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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair



  • mc_catermc_cater Posts: 1
    Hi, I am new to the site but did try looking up my problem but couldn't find anything.
    My interlocking front stabilizer bar is loose. I did talk to the dealership and they said to replace it and then I talked to someone else and they said that it could be tightened and another mechanic told me it wasn't actually needed and to ignore it. What should I actually do about it?
  • sidmanmsidmanm Posts: 1
    So, I'm interested in your thoughts on this as before I bought the Taurus in '01, I had only leased cars.
    Here is the repairs that I have had since the car rolled off the lot, minus battery / tires / routine maintenance:
    date odometer repair
    6/10/2005 60306 Transaxle Seals
    8/7/2006 79919 Transmission clogged
    2/6/2007 89649 front stabilizers, struts, coils
    2/6/2007 89642 rear break service, washer service, stabilizers
    4/4/2007 94999 tie rod, ball bearings
    4/10/2007 95288 front spring coils (recall)
    10/22/2007110142 rear drums replaced
    5/29/2008 124963 Serpentine belt, upper and lower hoses replaced
    7/17/2008 129900 new front struts (does not include new tire)

    A few obvious things -
    - I drive a car, I don't know how to fix it.
    - Either a dealership or a Goodyear Gemini Car care facility have touched it.
    - Lots of highway driving - probably 85% of the miles are highway....
    - Odo currently reads 129931.
    - OEM parts still in place include alternator, starter, and fuel pump

    My questions:
    - is this "typical" wear and tear?
    - Since end of warranty, almost $3,700 was spent on repairs (not maintenance, such as oil changes, tire rotations, etc.). All of these repairs, except for the clogged transmission, were "pre-emptive" where the tech strong suggested that this be addressed. This seems high, but I do not know...

    For what it is worth, I have never had the car break down because the maintenance has been steady, and the repairs were done to prevent a failure that would halt the car.

    Thanks for your thoughts!

  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Sounds about right for a domestic car, not out of line at all for that mileage. If you want double the dependability, pay nearly double the price, and get a Camry - you'll spend about the same because the parts are more, but less will need to be replaced in the same amount of mileage.

    Breaks, BTW are spelled Brakes. ;)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,413
    I'd agree. Those repairs sound about right for the mileage. Some people might tell you that they didn't have to do those things, but often those people just drive around with weak struts, leaking seals,etc. and don't even notice, or care. I couldn't tell you all the "great running used cars" I see where I can add up $2000 in repairs without even getting dirty looking around.

    Sounds like you give your car what it needs, and it costs something to keep a car in top notch running condition. Deferred maintenance would have allowed you to extend some of those repairs, like the seals, the struts, stabilizers, shocks, belts, etc., but then you'd have one of those cars that is in the wrecking yard at 125,000.


  • fordblue1fordblue1 Posts: 1
    3.0 Bank 2 Sensor 2 Where is it?
  • 94 ford taurus my temp gauge is not showing the car hot but it smokes and i smell it. there are times that the car wont start. i give it some time and retry to start it and it starts. it is beginning to run bad. any advice?
  • phillyjoephillyjoe Posts: 1
    '98 Sable LS 104,000 miles. Icy cold a/c until yesterday. Washed, waxed and vacuumed as the car is for sale locally. Young couple stops by to look and takes a test drive. They like the car but wonder why the a/c doesn't come out the dash vents. Impossible, I say. My daughter has been driving this car for the last 4 years to school and if the a/c wasn't working, I would have known. Sure enough, no matter what I do, the cold air comes out the floor and windshield, but no dash. Daughter confirms it was coming out the dash Friday. Did I knock something loose vacuuming? These things are run by a vacuum line and some kind of diverter flap? They really want the car and I would like to fix this as I told them everything worked. I don't want to take this to the dealer for this if I can. Any ideas?
  • rmplayerrmplayer Posts: 3
    I have a 94 taurus wagon that runs well on cold startup with reasonable power on acceleration. However when the engine temperature gauge has reached normal operating temperature after three or four blocks, the problem will be lack of power and an inability to accelerate into traffic from a stop lite. It feels like I am trying to start in second or third gear. What do you believe to be the cause?
  • rmplayerrmplayer Posts: 3
    the owners manual suggests Mercon with a postscript 'R'
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    You have a blend door stuck somewhere in there, but the fix isn't easy. You can try pounding on things under there and see if it frees up - but more than likely, the acuator has failed, and is not moving the door, OR, the vacuum line, as you said, has come loose. Probably nothing you did, these things happen randomly, but more often as a car ages. Worst case, the dash has to come out to fix it.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    Been a long time since I've posted here. I hope this helps somebody, as it's a pretty obscure problem that is tough to track down. For years I had a mysterious problem with my alarm system where it would go off for no reason. I checked and rechecked the door and hood switches, wiring, on and on, and finally learned to lock the doors without engaging the anti-theft. Well recently while replacing the DPFE, I looked up at the hood and noticed a big pile of shredded rubber. This, I discovered, was the remains of a poorly designed stop that closes the hood switch. Of course the dealer couldn't find the right part, so I rigged up another plug in its place. Problem solved.

    So for anyone having an impossible to trace alarm problem on a 96/97 Taurus, check the rubber stop on the drivers side front corner of the hood.
  • selashselash Posts: 1
    Did you get an answer on this one? I want to replace a 94 Sable AXODE from a 3.0L with a AXODE from a 3.8L Taurus. If anyone can help? Will the swap work? Complications?
  • I would like to know the wiring diagram for a Mercury Sable GS 1995. I need to know what each wires does and which one I need to eliminate. I want to keyless control box in a different car. I do not know who to wire.
    Thank you!
  • idabooidaboo Posts: 2
    2001 Ford Taurus and was wondering if anyone can tell me how to disconnect the door keypad code? I have to do this I will be out of town for 8 weeks and my kid know the code. Thanks :mad:
  • idabooidaboo Posts: 2
    yes but the code she know is the main code and you cant change that one. thats what ford tells me
  • My Grandson has just been given the car and I'm learning after the fact just how trouble prone the model is. :sick:

    Today I found that the serpentine belt tensioner pulley axle is vibrating against one of the A/C lines when the engine is idling in Drive. I was told that it doesn't make this noise when cruising on the road, and it doesn't make it when idling in Neutral or Park. This seems to indicate engine mount problems and I would appreciate comments or information which will lead me to a proper diagnosis.

    I am a retired mechanic and will probably repair this myself, providing I am able to get some guidance to any specific instructions I need. I'll buy a repair manual if I must, but would prefer something on line. I know generally, but am not familiar with this car (yet). :(

    Thanks for whatever help you can offer,
  • I guess my first post ( ) was too general as it got no reply, so let me be more specific.

    An engine lift is recommended to change one of the mounts. Which mount is this, and is it possible to change it without a lift (work-around using jacks)?

  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    You cannot change the main code, which is why you don't want to use that one generally, you want to put in a different code known to you. Then if someone finds it out, you can change it again.

    I would disconnect the battery, and lock the car up manually. It'll be safe and secure until you come home, unlock it with the key, raise the hood, and re-connect the battery. You should be fine. That's about all you can do.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    I don't know the specifics of the mounts, but you can grab factory shop manuals on ebay very cheap for your year of Sable/Taurus. They're more valuable than Haynes or Chilton's, which tend to omit a lot of critical information.

    I notice you mention the belt is "vibrating" and not just rubbing, so you may also take a look at the belt tensioner.
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