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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

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  • BF Goodrich Traction T/A T rated. Also Check out tirerack.com for survey results/ratings and some other highly rated tires depending what you are able to find. I actualy have and 03 tarus wagon the continentals were ok for the first 20k but didnt have much winter traction later. replaced mine @ 52K.
  • In Texas the winter traction is not really an issue, so waiting till now... 66k miles... wasn't too much of a stretch. I'll look into the Goodrich's. Thanks.
  • gyatesgyates Posts: 55
    I put Bridgestone Turanza LS-T's on my 01 SES. Very pleased with this tire. Excellent ride, excellent handling, excellent wet weather grip. I have 35k on them so far, and they show very little wear. Rated for 80k.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,564
    Are there any current generation Taurus or Sable owners living in cold weather winter climates that have a slight muted clunk in either their rear suspension or exhaust system?

    My 2000 SES has developed this. It only shows up in cool or cold weather and disappears after a mile or less of driving. Once the suspension has been exercised a bit or the exhaust system warms up the clunk disappears completely. It doesn't bother me much currently but if it turns into something that clunks all the time I might have do something about it. Anyone out there that have had this and have a solution?
  • would like to know more about the repair, my 01 sable has been ok since I changed to motorcraft oil, but I wonder if the noise will return, is there a bulletin on it or did you find a mechanic that had figured it out
  • The chirping sound i posted about quite a while back was indeed the cam syncronizer assembly. I will leave out the names of the places i went to about this problem. The first place i went to said they could get the part from ford and install it. I did alot of research on this synchronizer so I was about 90 percent sure thats where the noise was coming from and also learned how to replace it but didnt have the tools to do it myself and probably couldnt do it even if i did. So this first place said they could do it and got the old one out and sure enough that was what was chirping. They got the new one and put it in and i noticed they didnt adjust it. The shop repair notes i got stressed how important it was to align it and that you needed a special tool to do it. This place didnt have it so while driving home to get the shop repair info to show them my check engine light came on. well long story short i had to go someplace else who had the tool and could do it right. just lost money to get it done right.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Alcon are you around? anyone know any info on this?
    Update. SES seems to go out after three cold cycles. Then returns after a few days. Anyone know of the intricate details of how this code/system works?
  • I replaced both Rotors, Pads, Brake Cylinders on rear of my 98 Taurus. I noticed that only a small portion of the pad was hitting the rotor (top portion of the outside pad, drivers side, rear). My mechanic said that it would seat properly in time. It didn't. It quickly wore that outside pad down at an angle.

    I then replaced disc pads and rotors a second time, and again the outside pad, drivers side rear is only hitting the rotor on the top. It too is beginning to wear on an angle.

    This began when the brake cylinders were both replaced on the rear of the car. The mechanic says that the cylider is functioning correctly, and doesnt know why that one outside pad continues to wear on an angle.

    Any suggestions or thoughts? Thanks in advance.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Check with your local Ford dealer's service dept re this TSB. Not sure of the contents:
    98-06-05, Transaxle - Ax4n - Torque Converter Clutch Not Engaging And/Or Diagnostic Trouble Code (Dtc) P0741 Or P1744 Stored In Memory

    Some info:

    CCM - TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH (TCC)
    The Torque Converter Clutch locks the input to output together during low-torque periods of driving. This lowers RPM and saves fuel as well as engine wear and tear. The TCC is a duty-cycle between 0 and 100% and is controlled directly by the PCM.

    There are both Electrical - P0743 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electrical

    and Mechanical checks - P1744 Torque Converter Clutch System Performance

    The following conditions have to be met before the CCM runs the TCC check:
    Conditions: Transmission Fluid Temp between 70° and 225° F and positive driving torque. The Electric check needs a Commanded TCC duty cycle of 60 to 90% with 0 RPM slip, while the mechanical check requires 60 to 100% for 0 rpm slip. The TCC is not checked while the transaxle is shifting gears.

    If the output Driver feedback circuit does not match the commanded driver state (> 1 volt if commanded on, ) the P0743 DTC is recorded. If the slip across the torque converter >100 rpm (or on some application the speed ratio <0.93%) then P1744 is recorded.
  • My dad's mechanic diagnosed the problem first. When mine started chirping, I did a search in this forum and read what other people were writing. I passed along the info to my mechanic who determined I had the same problem. Don't know how your changing oil brands would silence this type of problem. Could be just a coincidence. If so, I would expect the problem to return.
  • Have your mechanic do a search for bulletins on this. Mine found several, each one seeming to change its position on this stuff. My mechanic decided it was best just to go back to the green and stick w/ it. Less potential problems w/ gelling, + proven reliability.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    With what appears to be many problems with various long life coolants, it would seem that better information would be widely available.
    I ran across the beginnings of a class action against GM and Dexcool. Much of it sounded like BS to anyone knowledgeable but it might work for an average jury. One of the defenses GM was using, you let air get in system. OK, that might work with vehicles that had a recovery bottle so the coolant heated and under pressure wouldn't react with air. But I have an Aurora which has a pressurized reservoir much like on recent Taurus. Has to have air in bottle, says Dexcool only on the cap. And I haven't received any info such as recall or notice changing that. And you mention the green. As I recall, part of the reason for a move away from it was the composition which can clog a converter. Part of the reason for the GM change I'd bet since the allowable seepage for GM spec is so high. Yet a lot of the people in the class action were alleging plugged coolant systems, radiator, heater cores, resulting in blown head gaskets. GM certain seems to have a high rate of this in it's 3.1,3.4, & 3.8 engines. Ford also has it's problems mostly in the 3.8 and the newer Duratec. That seems odd to me since the Vulcan is the same engine with different heads which leads me to believe it is a design flaw.
    I can not help but wonder if American Automotive would be best served with a watchdog/blabber mouth organization such as the crash test people but only for durability/reliability of vehicles. It might force Detroit to build better. Something is seriously wrong when you look at the reputation of AX, AXOD, AXOD-E, AX4n, & AX4s family of tranmissions. Over 20 years of this and they haven't fixed? Yes seriously wrong.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Thanks Alcan,
    I replied yesterday but for some reason it didn't post.
    Do you understand what they mean by duty cycle?
    Quite informative is that they designed a way for the computer to ensure that the electrical circuit wasn't open.(no code p0743)
    Wife took car to shop the other day. They said new tranny. Then I learned wife added fluid. It had never lost any in the two years since flush and fill. Claimed she dumped several quarts in. WHAT?? It was at proper level less than a week before. Also found bottle that said type F. OS! Went to shop yesterday morning, checked level, vehicle cold and it was a little low, but likely correct if warmed up. They swore they never dropped pan, so where did all the fluid go??????
    Now suspect wife checked engine off. double OS! Added type F and of course way over full. Limped to shop, should have been suspicious something was going on she wasn't revealing. My stupidity for believing she was finally listening to me. And after looking under car, no major leaks present, I noticed that all the pan bolts looked very clean and dry. Some wetness around gasket, which makes me believe the pan was down and cleaned and for some reason they are lieing about dropping pan.
    Further they claimed it needed new compressor, drier, and condenser. Ok, system leaks a little each year and was tracked to a factory crimp on low pressure hose returning to compressor. I managed to tighten that crimp with more clamps to the current leak rate. Never any sign of oil on condenser and none at crimp, anymore. No mention of replacing that expensive hose assembly with the visible clamps. More Hmm! Also claimed rear seal was leaking. Well it has been leaking small amounts of oil, visible in driveway. But I'd have bet it was the oil pan gasket with mileage/age of vehicle. Been there twice before and seems rear seal is rather rare on Vulcan.
    Current plan, filter, flush and fill of tranny with correct fluid. Pray.
    Look for more info and reason TCC has been engaging early. Hopefully you can give me a hint as to what parameters are needed before TCC engages. Then pray it hasn't ate TCC by over stressing.
    The sensors in the tranny that feed the computer seem very limited and make me question why a tranny rebuild. I suspect the side pan can be gotten off without pulling.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Thanks again Alcan,
    I doing a follow on to last post as it was wandering and getting long.
    Still puzzled what is meant by duty cycle.
    Have to question what sensors are related to TCC lock. No other codes. Possible sensors in tranny would be fluid temp and turbine shaft speed. Range sensor would be external and suspect show other symptoms. VSS is external. Other electrical components are solenoids for shifting and pressure regulation. Since it seems to shift normally in every rate of acceleration except for early TCC under mild acceleration, I can't help but suspect something else is going on. To the best of my knowledge, there is no mechanical control over whether TCC is engaged or disengaged in the valve pack. Modulator valves and springs may affect the rate of engage or disengage when the TCC solenoid changes state thusly modifying how quickly the clutch itself engages or disengages. This has shown no harshness.
    Possibilities that might be related to code:
    TC clutch is slipping.
    Internal leak not allowing full apply pressure.
    Something electronic is out of range.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    "Still puzzled what is meant by duty cycle."

    Turn a light on for 3 seconds, off for 7, on for 3, off for 7. One cycle is 10 seconds, and the "on" time is 3 seconds, or 30% of the length of one cycle. This is a 30% duty cycle. Now reduce the time frame of one on-off cycle from seconds to milliseconds (1/1,000 second) and you have typical automotive electronic circuitry performance. The "on" time is also referred to as the pulse width. Typical pulse width modulated devices include fuel injectors, trans pressure control solenoids and TCC control solenoids, linear EGR valves.

    Parameters for TCC apply usually include:
    - engine warmed up
    - 3rd gear
    - minimum road speed met
    - throttle off idle
    - less than wide open throttle
    - manifold vacuum within specified parameters
    - brake pedal released

    If any of the above conditions are not met, the TCC will not apply.

    Re the F fluid, the container probably reads M2C33F. It's the early Ford fluid spec. Major difference is that it does not contain any friction modifiers, which are used to control the lockup rate of clutches and bands for smooth shifts. A complete refill with F will probably cause more abrupt clutch apply and may cause TCC shudder on apply, a small amount will probably not cause any noticable difference. Fwiw, an old trick with GM transmissions for was to fill them with F for a "shift kit in a bottle".
  • gerry53gerry53 Posts: 1
    About a week ago, the climate control system (heat/defroster/AC), regardless of the temperature setting (automatic or manual) is currently putting out air roughly the temperature of the sunny side of the planet Mercury. At first I thought the problem was only confined to the Air Conditioning as it was producing only hot air. I soon discovered that the heater/defroster was unaffected by any change in the temperature setting. It seems like the temperature control is stuck on the maximum setting.

    I have since found Technical Service Bulletin #02236 dated 11/25/2002 the summary of which states:

    CLIMATE CONTROL - ERRATIC OPERATION OF THE
    COOL/WARM FUNCTION OF THE TEMPERATURE
    CONTROL SYSTEM - REPAIR PROCEDURE FOR
    STRATIFICATION (SECONDARY) TEMPERATURE
    BLEND DOOR

    The complete text to this TSB makes references to Workshop Manual sections 501-12 and 412-04. It lists the part number as 3F1Z-19D842-AA and states the repair should take about 3 hours which includes removing and reinstalling the instrument panel.

    Please excuse my ignorance, but is this a repair that someone of modest mechanical abilities (me) could attempt to do? On another repair forum, I was told "yes it's a relatively simple repair". Yet, on another repair forum, I was told this is a very complex task involving recharging the a/c, removing the entire dash and heater core. Obviously I'm a tad confused and from what I gleaned about having a shop do the repair, I'm looking at over $600.

    If this is indeed something I could attempt, where could I find the appropriate instructions or workshop manual(s), either printed or on CD?

    Thanks for any help that you might be able to supply.

    Gerry
  • What does revving the engine while in park do to the engine?? Also, my emergency brake light is on constantly. It used to only go on while I accelerated or when I turned or when I was stopped but it seems to be on all the time now. What could be the problem? :sick: :confuse:
  • warlock1warlock1 Posts: 2
    Hey, just curious if you know anything about Ford Taurus Tranny's. I have a 2001 SEL Double OH and blew the Tranny at 180,000 miles. I found one at a junk yard, but it is for a column shift and mine is a floor shift. Everything else is the same, except for the shifter location. Will that tranny still work? I would almost think that it would only be a linkage issue and being that mine is on the floor and I have all hardware, I would be able to switch it over without a problem. HELP!!
  • warlock1warlock1 Posts: 2
    Hello All,

    I have a 2001 Taurus SEL with DHC. I travel all over the country and put over 50K a year on it. I blew the tranny this week at 180K and need to replace it quick. Mine is a floor shift and the tranny that I found is a column. The cars are exactly the same, with the exception of the shifter location. Are the tranny's the same other wise and can I use this tranny with my hardware?
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