Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

18283858788148

Comments

  • rellomrellom Posts: 10
    Sorry if posting this in two different topics is not proper procedure (I am new here) but here goes:

    Can someone please tell me how to remove the dome light cover on my 2004 taurus sedan. Seems it should just pry off but mine does not want to budge.

    Also, if anyone knows how (step by step?) to remove the headliner in order to drill a hole in the roof for an antenna mount I would appreciate hearing from you.

    Thanks
  • nlandllnlandll Posts: 1
    sir i have a 96 taurus doing the same thing. when i had it scanned it gave me a po 761 error. it won't shift into fourth like yours was doing, is the solenoid inside the trans or on the outside? i hope outside how much was the part since you are a mechanic i assume you repaired it yourself any help would be greatly appreciated thanks lloyd
  • sheilao3sheilao3 Posts: 5
    Please dont laugh, I am a single Mom with 3 girls. NO car knowledge at ALL!
    I have a 1994 Mercury Sable Wagon. Just given to me by my 77 year old Mother in Law. My Mercury Villager died at Christmas. Sable has 42,000 miles and in mint condition. While driving to soccer practice last night a huge cloud of white smole came from rear. The engine temp light came on and began beeping. It had beeped once before 2 weeks prior and I found it had no anti freeze. It has been running very rough since I got the car in jan '05. Using loads of gas. I thought it was just not a car that got good milage. I am gettin 11 or 12 miles to gallon. Lots of "putsy" feeling when I am driving. I had all the filters and oil changed. Did fuel injector cleaner. It also sort of feels like the brake s wont let go after and stop and try to go. It kind of "jumps"., then goes and sometimes when I'm stopped it feels like someone just rear ended me......that was scary the first time or 2.
    Anyway do I replace the head gasket? The Heads, the block? How much is resonable to spend. I have not got the $$ to spare but need a car!
  • amuneepamuneep Posts: 1
    Hi,
    Vehicle: Ford Taurus SE 2000.
    Noticed this year that when temperature outside was 95 degrees having the A/C on while idling caused the engine temperature indicator to go all the way to "H" within 2-3 minutes. Before the indicator starts moving up, the RPM goes to low (maybe 100-200) and then surges to 1000, then settles back to 600-700. This is repeated every 10 seconds or so. There is a deep vibration sound accompanying this RPM fluctuation. :( After this happens for 3-4 times the temperature indicator starts moving up.The gauge comes back to normal once I switch off the A/C or if I start driving at >40mph for about 5 minutes. I can drive at 70mph with full A/C blast for 3 hours without increasing the temperature beyond the middle point. But it takes less than 5 minutes to get the heat indicator to max out. I had the coolant levels checked and the level is full. This is the first time I encountered this problem.
    Any suggestions will be much appreciated.
    thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,408
    Yeah, sounds like a head gasket. You might have caused this by overheating the first time a couple weeks ago. That warning light or beep means that you don't drive the car one more inch. Once the heads warp that's it.

    I'm not sure the car is worth fixing but probably it is, given the low miles. You're probably looking at $700-$1,200 depending on where you live and labor rates, etc. Once they pop the heads they can tell you if there is more severe engine damage. If the entire engine is no good then you may have to go find a good used engine.

    MODERATOR

  • lyneman2lyneman2 Posts: 33
    Thermostat seems to be working because the guage just goes to the normal range...... um I did change the coolant last year, the resevior leaks but am not losing any fluid ( put a patch on it so its ok now ) ...... its like i turned the thing on, it worked for about a minute, then it started blowing cold air

    Sometimes i work nights and i need to defrost, live west coast ( Oregon ) like i said car had 47k on it..... Is there a relay for heat? or are we talking a water problem? ...... This car is treated with kid gloves........ is this one of fords better ideas lol-lol, like i said the A.C. works great lol please keep responding until i fix this problem.... Jeff thanks ......... :D
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Posts: 33
    Although the guage reads normal and I know these guages are not dead on balls, why would that cause the heater to not blow hot at normal operating temperature? :shades:
  • Did anyone ever respond to your speedometer problem? My car started doing something similar to that yesterday. I have a 98 taurus. It was not running hot. I didn't even "gun" the accelerator and the rpm gage shot way up. And it seemed to hesitate to go into gear. (It's automatic). After that it ran fine. When I left again, a little while later, everything was fine and then the speedometer all of a sudden went down to 0 and did not move, but the car was still driving. Then the service engine light came on. We pulled over, turned off the car, checked a few fluids, and then decided to return home. As I was driving the speedometer started working again, but the engine light stayed on. Does anyone know what that could be?
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    I don't know much about your Taurus - but I do know lots about Ford trucks. On those, the guage cluster will act irregular if your battery is failing - almost like it's supposed to be giving you a sign. It's very dependable. If your guages all go to full, back to off, and then somewhere in between, you need a new battery - but that's again, on the trucks.
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Posts: 33
    still have the heater problem...
  • bob75bob75 Posts: 6
    I don't know if the Sable is anything like the 2002 Taurus, but I had a problem as you describe with the remote, and went to the Ford Dealership, and what they did was so simple I was amazed. To program the remote, turn the ignition to the first position ON, then clockwise 8 times in rapid succession, then hit the remote trunk lock or any for that matter, and it should work. Hope this helps. Bob75
  • bob75bob75 Posts: 6
    I purchased this Taurus used and find that the driver side headlamp is WAY out of adjustment. The owner's manual says to turn the little 4mm bolt clockwise to move the beam DOWN and counterclockwise to go UP, but mine doesn't change one bit. Anybody have this same problem? And how to fix it??? Appreciate any and all input. Bob75
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    That is essentially correct, and will work on most Ford cars. The exact instructions are in your owners manual.
  • bob75bob75 Posts: 6
    Hey nvbanker, I'm quoting (exactly) directly from the Owner's Manual, but what I'm trying to convey, is that MINE doesn't work. Is there something about taking the thing apart and finding out WHY it doesn't do what the manual says it's supposed to do??? I don't have a comprehensive manual like Haynes or Chilton's put out, but someone must know the answer to this problem.....???
  • galebgaleb Posts: 1
    I just bought a 96 Taurus Wagon with 140,000 miles that develops a little bit of a vibration in the front end when the car is in drive and is accelerating slightly while at fairly slow speeds(30 - 45 +/-). If coasting or if accelerating fairly quickly, it doesn't vibrate. It also doesn't vibrate until the car is driven 10 + minutes if the weather is warm or hot and sometimes not at all when the weather is cool. I don't feel the vibration in the steering wheel, but do in the floorboards, front seat, and back seats. The car is in otherwise excellent condition and has obviously been well cared for. It is the LX version and has the 6 cy. DOHC engine. It has new tires and alloy wheels. If anyone has had similar problems or has any suggestions, I would appreciate your comments. Thanks, GB
  • pzhengpzheng Posts: 2
    Here is the reply from Jesse Ryski, I hope it will give you some help ---------->

    Well as far as the speedometer goes that was caused by a
    malfunctioning VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) it still misfires sometimes
    and when its misfiring, it doesn't want to chage gears however I don't
    know what its caused by, I've changed the VSS, the Ignition coil, the
    thermostat (hoping it would run cooler) the serpentine belt (thinking
    somehow that could slip and cause the water pump to work improperly,
    spark plugs and wires, I'm not sure what to do next, the only other
    thing I can think of is the computer (brain). So anyways it's running
    better after the VSS but after driving for a few hours it gets hot and
    starts running kinda screwy. It seems like if I shut the car off while
    its misfiring and start it again it runs better. Hope some of this
    helps email me back and let me know. The VSS will fix the speedometer
    problem.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    No need to take it apart unless the battery inside is dead. You do need the correct remote for it to program, they're not all universal, but any Ford Sedan remote ought to program. If you're following the owner's manual instructions exactly - then your remote is bad, or the wrong one, I would say.
  • lmandrewslmandrews Posts: 2
    Ford issued a recall or service bulletin covering leaking head gaskets on your car, and agreed to replace them at no charge. But time may have run out on the offer
    Check with your dealer. Good luck!
  • bob75bob75 Posts: 6
    No problem nvbanker, I just went to the Ford Dealer, and the guy showed me how to do it. Just turn on ignition to first stop, then turn on and off 8 times and voila, it works fine. Thanks anyway. Bob
  • bob75bob75 Posts: 6
    nvbanker, I don't know if I responded to your post about the Headlamp adjustment or not, (I may have been thinking of the remote at the time) but anyway, I turn the little 4mm bolt clockwise OR counterclockwise and nothing happens. Does this mean I have to take the whole headlamp assembly off and see if maybe something is amiss inside this thing??? I don't have the Chilton's or Haynes book on the model, so don't know what they tell you to do, but seems kinda complicated taking that headlamp assembly out. Any ideas, from anybody????? Thanks, Bob
Sign In or Register to comment.