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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • jaxs1jaxs1 Posts: 2,697
    Maybe it is just the battery. They commonly have to be replaced every few years. You can call Sears and any auto parts store for battery prices. Maybe your son drained the battery playing with the stereo and it just needs to be recharged.
    If it is just the battery, it is not a big deal, but it could be something worse. A battery recharge is cheap.

    It would have been a good idea to have been firmer about the price since it had 85,000 miles and you did not have have it thoroughly checked out at a mechanic's service center and you knew it had some problems you could see and hear yourself already (suspension noises, keypad etc.).
    For $5700, it should have been a cream puff with zero problems.
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 187
    I hear what you're saying. Thought I had checked enough on it. It started fine the 3 times we drove it....The keypad does light up after all, so maybe it's just the wrong code. Can't look around due to the rain. I'll take the battery tomorrow--it's pouring here, has been for hours and hours.A new battery might not be a bad idea anyway since we don't know how old it was. A set of jumper cables is surely going in the trunk!

    I appreciate that you are frank with me, just keep giving me guidance. I hope that this works out. I just couldn't keep shopping anymore, my kid loved the car and I was wasting so much time, effort and gas. I figured it was worth the extra just to be done. I hope the old man didn't $^*^$ us! (I might even call him!)
  • fbm111fbm111 Posts: 2
    Is there a way to program the door locks so that when you put the car in PARK the locks will automatically unlock all the doors?

    Thanks guys!
  • fbm111fbm111 Posts: 2
    This is a 2005 Taurus SE
  • jasmith52jasmith52 Posts: 455
    Well I have had a few older cars with the exact problem that you ran into. That is that the car won't start after sitting for a day or two.

    The battery may be old and can't hold a charge anymore. If however the battery is not the original equipment (ie. it's an after market battery) then it has already been swapped out and I would suspect that you have another problem.

    The only way to be certain is to check the voltage of the (fully charged battery) with a multi-meter. If the battery is any good then it should read just under 12 volts.

    If you have a problem with the charging system, then that can be checked with the multi-meter also. When the car is running the voltage (accross the battery terminals) should now read between 12 to 14 volts. If it's lower than that then you probably have a bad alternator.

    Sometimes, like when you give someone a jump start and have some sparking, the (electrical) diodes in the alternator get damaged. In that case the battery can slow-short accross the diodes causing the dead battery symptoms you describe. The cure for that is usually a new alternator.

    The other potential problem is that you have a slow short somewhere in the car that drains the battery. Those are a real pain to find. You just might need some professional help to solve that problem.

    ... Used cars, they can save you alot of money. Buy they can be a real pain also.

    Keep us posted as to what the problem turned out to be.
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 187
    Got the new battery. Put it in the same way as the old one. Apparently the old one was not the same kind (I think it might have been for a different kind of car). He had the posts toward the front, so that is how I put in the new one. PUt on the red, then the back. ZAP! Quickly pulled it off. Reversed it when I noticed I had F'ed up and connected the wrong cables (becaues the battery was reversed).

    Car starts, a/c runs, lights work. RADIO is out. My son will kill me (It's the 6 CD one) because that is his favorite thing. My husband will kill me because I HAD to get THIS car, and then the reason the radio is out is MY fault. (which it actually is).

    Can there be an easy fix?

    OH YES, the battery light is on on the dash board. That can't be good. I have a friend who is handy. How handy does he have to be? I mean,he is capable, but how much time and effort will I be imposing on him for? Can the radio work again...Maybe a fuse somewhere. PLEASE :cry: :cry: :cry:
  • jasmith52jasmith52 Posts: 455
    reposted...Sometimes, like when you give someone a jump start and have some sparking, the (electrical) diodes in the alternator get damaged. In that case the battery can slow-short accross the diodes causing the dead battery symptoms you describe. The cure for that is usually a new alternator.

    You may have damaged your alternator.

    You need to check whether or not the car is charging. If the voltage of the car when it is running is 12 volts or less then the car is not charging. If it is not charging then you could be stranded somewhere. Note that a car can run on the battery-only for a few days. But eventually the battery will lose it's charge and the car will not run.

    The battery light being on (when the engine is running) is an indication that the car is not charging.

    The other possibility is that the alternator was bad ever since you bought it. In that case, putting in a new battery will not change things.
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 187
    I'm thinking it was fine, and that I "broke" the alternator. Is this a difficult repair for a backyard mechanic. My friend should have all the tools, if I get the part. Is a lift needed? I'd heard alternators are on the top.

    Is there a fuse somewhere that could be my radio problem (could the spark have blown a fuse?)
  • jasmith52jasmith52 Posts: 455
    I believe that your engine may be different than the one in my car. However for my car (and that engine configuration) the alternator is right on top. It's just a few bolts and a wire or two to get the alternator off. So to answer your question... No you shouldn't need a lift to swap out the alternator. Tell your mechanic friend to check if the car is charging before you decide if you need a new alternator or not. Make sure that you disconnect the battery before working on the alternator.

    For the radio, check the fuse panel underneath the dash on the drivers side. I believe that it's below the steering wheel. They put them in the most inconvienent spot that they possibly can !
  • gyatesgyates Posts: 55
    The code in the owners manual was probably on a card, about the size of a credit card. This is the programming code. You punch this number in, and then you set what 5 digit code you want to use to open the doors. The owners manual should have some instructions in it about doing this. My Explorer was the same way when I bought it "new" "used".
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 187
    Went to Pep Boys, they charge if it's in the car to check it. Went to Advance and they don't do it, but sent me to Autozone. Autozone brought out a machine and hooked it to the battery and had us run the car and rev it and idle it. He says it is charging fine, so it's not the alternator. The batt light is still on on the dash. One suggestion was that I disconnect the batt and maybe the computer will reset itself after I wait a while to reconnect. Hope that takes care of the dash light. Alt. fuse was fine too.

    Cannot figure out which is the radio fuse. Had 2 other people also check the owner's guide and cannot locate it. I understand there may be several of them. ANy tips on the radio??
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 187
    Went to Pep Boys, they charge if it's in the car to check it. Went to Advance and they don't do it, but sent me to Autozone. Autozone brought out a machine and hooked it to the battery and had us run the car and rev it and idle it. He says it is charging fine, so it's not the alternator. The batt light is still on on the dash. One suggestion was that I disconnect the batt and maybe the computer will reset itself after I wait a while to reconnect. Hope that takes care of the dash light. Alt. fuse was fine too.

    Cannot figure out which is the radio fuse. Had 2 other people also check the owner's guide and cannot locate it. I understand there may be several of them. ANy tips on the radio??
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 187
    Went to Pep Boys, they charge if it's in the car to check it. Went to Advance and they don't do it, but sent me to Autozone. Autozone brought out a machine and hooked it to the battery and had us run the car and rev it and idle it. He says it is charging fine, so it's not the alternator. The batt light is still on on the dash. One suggestion was that I disconnect the batt and maybe the computer will reset itself after I wait a while to reconnect. Hope that takes care of the dash light. Alt. fuse was fine too.

    Cannot figure out which is the radio fuse. Had 2 other people also check the owner's guide and cannot locate it. I understand there may be several of them. ANy tips on the radio??
  • jasmith52jasmith52 Posts: 455
    Well that is fortunate that you won't have a relatively expensive (alternator) repair starting out.

    My owners manual doesn't list the radio on a fuse by itself. The radio may share a fuse with another function. So you'll just have to pull the fuses one by one and look for a blown fuse. For what it's worth I don't believe that the stock radios have a security code (which some cars do) that must be set. The radio on my car doesn't have one.

    Keep us posted about future developments with the car.
  • tnmajortnmajor Posts: 14
    I did the same thing recently. Large maxi fuse on the outside left of the fuse box. It sits kind of outside the box itself. I had a friend that had pieced together a car from two others and he had the fuse on hand. Replaced it and one other for the radio and was back in action.
  • tnmajortnmajor Posts: 14
    I did the same thing recently. Large maxi fuse on the outside left of the fuse box. It sits kind of outside the box itself. I had a friend that had pieced together a car from two others and he had the fuse on hand. Replaced it and one other for the radio and was back in action.
  • tnmajortnmajor Posts: 14
    Radio fuse is one of the small ones about in the middle of the fuse block.
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 187
    Do you mean the inside fuse box or the outside one (for the maxi fuse)?

    I finally found one bad one in the box in the engine, but can't get any of the inside ones loose. Going to buy the one fuse and cross my fingers!!!
  • jasmith52jasmith52 Posts: 455
    For the fuses inside the passenger compartment you may need to use a pair of pliers to pluck out the fuse.

    If I were to guess, the radio related fuses are only inside the passenger compartment. The ones in the engine compartment are related to engine operation.
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 187
    A guy on another board (ford-forums.com) directed me to some fuses. It was #17 in the engine compartment fuse box. RADIO IS BACK :)

    Battery light is still on, but an alternator (if that is problem) is an easy fix compared to a radio in the SEL (cd changer and electronic climate).

    I feel so much better. Thanks for all advice on radio! :)
  • tnmajortnmajor Posts: 14
    Maxi fuse is in the front right when looking at the engine compartment.Drivers side. On the outside of that fuse box you will find the maxi fuse to the left. I bet money this gets you back in action.
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 187
    tnmajor, Do you meant my radio or my alternator? I got the radio back with a yellow #20 fuse in position 17. Still no alternator :sick: .

    Friend did a volt check on the battery and it was around like 5 volts, when engine was revved it went up to about 6 or 7. He said my diode was shot, which means new alternator. Since I have the DOHC engine the alt. is hidden down below and may be $$ labor to fix. I hope you mean it's a maxi fuse for the alternator!!!
  • g8rfang8rfan Posts: 1
    In regards to Wrench2 and Bowmanjh1,
    The problem is not necessarily speeding but just sticking cable and or corroded speedo head. I just pulled my 93 Sable speedo head because Ford Wanted $600 for the head. I found corrosion where the cable ties into the back of the speedo head. My speedometer would work fine sometimes and other times it would start swinging wildly from 0 to 85mph especially on cold mornings. The speedo finally quit qorking so I pulled it out to replace the head and found the corrosion and the resulting broken upper cable half. The upper cable half on my sable had a plastic tip that turned the speedo and it had come off the cable end due to strain caused by corrosion.
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 187
    HI there, You advised me on a maxi fuse. I found it, but am afraid to touch it. I am also afraid to take it to a shop, who will put in an alternator that I might not need.

    Did you mean that the maxi fuse is for the alternator? I think that is what you meant, considering where it is. Is there a good chance that it could have blown and saved the alternator, or could it have blown and still not saved it? My batt did pick up a volt or 2 when revved. Would that happen if this fuse has blown? I'm thinking not, and that the fuse is good and alt. is not.

    I am waiting another day so my friend can check it with his volt checker (whatever you call it!). I just don't trust shops, and like to know the problem before I bring it in.

    Any more light you can shed on this situation would be great. I keep saying there should be more safeguards, I can't be the only moron. I wonder how many morons got new alternators who only needed new fuses??

    Thank you
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 187
    My "new" 2001 Taurus should have the coolant replaced.The second owner said he didn't do it, so he thinks it would be a good idea now. (He did do fuel and cabin filter, serpentine,tires, brake pads ,front rotors) I've heard this called flush and fill. Several people have told me to skip the "flush" and not to pour any other junk in there except the anti-freeze, that it will gunk it up. I'm in NJ. Any thoughts on this?

    Sound like a do-it-yourself...but I'm the one who put in my own battery and look where that got me!! (though Hubby could handle). They can't charge much for an empty and fill can they!?
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 187
    I think tnmajor is responsible for saving me time, $$ and a stomachache. I had my buddy check the darn mega fuse and that thing was BAD. Popped in the new one and my alternator is not broken after all.

    Check my other posts for all the crap that occurred after I put my battery in backwards. Total cost of repairs was $7.00 for 2 fuses. This board really helped me out. The diagnostic alone would have been $50, and who knows if they knew about the fuse. Nobody on my phone calls ever suggested it.

    Thanks again for the patience and advice from you guys. :) :D Persistance and research paid off!!!
  • tnmajortnmajor Posts: 14
    Glad to be of service. I had been through the same situation on teenagers car not long ago. Glad to be part of your US Air Force.
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 187
    I should change the coolant in my 01 w/ 85000 miles since nobody knows if or when it was done. I hear all this stuff about the heater core and I am afraid to have anybody touch the system because it never fails that when you "fix" something, something else goes wrong.

    I have read to NOT use chemical flush and been told by some folks just to drain the radiator and refill. If I have them "flush" it with water only, will I run the potential of causing the heater core or anything to go bad? All seems well with the cooling system at this point. I will be having a shop do this.

    If I have them just drain the rad. and refill it shouldn't be expensive, won't damage anything else and I could then have it done again in a year or so, which should leave me with decent coolant. Maybe by then I can learn to do it myself! Does doing this make any sense? SOmetimes I really believe in "if it ain't broke, don't fix it!" (long ago I had a "friend" do a tune-up, he stripped a cylinder or something and I'd have been better of not having it done!)
  • jasmith52jasmith52 Posts: 455
    To Flush or Not - That is the question !

    Well if you want to get all of that gunk out of the cooling system that has built up over the last 6 or 7 years then a flush is the way to go. If you just want to get some more coolant in there that is a little fresher then drain and fill the raditor.

    The reason to change the fluid in the radiator is to stop the engine from rusting away. So the question becomes how should I do this ?

    One easy way is to install a back-flush tee in one of the heater hoses and then hook up the garden hose to the tee. That will flush out the system and get rid of everything. That is a really easy thing to do that you can do yourself.

    Or if you just want to drain the radiator all you have to do is take out the bolt or loosen the valve at the bottom of the radiator. Doing that will drain the radiator. If you cant find the drain valve/bolt then just disconnect the lower radiator hose.

    Also, make sure the car has sat overnight when you do any of this so the engine and the coolant are cold. Working on a hot engine can cause problems and you could burn yourself.
  • lizettelizette Posts: 2
    This is my first time on a forum...please bare w/me! I bought a 2001 Taurus at auction. Car didn't have ANY manuals, just ONE single key, and no info on the keyless entry pad access. Was told that entering a sequence of numbers several times would allow me to change to a new code. This car has factory-installed alarm, but with just one key, there's not much I can do, either.
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