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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

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  • Greetings Gurus,
    I added refrigerant to my system today, and everything went fine until.....
    When I removed the hose from the High Side (the bigger of the two) the valve inside the charging tube would not pop into place to seal the tube. I ended up discharging the entire system while attempting to get the valve to close. Wnybody else ever have this situation? Also, forgive me if I botched the names and terms of the the components listed above.

    Thanks,
    Steve
  • jvd406jvd406 Posts: 2
    Alex
    I bought the parts online and had them installed by a local Ford dealer.

    Precision Brakes Company
    476 Applegate Way
    Ashland Oregon,

    TRW Power Stop Extreme Performance Semi-metallic pads 26-598-02 $43.45
    TRW Powerstop Drilled Rotors SP-54-030 $197.50
    Installation $121.85
    total $362.80
  • blumberghblumbergh Posts: 1
    I'm planning on taking in my '03 Taurus for it's 30k maintenance schedule and the dealership mentioned the total service would be over $400 which would include a full radiator flush. I thought with the new type of coolant (orange) that the flush wasn't necessary at this stage. Also, based on Ford's documentation, they don't even list this on the 30k schedule, so I'm not sure I should have them do this. I probably would have planned on doing it around the 60k-75k range anyway, but not so early. At one point they mentioned that they need to change out all the major fluids as they are "break-in" fluids to be used in the early life of the car. About all I'm willing to let them do at this point is to do the inspections listed in Ford's booklet and the automatic transmission fluid change...but nothing more. I want to take good care of the vehicle, but not go overboard. So, is the radiator flush necessary? Is there anything else that should or should not be done at 30k that's not listed in Ford's maint. schedule? Thanks!!!
  • 307web307web Posts: 1,033
    Re-read the maintenance booklet to double check the requirements, then shop other Ford dealers for a better price.
    What mileage does the owners manual say the coolant should be replaced?
    They often have coupons and service specials so the extra services could end up costing nothing extra.
    They should also be able to simply top off the coolant and discount the cost of the flush service if it isn't needed until a later service point.
  • i ha a question.
    can ford taurus exterior parts fit the mercury sable? for example can the ford taurus bumper fit the same model year mercury sable?
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    Exterior parts will generally not fit, as the styling was changed to differentiate them from each other. Under the skin they are about the same vehicles, however.
  • bkmiles1bkmiles1 Posts: 1
    I have a 1993 Mercury Sable that stalls out after I run the air condition for about 10 minutes. Does anyone have any idea what the problem could be?
  • oxx93oxx93 Posts: 67
    Now that it is heating up and I have been running the A/C, I have noticed that it affects certain items on my car. If the a/c has been running for 10+ minutes, the steeering feels tight, the brakes feel like there are rocks bouncing around and the front suspension feels loose?. There is also a groaning noise. Anyone else notice something like this?
  • jimmy1979jimmy1979 Posts: 1
    I had my 98 taurus scanned because the check engine light was on and the transmission will not shift into 4th. The scan read trans shift solenoid. I need to know where in the transmission the solienods are located and which one is for overdrive. I called the dealerships and everyone seemed dumbfounded. I am an experienced mechanic however I do not normaly rebuild transmissions. :confuse: I would appreciate any help given, thanks.
  • vppcvppc Posts: 58
    Hello, everyone!

    I have a 2001 Taurus SES with 71,000 miles on it. I recently put (4) new GT Radial Champiro 128 H-rated tires on my car. Previously, I had worn-out Douglas Touring tires.

    Here is the thing: before purchasing the GT Radial tires, whenever I would take a curve or go up/down hills or dips - especially poorer road surfaces - I would feel a dragging sensation from the bottom of the car - like it was the tires; however, with these new H-rated performance tires, it does the SAME THING.

    So my question is what could it be? I figure it might be an alignment issue, because I didn't have one done when I bought these new tires. Secondly, it only does this with my foot on the gas. When my foot is OFF the gas IT DOES NOT DO THIS.

    I am having the dealer where I bought the car check this out. They are doing this absolutely FREE (driving it and doing a full front-end examination/diagnostic). It has been doing this since I bought it, but I passed it off as crappy tires.

    Other than this, I love my car! These new tires actually make the car handle better!

    Thanks!
    - Alex
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,855
    Do you HEAR anything?

    MODERATOR

  • brolubrolu Posts: 3
    Hi

    does anybody know what this leaking could be. It is for sure not oil, it is more like water. The fluid spot is located on the right side of the car, close to the wheel. Any idea if this could be coolant fluid or windshield washer fluid. Just by smelling at it, I can't distinguish :-(

    Regards

    Lukas
  • willis3willis3 Posts: 76
    Try placing a piece of paper under the leak to determine what fluid is dripping.

    If it's by the front passenger tire, it could be your coolant since the overflow reservoir is on this side.
  • willis3willis3 Posts: 76
    Anyone experience the fuel gauge consistently reading Full, although I know the tank is not completely full?

    This past Sunday, driving the car, have about a half tank of gas and gauge is working properly. After shopping and getting back in the car, start it up and the gauge reads 3/4. Fill the tank up and now the gas gauge needle is 1/8 past Full. My wife's driven the car 135 miles thus far and the gauge is still reading "F".

    Did the float get stuck? Anyone have a quick fix to this or should I continue to rely on watching the odometer to know when to fill the car up. I had this problem a few years back and then the gauge started working correctly again.

    Weird stuff. Thanks.
  • brolubrolu Posts: 3
    Hi

    nice hint, I will try it. It is on the front passenger tire, and the level of the coolant reservoir is pretty low.... But I couldn't find the leak so far.... Do you know about some potential places or hot spots where it always leaks?

    Regards

    Lukas
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    It is probably just water that has condensed out of your airconditioning system. When your AC is operating, it cools the air and condenses water out of the air. This runs onto the ground.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,855
    Could also be the drain for your AC system, which drains off condensed moisture.

    MODERATOR

  • criimsoidcriimsoid Posts: 1
    We just bought a used 2004 Taurus SES and have the opposite problem. The guage was on empty, when I filled it up it only took 10 gallons or so( so it must have had eight gallons when the guage said empty.) After the fill up was complete, the guage ony went to 3/4. Also, the electronic readout seems screwed up. After I filled up it said 382 miles remaining to empty. I went a 1/2 mile to my house,and the electronic read out said 322 miles remaining. It sounds like this is the same problem that people were experiencing with the Focus. Has anybody had similar problems with newer Taurus models. It is still under the 36,000 mile warranty level and I am taking it into the Ford dealer next week.
  • dilbertzzzdilbertzzz Posts: 190
    Let me see now, one Taurus fuel guage reads too high, one too low, most close to correct. So, on the average, they are perfect! ;-)
  • amp61amp61 Posts: 1
    I own a mercury sable 97. I had fault codes of camshaft sensor, and O2 Sensor heater. Camshaft sensor including the synchronizer were bad. Sable has 4 oxygen sensors, 2 banks of 2 sensors each. Disconnect each sensor checking for fault code on monitor. Bank 1, sensor 2 located near the cat-converter was defective. Afterwards, car test passed. If camshaft sensor is defective, the computer uses default ignition timing to keep car running. The symptom is engine rpm hunting on cold starts.
  • vppcvppc Posts: 58
    Hello!

    I actually had the dealer check it out for me and NOTHING IS WRONG! Three different people checked it out and they said I have no leaks and everything looks great! Nice and tight!

    They told me it could just be a characteristic, then they proceeded to tell me that they could pull up a $60K lincoln and find something they don't like. They also mentioned that Taurus/Sables have well-built struts and CV's. Much better actually than Toyota or Honda. (Toyota I knew from experience with a '98 Camry having poor struts and the numerous Honda owners I hear of having CV replacements).

    To tell you the truth, it doesn't really bother me and as far as I am concerned, these tires make the car ride firm and handle great! I can take curves 5-10 MPH faster than my previous tires.

    Not to mention, I only paid $309.44 for (4) 215/60/16 GT Radial Champiro 128 H-rated performance all-season tires. That includes lifetime rotation, lifetime balancing, lifetime free flat repair, and road hazard. Comparing everywhere else, that was a good price for type of tire.

    So, nothing wrong. YAY!

    Thanks!
    - Alex
  • crisco91crisco91 Posts: 1
    I have an 01 mercury sable that does the same thing sometimes when I am driving say 45 mph the engine will rev and i can take my foot off of the gas and never lose any speed have had the car to 2 mech they say they can't find the problem but after every time this happens the car will barley say running then it will go away for a few days then do it again anyone have any suggestions it would be greatly appreciated thanks
  • wkohlerwkohler Posts: 74
    Hope this isn't too late for you. I was out of town all last week. The only thing you need to consider is your oil and filter change and would recommed the transmission flush. After the transmission flush, pay close attention to how your transmission shifts for a period of time. Every once in a great while the filter will become dislodged during a flush if not done properly. Your wasting YOUR money having anything else done. There are no "break in" fluids put in at the factory. Some dealership trying to make some money is all you're running into here.
  • I love my Taurus. Have 300 000km on it, only work I've done is bearings and had the transmission rebuilt at 250 000. Also had the A/C repaired as part of the initial purchase agreement when I bought it at 170 000km.. has been a really faithful car. I drive it fairly hard, about 55000km a year and use it to tow and it never complains. It doesn't have the ground clearance for a lot of the driving I do, but it's a car it's not expected to be, that's the only reason I wouldn't purchase another, that and mine is never going to die, 1 000 000km here we come!
  • dmysterdmyster Posts: 12
    You seem to know a lot about transaxles, maybe you can help me.
    I bought my 2002 Mercury Sable used. Everything went fine for the first few months, then the transaxle light came on while I was on the highway. When I stopped and shut the car off and restarted it, the light was gone. But next time on the highway it was back again. After this it didn't happen again until about 2 months later. The same thing happened twice, both times on the highway at about 72 MPH. I really don't feel like sticking a bunch of money into this, but love the car. Any ideas?
  • wpanicwpanic Posts: 2
    Hi all:

    Need help with '95 Sable with 4 wheel ABS disk brakes. I replaced the rear calipers since I could not move the pistons back to reload the pads. Bled them, no problem, and all seemed to be fine.

    But, when I drive the car the rear disks now heat up significantly so I believe the calipers are dragging. (I am pretty sure they dragged at some point in the past but never really investigated). I say heat up significantly because the rears get hotter than the front and on a front wheel drive car that seems odd to me, what with most of the weight up front.

    I searched this forum looking for answers and have ruled out the MC as the fronts work great, and with the crossover plumbing, I assume one of those would be dragging. (Both rears drag)

    That leaves.... the proportioning valve and the load sensitive valve on the rear linkage. Correct? I've read others talking about deteriorating brake lines causing rear brakes to drag.... How, exactly, does that happen? Anyway, is there any other culprit lurking that could cause this problem?

    Any help is greatly appreciated otherwise the next stop is the dealer.... (shudder)
  • jasmith52jasmith52 Posts: 455
    Can't help you with proportioning valve and the load sensitive valve etc:

    My comment is that brakes get hot, really hot, and that's how you should expect them to be after the car is driven.

    Are you sure that the brakes are actually dragging ? Can you rotate the wheel when it is off the ground ? Do they smoke or something ? what evidence do you have that the brakes are dragging ?

    Also, You haven't set the parking brake too tight have you ?
  • wpanicwpanic Posts: 2
    Wait a minute... Brakes get Hot?!!!? ;)

    Ok sorry for the sarcasm, but in addition to the brakes getting hot (trust me, they're HOT)

    1) The right rear wheel "sings" at highway speeds (>50mph). Not all of the time, but often, and it stops when I tap the brake.
    2) When cold, I can rotate the rear wheels, but not as freely as the fronts
    3) No smoking but one can easily smell them
    4) As for the parking brake, the left side was sticking so I disco'd the cable while I await a replacement. The right side operates freely.
    5) Mileage is down

    Other than that, I generally feel the car, after having been driven a while ( I have a 37 mile commute through a major city ) accelerates poorly, not that it ever did accelerate great....... but you get my point.
  • crackedcracked Posts: 1
    Hi. I have a Taurus 1994 3.0 GL AXOD, 180k. So far I've replaced the water pump (130k), hoses (160k), spark wires (160k), alternator (179k), fuel pump (180k), the transmission was also rebuilt (150k).

    I have three problems if you can help:

    1. After recently changing the fuel pump due to (high speed) stalling, there is a noticeable loss in power. The car idles at a what seems like a lower rpm and the car accelerates much slower from stop. I've checked the fuel pressure and it's at 42 psi so that's not the problem.

    2. A kick is felt as the gear changes from what I guess is 2nd to 3rd when turning a corner. This may be related to the slow acceleration from stop (see 1) too . I'm guessing that the transmission is going again and maybe the air-bypass valve needs a clean/replacement. If the transmission is going, is there anything that can be done prior to total meltdown to prevent a complete rebuild?

    3. The Antilock light is stuck on. Initially, it would go on during a drive around and then reset to off when the engine was switched off. It would come on again during the next drive around etc. Eventually it stayed on.
    I've heard that the antilock light can indicate that the charging circuit is dying (people have reported that sometimes the antilock light coming on preceeds the check engine/battery light coming on by weeks/months). My alternator failed recently and was replaced, so I wonder if the antilock light problem has been fixed, but the computer hasn't reset. Anyone know how to reset it (not the OBDI but the Antilock brakes computer)? Also, anyone know how to get the codes off from the antilock computer and (importantly) where to find a list of what ABS codes mean?

    Thanks in advance for your help

    P.S. I know the quick solution is buy another car, but I can't afford much above $2000. My Taurus is pretty much at that value right now.
  • jpszinkjpszink Posts: 1
    This may seem like an odd thing to do, but oh well...

    I have a 1999 Ford Taurus SE and right now it has mechanical climate controls (you know the dials). I got a new unit on e-bay that has automatic electronic climate controls and I want to install it in my car. Of course the hookups are not the same, which is my problem. The only cable that will hookup to it is the one that also controls the audio functions. The controls will power up but they will not ACTUALLY control the climate control system because there is supposed to be another wire that goes to it.

    I called up the Ford people and they said nothing can be done, but im adventerous and dont really care if I have to tear some stuff apart to install this thing. So if anyone has every done this before or heard of this thing before that would be very helpful. Thanks!!!
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