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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

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  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    no further issues after replacing the one bad (intermittent) O2 sensor. we DO have good acceleration and excellent highway operation on the car now, so what we've got does not act like a dead cat at this time.
  • Did you ever get an answer or otherwise figure this out? I looked through several pages of messages after yours and could not find a reply. The power seat on my 1999 Sable stopped working, and I suspect the switch. What did you do to confirm the problem was the switch and not the motor? Have not tried to replace it yet, but I anticipate I will face the same problem you had.
  • Just purchased this taurus LX with 174k and had a trans leak which was sealed, after doing this engine light came on and diagnostic read O2 sensor on a down pipe and one in the trans. So after getting the trans rebuilt the car was on a trip for 3 hours and had no problem. On the trip back it suddenly loss power at the gas pedal, the car was still on, just no power at the pedal. It kicks back in after about 5 seconds. It also revs while this "stall" is happening but no go. I haven't yet replaced the O2 sensor because they tell me that that has nothing to do with it. Also another funny thing is that the car was about 80% full of water in the coolant tank. Drained and filled with coolant and confused about this high speed stalling.
    Could it be a fuel filter or pump?? PLEASEEEEEEE HELP
  • did you find the part and how to install?
  • WHAT DID YOU FIND OUT ABOUT CLEANING THE THROTTLE BODY OF THE SABLE/TAURUS. I CAME ACROSS THE SAME STICKER. THERE HAS GOT TO BE A PROCEDURE FOR THE SHADE TREE MECHANIC TO PREFORM THIS ON YOUR OWN. I TOOK MINE TO DEALER THE CHARGES WERE OUTRAGEOUS. TALK ABOUT BEING TAKEN TO THE CLEANERS.
  • clindclind Posts: 2
    Recently purchased an 01 Sable and the check engine was on. The check engine light would stay on for a couple days and then go out on its own. I also noticed that right before the light would come on, my fuel guage needle would shoot up to FULL (even if I only had a 1/4 tank of gas. Dianostics indicated it was a low fuel sensor, so the fuel pump/sender was replaced. About a week later I got in to start the car and noticed that again, my fuel need shot up to FULL (even though I only had a 1/2 tank gas). About 10 minutes later, the check engine light came back on. Scheduling to bring the car back in for service, but I know that diagnostics is going to bring up the same code. Anyone ever have this problem???????
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Which diagnostic code numbers were retrieved?
  • rayqrayq Posts: 2
    Car runs fine for about 10 minutes then when I come to a stop it labors to get in gear then once it does car runs fine.Someone told me it could be the torque converter and if it is, does this mean I would need a new transmission.If not how big a job would a torque converter be,(Car has 108k). Thank You
  • bosufbosuf Posts: 1
    Did you ever find out what the problem was with your car i am having the same troubles with a 97 ford taurus? Your help would be greatly appreciated. thanks
  • Power steering died on me, so I changed the pump, could it be that rack that is the problem, and if so how difficult is it to swap out??
  • rayqrayq Posts: 2
    Car runs fine for about 10 minutes then when I come to a stop it labors to get in gear then once it does car runs fine.Someone told me it could be the torque converter and if it is, does this mean I would need a new transmission.If not how big a job would a torque converter be,(Car has 108k). Thank You
  • Hello. I just wanted to write real quick because my 99 Taurus is having the exact same problem! It started one morning, the heat was working fine....then all of a sudden, it got really cold. I noticed at that time that my car started to get really hot, then cool down. It did that a couple times, and it's never done it since. But instead of getting hot, when i start my car, it will get warm where it's suppose to be, but when i give it gas to take off, it gets cold. The heat doesn't work, only from the vent. And on top of that, somehow I'm losing power steering fluid and it squeeks when I turn my wheel to the left. I've tried changing the thermostat, flushing the radiator, but I don't know what else to do other than the heater core, and I've heard that's a job! Have you figured out what it was yet?? If you have, please let me know. And I'll do the same for you! Thank you.
  • clindclind Posts: 2
    Code po 460 - Which indicated that Fuel level sensor. This was replaced, but the problem is still happening.
    I was told that it may now be the "Flex Fuel Sensor"??? Does this seem right?
  • MY wipers no longer function properly. I diagnosed that the problem is not the wiper motor but it is the pivot part attached to the motor and transmission arms. My problem is that I cannot figure out how to remove this pivot from the wiper motor. I removed every screw that I could possibly found on the pivot and it still will not come off. Iff anyone can help it would GREAT. Please email me ASAP. I can't drive without wipers especially with the snow coming.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    did it with my exploder a year or so back, no big deal. you do need to get the right cleaner, throttle body cleaner... there is probably a coating inside the throttle body to smooth it, and carb cleaner can dissolve it. scafre up a little WD-40 or other light silicone, too. get lots of T-shirt rags and maybe a pipe cleaner or two.

    you need to remove the plastic cover from the throttle cables, remove the intake hose from the air cleaner to the throttle body, and remove the IAC valve from on top the throttle body.

    REALIZE that this car is not going to start for a while, nor run well, when you have finished, because of all the low-volatility cleaner that will drool into the intake.

    that said... only one other caution. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES WHATEVER, absolutely by gollies DO NOT MONKEY with the THROTTLE PLATE! you will wreck it. no pressure on that plate. open it by pulling on the throttle, where the cables attach.

    now, the procedure. shoot a little throttle body cleaner into the IAC channels atop the throttle body, open the throttle, and shoot a little cleaner in there and on the plate, coat it moderately well. go back to the IAC channels and spray again, then use pipe cleaners to get the goo dislodged, and spray it away. open the throttle again, spray some more cleaner, and use folded-over T-shirt rags (so no strings get caught on stuff) and light finger pressure to gently rub the grunge out of the throttle and off the throttle plate on both sides. I said LIGHT pressure, like you were smoothing over a baby's eyes.

    keep it up with solvent until the rags come away clean. put it all together again. you're working with aluminum here, don't overtighten things... finger-tight and a quarter-turn extra MAX when putting the IAC valve back on. be sure to reconnect its electrical connector.

    now, the starting. what I did with mine, I cranked 15-20 seconds, listened to a song all the way through on the ol' CD player, then cranked again. eventually the truck started, and your car should, too. it will run rough and smoky for a couple minutes, then you've gotten rid of all the solvent, and all should be well.
  • grungrun Posts: 2
    99 taurus. 3.0 OHV. Very little heat inside car. Put in a flush tee,took opposite end of hose off heater core and flushed water through.. had good flow.. replaced thermostat,radiator cap, and the water pump..,d say heat works 10% better. What is the next step? The air is not very powerful blowing out of the vents,defrost,or heat vents... also the hose going into the heater core is very hot but the outlet hose is barely warm,is it possible that the heater core is still plugged even though I have good flow from the inlet to the outlet ???
  • maybe if i drive it off the cliff!!!
  • my daytime driving lights flash on and off as fast as a police cars headlights flash but work fine as soon as the headlight switch is turned on???
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    Tauri do not have "daytime driving lights", at least not US versions. Canadian versions probably do have daytime running lights. Do you have your emergency flasher activated by accident and that is what is flashing?
  • I have a 1999 taurus that is equipped with daytime running lights.My owners manual talks a little about it but of course doesn't talk about troubleshooting.My four way flashers are not on and all i need to know is why they are flashing.When i first start the car they dont flash but as soon as they warm up they start to flash rapidly. :shades:
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    the wife has a US-market taurus with DRLs. I think they put 'em on all the fleet orders. if you bought a "program car", it was probably a fleet vehicle, and would have the DRL module.

    which is probably bad in the flash-o-matic above. get out your wallet, they are in the $300 range, roughly speaking.

    somebody had a post a year or a half year ago, that there was a patch-out connector module that allowed removal of DRLs in something or other. ask your parts man at the dealer about this, it's a darn sight cheaper.
  • Note post #2065, maybe the same as your problem. No engine codes were recoverable. I ran several cans of gas treatment through as well as injector cleaner. And I had the mystified Ford dealer change out the fuel filter. I've had no stalling since, about 3 weeks and 2000 miles.
  • All of a sudden the air will not flow through the vents for a/c or heat. What could the problem be? I checked everything and do not see where the problem is.
  • Hello, I have a 2001 Sable, with a weird problem, when the outside temperature falls below 55 deg. aprox. and I start the engine in the morning, the check engine light turns on and a misfire code is stored on the computer, the car feels bumpy too. After I drive it for a while and the engine warms up it runs smooth again, I already tuned it up and changed the coils module to try to deal with the misfire code, nevertheless I still have the problem. Any suggestion will be greatly appreciated.
  • try the 'stalk' that controls brights/turn signals.
    mine was so bad that lights would only come on when I wiggled it.
    should cost about $80 if I remember correctly.
  • i'm trying to replace my O2 sensor and my speed sensor. can anyone tell me how to do it, the needed tools, how long to set aside, etc.... i ahve a bosch premium O2 sensor and a wells speed sensor. from what it looks like i jsut need to unscrew and then attach the new parts. a visual guide would be great but i ahven't been able to find any
  • My name is Joe and I also have a 97 Taurus. I have the same problem, exactly as you described. Do you have any info on the problem? If so please responde
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    "i'm trying to replace my O2 sensor"

    Which oxygen sensor are you referring to? There are 4 of them:
    http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d801af707.gif

    Ford Taurus/Sable 1996-1999 Repair Guide
    Vehicle Speed Sensor
    REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

    1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
    2. Raise and support the vehicle.
    3. Remove the catalytic converter Y-pipe.
    4. Unplug the VSS electrical connector.
    5. Remove the VSS protective heat shield.
    6. Remove the retaining bolt from the VSS.
    7. Lift the VSS out of the transaxle.
    8. Remove the driven gear retainer and the drive gear.

    To install:

    9. Inspect the O-ring on the sensor and replace if necessary.
    10. Install the driven gear and the retainer.
    11. Place the VSS into the transaxle.
    12. Tighten the retaining bolt to 36-53 inch lbs. (4-6 Nm).
    13. Install the VSS protective heat shield.
    14. Attach the VSS electrical connector.
    15. Install the catalytic converter Y-pipe.
    16. Lower the vehicle.
    17. Connect the negative battery cable.
  • how do i get the parking brake out of the left side rear caliper of my 95 ford taurus
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    By overhauling the caliper IF you can find rebuild parts for it. Easier to replace the caliper with a remanufactured one.
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