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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,990
    can you get service like THAT?!!

    Thanks Al for that information.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    No problem, just a quick copy n' paste.
  • rustic1rustic1 Posts: 4
    Does anyone know if Chilton or Haynes will ever publish a manual for the end of the run of the Taurus and Sable? The newest Haynes manual only goes to 2001 and Chilton goes only to 1999 (!).

    I have a 2002 Sable Wagon and although I know changes are minimal between 02-present and the earlier models, I'd prefer to have the right year on the DIY repair manual I buy for my car. (plus there are some subtle differences esp with the sorta stuff I'd likely do myself)
  • mn04machmn04mach Posts: 2
    For all of those that were following by chirping and dieing engine issue, I fainlly gave up and took it into the dealer.

    There WAS an engine code, but it never threw the SES light.

    I didn't get the exact error message from the service crew, but it pointed at the Injector Driver module. They replaced it and some other piece that was "required" to be replaced when they replace that module, and at my request replaced the spark plugs, tire rotation (with which I now have a steering vibration at 60mph), and a good ole lube/oil/filter. Nearly $1000 later, the car runs fine, and the chirping is gone.

    Thanks all for your ideas!
  • luke32luke32 Posts: 3
    This past week I have added 2 bottles of power steering fluid . Just spent the better part of an hour under the car looking for leaks. Everything is dry as a bone. No spots on my driveway or parking spot at work. Where is it going?
    Also, last month the OBD gave a code for a bad upstream O2 sensor- bank 1 sensor 1.
    I replaced it (I know there are 3), cleared the code (disconnected the battery cable) and the code came back after about 5 driving cycles. Is there a way to check the 4 pin harness connection with a meter? Any advice??? :confuse: ">
  • jasmith52jasmith52 Posts: 455
    Power steering problems:

    My guess is that your power steering rack is leaking. The leak only occurs when the wheels are turned at a particular angle. So unless you park the car at that angle you won't see theleak. However as you are driving around corners in the car the fluid will indeed leak out.

    - Can't help you with the electrical codes.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    "Also, last month the OBD gave a code for a bad upstream O2 sensor- bank 1 sensor 1. "

    Not one of the 32 different 02 sensor related codes says that the sensor is bad, only that the sensor's signal return to the ECU is not within specified parameters. What was the code number?
  • ral8012ral8012 Posts: 1
    Luke- in July '04, had to replace the power steering pump (twice-- the rebuilt failed too) And still had to keep adding fluid and still had whining when turning. Shop put up on the rack and felt the boots on the power steering rack. Apparently mechanic felt something (said like a full cow) and priced a hole in the left one with his sharp pencil and all of the power steering fluid I had been adding that week came spewing forth...! Grab a bucket! Turned outto have a leak and all the fluid gathered there, so whole rack had to be replaced. Speak with your best mechanic and try it. Good luck!
  • luke32luke32 Posts: 3
    It gives the generic P0135 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

    and the Ford specific P1131 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Lean - Bank No. 1

    Someone suggested I clean the Mass Airflow Sensor, which I did with electronic spray, but still no luck.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    OK. First, verify that the harness isn't contacting the exhaust pipe, and take the sensor connector to the wiring harness apart to verify no corrosion on the terminals. If ok, then replace the sensor.
  • luke32luke32 Posts: 3
    ral8012 you are 100% correct - the boots are full of fluid. Thanks for the bad news .

    By the way...how much should I expect to pay to have that rack replaced??? :sick:
  • inabitinabit Posts: 2
    Good Day. While driving home one day, my car just up & died. I noticed a "buzzing" sound coming from the accessory relay (24 pin) when I turned the ignition on to try to start it. It is located underneath the fan shroud. To describe the sound, it's like a bumble bee stuck in a tin can. After replacing that, the sound continues. I then replaced another relay (5 pin no clue of the name, it comes up as a headlamp & horn relay on Advance's website, it was trashed and only 10 bucks so i figured, what the hay) located behind the headlight on the driver's side. No success. Then I replaced the ignition module, same thing, the bumble bee was still there. Any ideas or help would be grateful before I spend anymore $$$ on parts and bee killer. I was next thinking of replacing the stator. What do you think? Thank You.
  • ccalabroccalabro Posts: 1
    You must replace the stabilizer links on both sides of your front wheels. If you take off the front wheels you will see something in a vertical position made out of plastic,connected to the stabilizer bar. Autobarn sells these made out of steel with greasable joints for around 20 bucks each. This is a huge problem in these cars. The joints dry out and become loose. Very hard to tell until you actually take the links off.
  • jkfutureinjkfuturein Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I have been quoted $675 for Rear Brake Shoes/Drums and have been told that my brake cylinders are leaking and needs replcement too. Is this a fair price ?
    I have a 1999 Ford Taurus with 55000 Miles.

    Also they have asked me to get spark plugs changed..suggested price $130. Are these fair prices or should I go to Midas/Pepboys etc?

    Please suggest me .

    Thanks,
    jagdeep.
  • wkohlerwkohler Posts: 74
    $675 sounds terribly expensive for just rear brake shoes and drums. Did the price include the brake cylinders too? I just had the brakes on my 03 Expedition upgraded to the newer pads which included new front rotors, pads and associated hardware along with new pads on the rear with associated hardware and had the rear rotors turned. All this at a Ford dealership for about $725. Unless the vehicle is not running well and or your gas mileage is suffering, I wouldn't change the plugs at that low a mileage.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    By all means get a second opinion. Your brakes may just need new pads and turned drums. I doubt you could spend this much on even a four wheel brake job with lots of extra parts.

    You shouldn't need new plugs until 100K as that is the interval for platinum plugs in Tauri. No conventional "tuneup" required either. If it starts and runs fine and gets the same mileage as new, don't touch it except for air filter, maybe a fuel filter if it hasn't been changed.

    If your brake cylinders are leaking, you would know it by monitoring your brake reservoir near the firewall under the hood.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,953
    In order for the brake fluid to drop, those rear cylinders would REALLY have to be leaking. Those prices seem high and I would get another opinion. I would also stay WAY clear of the chains. Instead use the dealer or a trusted independant shop.

    It's possible the rear cylinders are beginning to leak a bit but I kinda doubt it.
  • lesliewlesliew Posts: 1
    Hello, I have never been in a forum before so I hope I am doing this correctly. I have big problems, and am seeking some advise from someone who knows about maintanence repair on a 2002 Ford Taurus. I was driving down the highway and my RPm would go real high and then the car would jerk and not accel any faster. I got to my destination & my car was parked for appx 30 minutes. When I tried to come home a 15 minute drive took an hour and a half. The car would not go faster than 40 mph & at times 20 mph. Then it would die completely. After it sat for 10 mins it would start up & do the same thing again. I finally made it home & then to Auto Zone the same thing happening. At Auto ZOne they hooked it up to a computer and the codes came:
    P0191 - Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor
    P0401 - Insufficient Flow EGR Valve
    P0303 - Misfire Cyl # 3
    PO316 - Misfire First 1000 Rev.
    The man at Auto Zone said that the parts I need are Factory parts. I am on a limited income & was wondering if anyone could instruct me on what to do about repairing the vehicle myself. Does anyone know exactly what parts I need for these problems the codes revealed. If you could be of any assistance please respond as soon as possible, as like most people I am dependent upon my car for transportation to from my job, So I need to find out the appx cost of what it will take to get the car fixed & possibly instructions on what to do so I can do it myself. I am going to have to try to figure how to come up with the cash for the parts, and I certainly don't think I can afford Labor Costs as well. Am I screwed, or is this a relatively easy thing to repair? Please help!
    Thanks in advance.
    If you want to send me a direct response in email relating to my car trouble please put in the subject line HELP REPAIRING 2002 FORD TAURUS
    my email is lacrazeewone@sw.rr.com. Unfortunately, right now I am ladepressed one.
    Later
    Leslie
  • A friend of mine has a 1994 Sable V-6 with about 120K miles. The transmission will not shift into gear if the car is started hot. If he drives anywhere, the car has to sit for an hour or two and cool off before the transmission will shift.

    The transmission began slipping about 6 months ago and he had the fluid changed and the radiator replaced and the problem disappeared for a while. (Keeping it in drive instead of overdrive seems to help.)

    Could there be something simple wrong like a sensor or an electrical problem? Or is a new/rebuilt transmission the only way to go?

    Anyone know of a reputable transmission shop in the Atlanta area?

    Thanks!
  • rvac88rvac88 Posts: 1
    Hey... someone with my answer.. PLEASE BE OUT THERE.

    I have a 1996 mercury sable and I was wondering if the headlights were positive side switched, or ground side switched?

    PLEASE ANSWER!!! Thanks.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    Sounds like your problems are a bit more than anyone will be able to help you in a site like this.

    I suggest you go to either a dealer or independent shop and get a diagnosis and cost estimate, which they may be able to do for little out of pocket money. It may just be a fairly inexpensive sensor or something such as that. Don't panic before you know the problems. Then perhaps you can judge whether the cost is affordable and can decide to proceed from there and maybe even make a little judgement about your ability to replace bad parts yourself.

    Note some emissions control items may be warranted longer than your initial warranty as well, so do not hesitate to ask about that.

    Do you have any ability to borrow money at reasonable rates if the repair does become expensive? At the worst, if you have a credit card, you should be able to get repairs done and pay back over an extended term. I do not recommend anyone carry a credit card balance as a habit, as you are paying near loan shark interest rates, but in this instance it may be your only choice if you cannot come up with the money for repairs.

    Good luck!
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Positive side from 30A fuse #22, through the switch, through 10A fuses #3 (left) & 4 (right), for low beams, and 15A #30, for high beams. What's the problem and does it have DRL?
  • bill10956bill10956 Posts: 1
    allright, multiple problems here, ive had this taurus going on 2 years now, its a 97 and some things started going wrong a while back, nothing that seems as though it has completely damaged the car, but here is what is wrong, right after any slightly heavy accelleration it like jumps, lurches and makes a nasty BUMP, and this is after any normal accelleration, another thing, there has been a liquid that deposits a kind of copper colored powder leaking, but i havent been able to identify the source, and the last thing, sometimes, im pretty sure this is a transmission problem, but sometimes while shifting into 4th gear it wont go into it and the rpm starts going crazy, then it slams into 4th sending the car into a crazy lurch,

    whew, thanks
  • haarishaaris Posts: 2
    my 95 SE break pedal tightens up and rises up and then i gets hard to accelerate and speed does not pick up at all as if i was driving with one foot on the break and the other on the gas pedal... and if i do accelerate it moves very slowly and the braking system grinds with the wheels and that creates smoke and a burning smell. is there a way to fix this or what could the problem be??
  • haarishaaris Posts: 2
    my 95 SE break pedal tightens up and rises up and then i gets hard to accelerate and speed does not pick up at all as if i was driving with one foot on the break and the other on the gas pedal... and if i do accelerate it moves very slowly and the braking system grinds with the wheels and that creates smoke and a burning smell. is there a way to fix this or what could the problem be??
  • I just had the sway bar links replaced on my 2001 SEL which was having the
    same sort of noise described in the earlier post. Covered by warranty (with
    a deductable).
  • stevenancystevenancy Posts: 1
    As my husband was driving to work our interior lights came on and he was afraid to leave it at work like that in case it used up the battery...he came back home I took him to work and since I have always worked on cars I thought I'd figure it out quickly. Tool box in hand, I quickly located the fuse box and knew to remove the #8 fuse for interior lights. Lowered the fuse box, then couldn't get the co :cry: ver off. Manual says "Push up at arrow and pull cover out." Sorry, there's no arrow. Both ends of the cover says "Pull" I don't want to break the darned thing, but how am I supposed to remove the cover? I read somewhere else '95 Sable has problems with interior lights staying on and someone suggested a "quick cure" was WD-40 in the door jamb and suggested it was a common problem. This didn't work. Lights are still on. Other than removing each bulb, I want to just remove the darned fuse box cover and take out the fuse until I can take it in to the dealer. Suggestions?
  • stevet269stevet269 Posts: 2
    can u tell me where the oil sensor is on a 92 merc sable wagon?
  • stevet269stevet269 Posts: 2
    anyony know where it is located ?
  • storm6storm6 Posts: 1
    I had the same problem a few days ago. If you look at the front end of your taurus and check your starter you have a cable that goes into that. I found that it was lose so I played with that a bit. Hopefully it doesn't happen again mine has been running just fine after I made the connection. I also had a mechanic look at it he could find nothing wrong with it.
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