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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

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  • zrokewl24zrokewl24 Posts: 1
    Hello, my wife and i purchased a 1995 taurus wagon (BIG mistake) When we drive with the A/C on for 10-12 miles, then get out of the car while running, with the cooling fan on, you can smell gas really bad. i've had it up on a hoist and looked at every inch of all fuel lines between the tank and the front fender where they run through a little 'C' channel up to the engine compartment. From there to the fuel rails and etc. I see no wet spots or anywhere it might be leaking. I took it to a shop and they found nothing, they also drove the car, and when they finally smelled fuel, they are telling me that it must be dumping down the exhaust and they want to do an engine diagnostics to determine where it's going. Seems to me that if the car were sending that much fuel through the motor that it would be stumbling and have severe drivability problems.. Also note that we're only getting about 120 miles to a TANK of gas. does anyone have any other ideas??? i was thinking evap canister and/or related lines, but i'm at a dead end... they're wanting to charge me 75 bucks for engine diag. ??? please help. Thanks.
  • My cruse control and horn have stopped working on my 2001 Ford Taurus wagon.
    I am thinking it could be a fuse. I can't find my manual; can anyone tell me what fuse number I should be checking? :confuse:
  • bcarebcare Posts: 1
    I ahve a 1995 Taurus and it has a small spoiler on the trunk lid. I am assuming it came like that from the factory. Inside the spoiler there is a tail light or brake light. The vehicle failed the NJ state inspection because this light didn't work. I am assuming it only needs a bulb replaced, however, I can't seem to remove the spoiler to get to the bulb housing. Anyone who knows how to do this, your help would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Bill
  • vctauvctau Posts: 6
    I have a 99 taurus with an embarassing problem. When I park the car in my office garage, the truck pops open by itself. I suspect someone's remote is crossing my remote's frequency. What can I do to stop this? is there anyother reason why this might happen? :confuse:
  • dilbertzzzdilbertzzz Posts: 190
    It's called RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) and it isn't necessarily another automotive remote. There could simply be some other radio frequencies bouncing around your parking garage (the guards walkie talkies maybe? Remote alarm sensors or cameras?) that are the source of the accidental match up to your "open trunk" command code.

    The only way I can think of to guarantee it doesn't work would be to disconnect the remote opening feature on your trunk and go back to using the key. Otherwise, just make sure your battery is good (to avoid running it down from having the trunk light on all day) and that nothing is left in the car that you can't live without.... ;)
  • vctauvctau Posts: 6
    Thanks for your reply dilbertzzz. Yeah, it might be any one of those things. How can I disconnect the remote opening feature? is there a switch or wire I need to disconnect?
  • I have a 2002 Taurus with an automatic transmission. On numerous occasions, when I come to an abrupt stop, it slips into neutral. When that happens, it will either clunk into drive or I have to shift to neutral and then back to drive to get it to occur. I took it to the dealer who just said I needed to replace the transmission, even though they are getting NO error messages on the computer, the engine light does not come on and they didn't crack the trans to look inside. I took it to a transmission specialty shop and they are hesitant to open the trans up because they cannot get any kind of error code on the computer showing there are any problems - electronic, hydraulic or otherwise. Any thoughts on what might be wrong or how it can be effectively diagnosed without opening the thing up? :confuse:
  • dilbertzzzdilbertzzz Posts: 190
    I'll have to see if I can get a chance to check the manual and fuse box tomorrow. But I'm guessing the easiest way would be to pull the fuse if they were nice enough to isolate the trunk lid remote function from the doors (probably no such luck, eh?). Otherwise, it might be easiest to reach the electrical release connection at the latch itself. Unfortunately, that would also disable the electric trunk release on the dash as well.

    Now that I think more about it, maybe it would be worth asking the dealer about reprogramming the remote frequencies? They'll probably soak you for $50 to a $100 dollars, but it might be worth it to keep the remote trunk lid functionality, though it might not guarantee that the problem is solved. Wouldn't hurt to ask them, though.
  • merbanmerban Posts: 1
    I was having transmission problem and my mechanic overhauled the transmission. However after the costly overhaul, the car won't shift to overdrive. Replace shift solenoid (I guess there were four), TPS and another sensor hooked near the air cleaner. The car still won't shift to overdrive. Does anyone suggest what could the problem be? Thanks for anyone responding to my plea.
  • Hi, I am having the same problem--did you find a solution??? On my 97 there's a clicking sound from the fuse box area when I press the down side of the switch but nothing for up. Everything else seems to be working normally. The only thing I did to the car prior to the window not working was to replace the fuse for the cigarette lighter.
    Thanks, Chas.
  • Hi all...need your help in identifying a problem. My car will stall without any warning. It will start fine and drive it to work, when I return to the parking lot to go home it will not start. Something very unusual I noticed is that when I turn the ignition key into the on position I hear the cooling fan from the radiator coming on, and the fan and AC switches are in the off position inside the car. Also, I hear the gas pump continuesly running while on contact. If I try it to crank it the engine will turn but will not start. I also notice that the check engine light will not go off.
    Here is what I have done so far. When i disconnect the battery and let it sit for a while the car's engine will start. The radiator fan will not come on and the gas pump will energized for about 20 sec and stops. The car runs fine like I said before, but then stalls...I did a complete tune up, change the spark plugs, wires, distributor and rotor. Changed the oil and filter. Checked for leaks on hoses and all seems to be fine. I checked the EEC for error codes, I do not get any. :confuse: I also tried a control module but no change. :mad: Any suggestions or ideas to help me with my commuter car is appreciated
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    "change the spark plugs, wires, distributor and rotor. Changed the oil and filter."

    Stop throwing parts at it. If the Check Engine light has been on there should be diagnostic trouble codes stored in the engine control computer. Get the codes retrieved (AutoZone will do it no charge) and post the codes.
  • Thank you Alcan for the sugestion. You see, when I get the car to start, the engine light goes off and there is no codes to check. It only comes on when the car has not been driven for a while and only then I get the fan and the gas pump going...once the fan stops running for about 5 min. then I can start the engine...I will check again the engine control computer again to see if I get any codes...any other suggestions if codes not available?
  • A couple of days ago, I pulled into a parking space and made a very sharp left turn. When I turned the steering wheel into the straight position after I pulled in, I noticed a noise coming from the front of the car. When I pulled out to go home, everytime I would turn the steering wheel, a whirring/groaning sound would come from the front of the car. It makes an almost imperceptible noise when going straight, but the load groan/grinding noise when I turn.

    I took the car to a mechanic today, and he called to tell me that my power steering fluid looked black, and that he recommended a flush to take care of the problem. I had the flush done, and when I went to pick up the car, when I made a right hand turn out of the shopping center, I noticed that when I accelerated the engine RPMs went up to 6K, the check engine light came on, and the speedometer stopped working (went down to zero). After driving for awhile, the problem seemed to take care of itself. Then, I made another sharp turn, and the speedometer stopped, and the check engine light came on and stayed on. I took it back to the mechanic (because it was NOT doing this before I took it in), and he told me that he hooked it up to the computer and it said that there was a problem with the speed sensor. He said the weather could have caused it. (Personally, I think this is crap because after he took it back and messed with it for a little while, it ran just fine).

    So, I left the shop again and everything was good. I went to make another sharp turn into a parking lot, and the noise from the engine (groaning/grinding) started again. I opened the hood, and it seemed to be coming from the area where the serpentine belt is. I just had this replaced 2 months ago, and the belt appears to be in good condition. When I turn the wheel with the engine on, it almost seems like something is rubbing one of the belts when I turn the wheel - when I was looking at the engine when I turn the wheel - it seems to vibrate a lot when the wheel is turned and it's making the groaning noise.

    So... It's not the power steering fluid. What else could it be? I have put A LOT of money into this car in the past few months, and I don't need another expensive problem.
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Posts: 33
    heater still does not work, have not spent much time on it other than playing with switches have good coolant and good gauge readings you were talking bout electrical.. are we talking fuses? or somthing else ..i did pull the daylite driving fuse but that is all about i have ever done cept changing rotors and fluids still an old lady car 49k :)
  • jrod14jrod14 Posts: 1
    Hi, I am having the same problem with my 98 Sable. The Clicking sound is from the relay that is located on top of the fuse box on the top left hand corner. It clicks only when I push the down position. When I want my window to come up, nothing happens and I do not here the clicking. If any one finds the solution to this problem, please e-mail me at drjose14@yahoo.com thank yoiu for your time in reading this message.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    I wasn't talking about anything specific electrical. Could be switches, fuses, the valve that controls coolant flow to the radiator, bad damper that controls airflow thru heater core, bad connector somewhere, etc. Lots of potential problems, that cannot be diagnosed on a discussion such as this.

    I think you are going to have to get it into a shop.

    Since when did Taurus have day time running lamps? Is yours a Canadian version?
  • First I'd like to say that I have never bought a Ford before. Fords have never liked people I know... Well... I bought a Taurus when my car axle went out... Big mistake...

    Ok... First the power steering started to fail... It had a leak, and I was putting a few containers of fluid in a week. so it was a big leak. It got to the point that fluid was just pouring out a couple minutes after I put it in. I took it to the shop and they told me that The seal in the Rack and Pinion was bad. So my dad and brother... who work on their cars constantly... changed it for me... Ever since then, the ABS light has been on... and the power steering is just "so-so."

    During the time that the power steering was leaking... I had a coolant leak start... The coolant looked almost rusted... not to mention it was overheating occassionally... So... I figured out that it was a leak in the coolant resevoir. I changed that, and while I was at it, I changed the thermostat. I put new coolant in it... But It still overheats. Almost every day now. It no longer has a leak, and I don't know what could be the problem.

    Oh yah... I forgot to mention that the heater blows air like the air conditioner would...

    So in summary... 1. The power steering still doesn't fully operate after changing the rack and pinion... 2. since changing the rack the ABS light is on constantly
    3. The car is overheating about everyday with no leak and a new thermostat
    and 4. the heater blows freezing cold air.

    CAN ANYONE PLEASE GIVE ME SOME ADVICE!!! :lemon:
    Thanks
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    There is no physical reason that changing the steering rack would cause ABS problems, unless something in the ABS system was accidentally damaged when the rack was installed. Maybe one of the ABS sensors on the wheels got damaged or disconnected, who knows?

    As far as overheating goes, you obviously have some cooling system problem somewhere. The fact your heater doesn't work must mean you are not even getting warm coolant circulating into your heater core. Is the whole cooling system-radiator and heater core plugged? Maybe your water pump is not working?

    Sounds to me like you bought this car used and it was not properly serviced and maintained by the previous owner(s)
  • Just an update on the codes...Autozone did not find any codes in the module...the problem still there...I think is something electrical or sensor that is acting up but hard to pinpoint which one...could it be the ignition switch?..any thoughts?
  • My 2004 Taurus with the 3.0 Vulcan V-6(9,000 miles) has developed an oil leak.
    The dealer replaced the oil pan gasket last week but it still leaks. The oil is
    leaking from a hole located between the oil pan and the transmission pan, on
    the bottom of the bellhousing area. Could it be a leaking rear main seal?
    9,000 miles seems premature for the main seal to fail.
  • 307web307web Posts: 1,033
    Try having the dealer look harder for the leak next time since it should be under warranty.
    The source of leaks are not impossible to find.
  • The check engine light has been on for a few weeks and now there's engine hesitation in low gears... could it be just a plug or maybe O2 sensor?? Please respond before wife gets violent.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    There was an extended warranty issued on, if I remember correctly, the "DPFE" sensor on my 2000 Taurus Duratech. If you are lucky, the problem could be this and you will get it fixed for free. I don't remember all the details as to how long the extended warranty for this particular part was, but I believe it was to 80K miles.

    Nothing has failed in this regard on mine to date, however, now at 50K miles.
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Posts: 33
    thanks man for the input i am the last guy to take a car in to a shop..... thanks anyway.... :)
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Posts: 33
    re; canuck version dont know was a leaser from cal. still got 49k on it.. :)
  • ram2442ram2442 Posts: 3
    No other symptons that I have seen. I have tried replacing the coolant temp sensor, and still no love. Wont start in the mornings without some starter fluid.
    I'm wondering is the TPS is intermittently misbehaving. I'm going to try wiping the ECM memory by pulling the fuse tonight.
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Posts: 33
    re no heat i dont understand what the deal is... i put water in it and now it works.... a a mechanic and dont undestand this concept ...nonetheless its working now be well thanx dude,,,, :)
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    You mean your radiator was low and you filled it and now the heater works? Well if your cooling system was low that would have been the first thing I checked and filled to the proper level, though that in itself might not explain why your heater core was not getting any coolant. You could have cooked your engine if you were way too low.

    I hope you aren't filling your radiator with just water. You should be filling it with at least a 50-50 mix of anitfreeze and water.
  • monireemoniree Posts: 6
    Hey, did you ever figure what was wrong? I have a 99 Merc. sable. The OD light flashes on all the time. (There is no button on the gear shift)
    I took it to the mechanic. He said bad sylanoid. But I have the same question...would that make it shift hard? A mechanic told me to change the tranny fluid...make sure it has Mercon 5, I did that but still shifts hard/jerks. I am SO tired of the jerking, and don't want to spend the $400 to fix, if the sylanoid isn't the problem. Also, I drove it 5 hours away (10 round trip) and it was fine...fyi for your 2 hour trip.
    Any ideas would help! :sick:
    Thanks!
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