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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair



  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Check the fuel filter for leakage. If it hasn't been changed for a while it can rust through.
  • nuwishanuwisha Posts: 1
    These problems may have been covered in previous post, but my eyes are bugging me something fierce from reading about all these taurus problems, so heres mine:

    I'll be driving along and the spedometer drops to zero. If i'm driving at speed I don't notice anything else. If i'm accelerating, you can feel a pause and then the spedo drops and acceleration resumes again. If this happens at low speeds the power steering seems to have cut out. Sometimes when it happens, it doesn't want to shift out of gear (whatever gear it happened in, usually 1st or 3rd)

    Half the time my car seems to think that there is a door open....sensor problem, if so where are they?

    My headlights have died...daytime runners and highbeams work fine but no headlights.. bulbs and fuses are fine.

    Well thats it for now.

    Previous problems include 1 very dead tranny(couldn't be fixed, had to be replaced), and the upper breaklight(wagon) flew off one day. other than that i've had no problems(unless you count the rear defrost button on the aftermarket dash kit....)
  • 98ford98ford Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Ford Taurus that has started to make the steering wheel vibrate when driving at highway speed. It does not seem to happen when driving in town. Any ideas what the problem may be?
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,564
    Most likely a wheel balance problem.

    It could also possibly be related to cupped tires caused by an alignment issue, or something loose/worn in the front suspension, but I would try a wheel balance first, and while they are at it, have them inspect the suspension/steering components for any looseness, and the tires for any unusual wear patterns.
  • bigdan1bigdan1 Posts: 23
    Problems starting my 2002 Taurus. Acts like old cars from the 1950's and 1960's, namely when I turn key I get a whirring sound, or I get a few clicks, or I get a delayed start, but car eventually starts. This happened Sunday and Monday. Since then, starts OK. In old days this was signal starter was going or solenoid was sticking. Took car to a mechanic I trust. He could not find anything wrong. Gas tank was low last Sunday. I filed tank. I am guessing maybe some water in tank? Also, on my 1993 and 1995 Taurus, starter failure was immediate. Went to store, car starts fine. Come out of store, car is dead. It was starter all 3 times. No advance warning of failure. That is why I am surprised about all the noises on the 2002 Taurus. Anybody else have experiences like this with 2002 Taurus? Mechanic is pretty good guy. He said: "call me if it happens again and I will drive to where you are and do a diagnosis." Also, he did not charge me today for his efforts to find out what was wrong. I like and trust the guy.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,564
    Well if you get clicks but the engine does not turn over, water in the gas would not cause that! Sounds more like a starter problem. If you get a nice healthy cranking out of the engine and no start, then I would start to look elsewhere.

    Starters can fail in different ways. They can become intermittent and give you some warning that they are going or they fail with no warning also.

    I would still bet it is your starter, or could be a battery on its last legs. I have found that batteries at least for me do not go much beyond 4 years these days. batteries also can fail with or without any advance warning.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    If you heard the whirring noise, then it's most likely the starter armature going bad. But I agree get the battery checked for full charge. That stinks you've had starters go bad on all three Taurus models. Really unusual.
  • bigdan1bigdan1 Posts: 23
    Only way I can describe it is this: Imagine you put about 6 pebbles in a cigar box and shook it up and down a couple times. That's the sound my front end makes when I go over a slightly bumpy road a slow speed. Can't figure where it's coming from. Car handles fine. Brakes work fine. I think struts are OK. I am looking for some kind of a loose cable or bolt or something that is vibrating at low speeds, but I can't find it. There are some plastic parts that make up the wheel well and some plastic parts that cover bottom of radiator and A/C condenser, and I am wondering if maybe I literally do have some pebbles or something rattling against these plastic components. Anybody have a problem like this? Any suggestions for a solution? Oh yeah, I did the old "take everything out of the trunk, including the spare tire", and I also emptied the glove box, but I still get the noise. Been going on for a few months now. Doesn't seem to be getting worse. I think it's just me getting more annoyed. I drive 100 miles every day on tollways, and car handles fine on the tollway. Also, car has 130,000 miles. Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    Could be the spring retainers for your front brake pads


  • myxomyxo Posts: 5
    I replaced my rotor and brake pads. First time for me. I had been getting a pulsation when applying brakes at high speed, so I decided to replace the rotor, which was indeed ridged.

    I did just the right wheel and drove about 2 miles to test it. The newly replaced rotor was almost impossible to touch (too hot). What could I have done wrong. I followed steps from autozone online diy help.
    Also, the brake pad had no clips . that threw me for a whole hour just trying to figure how to seat the pads in the caliper. Finally, I just seated them in the retainer and put the caliper on.
    My mistakes (which I will fix tomorrow if its not too late,) is to put some grease on the caliper pins, adn clean the caliper with brake cleaner.
    2. I have ABS and did not bleed the brake fluid. Is it too late to do it now after 2 miles drive?

    Could this be the problem for the excessive heat or is the brake touching the caliper? Any suggestions. Before I replace the left.

  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,564
    Could be sway bar links need replacing. Common but fairly inexpensive repair on Taurus.
  • jasmith52jasmith52 Posts: 455
    Firstly - Rotors get hot - really hot - as you brake your car. I'll bet the other side which you didn't change is also hot.

    As long as you can spin the wheel with your hand when the car is jacked up and out of gear, the brakes should be fine. If you can't spin the wheel by hand then the brake may be dragging and you should look for a problem. Check that everything including the little brake springs are in place correctly.

    Bleeding the brakes is a great idea but it is not critical for the brakes to operate. So long as you did not disconnect the caliper from the brake line than their shouldn't be any air in your brake line.
  • myxomyxo Posts: 5
    Thanks Jasmith52, for taking the time to answer my questions. For a first timer, that puts my mind at ease.
    Yes , I can rotate the wheel freely by hand.And yes, I did not disconnect the brake line from the caliper.
    And my problem of the car pulsating when braking at moderate speeds is highly diminished . I hope it goes away totally when I finish up the job and change the left rotor later today.

    Thanks again
  • I love my 1994 Mercury Sable but it looks like I need a rebuilt transmission due to the fact that it is slipping badly. I would love to hear any suggestions on going about getting a rebuilt transmission for this Sable. I have had problems with AAMCO when I was younger so I don't want to go to them. Any idea how much a rebuilt transmission will cost and the best place to go to get one done. The motor is still running very well and the car is in very good shape externally. I don't want to buy new and I'm leery of getting a used car since I know everything that has been put into this car. Any suggestions/.recommendations?
  • jasmith52jasmith52 Posts: 455
    I am not an expert on transmission rebuilds but my impression is that AAMCO is very expensive. After all, someone has to pay for all of that advertising.

    A transmission rebuild will cost you anywhere from $1000 - $2500 at an independent shop depending on what they do. As for quality, well the rebuild is as good as the person who rebuilds it. No matter what shop you go to if the rebuilder (person) is good he'll do a great job. If he is sloppy or lazy then you'll get a problem transmission. No shop has only good rebuilders and no problems but some are definitely better than others. Ask around for references from your friends and family for a good independent shop.

    Are you certain that your transmission can't be fixed. The cheap fix is to buy a bottle of Trans-X (or equivalent) to see if some of the stuck valves can be cleaned up. Also a trans-fluid replacement may do the trick. These fixes are usually temporary though and in the long run you'll need a rebuild.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,564
    I would go to a local independant transmission repair place that has been in business a long time. Check your local yellow pages and Better Business Bureau. I would trust more an independant shop than one of the chains like AAMCO.

    The locally owned shop, especially one who has been in the business a long time, is likely to be an expert, and cannot afford to develop a bad reputation.

    I would think having a mainstream Taurus/Sable from that era, that sold in volume, there are a lot of rebuilt transmissions available at reasonable prices.
  • vppcvppc Posts: 58

    Make sure your RADIO ANTENNA is tightened; if not, then it will make a noise on bumpy surfaces. If not, try the lower ball joint (driver or passenger). Mine was replaced at 64,000 miles - only cost me $110 for part, labor, and 4-wheel alignment.

    P.S. My car has 66,200 and is doing wonderful! How is your car doing with 130,000? Do you have the Vulcan or Duratec engine? How is your transmission performing?

    - Alex
  • :lemon:
    Has anyone out there experienced a nauseating problem with a stench that seems to be similar to mold? I think it's fair to compare it to that Seinfeld episode where Jerry's car got a B.O. smell in it that "attached" itself to everyone and everything. This smell is absolutely horrible, and gets on everything within a short 15 minute car ride-including hair, clothing and even books. Riding in the car is not possible after 30 minutes due to dizziness and headaches. We've taken the car back to the dealership dozens of times, and (after replacing all the carpets, front seats, cleaning the air flow ducts, re-applying stripping and chemical ionizing) the company will do nothing further to find this mystery smell's cause, other than agreeing to ionize it as needed as a temporary fix.
    Does anyone see a problem with this? I'm wondering if there are more people out there who have dealt with this problem before (or presently) or perhaps just have suggestions for us to try. The dealership and FORD MOTOR in Detroit (after admitting there is indeed a problem that they can't fix) refuse to let us out of the lease, and refuse to acknowledge the problem is still there when we try and seek further action.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    Did they check the drain holes for the AC condenser?


  • votbsvotbs Posts: 4
    The rear drums are not coming off. I think I need to release the self-adjusters. How can I get to them?
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