnt exh. vlvs. number 2 and 3. got it all back together and it was running pretty good as i was setting time and idle. i shut if off as it was getting late and came out the next day and the damn thing wont start. all ign. components are new as well as the fuel press. reg. kinda screwy but im thinkin it so obvious i cant find it. im not sure what pipeman was meaning but at one time i was ase certified.....35 yrs ago. got out of it so my knuckles would heal and never got back into it. anyway any ides why would be very helpful

    thank-you :confuse:
  • After owning the car for two weeks, had been running fine. Went out to start it and never fired once just cranked over. Took the air cleaner off and it was getting fuel when being cranked. Pulled spark plug wire. Put spark plug in wire and no spark. Checked spark at end of coil wire by taking it off of cap and putting it by the block. Had very good spark. Decided to pull cap to look. Was thinking possibly cracked cap. Cap and rotor not bad but changed anyway. Not expecting car to be any different; car fired right up and has been very dependable the last 2 weeks. Went out today and had same problem . Any ideas?
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