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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair



  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    the wife has a US-market taurus with DRLs. I think they put 'em on all the fleet orders. if you bought a "program car", it was probably a fleet vehicle, and would have the DRL module.

    which is probably bad in the flash-o-matic above. get out your wallet, they are in the $300 range, roughly speaking.

    somebody had a post a year or a half year ago, that there was a patch-out connector module that allowed removal of DRLs in something or other. ask your parts man at the dealer about this, it's a darn sight cheaper.
  • Note post #2065, maybe the same as your problem. No engine codes were recoverable. I ran several cans of gas treatment through as well as injector cleaner. And I had the mystified Ford dealer change out the fuel filter. I've had no stalling since, about 3 weeks and 2000 miles.
  • All of a sudden the air will not flow through the vents for a/c or heat. What could the problem be? I checked everything and do not see where the problem is.
  • Hello, I have a 2001 Sable, with a weird problem, when the outside temperature falls below 55 deg. aprox. and I start the engine in the morning, the check engine light turns on and a misfire code is stored on the computer, the car feels bumpy too. After I drive it for a while and the engine warms up it runs smooth again, I already tuned it up and changed the coils module to try to deal with the misfire code, nevertheless I still have the problem. Any suggestion will be greatly appreciated.
  • try the 'stalk' that controls brights/turn signals.
    mine was so bad that lights would only come on when I wiggled it.
    should cost about $80 if I remember correctly.
  • i'm trying to replace my O2 sensor and my speed sensor. can anyone tell me how to do it, the needed tools, how long to set aside, etc.... i ahve a bosch premium O2 sensor and a wells speed sensor. from what it looks like i jsut need to unscrew and then attach the new parts. a visual guide would be great but i ahven't been able to find any
  • My name is Joe and I also have a 97 Taurus. I have the same problem, exactly as you described. Do you have any info on the problem? If so please responde
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    "i'm trying to replace my O2 sensor"

    Which oxygen sensor are you referring to? There are 4 of them:

    Ford Taurus/Sable 1996-1999 Repair Guide
    Vehicle Speed Sensor

    1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
    2. Raise and support the vehicle.
    3. Remove the catalytic converter Y-pipe.
    4. Unplug the VSS electrical connector.
    5. Remove the VSS protective heat shield.
    6. Remove the retaining bolt from the VSS.
    7. Lift the VSS out of the transaxle.
    8. Remove the driven gear retainer and the drive gear.

    To install:

    9. Inspect the O-ring on the sensor and replace if necessary.
    10. Install the driven gear and the retainer.
    11. Place the VSS into the transaxle.
    12. Tighten the retaining bolt to 36-53 inch lbs. (4-6 Nm).
    13. Install the VSS protective heat shield.
    14. Attach the VSS electrical connector.
    15. Install the catalytic converter Y-pipe.
    16. Lower the vehicle.
    17. Connect the negative battery cable.
  • how do i get the parking brake out of the left side rear caliper of my 95 ford taurus
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    By overhauling the caliper IF you can find rebuild parts for it. Easier to replace the caliper with a remanufactured one.
  • I have the same issue on my 1998 Ford Taurus. It has been a very cold nightmare here in Maine. Have you figured out how to repair this?
  • I have the same issue on my 1998 Ford Taurus. It has been a very cold nightmare here in Maine. Have you figured out how to repair this? This was an intermittant issue for which I took the car to a dealer during the warranty period. They said it worked fine. Now, it doesn't work at all.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    My wife explains problem. Says she drives along and then speedometer jumps downward and car acts like tranny slipping. Last part understandable if car doesn't know how fast it is going and thus don't know what gear the electrically controlled tranny should be in. Of course, first suspicion is VSS, but chilton's says a bad VSS will give check engine and set code. Neither occur.
    Vehicle is 97 Sable Wagon 3.0.

    I seldom drive car and likely my luck if I drive a distance it will act up.

    Wife took it to place I told her to stay away from because I felt it needed full scan anyway, and I know they rip people. Was told they replaced VSS because they were pretty sure that was problem and if didn't fix they'd credit toward transmission. (Do you see the scam in this)

    I guess I need to know if chiltons was correct on the code thing.

    If problem goes away and chilton is correct, then I guess that means computer has a problem. Still likely to need full scan I guess.
  • dad53dad53 Posts: 1
    My 1989 Taurus 3.0L with 130,000 miles get an oil light after 20 minutes of driving. I checked the oil pressure with a gage at 50psi before replacing the oil pressure switch, although i did not wait the 20 minutes for the oil light came on first. When the oil light comes on the engine starts making a little more noise and seems to loose power. I have not run it long after the oil light come on but later I can start the car and for the first 20 minutes it is OK again. I don't know what the repair would be or if it's worth it and I hate to just let the repair shop at it because I don't want to spend alot for them to tell me I can't afford it.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    If it didn't do it prior to previous oil change, try this. Let car sit and then change oil. It is possible that debris is in the oil and it takes about that long for enough of it to plug the screen on the oil pump. Look for signs of debris in drained oil. You might want to use cheap oil, no filter on this attempt. Or you could go straight for dropping pan to get at oil pump screen. You'd likely want to ensure it is totally clean, not partially blocked. And replace the silicone pan gasket at the same time, if not already done. Especially if mis-shaped at front end. They had a tendancy to eventually get a little brittle if old and often push out at the front end of motor. You can inspect this without any removal and should.
    If it doesn't go out completely which will show sudden oil loss, it will act like a funnel to the oil pan and water will weep into the oil. Also it is located such that if the water pump is weeping coolant, same problem. I had one that I converted to the orange coolant. Seemed to use a little over a quart between changes. And might need about a pint of coolant in same time. I had noticed that the oil filler cap was accumulating an orangish varnish like coating, but didn't realise this was the source. Vehicle milage on one about the same as yours. Other failed totally at about 170K.
  • We have a 1997 Mercury Sable wagon, which we bought used, and it has been a GREAT car! Not one bit of trouble (we of course bought the extended warranty, which means nothing will go wrong with it during the warranty period!) :D

    My question: just noticed that one of the lamps in the "third" brake light on the tailgate is burned out. Can't find info in the owner's manual about how to remove the assembly to change the lamp. Is this a do-it-yourself kind of thing? But how?? Thanks to anyone who could help... :confuse:
  • just replaced engine in 1997 taurus. car was registering hot. replaced the thermostat, saw the fans were not working, replaced the fan sencor, now they work but still registering hot. what to do next :confuse:
  • pato2pato2 Posts: 1
    can anyone heip me. i have a 93 merc sable 3.0liter control wont engage just stopped working.
    was working sometimes but now nothing. replaced the fuse
    but the old one was not bad. there is one hot wire on the 6 wire connector prong. is there a sensor somewhere? also can i remove the steering wheel with air bag if i disconnect the battery first?
  • same problem here wife says no heat most days but some times it will heat up then fade to cold. never had any problems until this. I think it is probably a vacum line or switch but would like to know if you ever got this figured out. I have a 97 gl wagon over 270K one fuel pump brakes every year new cam pos ,oxy,timing sensors its been good for the most part
  • wgreenwgreen Posts: 17
    How is the flow through your radiator?
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