Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

17980828485148

Comments

  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    I don't thiñk that conversion will work without some stuff in the middle somewhere. If it would have, I would have converted one of my Explorers a few years ago.
  • wkohlerwkohler Posts: 74
    You're in for a lot more work than you bargained for. I followed the progress on another website and there's a LOT MORE to it than just replacing the control head. This has been some time ago and I don't remember all the particulars, but I do remember the individual never did get the system to work right and reinstalled the original controls.
  • dmysterdmyster Posts: 12
    My 2002 Sable has been flashing the transaxle warning light at me off and on for months now. I've done a little research, and it sounds like an expensive repair ($1000+). I am thinking of just selling the car and getting something different. Does anyone know anything about this, or have had troubles with this before? I'd really hate to sell such a great car!
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    "I replaced the rear calipers since I could not move the pistons back to reload the pads."

    Did you try using the tool required to rotate the piston back down the parking brake jackscrew built into the caliper? Did you verify that the slots in the pistons lined up with the pins on the back of the inboard pads when installing?

    "I've read others talking about deteriorating brake lines causing rear brakes to drag.... How, exactly, does that happen?

    The flex hoses deteriorate internally, causing a flap of rubber to separate and form a one way check valve in the hose. Pretty common on that era Taurus. Easy to diagnose, raise the vehicle, apply and release the brake pedal, check for free rotation of the wheel. If tight to turn, crack open the bleeder screw to releive any residual pressure. If the wheel now turns freely, suspect a bad hose.
  • jamannjamann Posts: 1
    I got in this AM and Gear shift would move but was not shifting out of park into other gears, reverse, OD, etc. Would this suggest a cable/linkage break or something more serious? No warning at all, went into park last night just fine.
    Any idieas?
  • kjsmith78kjsmith78 Posts: 1
    I have a 93 Taurus, and the automatic climate control fan no longer operates at variable speeds. It's either off or high speed. It basically only blows in 'auto' and I have to have the fan control knob all the way in the 'high' position. What part of the fan control needs replaced? I heard there's some kind of resistor that might be replaced to fix the problem. Any suggestions?
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Sounds like the blower speed control module is defective. Pretty common problem. They're a bit pricey but usually available at recycling yards. It's attached to the AC evaporator housing with 2 screws, access is through the glove box opening after disengaging the stops and letting the glove box door swing down. Make sure the aspirator hose is re-connected to keep it cool.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,408
    Brake safety switch sounds like.

    MODERATOR

  • mmaxonmmaxon Posts: 1
    Recently my taurus windows and locks quit working (all of them). My husband and I checked the first obvious thing which was the fuses (being since they are also on the same fuse) but this isn't it.
    The next thing we are wondering is if there could be a hidden fuse someplace or if the master control in the door could be dead.
    Anyone had any experience with this?
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Not to take on Mr. Shiftright on this, but my experience with this problem differs with his answer. I think you lost a simple cotter pin in the linkage like you thought, and it's not hooked up. Your last engagement into park planted it there, before it broke or slipped out. You'll need to get under the car to find it, but it shouldn't be hard to replace UNLESS, it's internal inside the transmission...... Then you're had!!!!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,408
    Actually you read it more carefully than I did....he DID in fact say that the lever moves, so my suggestion is probably not right. Good catch!

    MODERATOR

  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Probably only because this has happened to me once - but it happened when I was in reverse, so I had backed out of the garage, then it disengaged, and I couldn't move it into drive, I could only move it up into park, which I handily did.
    But as you can imagine, I was right in the middle of the street at that point, stuck, in park! Couldn't go anywhere. Had to wait for a tow truck, which had to draggggg me onto the flatbed and take me to the dealer.
  • smcgrathsmcgrath Posts: 4
    Just bought a 2005 mercury sable gs, has 17,000 mi. Can't seem to get more than 17mpg. Tried injector cleaner, oil/filter change, air filterchange, etc. Any suggestions or known problems? Thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,408
    What the city/hwy EPA numbers?

    Check tire pressure for one thing and pump 'em up a few pounds.

    Also, if you use AC you will lose at least 10% fuel mileage.

    MODERATOR

  • smcgrathsmcgrath Posts: 4
    EPA on sticker was 19/22MPG. Mostly I drive hiway. Tire pressure o.k. Was having low mileage before it got warm enough to use AC. Thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,408
    Okay so we aren't too far off the mark here...when you say tire pressure okay, you mean you are putting it at what the factory says? How about 1-2 lbs more. Also, when was your last alignment? If the car seems to pull, keep in mind you are actually dragging your tires sideways.

    Also "count your shifts"---make sure the transmission is shifting into overdrive...

    MODERATOR

  • smcgrathsmcgrath Posts: 4
    Thanks. I'll try your suggestions tomorrow, and let you know how it goes!
  • smitty24smitty24 Posts: 7
    The charcoal canister is supposed to be on the left side of the vehicle between the front wheel well and the front bumper. But I can't even see it. Is there something to be removed before it can be replaced? Or, do you replace the canister by accessing it from under the car? I am getting a gas smell. I guess I'll start here. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks...
  • raneyraney Posts: 1
    I just had both heads reworked and R&R water pump, spark plugs&wires, cap & rotor on mom's car after she ran it hot and blew both head gaskets. I did all the installation myself.

    The engine has a slight miss at idle but cuts out off and on at high speed. It is like the engine dies and restarts in an instant. The "check engine" light comes on after about 5 minutes of highway travel but clears when engine is turned off.

    I need to know why the check light is coming to hopefully troubleshoot. Any ideas?
    How can I determine why th eligh tis coming on?

    All hoses appear to be on and I can't find any loose connections
Sign In or Register to comment.