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Geo Metro Engine Questions



  • paulp5paulp5 Posts: 3
    my 98 metro has a engine check light and my OBDII reader is giving me a code of P1530, when translated is supposed to be "Ignition timing Adjustment Circuit". Any thoughts or experience with this code would be helpful. Other than the translation, I have not found any reference to what it could possibly be in terms of what the root cause of this code is. Engine runs fine, and all else seems well.
  • I have a Canadian built 94' Geo Metro TBI 2dr HB. It dropped a valve while driving on interstate a couple years ago. I finally got around to buying a Japanese long block off ebay for it. Got everything buttoned up and now I don't have spark to the plugs. I have cleaned all the grounds and replaced the dist. cap, rotor, plugs, and plug wires. I have also made new battery cables (heavy duty cables too lol). Could this problem be from a bad coil or ECM? I tested the coil with a test light. I don't have a voltmeter. It has power going to the coil, just don't know how much though. I don't want to buy an ECM just yet because it may not be the problem. It has an automatic trans and throttle body if that makes any difference. I need to get this thing back on the road quick! Gas keeps going up and it seems there is no end in sight. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.

  • dano84dano84 Posts: 2
    You might check the relation of the shape of the belt teeth to the crank and cam gear teeth. Some years ( mostly later 94 or 95 on up) had a slightly different shape this will shorten the life of your belt. Hope this helps. Dan
  • gennsgenns Posts: 1
    Dear Dan,

    I'm having the same problem on my 98. Did you get any help and if so, would you please share!

  • latinasolatinaso Posts: 1
    I've got a strong gaseous smell coming from the exhaust of my Geo Metro 1994.
  • rmoconnrmoconn Posts: 1
    So I've had some problems with my '97 Geo Metro starting. It seems to have trouble starting if it gets cold. I took it to a mechanic and they said that I had a leaky PCV valve. They replaced it, and since then, it seems to be working a bit better. But it still chokes a lot before starting. I'm wondering if there could be another problem. I recently put a new battery in there also, so hopefully that's not the problem.
  • My service engine soon light comes on, when the car is idling is remains on steady, but once i get going it starts to blink. The owners manual states thtat a blinking light indicates an ignition problem. I changed cap,rotor, plugs and wires. and still the problem persists. I also have lack of power when taking off or up hills. any suggestions? anybody?
  • I owned a 1997 GEO Metro and the same thing happened. I replaced just about everything as well including the generator. turns out it was the battery cables were worn and had a loose connection. Once I replaced the battery cables the problem went away. don't know if that helps but that was it was on my car.
  • I just purchased a 93 Geo metro 3 cyl and had the engine rebuilt. The engine runs great except frequently, usually after topping a hill and starting downhill, the engine will cutout as if the fuel or ignition were suddenly cut off. Sometimes it only lasts for a second. Other times it lasts several seconds before it picks back up. It never does it while climbing a hill, only when the engine is unloaded. Any suggestions?
  • i have a 92 metro 4dr hatchback a/t and a 1.0L engine.I just put in a new engine and had the trans rebuilt everything on the engine is new the car ran great till i had the trans the car after it warms up idle rough and dies and wont start till it cools off completing the fan doesnt kick in till the car starts to over heat.what might be my problem
  • have a 2000 Metro with 135K on it. About two weeks ago, it would studder a little from idle then immediatly clear and run perfect. This happened a few times over a week. Then it was more frequent. Yesterday, it was constantly sputtered and backfire through intake and exhaust. The "service engine soon" light started flashing so I changed spark plugs (one was cracked). and the same thing happens. What could it be? I discconnected the injector wires (one at a time) but the difference sounded the same on all cylinders, so maybe ign. wires?
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    Sounds more like a bad distributor cap or rotor than anything else. I would only buy these parts from a NAPA parts store. There are some poor quality Metro caps and rotors out there; and NAPA is the one sure way to get a top quality ignition part.

    A bad plug wire is the second likely possibility.

    If the center insulator (on the engine end) of your spark plug was cracked; it could indicate an excessive amount of spark advance. This has the potential to cause major engine damage. I would check the ignition timing. But if the distributor cap was bad, it also could cause a plug insulator to crack. So could using a spark plug that is not the model intended for this motor.

    Some less likely possibilities are a defective ignition module, a bad coil, or a bad ignition pick up unit.

    I hope this helps!!!
  • Joel, Thanks for the response. This year does not have a distributor with cap and rotor. I have what looks like two small coil packs that bolt straight to the valve cover with a spark plug under each one. Also, each coil pack has a spark plug wire coming out, going to the other two spark plugs. I will replace these two wires with fingers crossed. If that dosen't work, I'll check ign. module, ign. pick up unit which might lead to another question on this site.
    Thanks again.
  • i have a 97 metro 3 cylinder 5 speed
    my problem is when cool and to make clear its not a over heating issue.
    i can drive it 40 miles or 10 miles shut off the engine then it wont restart
    it will turn over and act like it wants to start and sometimes will start briefly than quit. or if drive long enough will eventually stall out and not restart until oh about
    as little as an hour or as many as 2 or 3 hours then i can repeat. like this mourning i drove 10 miles stopped at a gas station let the car run idling fine go 2 more miles to the library shut it off wont start now waiting my 2 hours to start and drive again!
  • I've just overhauled the head on my engine. Upon putting it back together engine won't run. Compression: 170, 170, 165, 170. Valve timing lines-up with top and bottom marks per manufacturer's shop manual. Isolated problem to spark - I see healthy spark to both coils on first rotation, then no spark at all anywhere for subsequent crank rotations. Replaced camshaft and crankshaft sensors - no change in spark status. All wiring appears connected with good connections. Where should I look to find the ignition problem?
  • i had a similar problem with my 92.i had to change out the fan sensor,temp sensor,several vacuum lines and adjust the timing plus change the idle control valve
  • I just rebuilt the engine in the car (It sat for 10 years) The car idles great but won't revvup normally through the midrange when floored? ( it breaks up for some reason) Timing and firing order is perfect. could it be the injector. I put on a new dist. cap, plugs, wires, rotor ,and i tried a new coil with no luck. Any help would be nice -Thanks
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    I hope you're not trying to run it on ten year old fuel!!! All the old fuel must be completely drained out of the tank. You'll also need to put at least 5 gallons of fresh fuel in the tank. If you've already done this, the first thing I would do is to replace the fuel filter. It is located underneath the car, just in front of the gas tank, next to the fuel pump, on the driver's side. If that doesn't fix it, I would replace the injector. And if it still doesn't rev up properly, I would try turning the throttle position sensor a little further in the clockwise direction.

    I hope this helps!!!
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    I would replace the fuel filter. It is located underneath the car, in front of the gas tank, next to the fuel pump, on the driver's side. There is a metal cover underneath it, which has to be removed to access the filter.

    It is also a good practice to always start the car by turning the key to the position where the dashboard warning lights come on, and waiting in this position for ten full seconds; then turn the key the rest of the way to start the engine. The reason to do this is that it allows enough time for the electric fuel pump to properly prime the fuel injection system. On some cars, this can make all the difference between the engine starting, or refusing to start.

    I am hearing more and more reports from people who own many different types of vehicles, who are having this problem. It is becoming worse, as more and more oxygenating additives are being added fuel in order to reduce emissions. But this starting technique makes a huge difference!!
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    Sorry about the delayed response! I would suspect either the ignition control module, or the transistor unit. These items are pictured on Rock Auto's website, once you scroll to the right place.
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