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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair



  • i am installing a stereo in my car. i went out and bought the DIN tools to take out the radio and my 1998 Sable. The left one worked fine, and got the left side out, but on the right side just slided in and i couldnt get the radio to come out. Also it never clicked. so i push the left side back in, and still cant get the right side out. Then when i got to open the left side, that one's broken now doesnt click when i push it in and it doesnt make the radio budge....what should i do?
  • I have a 1997 Ford Taurus. I have a problem with the heater core I heard nightmares on replaceing the heater core , is there any body that could help me out on how to replace and locating the heater core,

    I have heard that in order to replace the heater core you have to take down the dash board. But i really dont know were is it at. I try finding any topics dealing with my situation but since im new at this forum. i dont know from were to start.

    I would apreciate and thank , any body that would help me out.

    some effects i get from this problem is that my windshild gets foggy alot and fog from the vents come out. theres a leak i have under the car some were in the passenger side

    they had told me . that this is due to a leak on the heater core and or i have to replace some of the hoses or the heater core it self..

  • My Taurus has 115k miles and for about 6-8 mths it has been cutting out almost without stalling. I had the oil changed a few months ago and the guy there said that the wireing harness was loose. He tightened it and then taped it up he said but I may see a dimming of the lights periodically or cut out of the radio. Three months later the engine is actually cutting out now. Took it to a local muffler/engine/brake shop and they said to do a tune up. Checked my records and a tune up was done less than 3 years ago with new sparks/wires. Also said there was a nest in the engine. Changed the air filter and cleaned out the nest. It was in a space between the intake manifold and head. Problem still happeds. Now the battery light flickers on and off periodically but it doesn't coincide witht he heistations. Someone said it might be the EGR filter. I would like to get some more time out of this baby until I get a new car. Thanks
  • I have a 99 Mercury Sable and it has dayrunning lights and they look like Walker Texas Ranger lights. They blink. I don't think they go entirely off when they blink but it is so rapid that I can't tell. It actually looks like the lights law enforcement now have. What could be the problem
  • You Have all the symptoms of a bad heater core . It will need to be replaced. This is not the easiest job to do. You might want to let the professionals handle this one . Get some estimates and see if you can go with a rebuild to lower the cost. ....
    Check with your local Ford or Mercury dealer .. You may be surprised ............... Good Luck
  • You didn't mention anything about changing the fuel filter. This sounds like a partially clogged fuel filter . Does it get worse when you accelerate on a hill ? If it does .. it could be you're starving for fuel.
  • Go to Autozone website on their home page click on repair yourself then find heatercore, they have excellent manual pages and stage by stage replacement of core,Its located behind the radio and I managed through the opening. Don't forget to put your year and vehicle in. Anyone not been on the Autozone repair section, do so its well worth it and they do section by section of repairs
  • I haven't changed anything other than the air filter. It sounds like the exhaust it not getting through near where it exits the engine but when it chokes and almost stalls the headlights and dash light dim also. I don't see a differance going up a hill although after the car warms up for a while it gets a little better but not much.

  • I have a clunking noise in the front of my Mercury Sable 02 and I replaced the struts and the upper baring mounts but i still have the noise that sounds like its coming from the front of the car....anyone know what might be causing it?
    Thanks for your Time
  • I know this seems like a simple answer but the stabilizer bar links on my 98 taurus went bad and made a clunking noise. If you haven't checked them, they might be an easy fix. Hope this helps.
  • 2002 Taurus Dash Lights are not coming on with the rest of the interior/exterior lights. Would this be fuse or a bulb? Is the bulb able to reached under the dash?
  • Well I finally found out what was causing the problem. Doesn't do me any good but maybe if someone has the same problem they will be warned. The exhaust problem was actually excess water buildup coming out of the engine because the head gasket was blown. The 2nd repair shop I went to pulled one of the spark plugs and water shot out. Oh well time to get a new car.
  • mschmalmschmal Posts: 1,757
    This engine was JUNK :( You are luck you got as much out of that car as you did.

  • I have a 96 Sable:
    My car is randomly overheating, and for the most part i do not have ANY heat, the only way I can get the car warm is to put it in Neutral and get the RPM'S up over 3000 and then it spits out some heat. Does anyone have any ideas before I blow a bunch of money? I have heard HEat COre (but then i heard i would never have heat if it were that) and I also have head the Water pump? I already replaced the thermostat on it and that was not it. Any healp would be great!!! Thank you!
  • pdc99pdc99 Posts: 1
    I did a lot of searching and reading articles on the web about how to replace the rear sway bar link that was broken on the back of a 1995 Ford Taurus. This was done after I had removed the top half of the old link that was still attached to the strut/shock. The following is the sequence I did to get the sway bar link replaced. Note that I only changed the one link, not both of them. And I did not do anything to the sway bar link on the other side of the car which was still intact and completely corroded on the threads due to having 110K+ miles on it.

    To start with I removed the wheel assembly to get room to work.

    To remove the top part of the broken link rod, I ended up taking a utility knife and cutting out one of the rubber bushings and then using a compressed air powered cut off grinder to cut the bolt where the bushing use to be. This was above the washer and below the angle bracket welded to the strut.

    I then put the new link in place at the top of the link/strut assembly and tightened down the nut good and tight.

    The new link was now hanging down with the end of the link a good 1.5 to 2" below the sway bar. And no amount of tugging and yelling was getting me anywhere on putting the link end through the hole on the end of the sway bar.

    I cam real close to bagging the operation and shipping the car off to the shop and admit defeat on something that only had two nuts to connect up.

    On a whim, I placed a 8" concrete block under the rotor/hub assembly with a 2x3 on edge under the hub and lowered the car onto this arrangement. Make sure the brake rotor portion clears the concrete block when you lower the car.

    When the car was down all the way there was even more of the link end hanging below the end of the sway bar.

    Now take the car jack to the other side of the car and jack that side up in the air. As you jack the opposite side up you will find that the end of the sway bar opposite of where you are jacking actually gets lower and lower. By jacking the car up high enough to spin the tire plus a couple of inches, I was able to get the end of the sway bar to be real close to low enough to force the link into the hole where it goes.

    I carefully climbed under the car, tugged the sway bar down just a tad and was able to get the link bolt/rod into the hole in the end of the sway bar.

    With one person slowly lowering the car jack and me holding the link rod in place and aligning the bushing with the hole in the sway bar it all went well. I then put the lower bushing on the link followed by the washer and nut and then tightened the bottom nut onto the link just like the top one was.

    By the time the jack is completely lowered everything is good and tight and back to where it needs to be with the new sway bar link standing up just the way you need to have it.

    No need to do both sway bar links or muck around with the link on the other side in order to replace only one of them.

    While it took a sizeable chunk of the afternoon to work this out, I think a single sway bar link could be replaced in an hour after all the tools were in place. Naturally, I ended up with a dozen trips to get various tools that I didn't think I would need up to that point. Plus all the think time on how to get the link rod unto the hole on the end of the sway bar.

    Now, it's a cake walk without getting myself killed by parts that are under stress flying about due to removing bolts I should not have.

    Cost for the replacement link from AutoZone was $11.00.

    And I got another justification to have all those tools, air compressor and grinders. :)

    Good luck on your replacement!
  • did you do the cam and crank sensors? I have the exact same problem with my sons car. we bought it for him while he was in Iraq and have NOT been able to let him leave the house with it since... so sad!!! he is getting ready to re-deploy to Iraq again and hasn't been able to take his car to base with him yet... I would appreciate any info you can give me... please email me at as I JUST joined here and I have no CLUE as to how to find your answer in here... Thanks so much!!

    Marine MoM
  • eegguyeegguy Posts: 1
  • Probably a bent wheel, damaged tire, bent hub/spindle for sure, maybe damaged caliper and brake rotor. Let's hope the strut mounts aren't bent or the sub-frame.

    Try to stay in a good mood with this one, it could be ugly. Hope not, though.
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