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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • tig2002tig2002 Posts: 81
    Sounds like a "Freon" (R134) pressure is low due to leakage in AC system, or defective pressure sensor. I would stop by local AutoZone and buy a sensor first (around $10), replace it and see if it fixes the problem. If not, consider adding R134 in the system, but make sure to check the pressure in the system first (I believe pressure ranges, low and high, are shown on the sticker under the hood).

    I had similar problem on my Dad's '00 Taurus, started troubleshooting by adding R134 first - didn't fix it. It turned out the AC relay was defective, so I had to remove an extra R134 from the system and luckily did not damage the AC by R134 “over dosage”.
  • I have a 2003 Taurus SES with about 20K miles. I noticed from the beginning that when I turned on the AC, a smell similar to burning wire came through the vents. I have looked under the hood and have seen a "vapor" rise from back of the engine that also smells the same. Anyone have a similar problem?
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    Could possibly be a VSS (speed sensor mounted on the transmission). That sends a signal to both the speedo and the transmission telling it when to shift. Just speculation, you need to have it checked for codes by a transmission shop.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    Pretty unusual. I wouldn't even worry speculating, just take it back to the dealer if it's still under warranty.
  • tkfitztkfitz Posts: 95
    I own a 1993 Taurus with the 3.0 engine. The engine runs fine but has a tendency to plug the egr passage in the intake manifold with carbon causing my check engine light to come on. Has anyone else had this problem and if so a possible solution? Vehicle has about 150000 miles.
  • jebinc1jebinc1 Posts: 198
    What ultimately was the problem? I seem to have the same problem with the same car (year, model and engine). Thanks!
  • 2000 SE 12v has mpg dropping significantly. Ford dealer here after check says due to altitude, miles going from 320 full tank to 240 full tank. Possible suggested causes for this drop appreciated. Thanks
  • I purchased my 2002 Ford Taurus used with less than 19,000 miles in March of 2003. Within a week I noticed a problem with the defrost system. As the car would sit idling and the defrost was on the rpms would jump sporadically from the lowest reading up to the red zone. As this happened the car would sound like it was about to stall. The check engine light also would come on. I immediately returned to the dealership where I was informed this happened with Taurus' in cold weather. By the time June came the weather was warm in PA and I was running my AC. The same problem was occurring. I returned to the dealership a few more times each time being informed the problem was fixed. Now it is September of 2004 and I have no cold air blowing when my AC is on and the defrost system does not seem to work. The car continues to stall when idling and either the AC or Defrost are turned on. Of course my warranty has expired except for serious engine failures (I purchased an additional 5yr/75K warranty that only includes engine & transmission problems). I had the AC system checked by a mechanic but they could not find a leak, now they want to perform a dye test for $165 which I can't afford because I'm a college student. Does anyone have any ideas? I'm in dire need of correcting this problem! Thanks so much for your time!!
  • snowmansnowman Posts: 540
    "As the car would sit idling and the defrost was on the rpms would jump sporadically from the lowest reading up to the red zone"

    I couldn't get a good grip of the problem, but jumping to red zone looks excessive. If you have been dealing with Ford Delaership then you have a case that the same issue has been coming up over and over despite what dealership has told you. Talk to Ford Customer Service.

    For stalling issue, I believe you have clogged Idle Air Control Unit, Engine light may be related to DFPS sensor or EGR Valve. These are not expensive items and if you are technically inclined you can pull them out and inspect them except DFPS sensor. You can't opened that piece.

    First, go to AutoZone and get your CEL read, see what the code is and you can move from that point. Or post here, we'll try to guide you...
  • fdthirdfdthird Posts: 352
    I'd say that you were getting a run around from the Ford Dealer too! Saying that this happens to Taurus in the cold is just bull and what they were really saying was we don't have any desire to fix your car!

    Car Dealers - - sometimes the worst part of owning a car!
  • I had CEL lit on my Dad's '00 Taurus about two weeks ago. Since the most common problem with CEL on most cars is not tight enough fuel tank lead, I tightened it up, disconnect the "+" wire from the battery for 5-10 minutes and re-connected it. The light went off for 2 weeks and came back on last Saturday. I decided to stop by AutoZone for code check and got results of reading as code P0411. Unfortunately the sales person at AutoZone could not point to what is exactly causing the problem, but the code's description, as I remember correctly, is that something in secondary air injection line is not functioning properly. This can be an explanation of why the gas mileage (according to my Dad) went from 24-15 MPG to 20 MPG. I called local Ford dealer and asked if he can specify what exactly the problem could be caused by. Of course he asked to bring the car in for $80 diagnostic, which I don't blame him for, since this is not a type of problem that is caused by only one particular component.

    Could anyone share his experience and provide further trouble shooting steps in order to find the exact mulfanctioning component that causes the computer to generate code P0411? Has anyone had CEL to come on with such code? If so, what was the fix?

    Your feedback is greatly appreciated.
  • I'm looking for a car for my 17 year old daughter. So far the best of the bunch is a 1995 Taurus SE w/ 128,000 miles. The transmission was rebuilt at 100,000. It has a cracked radiator and a small oil leak.
    I am VERY leery of Fords - any words of wisdom? I think I should keep looking...
  • jebinc1jebinc1 Posts: 198
    Keep looking. You can pick up a 2000 - 2003 current generation Taurus for a song (and there are a lot of them out there). I picked up a 2002 SES with 30k miles for $6,600 for my 16yo son. Runs great and still under warranty!
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    I would avoid it. 98+up are the more reliable years.
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  • I took my 2000 Mercury Sable SW 24v into the dealer for the 60000 mile check up and got back a $2800 estimate for a bunch of repairs. One of the big ones was $671 to replace the valve cover gaskets. Then an extra $350 to clean the throttle body since he would have to move it out of the way to get to the back gasket. Does this sound like a reasonable estimate? Has anybody else had this done? Thanks.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,564
    Do you have oil leaking out of the valve covers? If not, you don't need the work, and a small amount of seapage won't hurt anything anyway.

    I also would doubt you really need $2800 in "repairs". Sounds to me like this dealer is trying to pack you with unneeded service.

    If you have no known driveability issues, ie the engine starts OK, runs OK, mileage is OK and transmission shifts OK, AC works, no coolant or transmission oil leaks, etc., I would just have them do the recommended maintenance in the book and nothing else.

    If in doubt, go get a second opinion and consider not going to that dealer again. Try an independent shop as well. Taurus has been around a long time and lots of shops can work on them and typically for much less money than dealer shops.
  • fdthirdfdthird Posts: 352
    This is a long standing bug a boo. Ford says that at 5,000 miles you change the oil and filter, but by the time the dealer is finished with his laundry list of "needed items", you've spent $100 for that oil change on your brand new car! As the mileage goes up its gets even worse. Its almost as bad as going to one of the quick oil change places and have them try to sell you everything from radiator flushes to transmission service!

    Sorry, but too often its just a way for the dealer to pad the Service Dept's profit. I agree...find an honest independent shop with mechanics who know how to fix cars and who know what the manufacturers require for the various service intervals!
  • If we follow logic, as the vehicle ages its components need more work and that means more time the "technician" spends working on the car. However, new cars come with fewer maintenance requirements than before. That means that dealers' service departments may not see the particular car as often.

    If you speak to FoMoCo, its "dealers are independently owned and operated". They have free reign to charge you whatever they want with the excuse that they know your car. At $80.00 + hourly labor rate you know what you're in for the minute you drive into their shop. Yes they have at their disposal state of the art latest equipment and they're also on line with Ford's data base.

    My trusty mechanic has a family owned 12 bay shop and charges $40 and hour. The shop doesn't work on my car for free but I never felt ripped off either. These guys follow the manufacturer's schedule. Dealers at first tend to follow the manual but along the way they push things to increase the bill. Your car is already in the shop and you are at their mercy. Should you be assertive and say no there is no telling what they might do to your car.
  • snowmansnowman Posts: 540
    Last time I had V.Cover gasket changed, I paid $60. I cleaned my T.Body within 45 minutes by 2 cans of TB cleaner and TB gasket for $6. You figure...
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