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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

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  • cindcind Posts: 1
    Can anyone help me please? There's a locking mechanism inside my '95 Ford Taurus which locks the trunk from inside. However, when I purchased the car I was told there was no key, so it will not work. No problem, I thought, I probably would never use it any way. Well, it was pushed in accidentally the other day. So now my trunk is locked and I can't get in to it. Just found out today that I have a flat tire, the spare is in the trunk. Well, you can figure out the rest. Seems I can't win here. A Ford dealer in my area said there was a small black button under the steering wheel somewhere. Neither my boyfriend nor myself have been able to find it. Does any one out there know where this button is located? Any other suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  • calodosocalodoso Posts: 2
    I’m new to this forum and I’m trying to find an answer for a problem that I’m having with my 1997 Taurus. When I put the car in gear, some of the electric features seem to fail; the radio stays on but there is no sound, power steering goes out (gets stiff), the intermittent windshield wipers don’t work, and the power windows don’t work. The problem seems to come and go, while driving. There is also like a clicking sound every time the power steering goes out or comes back on. However, it is becoming almost permanent. Everything works fine when the car is either in P or N. Any ideas? I have asked around and nobody has any ideas.
  • trimarantrimaran Posts: 1
    New to the forum here. I have a 1995 Taurus 3.0 and need to change the starter. Is this something I can try or should I just take it to the shop? Any idea what this should cost as I haven't had to to this to any of my vehicles yet.

    Also, the A/C condenser is not working and the guy I bought it from said it would cost about $500.00 to fix. Is this accurate and is that something I can do?

    Thanks.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    If you are halfway handy, I believe you should be able to change the starter. It is located on front side of engine block, just behind radiator and near oil filter. Usually just a couple of bolts and wires to disconnect and reconnect, though I have not changed it on my Tauri, so I do not have direct experience. Take the starter off, go to a local auto parts shop with the old starter as they will give you credit for it off the rebuilt one. Parts cost shouldn't be that much, you may want to price shop by phone first.

    For AC systems you do not have the tools to evacuate and recharge the system, so you will have to let the experts do this. My experience: If you get off with only a $500 bill for fixing almost anything related to your AC system, you are getting a bargain!
  • jeff172jeff172 Posts: 2
    I have a 1998 taurus with 44,000 miles on it. I recently ran over a piece of angle iron on the highway, and blew the passenger front tire. I got a new tire. The car ran great prior to this. Now I have the following: car pulls right when accelerating, and the steering wheel pulses a bit when braking. The front tires are also visibly not parallel. The car now seems a bit loose in front. I took it into a local alignment shop to have the wheels aligned, and they told me that I need new front ball joints (both sides) for $400. Does this seem right? I don't feel right about this. Why would I need both sides if I ran over with just the passenger tire? I looked on line, and it seems that I can get the Ball joints for about $35 each. Is this work that I can do myself without any special equipment? I am an advanced amateur/fix it myself guy. Thanks.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,753
    Are normally replaced in pairs. You **can** replace just one put this usually isn't done. I know I would get them both replaced if it were my car.

    Still, I would get a second opinion. I've never heard of a ball joint being damaged by hitting something. You may have bent something under there.
  • vppcvppc Posts: 58
    Hello, everyone!

    I have a 2001 Taurus SES w/69,000 miles and was wondering about front rotors. I replaced the rotors on this car at 66,000, because the old ones were at minimum and the wheel would vibrate badly upon braking at around 40+ MPH.

    The new ones I purchased were from Auto Zone. They are VALUCRAFT and cost me $17.99 each and a local service station put them on for $30.00 - so I only paid close to $70.00 total.

    Now, it is 3,000 miles later and the rotors I think are warped. I get that same vibrating of the wheel sensation, but not as often, when I brake from higher speeds (40+). This started only last week. Prior to that, they were GREAT - no problems, but of course, they were new.

    So, my question is, is it my rotors? Did I buy cheap when I shouldn't have? Are they my tires at all? They are crappy Douglas Touring tires with only 5/32 left on the tread. Could mis-alignment or poor balance result of this problem? Maybe my rear brakes are the problem? I have newer pads/shoes all the way around; however, drums I think are original.

    Secondly, what do you all suggest for rotors? I deliver and drive on curvy roads all the time, and maybe these rotors can't handle it. I want a rotor that will withstand my driving, and not warp. Now, I could have these cut down, but I would rather just get better rotors and get it over with. If I get new rotors, should I go ahead and buy new pads? My current ones I believe are 75%. Or, should I get a brake flush?

    Please advise on how I should do this and provide rotor recommendations.

    Thanks!
    - Alex
  • tkfitztkfitz Posts: 95
    #1 have front end checked out
    #2 swap or replace tires if out of round try the rear tires if better
    #3 you get what you pay for....but before you replace brake parts see #1 and #2
    #4 always replace rotors and pads together...who wants to do the job twice?
    #5 new shoes...old drums???? You gotta be kidding.Find a better mechanic.
    Check Tire Rack etc... for pricing on better quality brake parts. Lots of good stuff out there. Hardware is cheap,labor is not.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    It could be all of those things. For $18 each, you're not getting the best quality metals. I would go up to a midgrade or premium line of rotor myself. Also have the wheel lug nuts checked for proper torque. Most independent shops don't take time to torque the lugs by hand and that is a common cause of warpe rotors.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    Sounds like a bad transmission range or "MLP" sensor.
  • mercury99mercury99 Posts: 1
    Ok I'M new to this so i hope i get help. I have a 99 mercury sable with 159K miles with a/c problems. The system seems to be working the compressor and clutch work (replaced by me 2 years ago working good) but now when i come to a stop like in traffic or a stop light for a long time the compressor clutch does not turn on anymore. Once on the road moving without any stops for a long period of time the compressor clutch starts to work. I thought it was the low pressure cycling switch but its not. Does anyone have any ideas. The system is holding pressure and is cold when working. And both cooling fans are working in the car. The gauge temp is not getting hot so i dont know what it could be. I was thinking that it maybe the temp sensor under the hood but dont know can anyone help. The car is a 3.0L SOHC GS :confuse:
  • jvd406jvd406 Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 Sable LS Premium Sedan. The front brakes have been a bit noisy from new. The dealer said everything was "normal" and I have lived with it. Besides the noise I can feel what seems like a grinding from the pedal. I replaced the rotors and pads at about 45,000 miles and now have 65,000 on the car. I put cross-drilled rotors and performance pads that were supposed to be mated to the rotors. The noise persists and is annoying. The brakes work well and the new rotors and pads stop better than the stock Ford units. There is no pulsation so the rotors are not warped. Any ideas on the cause of this noise?
  • grahamwgrahamw Posts: 1
    Geo - did you get this sorted out?

    I have the same problem. I tried the fuse box - all OK. I then wiggled the hazards back & forth and the problem was solved. It seeems like a loose/faulty hazard switch which also affects the Turn signals.

    Graham
  • jeff172jeff172 Posts: 2
    I took it to another alignment place, who seemed to think the ball oints are fine. They think it is the tie-rd on the passenger side (that is the tire that hit the bracket). They tested it by putting it on a rack, and having one guy hold the tire, and wiggle it back and forth. The other guy held on to various parts, and felt for movement. He thought the tie-rod felt loose. They do not do this work, and recommended a place down the road. Does this make sense?
  • dmwypishdmwypish Posts: 1
    Hopefully someone knows something about this car. I need a new transmission 3.0L OHV AX4N Column shift Vin U. I have been looking for a transmission for this car for a couple of months. I have contacted Ford, Mercury dealers and no one can tell me anything without a lot of money being handed over. I want to know what years of transmission is compatible with the 99. I have searched and found several trannys that are 2002, 2003 and so forth, but not a 99. The numbers of the trannys match all 3.0L OHV AX4N Column etc. but I don't know if they can be interchanged. Please help! :sick:
  • joeg3joeg3 Posts: 3
    Alcan

    I just wanted to thank you for the info on 89 Taurus clutch. Sorry it took so long to get back to you. I finished the job a couple of weeks ago and it went quite well thanks to you. My daughter is glad to get her car back and not have to worry about it.

    Thanks again,
    Joeg3
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Thanks for posting back, Joe. Glad to hear you got it sorted out.
  • vppcvppc Posts: 58
    Hello, jvd:

    Where did you purchase and how much were these performance brakes? I have a 2001 SES and am VERY interested.

    Thanks!
    - Alex

    P.S. To other responses, my front end doesn't make any noise so I know my suspension parts are good, plus they looked fine when I had my tranny flushed 2 weeks ago.
  • vishnyavishnya Posts: 1
    hi ,i would like to know how to clean rariator anr change antifreeze in tauras 2002,better to see a picture
  • jasmith52jasmith52 Posts: 455
    The easiest way is to install a backflush Tee in one of the heater hoses. You can get the Tee at any auto parts store.

    Once the tee is installed you just hook up your garden hose and it gets flushed out. If you want you can then put some radiator flush (chemical) in and let it do it's thing. Then just flush again with the backflush tee and fill it up with new coolant.

    Here's a link

    http://www.quasimotors.com/flush_tee.htm

    Caution - Only do the backflush after the car has sat many hours and is cool. Otherwise the cold water may crack the hot engine block.
  • jasmith52jasmith52 Posts: 455
    Here's another link for flushing your radiator the conventional way:

    http://ks.essortment.com/flushcarsradia_rfjd.htm
  • cbyrd9cbyrd9 Posts: 1
    After reading and searching the posts here concerning my 1987 Ford Taurus, I have to wonder if I am really lucky, or if Ford actually had a good run with them at first. I have had it for a year now (anniversary is May 30), and I have OPTIONALLY replaced the CV axles, shocks, struts, all brake pads/shoes, tires, and redoing the interior. All of the above I had professionally done by a friend, and besides normal maintenance I did myself (fuel, air, oil, tranny filters, oil changes) and some tune-up work (spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor), my Taurus has not had a problem. I did all that work after the poor old lady I bought it from just gave me a dumb look when I asked her about maintaining her car.

    It rides extremely well, better than my parents' Camry, has more power, shifts more smoothly, and is dry as a bone except for one thing.

    It is overheating and leaking coolant. I am trying to flush the system and install new hoses/water pump/thermostat, but I cannot find the engine drain plug! I have looked at Haynes and Chilton, but they just say remove the engine block drain plug. Either I am a (1) moron, (2) blind, or (3) crazy. If someone could e-mail me or post on here some help (with pictures appreciated), I would owe them.
  • patseapatsea Posts: 1
    I just bought a 2002 Ford Taurus and want to mount my radar detector on the windshield next to the rear view mirror. I want to avoid having a long power cord running all the way down to the power outlet. I would like to know where to tap into power that is switched by the ignition key. My plan is to run a concealed wire up the side of the windshield and over to the center of the winshield near the rear view mirror to power the radar detector. Any suggestions?
  • wkohlerwkohler Posts: 74
    Do you have a sun roof or an automatic dimming rear view mirror? Those would be good places. Some folks run the wiring around the molding and tap in to the outside rearview mirror. Don't ask me the specifics of "how to" though.
  • aleo101aleo101 Posts: 1
    i noticed just recently that when i step on the gas that it seems the tach runs up much higher to get my car to speed and maintain. As if the tranny is not shifting correctly. To maintain 40MPH, it is running at like 2500RPM.. 50mph is 3000RPM. How can i check to see if something is wrong. Is there something electrical in the tranny that perhaps removing the battery cable would reset, even for a brief time, so i have a point of reference?
    this is a 96 with 3.00 engine. I bought it with 120K, never did a fluid change on tranny, now has about 150K...
  • benkp1benkp1 Posts: 1
    Just because the belt is off doesn't mean it isn't the water pump. The driving axle of the pump still rotates whether the belt is on or not--I have the same chirping noise coming from my Mazda 626. The quick fix for me is to spray some WD-40 right on the driving axle of the coolant pump--the noise goes away immediately. In the case of my brother's truck, replacing the axle pin (not sure about the exact terminology here) took care of the problem and cost him between $60 and $100 for parts and labor.

    Alternatively, you can wait until you need to change your coolant pump (often around 150k miles) and get all your belts changed at the same time, just to save you the time and money of repeated visits.
  • About 3 months ago, after 60K miles, my 2000 Mercury Sable started giving me interior temperature problems. At random times, all controls to heating/AC/Radio will not work. The most annoying part is the temperature controls will not work properly. Mercury has already replaced the face plate for the temp and radio but it did not fix the problem. What is my next move?
  • did you ever find out what the problem is. I have the same problem with my 2000 sable.
  • ryno63ryno63 Posts: 10
    I need some help. I bought a 93 Taurus SHO and drove it home over three hours with no problems. The service engine soon light came on and off during the trip. Now some 500 miles later the engine stops and then starts again. It has been while going down the freeway at 70 and also at 30 in the city. Some times it cuts out only for a moment and kicks back in. Other times it stops and wont start for some time (hours). I had it towed to a repair shop. When he got to it, it started right up. No engine light and no codes on his computer?? He says maybe start with replacing the cam and crank sensors?? Any idea's as this is going to get costly replacing sensors??? It is the 3.2 with auto trans.
  • jatabtjatabt Posts: 1
    The power steering reservoir on my sable(149000K) keeps overflowing and the mechanics cannot figure out why. It only does it when working hard ie parallel parking or looking for a parking spot at a shopping mall it is fine on ordinary driving. I tried lowering the level but it did not work again the car was fine normal driving but when I used the wheel a lot to turn the fluid just froffed up again and overflowed out the reservoir??? any suggestions out there? Is my pump or rack and pinion on the way out.
    thank you Jatabt
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