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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair



  • tnmajortnmajor Posts: 14
    Maxi fuse is in the front right when looking at the engine compartment.Drivers side. On the outside of that fuse box you will find the maxi fuse to the left. I bet money this gets you back in action.
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 187
    tnmajor, Do you meant my radio or my alternator? I got the radio back with a yellow #20 fuse in position 17. Still no alternator :sick: .

    Friend did a volt check on the battery and it was around like 5 volts, when engine was revved it went up to about 6 or 7. He said my diode was shot, which means new alternator. Since I have the DOHC engine the alt. is hidden down below and may be $$ labor to fix. I hope you mean it's a maxi fuse for the alternator!!!
  • g8rfang8rfan Posts: 1
    In regards to Wrench2 and Bowmanjh1,
    The problem is not necessarily speeding but just sticking cable and or corroded speedo head. I just pulled my 93 Sable speedo head because Ford Wanted $600 for the head. I found corrosion where the cable ties into the back of the speedo head. My speedometer would work fine sometimes and other times it would start swinging wildly from 0 to 85mph especially on cold mornings. The speedo finally quit qorking so I pulled it out to replace the head and found the corrosion and the resulting broken upper cable half. The upper cable half on my sable had a plastic tip that turned the speedo and it had come off the cable end due to strain caused by corrosion.
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 187
    HI there, You advised me on a maxi fuse. I found it, but am afraid to touch it. I am also afraid to take it to a shop, who will put in an alternator that I might not need.

    Did you mean that the maxi fuse is for the alternator? I think that is what you meant, considering where it is. Is there a good chance that it could have blown and saved the alternator, or could it have blown and still not saved it? My batt did pick up a volt or 2 when revved. Would that happen if this fuse has blown? I'm thinking not, and that the fuse is good and alt. is not.

    I am waiting another day so my friend can check it with his volt checker (whatever you call it!). I just don't trust shops, and like to know the problem before I bring it in.

    Any more light you can shed on this situation would be great. I keep saying there should be more safeguards, I can't be the only moron. I wonder how many morons got new alternators who only needed new fuses??

    Thank you
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 187
    My "new" 2001 Taurus should have the coolant replaced.The second owner said he didn't do it, so he thinks it would be a good idea now. (He did do fuel and cabin filter, serpentine,tires, brake pads ,front rotors) I've heard this called flush and fill. Several people have told me to skip the "flush" and not to pour any other junk in there except the anti-freeze, that it will gunk it up. I'm in NJ. Any thoughts on this?

    Sound like a do-it-yourself...but I'm the one who put in my own battery and look where that got me!! (though Hubby could handle). They can't charge much for an empty and fill can they!?
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 187
    I think tnmajor is responsible for saving me time, $$ and a stomachache. I had my buddy check the darn mega fuse and that thing was BAD. Popped in the new one and my alternator is not broken after all.

    Check my other posts for all the crap that occurred after I put my battery in backwards. Total cost of repairs was $7.00 for 2 fuses. This board really helped me out. The diagnostic alone would have been $50, and who knows if they knew about the fuse. Nobody on my phone calls ever suggested it.

    Thanks again for the patience and advice from you guys. :) :D Persistance and research paid off!!!
  • tnmajortnmajor Posts: 14
    Glad to be of service. I had been through the same situation on teenagers car not long ago. Glad to be part of your US Air Force.
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 187
    I should change the coolant in my 01 w/ 85000 miles since nobody knows if or when it was done. I hear all this stuff about the heater core and I am afraid to have anybody touch the system because it never fails that when you "fix" something, something else goes wrong.

    I have read to NOT use chemical flush and been told by some folks just to drain the radiator and refill. If I have them "flush" it with water only, will I run the potential of causing the heater core or anything to go bad? All seems well with the cooling system at this point. I will be having a shop do this.

    If I have them just drain the rad. and refill it shouldn't be expensive, won't damage anything else and I could then have it done again in a year or so, which should leave me with decent coolant. Maybe by then I can learn to do it myself! Does doing this make any sense? SOmetimes I really believe in "if it ain't broke, don't fix it!" (long ago I had a "friend" do a tune-up, he stripped a cylinder or something and I'd have been better of not having it done!)
  • jasmith52jasmith52 Posts: 455
    To Flush or Not - That is the question !

    Well if you want to get all of that gunk out of the cooling system that has built up over the last 6 or 7 years then a flush is the way to go. If you just want to get some more coolant in there that is a little fresher then drain and fill the raditor.

    The reason to change the fluid in the radiator is to stop the engine from rusting away. So the question becomes how should I do this ?

    One easy way is to install a back-flush tee in one of the heater hoses and then hook up the garden hose to the tee. That will flush out the system and get rid of everything. That is a really easy thing to do that you can do yourself.

    Or if you just want to drain the radiator all you have to do is take out the bolt or loosen the valve at the bottom of the radiator. Doing that will drain the radiator. If you cant find the drain valve/bolt then just disconnect the lower radiator hose.

    Also, make sure the car has sat overnight when you do any of this so the engine and the coolant are cold. Working on a hot engine can cause problems and you could burn yourself.
  • lizettelizette Posts: 2
    This is my first time on a forum...please bare w/me! I bought a 2001 Taurus at auction. Car didn't have ANY manuals, just ONE single key, and no info on the keyless entry pad access. Was told that entering a sequence of numbers several times would allow me to change to a new code. This car has factory-installed alarm, but with just one key, there's not much I can do, either.
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 187
    THIS I can help with. I assume there is not a code in the pouch that the owner's manual is in? If you have the pouch there is a little plastic card, about 1 inch x 3 inches with the code on it. If not,you'll have to do what I did. I had to practically lay with my head under the steering wheel, by the brakes. There is a fuse box with all those little plastic fuses in it. My code was on a sticker that was partly behind the plastic back of the fusebox (on the right). I could just see a little tab of paper sticking out. I grabbed as much of it as I could and gently pulled. I pulled off a little tab that said "keycode" and that was the factory set code. THe owner book has instructions to set your own, but you need the factory one to do it. It's possible your code is somewhere else under there, so look around for stickers. It could be stuck on the SIDE of the box if it's not wrapped behind it like mine was. :)
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Posts: 2,697
    He said he did not have any manuals. He should just go to the dealer and get a spare key, buy some spare key fobs off eBay and have the dealer program them and the keypad code at the same time or don't worry about the keypad and just use the keyfobs instead.
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 187
    My driver's window starts clicking (2001) as it goes down the last 5-6 inches. Sounds like some gear or something might be sticking or breaking. Somebody advised lubing it. I've never done that, but wanted other opinions before I try it. The window seems to work properly other than the noise. I am afraid to let it all the way down for fear it will get stuck.

    Anybody ever had this noise and know what it is a sign of? Lubing can't hurt can it?
  • lizettelizette Posts: 2
    I will try my best to find this code.....THANKS SO MUCH FOR THE INFORMATION.....I REALLY APPRECIATE IT. GOD BLESS YOU.. :)
  • I've been reading the posts here and laughing my [non-permissible content removed] off.

    Fords are unreliable because the types of people who buy them don't maintain them. If you want to keep a car running like new, you have ot keep it new. But since these are such cheap cars, no one wants to spend the $$$ on maintaining them, so they fall apart, and people consider them cheap cars, and the circle is complete.

    Brake fluid should be changed every 2 years or 24,000 miles - FLUSHED, to prevent corrosion in the brake system. Brake fluid is hydroscopic, and absorbs water.

    Coolant should be flushed bi-annually as well. Use a quality coolant recommended by the manufacturer. Mix 50:50 with DISTILLED water (its 99 cents a jug so stop complaining) and use Redline water wetter.

    Transmission fluid should be FLUSHED every 3-4 years or 40,000 miles. Many complain here of transmission failures, and I am certain they are related to fluid failure. If trany fluid overheats, it turns brown and loses ALL lubricity. Check the fluid level often and check the COLOR and SMELL, too. If it smells burnt or looks brown, change it with a quality fluid.

    Water pumps on many new cars fail at 60,000 miles. If you see a small seepage at the water pump, chances are the seal is shot and coolant is in the bearings. The bearings can seize and leave you stranded when you least expect it. On some cars (like the BMW) the pump wobbles and throws off fan blades, which then puncture the hood (I kid you not). Radiator parts, coolant hoses, belts, and even water pumps, are all fairly cheap. If the car has some higher milage, consider a complete cooling system overhaul, rather than piecemeal replacement.

    Others have mentioned that these cars can be expensive to own when used. This is true for any car. If you are not handy with tools, then buy newer cars under warrenty. Leave the used cars to the shadetree mechanics....

    With proper preventative maintenance, any car can be made reliable. With no preventative maintenance, it ends up being a game of waiting for the next failure to occur.

  • jasmith52jasmith52 Posts: 455

    While you have a point that maintenance is a good thing you don't quite have the details correct.

    For my car (a 2003 model) the coolant is good for 5 years or 150k miles. You are referring to the old type coolant that is generally not used anymore. To change it more often than what is recommended is just a waste of money. Changing it more frequently won't make your car run better or be more reliable.

    The transmission fluid change interval is 24k miles not 40k as you suggest. And by the way, they use the Mercon V fluid now which is synthetic and holds up better than previous versions.

    And as you know you can change all of the fluids, watch for water pump degradation, and still have many mechanical problems.

    So while your suggestions are in the right direction, they will not prevent many expensive repairs.
  • My 98 Taurus w/dohc and 124500 miles that will not idle right. Most of the time it idles very low and rough at about 700 rpm but sometimes it idles as high as 1500 rpm. This is in gear as well as park. I drove it for two days before the check engine light came on. It has many codes all pointing to running lean. I'm sure the low idle is causing that. Any ideas as what to look at first? I'm thinking TPS or IAC. Any ideas on how to test these to avoid taking it in to be repaired? Thanks
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 187
    Looks like a new steering rack is in my future. The fluid is a little bit below min, and there are occassional spots on driveway. Drips were seen coming from the area of the rubber boot (kinky black hose). It has 85,000 miles and is "new" to us, so no idea how long leaking.

    I have seen used racks going for as low as $85-$125 and new (napa-is it new or reman?)is about $220 plus core charge. All this without upcharge by shop (how much will that be?)

    Have steering racks been a problem on these cars (2001 DOHC)? Would a used part be worth it? Do they inspect them? If there is a warranty, does it cover reinstalling it because I hear the labor is fairly high on this job?

    I wonder how long we can go if is is a small leak and we are sure to keep an eye on the fluid level? It is performing normally.
  • cubswin21cubswin21 Posts: 1
    I had my coolant flushed and changed the other day-- seemed ok, drove it for a day, and now the low coolant light is on. Reserve is full. Any ideas? Did the flush gum up the sensor? Where is it at to unplug? I looked but don't see it.

    Also, I'd like to clean out my Throttle Body, but I'm not sure where it is. Thanks!
  • I to had the warning light come on, but had ample fluid. I asked my service manager to look at, and he said often the sensor does not read correctly and suggested I add a little more coolant. He put in about a cup of green 50/50 mixture and the light did not come on. That was about 9 months ago. Since then I have added a cup once and a half-cup another time when the light came on and problem solved. The last time the fluid level is now up to the black portion of the top section of the tank. The service manager also told me that to replace the sensor one must buy a total new tank. A few cups of 50/50 mix beats buying a new tank. Hope this helps.
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