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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

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  • I have the same issue on my 1998 Ford Taurus. It has been a very cold nightmare here in Maine. Have you figured out how to repair this?
  • I have the same issue on my 1998 Ford Taurus. It has been a very cold nightmare here in Maine. Have you figured out how to repair this? This was an intermittant issue for which I took the car to a dealer during the warranty period. They said it worked fine. Now, it doesn't work at all.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    My wife explains problem. Says she drives along and then speedometer jumps downward and car acts like tranny slipping. Last part understandable if car doesn't know how fast it is going and thus don't know what gear the electrically controlled tranny should be in. Of course, first suspicion is VSS, but chilton's says a bad VSS will give check engine and set code. Neither occur.
    Vehicle is 97 Sable Wagon 3.0.

    I seldom drive car and likely my luck if I drive a distance it will act up.

    Wife took it to place I told her to stay away from because I felt it needed full scan anyway, and I know they rip people. Was told they replaced VSS because they were pretty sure that was problem and if didn't fix they'd credit toward transmission. (Do you see the scam in this)

    I guess I need to know if chiltons was correct on the code thing.

    If problem goes away and chilton is correct, then I guess that means computer has a problem. Still likely to need full scan I guess.
  • dad53dad53 Posts: 1
    My 1989 Taurus 3.0L with 130,000 miles get an oil light after 20 minutes of driving. I checked the oil pressure with a gage at 50psi before replacing the oil pressure switch, although i did not wait the 20 minutes for the oil light came on first. When the oil light comes on the engine starts making a little more noise and seems to loose power. I have not run it long after the oil light come on but later I can start the car and for the first 20 minutes it is OK again. I don't know what the repair would be or if it's worth it and I hate to just let the repair shop at it because I don't want to spend alot for them to tell me I can't afford it.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    If it didn't do it prior to previous oil change, try this. Let car sit and then change oil. It is possible that debris is in the oil and it takes about that long for enough of it to plug the screen on the oil pump. Look for signs of debris in drained oil. You might want to use cheap oil, no filter on this attempt. Or you could go straight for dropping pan to get at oil pump screen. You'd likely want to ensure it is totally clean, not partially blocked. And replace the silicone pan gasket at the same time, if not already done. Especially if mis-shaped at front end. They had a tendancy to eventually get a little brittle if old and often push out at the front end of motor. You can inspect this without any removal and should.
    If it doesn't go out completely which will show sudden oil loss, it will act like a funnel to the oil pan and water will weep into the oil. Also it is located such that if the water pump is weeping coolant, same problem. I had one that I converted to the orange coolant. Seemed to use a little over a quart between changes. And might need about a pint of coolant in same time. I had noticed that the oil filler cap was accumulating an orangish varnish like coating, but didn't realise this was the source. Vehicle milage on one about the same as yours. Other failed totally at about 170K.
  • We have a 1997 Mercury Sable wagon, which we bought used, and it has been a GREAT car! Not one bit of trouble (we of course bought the extended warranty, which means nothing will go wrong with it during the warranty period!) :D

    My question: just noticed that one of the lamps in the "third" brake light on the tailgate is burned out. Can't find info in the owner's manual about how to remove the assembly to change the lamp. Is this a do-it-yourself kind of thing? But how?? Thanks to anyone who could help... :confuse:
  • just replaced engine in 1997 taurus. car was registering hot. replaced the thermostat, saw the fans were not working, replaced the fan sencor, now they work but still registering hot. what to do next :confuse:
  • pato2pato2 Posts: 1
    can anyone heip me. i have a 93 merc sable 3.0liter sedan.cruise control wont engage just stopped working.
    was working sometimes but now nothing. replaced the fuse
    but the old one was not bad. there is one hot wire on the 6 wire connector prong. is there a sensor somewhere? also can i remove the steering wheel with air bag if i disconnect the battery first?
  • same problem here wife says no heat most days but some times it will heat up then fade to cold. never had any problems until this. I think it is probably a vacum line or switch but would like to know if you ever got this figured out. I have a 97 gl wagon over 270K one fuel pump brakes every year new cam pos ,oxy,timing sensors its been good for the most part
  • wgreenwgreen Posts: 17
    How is the flow through your radiator?
  • We found out it is the fan motor than needs to be replaced. The part costs approximately $200 then we will have to pay for the labor. It's bad for us cause the car is fairly new. :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :mad:" alt="image" />
  • nlc63nlc63 Posts: 6
    Hi,
    I have a 95 Taurus that is giving me tranny problems. The problems started about 2-3 years ago. Originally, there were two distinct symptoms: first, on medium to heavy acceleration (especially on inclines) the car would squeal and not go anywhere. You would have to back off the gas to allow (the tranny) to grab and then keep playing with it until you picked up some speed. Second: the car would buck / shudder on first acceleration, being the worst when cold (either car or weather). A couple of fluid//filter changes and a complete flush helped for a while. On the final trans fluid/filter changes I noticed a large (about 1.5" x 1/2"), curved piece of metal in the pan - not good, I thought; however, since I lost that piece, the first problem is gone. The second problem persists; however. What is strange to me is that I always though that tranny slippage gets worst as the fluid temp heats up; my problem happens when it's cold. Also, I have no problems when cruising on the highway, even under hard acceleration. I would appreciate any help or advise. Thanks. Nick
  • I own a 2001 Mercury Sable and have the same problem. The lights stay on all the time when I use the auto-mode lights. Recently, they have been flashing off for a second and then back on. I believe it is the sensor but have not had it checked.
  • I have a 2001 Sable, with a weird problem, when the outside temperature falls below 55 deg. aprox. and I start the engine in the morning, the engine misses badly, the check engine light is turned on. After I drive it for a while and the engine warms up it runs smooth again, I already tuned it up and changed the coils module to try to deal with a misfire code, nevertheless I still have the problem.

    I got the following codes from the computer:
    P0136 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
    P0156 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
    P0171 System too Lean (Bank 1)
    P0174 System too Lean (Bank 2)
    P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
    P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
    P0305 Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected
    P0306 Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected
    P1131 HO2S 11 Indicates Lean (Ford)
    P1151 Lack Of HO2S-21 Switch Indicates Lean (Ford)

    Since I already checked all the ignition components, my question is: Is it possible that a defective oxygen sensor could trigger a misfire code? In that case if I replace both oxygen sensors for bank 1 and 2, Would the problem in my car be solved?
    Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
  • where is this sensor located on the car? any information you can give me would be great.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Do you have any idea of the source of the metal? Thickness?
    Amount of curve, as in arc?
    First guess would be a piece of the low gear band. Ford's were known for slow engagement when cold in older transmissions.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Sensor 2 would likely be the ones after the converter. Also unlikely both would go simultaneously unless something was really afoul with the fuel.
    Maybe start with making sure temp sensor is in range.
    Misfire likely due to leanness of fuel mix.
    Try looking for a vacuum leak as well.
  • I have a 2002 SEL 24V loaded and and my sway bar link is gone again! this will be the third time this will be replaced

    This is my wife car low miles only 24K...3.5yrs old out of warranty. I was wonderingdoes anybody have this problem multiple times?
  • My 96 Taurus does the same thing, along with a wildly fluctuating temp guage. I have found through my research that the impeller on the water pumps are weak and the coolant eats away the "fan" portion of the pump. If you go to the alt.autos.ford newsgroup, a guy named "backyard mechanic" posted some pictures of a bad pump. I have yet to tear in to mine to see, but that is where I am going.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    depends on how you want to do it. I went through the trunk. center just back of the trunk hatch, there are two black twist connectors, and surprise! -- each holds a large wedge bulb from the high brake light. I replace them both any time one goes out in the wife's car, so there is an assured brake-pedal interlock action between neutral and drive until I can get the other bulb fixed.

    supposedly you can tip the high brake light assembly forward and snap it out of the back deck, but do that once too many times, or once in the cold, and the tabs will break. it's fast and easy going through the trunk.

    the proper bulbs to get at the parts store should be listed in your owners manual, back around page 170 or 180 where nobody ever reads, and you might be surprised to see the new bulb packages usually hold two.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Check for vacuum leaks, the PCV valve grommet can be a problem. Check fuel pressure. When was the fuel filter last changed?
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    OEM from Ford tend not last very long. Decent aftermarket parts such as Moog are a better solution:

    http://www.federalmogul.com/aftermarket/us/Bulletins/25470.pdf
  • nlc63nlc63 Posts: 6
    The piece that came out was about 1/32" thick, grey color, curved (arched) as if curved around a ball. Also, if you look at it widthwise, it was also curved (like an apostrope). When these ford trannys get old and start to have these problems, are they on the way out or can they last for a while longer? Thanks
  • I have a 1996 Mercury Sable that has recently had the Airbag warning light come on continuously. I took it to the local Auto-Zone and they told me they could not use the analyzer to determine why the light came on. Is this something I need to go to the dealer for or is there another way to check this out. Thanks. The car was involved in a front end accident some months back , but don't think it has anything to do with it.. The airbags did not deploy.Thanks for any help.
  • when i start the car it sounds fine but after about 15-20 mins of running it starts making a ticking noise and the oil light comes on do you know what could be wrong???
    should i keep it or get rid of it?
    i had this car since 42,000 on it and this is the first big problem to go wrong with it
    :mad:
    1996 taurus gl
    ohv 3.0
    137,000 mi
  • fordy1fordy1 Posts: 30
    :confuse: It seems that everything is fine when starting off in the am however while driving the heater stops blowing warm and goes to cold. And it will not recover. The system is full, no leaks, and temp guage works fine.Whats up?
  • Any suggestions other than trade. 2000 Taurus; runs great but stalls and quits at stops. Rough idle, 97,000 miles. Has been a great car. Engine light is now on and codes at autoparts store says ERG too rich and ERG too lean. will this cause it to complete stall out? Has anyone had problems with Idle intake air control pump/valve? Guy at parts store said could be the problem.
  • Car runs fine, doesn't overheat or anything or appear to be burning through coolant...

    But when I turn on the heat in the car it noticebly smells like coolant (the air coming out is still hot)

    What should I check, heater core? I heard DIY install on that is terrible and very expensive at a shop.

    Radiator fluid was just flushed again and I added some stop leak stuff this time. But car is running fine other than that, anyone have any possible suggestions?
  • I have a 2004 Sable and My driver side air bag
    is blown, what I would like to know is I found a
    2003 set of air bags + modules an I change mind
    over to these if I change everthing?
  • Thank you so much! We were stumped! Happy Holidays from Kansas. :)
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