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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,633
    If you are actually pinging, it is possible your cylinders are heavily carbonized and perhaps an additive might help....but that rather depends on the additive and on how much carbon you have in there.

    Basically the carbon buildup raises the compression ratio a bit. To see if you are actually pinging, you should put in a tank of the highest octane you can find and see if the pinging goes away.

    A little pinging is okay but if the engine does it more or less all the time, that's a bad thing.
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Posts: 33
    my 99 has 47k on it all old lady driven.. steering wheel is starting to wiggle back and forth at low speeds cant really feel; it on the freeway although do need to get rotors (this is another wheel shaker) cv? rack? ideas j :)
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,633
    If the wheel wiggles when you apply the brakes, that's warped rotors or a bent wheel...if it happens without touching the brakes, then you probably have a wheel balance problem, a tire out of round or a bent wheel. CV joints cause vibration but not a wheel wiggle

    You should have this checked right away if the wheel wiggle is severe.
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Posts: 33
    not the rotors it will doing coasting uphill or down hill and is most notable at speeds at speeds up to 40 .. and it is a has original tires still have life on them although i do need rotors am somewhat of a mechanic............ not severe enough to scare me yet it is just annoying and just started did i say it was constant? :) thanks for the reply it is still a sweet car got it with 30 on it the guy i got it from died and he was like a said kid gloves
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    If the steering wheel saws back and forth at very low speed there's probably a bent wheel or tire belt shifted.
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Posts: 33
    thanks ill let you know ...... :) maybe my daughter hit somthing and is not telling me
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Posts: 33
    the tire is going bad thanks one less headache to worry about
  • rfmerrowrfmerrow Posts: 2
    My mother has a 1995 Mercury Sable GL 3.0L with about 67,xxx miles on it. Today, while driving, it cut out on her with no warning. No sputtering, no choking, nothing. She was able to get it restarted, but then it did it again. She said there were no dummy lights on the dashboard. This makes me think something electrical, possibly an alternator, or the sensor on the side of the distributor. Any ideas? I'm puzzled. :confuse: Thanks in advance.

    Rob
  • millege1millege1 Posts: 4
    I once drove an Escort wagon that did the same thing to me. Was told there's a fuel sensor switch (?) that needed to be reset. As I recall, it was in the cargo section of the wagon, and all that you needed to do was push the button on top to reset it. I think it had to do with if the car rolled over, the fuel pump shut off.

    Don't know if that's your mom's car's problem or not. :confuse:
  • I have a 1993 Sable GS Sedan, and I am trying to put an aftermarket deck inside of it. I cant seem to find out how to get the old one out and how to get the ashtray on below that off. If anyone knows how, please reply with some hints.
    Thanks
  • I have a 1993 Sable GS Sedan, and I am trying to put an aftermarket deck inside of it. I cant seem to find out how to get the old one out and how to get the ashtray on below that off. If anyone knows how, please reply with some hints.
    Thanks
  • jameevjameev Posts: 1
    We're in the middle of replacing the rotors and brake pads, both front and rear. The front was no problem at all, the rear has us stumped. We cannot get the caliper piston to release. Tried bleeding the brakes, didn't help. We have the same problem with both on the rear. Is there something we're missing?
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    The rear calipers have the parking brake mechanism built in, and the pistons have to be rotated clockwise to thread them back down the internal jack screws while pushing on them. Make sure the boots don't stick to the pistons or they'll tear, WD40 works well there. Also make sure the notches in the pistons are positioned to line up with the tabs on the back of the brake pads.

    Larger auto supply houses usually have the piston retractor tool set available for loan, looks like this:
    http://tools.batauto.com/index.php?crn=82&rn=926&action=show_detail

    This also works on most but not as convenient to use:
    http://tools.batauto.com/index.php?crn=82&rn=503&action=show_detail
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Should be 2 small holes on each side of the radio. Ford has a special tool set to go in there to release the spring clips on each side, but 2 pieces of coat hanger each bent into a U shape should work. Insert them and lever the ends outward to release the clips.
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Posts: 33
    well am not sure what the deal is its a fairly new car 47k and have seen this before but i cant remember where.. the heater does not blow heat anymore.. like i read somwhere else it did... and now it dont dont need it for a couple a more months .. and also have not ever changed the coolant.. does anybody? would appreciate any ideas fore i start rummying around j.. :D ps the ac works lol lol
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Posts: 33
    3.0 no overhead
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,564
    Does the temperature gauge move up into the normal range? If this gauge does not, then you could have a bad thermostat which is not allowing coolant temperature to come up to operating temperature.

    Otherwise, it could be a bad valve that lets warm coolant into the heater core, or a plugged heater core, or an electrical problem in the dash control.

    If coolant has never been changed, I would go in and get a coolant flush and fill and also tell them your symptoms of no heat.

    I am surprised you notice it at all in the summertime, or did you live with this when it was cold out as well?
  • pzhengpzheng Posts: 2
    I have exactly problem as your speedometer ! Could you give me some help as soon as possible !

    -------------> Original message :
    I was wondering if you've found anything out, I've been having similar problems with my 1996 , I've noticed that it is linked to the car running hot, while the car is cool it runs great once it's hot...The speedomoter stops working and the engine doesn't want to respond to the accelerator. It feels like it gets stuck in gear sometimes and the power steering cuts in and out. But Like I Said only when it gets hot, when It starts acting up I turn the heat on high and it stops after a few minutes. No problems with the lights yet.. Feel free to respod to my email directly or post here, my email is jryskigmail.com thanks
  • rfmerrowrfmerrow Posts: 2
    The radio is pretty straightforward, as far as Ford's go. If your current radio is the OEM radio, there should be two holes on each side of the face of the deck, one on top of the other and spaced approximately an inch and a half apart. There are special tools that you can purchase pretty much anywhere that sells audio equipment. You push the tools into the holes, (when you see the tools, you'll see that this part is pretty much self explanatory), and when they latch into place, you just pull the deck out. The OEM radio that was in my 92 Ranger was like this, as was the radio in my mom's 94 Topaz and her current 95 Sable. As for the ashtray, I'm not really certain. With my Ranger, you pull the ashtray out, and there's a metal tab in the center of the ashtray, on the top. You pry that out (down toward the ashtray) and the ashtray itself should slide free. As I said, though, I'm not sure about the cars. Good luck!
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