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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair



  • cindcind Posts: 1
    Can anyone help me please? There's a locking mechanism inside my '95 Ford Taurus which locks the trunk from inside. However, when I purchased the car I was told there was no key, so it will not work. No problem, I thought, I probably would never use it any way. Well, it was pushed in accidentally the other day. So now my trunk is locked and I can't get in to it. Just found out today that I have a flat tire, the spare is in the trunk. Well, you can figure out the rest. Seems I can't win here. A Ford dealer in my area said there was a small black button under the steering wheel somewhere. Neither my boyfriend nor myself have been able to find it. Does any one out there know where this button is located? Any other suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  • calodosocalodoso Posts: 2
    I’m new to this forum and I’m trying to find an answer for a problem that I’m having with my 1997 Taurus. When I put the car in gear, some of the electric features seem to fail; the radio stays on but there is no sound, power steering goes out (gets stiff), the intermittent windshield wipers don’t work, and the power windows don’t work. The problem seems to come and go, while driving. There is also like a clicking sound every time the power steering goes out or comes back on. However, it is becoming almost permanent. Everything works fine when the car is either in P or N. Any ideas? I have asked around and nobody has any ideas.
  • trimarantrimaran Posts: 1
    New to the forum here. I have a 1995 Taurus 3.0 and need to change the starter. Is this something I can try or should I just take it to the shop? Any idea what this should cost as I haven't had to to this to any of my vehicles yet.

    Also, the A/C condenser is not working and the guy I bought it from said it would cost about $500.00 to fix. Is this accurate and is that something I can do?

  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,564
    If you are halfway handy, I believe you should be able to change the starter. It is located on front side of engine block, just behind radiator and near oil filter. Usually just a couple of bolts and wires to disconnect and reconnect, though I have not changed it on my Tauri, so I do not have direct experience. Take the starter off, go to a local auto parts shop with the old starter as they will give you credit for it off the rebuilt one. Parts cost shouldn't be that much, you may want to price shop by phone first.

    For AC systems you do not have the tools to evacuate and recharge the system, so you will have to let the experts do this. My experience: If you get off with only a $500 bill for fixing almost anything related to your AC system, you are getting a bargain!
  • jeff172jeff172 Posts: 2
    I have a 1998 taurus with 44,000 miles on it. I recently ran over a piece of angle iron on the highway, and blew the passenger front tire. I got a new tire. The car ran great prior to this. Now I have the following: car pulls right when accelerating, and the steering wheel pulses a bit when braking. The front tires are also visibly not parallel. The car now seems a bit loose in front. I took it into a local alignment shop to have the wheels aligned, and they told me that I need new front ball joints (both sides) for $400. Does this seem right? I don't feel right about this. Why would I need both sides if I ran over with just the passenger tire? I looked on line, and it seems that I can get the Ball joints for about $35 each. Is this work that I can do myself without any special equipment? I am an advanced amateur/fix it myself guy. Thanks.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,593
    Are normally replaced in pairs. You **can** replace just one put this usually isn't done. I know I would get them both replaced if it were my car.

    Still, I would get a second opinion. I've never heard of a ball joint being damaged by hitting something. You may have bent something under there.
  • vppcvppc Posts: 58
    Hello, everyone!

    I have a 2001 Taurus SES w/69,000 miles and was wondering about front rotors. I replaced the rotors on this car at 66,000, because the old ones were at minimum and the wheel would vibrate badly upon braking at around 40+ MPH.

    The new ones I purchased were from Auto Zone. They are VALUCRAFT and cost me $17.99 each and a local service station put them on for $30.00 - so I only paid close to $70.00 total.

    Now, it is 3,000 miles later and the rotors I think are warped. I get that same vibrating of the wheel sensation, but not as often, when I brake from higher speeds (40+). This started only last week. Prior to that, they were GREAT - no problems, but of course, they were new.

    So, my question is, is it my rotors? Did I buy cheap when I shouldn't have? Are they my tires at all? They are crappy Douglas Touring tires with only 5/32 left on the tread. Could mis-alignment or poor balance result of this problem? Maybe my rear brakes are the problem? I have newer pads/shoes all the way around; however, drums I think are original.

    Secondly, what do you all suggest for rotors? I deliver and drive on curvy roads all the time, and maybe these rotors can't handle it. I want a rotor that will withstand my driving, and not warp. Now, I could have these cut down, but I would rather just get better rotors and get it over with. If I get new rotors, should I go ahead and buy new pads? My current ones I believe are 75%. Or, should I get a brake flush?

    Please advise on how I should do this and provide rotor recommendations.

    - Alex
  • tkfitztkfitz Posts: 95
    #1 have front end checked out
    #2 swap or replace tires if out of round try the rear tires if better
    #3 you get what you pay for....but before you replace brake parts see #1 and #2
    #4 always replace rotors and pads together...who wants to do the job twice?
    #5 new shoes...old drums???? You gotta be kidding.Find a better mechanic.
    Check Tire Rack etc... for pricing on better quality brake parts. Lots of good stuff out there. Hardware is cheap,labor is not.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    It could be all of those things. For $18 each, you're not getting the best quality metals. I would go up to a midgrade or premium line of rotor myself. Also have the wheel lug nuts checked for proper torque. Most independent shops don't take time to torque the lugs by hand and that is a common cause of warpe rotors.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    Sounds like a bad transmission range or "MLP" sensor.
  • mercury99mercury99 Posts: 1
    Ok I'M new to this so i hope i get help. I have a 99 mercury sable with 159K miles with a/c problems. The system seems to be working the compressor and clutch work (replaced by me 2 years ago working good) but now when i come to a stop like in traffic or a stop light for a long time the compressor clutch does not turn on anymore. Once on the road moving without any stops for a long period of time the compressor clutch starts to work. I thought it was the low pressure cycling switch but its not. Does anyone have any ideas. The system is holding pressure and is cold when working. And both cooling fans are working in the car. The gauge temp is not getting hot so i dont know what it could be. I was thinking that it maybe the temp sensor under the hood but dont know can anyone help. The car is a 3.0L SOHC GS :confuse:
  • jvd406jvd406 Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 Sable LS Premium Sedan. The front brakes have been a bit noisy from new. The dealer said everything was "normal" and I have lived with it. Besides the noise I can feel what seems like a grinding from the pedal. I replaced the rotors and pads at about 45,000 miles and now have 65,000 on the car. I put cross-drilled rotors and performance pads that were supposed to be mated to the rotors. The noise persists and is annoying. The brakes work well and the new rotors and pads stop better than the stock Ford units. There is no pulsation so the rotors are not warped. Any ideas on the cause of this noise?
  • grahamwgrahamw Posts: 1
    Geo - did you get this sorted out?

    I have the same problem. I tried the fuse box - all OK. I then wiggled the hazards back & forth and the problem was solved. It seeems like a loose/faulty hazard switch which also affects the Turn signals.

  • jeff172jeff172 Posts: 2
    I took it to another alignment place, who seemed to think the ball oints are fine. They think it is the tie-rd on the passenger side (that is the tire that hit the bracket). They tested it by putting it on a rack, and having one guy hold the tire, and wiggle it back and forth. The other guy held on to various parts, and felt for movement. He thought the tie-rod felt loose. They do not do this work, and recommended a place down the road. Does this make sense?
  • dmwypishdmwypish Posts: 1
    Hopefully someone knows something about this car. I need a new transmission 3.0L OHV AX4N Column shift Vin U. I have been looking for a transmission for this car for a couple of months. I have contacted Ford, Mercury dealers and no one can tell me anything without a lot of money being handed over. I want to know what years of transmission is compatible with the 99. I have searched and found several trannys that are 2002, 2003 and so forth, but not a 99. The numbers of the trannys match all 3.0L OHV AX4N Column etc. but I don't know if they can be interchanged. Please help! :sick:
  • joeg3joeg3 Posts: 3

    I just wanted to thank you for the info on 89 Taurus clutch. Sorry it took so long to get back to you. I finished the job a couple of weeks ago and it went quite well thanks to you. My daughter is glad to get her car back and not have to worry about it.

    Thanks again,
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Thanks for posting back, Joe. Glad to hear you got it sorted out.
  • vppcvppc Posts: 58
    Hello, jvd:

    Where did you purchase and how much were these performance brakes? I have a 2001 SES and am VERY interested.

    - Alex

    P.S. To other responses, my front end doesn't make any noise so I know my suspension parts are good, plus they looked fine when I had my tranny flushed 2 weeks ago.
  • vishnyavishnya Posts: 1
    hi ,i would like to know how to clean rariator anr change antifreeze in tauras 2002,better to see a picture
  • jasmith52jasmith52 Posts: 455
    The easiest way is to install a backflush Tee in one of the heater hoses. You can get the Tee at any auto parts store.

    Once the tee is installed you just hook up your garden hose and it gets flushed out. If you want you can then put some radiator flush (chemical) in and let it do it's thing. Then just flush again with the backflush tee and fill it up with new coolant.

    Here's a link

    Caution - Only do the backflush after the car has sat many hours and is cool. Otherwise the cold water may crack the hot engine block.
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