Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair



  • I have the Bose speakers in the corner of the window on the inside of the mirror mount. Are there any differences to removing that speaker to get to the mount for the mirror?
  • silver3bsilver3b Posts: 3
    My 1994 ended up with the same problem, car stalls out and won't start. Loud buzzing sound from door on driver side. I'm ordering a new relay, it's in the door, I followed the buzzing sound to find it. It's a small relay on a PC board that's clattering.
  • silver3bsilver3b Posts: 3
    It turned out to be a small window control relay module located inside driver's door. It would make a buzzing noise intermittently and not allow power to the fuel pump. When I installed the new relay the car started right up, installing the old relay would not allow the car to start. I have no idea how it's connected or the why. I tried to follow the wiring diagram but could not figure out why or how the defective relay would NOT allow power to the fuel pump. The relay is about $90 at a Ford place. I stopped into a used auto wrecking yard and purchased one for $5.
  • bmangbmang Posts: 1
    My Sable Wagon cranks but will not start. Symptom: While I was cranking the other day, it was just about to fire up when I heard a click, after which it would crank but not start.

    I have read other postings hear which indicate that it might just be the battery and I will try that first.

    However, I havea feeling that my problem might be elsewhere. I had assumed that the clicking meant that some computer relay had just gone kaput and that I would have to tow it in to get it put on the machine to see where the problem lies.

    Thanks in advance for any suggestions?

  • bigboy11bigboy11 Posts: 8
    I have been experiencing choppy ties, Is it due to a needed strut replacement or allingnment, I also have a question about a hard shift I have it isn't hard but noticeable, the front of my car seems to bobble around but all new joints barings an tie's rack is ok, maybe a mount , need help please, I know it is alot at once...thank u...
  • bonnied1bonnied1 Posts: 1
    were you able to get this fixed? I have the same problem with a 1997 ford taurus. drivers side window is stuck in down position and i have the part but we cant figure out how to switch old with new part if you can help I'd greatly appreciate it!! thanks!!
  • aaronsjaaronsj Posts: 2

    I have a 2002 Taurus and the cooling fan continues to run after I turn off the ignition. I have changed the relays, changed the fuses and replaced the coolant temperature sensor but the problem persists.

    Anyone have any suggestions?

  • I've a 2005 Mercury Sable.
    We discovered when the heater and fan is running, there was a rattle and smoke!
    We discovered that one of the three caps(?) on the A/C compressor had come loose, and that's where the smoking was coming from. It finally came off, and the inside is melted.
    Then, after that one came off, a 2nd one popped right off!

    What's happening? Why in the world would 2 of these caps come off on their own like that? And what caused them to melt inside? Is there some moving part they're covering?

    This started last night after we took a sharp curve to the left too fast. All of a sudden that's when the noise and smell started. Did that cause it to shift? Is it migrating off it's bolts? Is it about to come loose and crash around?

    Additional note:
    I have no idea if this is related, if it's bad or nothing... I may be paranoid, but it seems to me that the spinning pulley part on the compressor is wobbling just a teeny bit against the pink bushing or gasket (?) that's between the pulley and the three capped bolts. However, those three bolt ends and the plate at the end don't appear to move at all.

    Anyway, thanks for any suggestions or advice!
  • I have coolant boiling in reservoir and overflowing. I have replaced the thermostat water pump and flushed the radiator. After searching, all things are pointing to a head gasket issue. My question is, with 212,000 miles, should I try a head gasket sealer( and which one) or should I shell out the $ to get it repaired correctly. My plan is to keep the car at least 3 more years.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,402
    You can test for a head gasket, you don't have to guess. Have someone (or you) pressurize the cooling system, then pull the spark plugs one by one and look for coolant on them. If nothing there, then you can test the coolant in the radiator chemically, for the presence of combustion gases, because your exhaust gases are boiling water for you.

    A sealer is just an exercise in denial. It won't last and probably not even work at all, if the head gasket is actually damaged.


  • I have a 95 Sho, when the weather is warm it runs great no idle problem, but when it gets cold or rainy it stalls when I come to a stop. Now the guy that had it before me said he did a 3.2 Liter swap from an Automatic. Mine is a 5 Speed Manual Trans I took it to the shop and the guy said all the sensors that were unpluged were for the Auto Trans and wanted to charge me my first born to diagnose. I have replaced almost every sensor I can think of. Mass Airflow, Idle Air Control, TPS, Coil Pack and I did plugs and wires....I don't know what this can be. But whatever it is, it seems to be getting worse as the weather changes here in Ohio! Any Ideas?
  • Can anyone tell me where the fuel pump relay is located on a 1996 mercury sable?
  • You referring to the relay above the radiator? It's sort of a master relay.
  • that does sound very much like an alternator problem, you're not charging your battery, which should be happening when you drive. most auto shops and stores will do a test on alternator, and the cost varies, re-manufactured is good, or even just used from a wrecking yard.
  • very backyard mechanic here, have a 96 sable, am about to change the heater core as the heater only "steams" the windows, and not with warm air.

    however, the engine does not overheat, nor lose oil or water, there is a "gas" odor on the dipstick, and a creamy looking "sludge" on oil cap.

    any advice would greatly be appreciated.
  • I have a 2011 Ford Taurus SEL. When driving forward (and downward) out of my driveway onto the two-way street in front of my house, which the slope of the street becomes a slight incline, I notice a vibration either from the driver's side or the passenger side of the car, depending on whether I am turning right or left.

    The vibration occurs at slow speeds (15 - 20 MPH) AFTER completing the turn. This does not happen on level surfaces.

    I went by my Ford Dealership to take a tech for a "test drive." Failing to reproduce the vibration, while we talked, he said that both front drive axles have two halves that slide back and forth on the "spline" as the front suspension moves up and down. This section of the drive axles have a rubber boot that is sealed from the factory with grease. However, sometimes there may not be enough grease inside the grease boots.

    You may want to check to see if there is enough grease inside the boots by merely squeeziing the boots. If the boots easily compress with little or no resistance there may be little of no grease inside the boots to lubricate the sliding halves of the axles.

    Should the drive axle boots (transmission end of each axle) need grease, there is an adapter you can connect to a grease gun that is flat on one end. Loosen the clips on the rubber boots. Gently slide the flat end of the adaptor between the rubber boot and the axle.

    Next, apply enough grease from a "hand operated" grease gun to fill the rubber grease boot. Best to do this at BOTH ends of the rubber grease boots....

    Next, after completing filling the boots with grease, gently remove the adaptor and retighten the boot clips.

    NOTE: Use a hand-held, manually pumped grease gun. Using a grease gun under air pressure could put TOO MUCH grease in the boot; thereby, causing a tear or puncture in a boot!

    I recommend using "Black Moly Grease" which also contains graphite. This is a grease that can be used for ball joints as well.

    Some rear-wheel drive SUV's have drive-shafts which also have a section that slides on a spline as the rear wheels move up and down. Sometimes there is a "grease ZERK" fitting. I also recommend periodically using 'black moly grease' on this fitting as well.
  • Mines doing the same thing now my radio went out and the air conditioning did yours do that and did u fix ur problem?
  • Go ahead and buy a Taurus. Don't let all the negative press deter you. I bought my wife a 1998 Taurus with 35,000 miles on it in 1999 and it was a dependable car. We changed the regular stuff like tires and wiper blades and regular oil changes and never had any problems. With 135,000 miles on it we traded it in to buy a 2003 Taurus with 30,000 miles on it. This Taurus is a good car too. Look at your Car Fax when buying a used car. Make sure the previous owner has been doing all the service the car has needed on time. Also if the car has showed signs of being a piece of junk needing lots of work, walk away and dont buy it. I think that buying a used car with 30,000 miles on it gave me a chance to see what kind of car I would be buying.
Sign In or Register to comment.