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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair



  • The lighter in my Sable came apart. Iam looking for away to take the ashtray apart,so that I can either reconnect the lighter or install a new one. I would like to have use of this, not as a smoker, but to be able to charge my phone. Any suggestions on how to take the ashtray out? Thanks
  • 2001 sable with e85 3.0 8th Vin is 2. Took to a shop and diagnosed needing tune up, did a tune up. plugs,wires,and coil. still missed. took back did throttle body clean. still miss i have done a sea foam injector cleaning,directly myself. shop used cheap plugs, so i replaced with iridiums. runs better but still misses, makes a loud Bogging type noise when you first give it gas,especially if you get on it hard. put a new air filter on. also makes a loud pinging noise when i run 87octane. new fuel filter was done. its throwing no codes and the shop wants to charge me diagnostics fee, and ive already had to pay 3.... Please help
  • Just wanted to hear if you got an answer to this post of yours. I have the same problem with a 96 Sable 3.0 DOHC. I would appreciate any word on doing this replacement as I'm another DIY guy. I just done replacing the water pump at 180k miles and that was real treat. So was wondering how much this really of a treat this will be. thanks..
  • Havn't heard a peep yet, but there is still hope...
  • cldickjrcldickjr Posts: 2
    2000 Taurus SE, 3.0; 1) Is tank removal required for fuel pump replacement?

    2) Repl. heater core, however heater only works when driving at hwy speeds;

    was told to have radiator check!? Also have noticed MANY posted issues with taurus heaters. NEED FEEDBACK on what to do next.
  • Tank removal is required to replace the fuel pump. As for the heater, it may just be that your themastat is sticking open, not allowing the engine to reach it's operating temp unless you aredriving at highway speeds.
  • cldickjrcldickjr Posts: 2
    I replaced the T-stat at the same time I replaced the heater core.
  • I thought you might have. You could have a bad t-stat. Perhaps old coolant, or even incorrect coolant for you vehicle.
  • kazajomakazajoma Posts: 1
    I took my car into my mechanic to find out what was wrong. They checked over many possible causes but didn't find anything. While there, the car didn't "act up" and therefore, they could not track the problem electronically while it was happening. I was told that many electronic problems can only be diagnosed when they are occuring in cars that are a bit older. Mine is an '01 Sable LS and apparently that was before the electronic system included some type of memory chip that can record problems that happened, even if they are not evident at the moment.
    Over the past 2 weeks this problem has happened 3 times, but not under consistent circumstances. Twice when it occurred it was after driving about 20 minutes, either in town or on highway. I had the temp set at 65 and the fan on 3. Suddenly the fan sound was very loud, but no air was coming out of any of the vents, and the heat in the car was immediate. This even happened once after starting a cold car in 20 degree weather after it had been sitting for 8+ hours. Normally it would take about 5 minutes to heat up the engine enough to start producing heat...this time in took about 40 seconds to have the loud fan sound, but no air movement, and intense heat.
    Whenever this happens, I can't change the fan or heat settings. It continues as described even after I turn the heating system off. At the same time, when this occurred and I had the radio on, I couldn't adjust the volume, change stations, or turn the radio off.
    Has anyone else heard of something like this? I'd like to avoid an expensive and exhaustive mystery hunt by a mechanic. If there's some helpful, plausible ideas on what the problem might be, and even what might have caused it, I could ask the mechanic to focus their search, on whatever may be identified via this forum, and then he could get on with repairs.
    Thanks for whatever ideas and experiences you can share!
  • timothyftimothyf Posts: 40
    Unless you have a lift, do yourself a favor and have it done at a shop. The exhaust bolts will be rusted and are impossible to get at. If the bolts break, then it's even worse. Also there's a high likelihood that one of the four O2 sensors will break when you're removing the exhaust. The cat converter should also be checked and cleaned out while you have it removed. A shop did mine, busted a bolt, and then had to run around to a dealer to find a replacement. An all day affair. If you need parts, Rock Auto has cheap cat converter parts. Best, Tim
  • Get some mass flow air sensor entire tune up, as follows, spark plus wires, coil(s) pcv valve, air filter, cabin air filter, remove egr valve and clean with some parts cleaner. buy new gasket and screen if you have it reatach remove idel air control valve all things for a tune up. as far as the clunking i am having the same issue. if you knew the asnwer to tat let me know
  • sadie11sadie11 Posts: 1
    I am having a recurring though not daily problem that drives me crazy. There are times when my idiot lights on the dash will blink on and off, my environmental control unit goes off then on, the clock goes off, back on and if I am playing my stereo, it will go off, sometimes back on or it will just stay off. I have been to the dealership twice, the only thing they fixed was my grounding issues. I have replaced my alt., starter, ignition switch and module and my wiper combination switch. All of these did need to be replaced. Now my car does all of the above but with a new twist, the engine will speed up and not always with the light thing going on. Could I have a ground issue still or do I need to replace my cables on my car? Also, when the car has had enough of all of this, it will refuse to start( all things light up when I turn the key on) and then I will have to disconnect the battery cable for a few minutes, reconnect and it will start just find, run good for a few days or so, then start all over again. I even disconnected the battery, waited 5 mins., reconnected the battery and took it on a 30 mile drive , so the computer could fix itself as my book put it. Can someone out there please help me with this problem? :confuse:
  • I have the same problem with a 2003 sable - mechanics can't find anything wrong. Did you ever find out what the problem was?
  • nh_taurusnh_taurus Posts: 2
    Good Morning, All.

    Hopefully, someone can help with this ...

    Recently, I have had problems restarting my 2001 Ford Taurus, after I have been driven it for a while. I first noticed the problem when doing errands around town. I start the car and drive to the first destination or two and car starts / restarts (sometimes a bit sluggishly). Once car seemed to warm up, it became harder to start. When i turn the key, the engine cranks VERY SLOWLY as if the battery is dying/dead. If i try to restart 2 or 3 times, i get no engine cranking noise at all.

    Last week, i went to get gas after driving about a 1/2 hour on the highway. When i went to turn the car back on, NOTHING. If i turn the key 3/4 of the way, the lights come on, the radio comes on, the windows can be put up and down, but when i turn the key to actually start the car, i HEAR NOTHING. The key turns to the end. After sitting about 20 - 30 min. the car did restart.

    The battery was replaced in November when i got the car (as was the air filter, spark plugs, etc). I just had some work done at the dealership (including new gas cap, coolant flush, etc) but have no idea why this is happening.

    Has this happened to anyone? Could it be the starter relay? The starter? Vapor Lock?
  • avneetavneet Posts: 3
    ii am having the exact same problem with my 2001 taurus se... not able to clue... one thing i noticed... when u turn the key 3/4 ... a noise come... may be the fuel pump.. when it comes.. the car starts.. if not then it doenot.. try noticing it
  • nh_taurusnh_taurus Posts: 2
    yeah - when i turn key, lights come on, and i do hear the fuel pump noise (lol - i HOPE that is the fuel pump).

    Unfortunately, i got ready for work yesterday, and the car was DEAD. Fortunately it was in my driveway and not the gas station. AAA came calling and investigated. Tech was 99% sure it was the starter but had to be towed anyway.

    Sure enough, mechanic replaced the starter and now the car runs. All i need to do is repair / replace the other faulty components...

    So, maybe your starter is on the way out? As your symptoms are different than mine, then maybe not...

    thanks for the help and good luck
  • avneetavneet Posts: 3
    I am having a strange problem with my car. It smetimes starts ad sometimes doesnot. When i turn the key 3/4(dont crank) the lights come on and a noise come (i guess the fuel pump), the car starts.If this fuel pump noise doesnot come, the car starts momentarily and the then shuts off. After 4-5 attempts its just cranks and doesnot start. It doesnot give any problems after it has started. No other problems at all. I got the fuel pressure from the fuel pump checked by attaching the pressure meter and it was fine. Can anybody please help
  • gdickeygdickey Posts: 1
    2000 Taurus Wagon DOHC - just went over 200k miles. Over the past year, I have had problems with the serpentine belt jumping off. Every time that happens (sometimes within 30 - 60 days of a new belt), the belt has a lengthwise split or cut about 6 inches long. I have thought it jumped off / up on one of the pulley wheels and split or cut it on one of the ridges before it came off completely.

    NOW, I went to put a new belt on and the tool (15 mm socket) will not pull the tensioner to release tension. The instructions indicate pulling CCW to release tension, but that actually loosens the tension wheel so that it seems to be ready to come off. When I turn CW, the bolt tightens up some, but never seems to become completely tight and still does not pull the tension wheel forward to release tension and allow me to put on the belt.

    Am I missing something? Is there a nut inside the wheel that has come off? Is the tensioner shot? Did I turn it the wrong way? CW or CCW? The Haynes Manual I have does not seem to cover this situation.
  • imy x wife owns a 95 sable.there is a vacum line missing on the left side of the mass flow. where does it connect at. :confuse:
  • I have been studying what to do about my '96 Taurus 3.0 OHV concerning it not starting. I have taken it to a 'not so hot' mechanic here and they were total idiots about what is wrong. The engine was replaced with a brand new one in 2001. Not the wiring. It now has approx. 35,000 miles on it. It quit running, at 65mph, like it was running out of gas (full tank). I have checked for gasoline pressure at the injector bank, LOTS of pressure. Didn't check injectors themselves but when I pulled every sp. plug to check for spark (all had spark), they were wet and smelled of gasoline. So I assume (?) they were getting gas. The plugs (Rapid Fire) all looked very normal with no extraordinary buildup with only normal wear etc. 8000 miles on this set.
    The mechanic did a compression check without and then with oil in the cyls. Same readings 230, 245, 160 and 175. He did nothing else except put new spark plugs in. He said the engine was shot!! Frankly, I just don't believe this as there could be too many other things that could give low compressions.
    This engine has run and started perfectly (excepting a bad VSS which I replaced) since I got it in 2002.
    I would like to do more tests on it when I get it home,
    One being a Leakdown test. Only problem is I have never done one. Can anyone explain how this is done and can I do it or do I have to take it to another shop?
    Should I rule out a bad or jumped timing chain?
    What other tests should I do concerning this low compression?
    Since it won't start, all the tests so far have had to be done only while cranking the engine with the starter. Unfortunately the OBDII does not work so I have to check things the old fashioned way.
    If you can, please HELP!
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