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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • whitallwhitall Posts: 187
    THIS I can help with. I assume there is not a code in the pouch that the owner's manual is in? If you have the pouch there is a little plastic card, about 1 inch x 3 inches with the code on it. If not,you'll have to do what I did. I had to practically lay with my head under the steering wheel, by the brakes. There is a fuse box with all those little plastic fuses in it. My code was on a sticker that was partly behind the plastic back of the fusebox (on the right). I could just see a little tab of paper sticking out. I grabbed as much of it as I could and gently pulled. I pulled off a little tab that said "keycode" and that was the factory set code. THe owner book has instructions to set your own, but you need the factory one to do it. It's possible your code is somewhere else under there, so look around for stickers. It could be stuck on the SIDE of the box if it's not wrapped behind it like mine was. :)
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Posts: 2,697
    He said he did not have any manuals. He should just go to the dealer and get a spare key, buy some spare key fobs off eBay and have the dealer program them and the keypad code at the same time or don't worry about the keypad and just use the keyfobs instead.
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 187
    My driver's window starts clicking (2001) as it goes down the last 5-6 inches. Sounds like some gear or something might be sticking or breaking. Somebody advised lubing it. I've never done that, but wanted other opinions before I try it. The window seems to work properly other than the noise. I am afraid to let it all the way down for fear it will get stuck.

    Anybody ever had this noise and know what it is a sign of? Lubing can't hurt can it?
  • lizettelizette Posts: 2
    I will try my best to find this code.....THANKS SO MUCH FOR THE INFORMATION.....I REALLY APPRECIATE IT. GOD BLESS YOU.. :)
  • I've been reading the posts here and laughing my [non-permissible content removed] off.

    Fords are unreliable because the types of people who buy them don't maintain them. If you want to keep a car running like new, you have ot keep it new. But since these are such cheap cars, no one wants to spend the $$$ on maintaining them, so they fall apart, and people consider them cheap cars, and the circle is complete.

    Brake fluid should be changed every 2 years or 24,000 miles - FLUSHED, to prevent corrosion in the brake system. Brake fluid is hydroscopic, and absorbs water.

    Coolant should be flushed bi-annually as well. Use a quality coolant recommended by the manufacturer. Mix 50:50 with DISTILLED water (its 99 cents a jug so stop complaining) and use Redline water wetter.

    Transmission fluid should be FLUSHED every 3-4 years or 40,000 miles. Many complain here of transmission failures, and I am certain they are related to fluid failure. If trany fluid overheats, it turns brown and loses ALL lubricity. Check the fluid level often and check the COLOR and SMELL, too. If it smells burnt or looks brown, change it with a quality fluid.

    Water pumps on many new cars fail at 60,000 miles. If you see a small seepage at the water pump, chances are the seal is shot and coolant is in the bearings. The bearings can seize and leave you stranded when you least expect it. On some cars (like the BMW) the pump wobbles and throws off fan blades, which then puncture the hood (I kid you not). Radiator parts, coolant hoses, belts, and even water pumps, are all fairly cheap. If the car has some higher milage, consider a complete cooling system overhaul, rather than piecemeal replacement.

    Others have mentioned that these cars can be expensive to own when used. This is true for any car. If you are not handy with tools, then buy newer cars under warrenty. Leave the used cars to the shadetree mechanics....

    With proper preventative maintenance, any car can be made reliable. With no preventative maintenance, it ends up being a game of waiting for the next failure to occur.

    FWIW...
  • jasmith52jasmith52 Posts: 455
    RobertPlatbell:

    While you have a point that maintenance is a good thing you don't quite have the details correct.

    For my car (a 2003 model) the coolant is good for 5 years or 150k miles. You are referring to the old type coolant that is generally not used anymore. To change it more often than what is recommended is just a waste of money. Changing it more frequently won't make your car run better or be more reliable.

    The transmission fluid change interval is 24k miles not 40k as you suggest. And by the way, they use the Mercon V fluid now which is synthetic and holds up better than previous versions.

    And as you know you can change all of the fluids, watch for water pump degradation, and still have many mechanical problems.

    So while your suggestions are in the right direction, they will not prevent many expensive repairs.
  • My 98 Taurus w/dohc and 124500 miles that will not idle right. Most of the time it idles very low and rough at about 700 rpm but sometimes it idles as high as 1500 rpm. This is in gear as well as park. I drove it for two days before the check engine light came on. It has many codes all pointing to running lean. I'm sure the low idle is causing that. Any ideas as what to look at first? I'm thinking TPS or IAC. Any ideas on how to test these to avoid taking it in to be repaired? Thanks
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 187
    Looks like a new steering rack is in my future. The fluid is a little bit below min, and there are occassional spots on driveway. Drips were seen coming from the area of the rubber boot (kinky black hose). It has 85,000 miles and is "new" to us, so no idea how long leaking.

    I have seen used racks going for as low as $85-$125 and new (napa-is it new or reman?)is about $220 plus core charge. All this without upcharge by shop (how much will that be?)

    Have steering racks been a problem on these cars (2001 DOHC)? Would a used part be worth it? Do they inspect them? If there is a warranty, does it cover reinstalling it because I hear the labor is fairly high on this job?

    I wonder how long we can go if is is a small leak and we are sure to keep an eye on the fluid level? It is performing normally.
  • cubswin21cubswin21 Posts: 1
    I had my coolant flushed and changed the other day-- seemed ok, drove it for a day, and now the low coolant light is on. Reserve is full. Any ideas? Did the flush gum up the sensor? Where is it at to unplug? I looked but don't see it.

    Also, I'd like to clean out my Throttle Body, but I'm not sure where it is. Thanks!
  • I to had the warning light come on, but had ample fluid. I asked my service manager to look at, and he said often the sensor does not read correctly and suggested I add a little more coolant. He put in about a cup of green 50/50 mixture and the light did not come on. That was about 9 months ago. Since then I have added a cup once and a half-cup another time when the light came on and problem solved. The last time the fluid level is now up to the black portion of the top section of the tank. The service manager also told me that to replace the sensor one must buy a total new tank. A few cups of 50/50 mix beats buying a new tank. Hope this helps.
    silentwill
  • rivdogrivdog Posts: 1
    I just bought a used 1994 Sable and found out that the sunroof will not open or close. The control panel for it lights up but nothing happens when you press open or close. I'm not too great when it comes to troubleshooting electrical so any help would be greatly welcomed!
  • bob158bob158 Posts: 1
    My sable starts accelerating too a high speed when put in
    park. any help on this?
  • kevmokevmo Posts: 4
    When I'm turning a corner slowly and am turning my wheel back to straight a grinding/growling noise comes from the front end. Any ideas on what this might be? Sway bars? Stuts? Steering linkage?

    Thanks for your help.
  • kong59idkong59id Posts: 2
    My 2002 sable LS has a buzzing noise comming from the dash or the windsheild (can't really tell) when I am on the highway driving at speeds between 55 and 80 mph. What could this be?

    Thanks
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Posts: 2,697
    If you make a mistake on the posts, you can go back and click edit and correct it. You do not have make a new post.
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 187
    My son's 2001 Taurus was stalling last night when put into drive. My son said that if he put it in Reverse before he put it into drive, and then put it to Drive, that it would go. If he went directly to Drive it would stall.

    What could this be? Please advice soon!! :sick:
  • vandal88vandal88 Posts: 2
    I have a 93 taurus and the water pump went out on it. Do I need to lift the engine up in order to get it off or is there a way that you can get it past the frame of the vehicle?
  • tkfitztkfitz Posts: 95
    3.8 or 3.0 engine? I know the 3.0(non SHO) can be done easily without having to move the engine. Did it myself in a hour or so. EZ job.
  • Hello evryone

    How difficult is it to replace the oil pan gasket on a 99 Sable with the 24 valve DOHC engine? Does the engine need to be lifted? I was quoted $600 to replace which seem ridiculous. Is this something I can do? Any advice?
  • alli3alli3 Posts: 2
    I recently bought a 1993 ford taurus, when i purchased it the previous owner told me that it needed a new master cylinder. I tried to replace it, did what the instructions told me to and the breaks still don't work.
    Any ideas to what could be wrong with it?
  • oldescortoldescort Posts: 1
    I will be replacing the front struts/strut bearings on my Sable and will be doing my own work. Is it necessary to disconnect the tie rod end and separate the lower ball joint from the lower control arm? Thanks.
  • willis3willis3 Posts: 76
    I have a '97 Taurus with the Vulcan engine. It developed a leak and the oil pan had to be replaced. The engine doesn't need to be lifted (although the car will be lifted and removed from the underside).

    I can dig through my receipts and find out the cost of this repair (occurred 2-3 years ago).

    As for repairing it yourself, you would need a good set of jackstands. I'm sure it's easier to do the repair if the car is on a lift.
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 187
    2001 DOHC engine. 2 weeks ago it stalled one night when it was put into drive. It did it a few times. My son said it went after he went into Reverse first, then into drive. It didn't do it again for the past 2 weeks. I was worried about the Reverse part, and thinking trans, but haven't had it checked as it's been fine.

    Last night it stalled 2 times when he put it into Drive after starting it, the third time he tried it went. Five minutes (his estimate) later it stalled after he stopped at a light. It stalled when he went to go on the green, not while he was sitting still. Today he went out a little bit, and it was fine.

    I am thinking maybe the putting it in Reverse and then Drive, from 2 weeks ago, was just a coincidence. Maybe it is not trans related (like that made me think). Possibly that it went, after he put it in reverse first, was a coincidence.

    I think the fuel filter is fairly new. This car is new to us, and we don't have complete records. The shop will check it out...but can't take it until Friday. Two weeks ago there were no codes, and no lights came on this time (until the stall, when they all came on).

    Just looking for likely culprits. I am hoping for reassurance that it could be a minor thing. What kind of minor things would not send codes?

    Any help??
  • gyatesgyates Posts: 55
    Could be the Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve. My Explorer did something very similar, and also did not cause the Check Engine light to come on. It is a relatively inexpensive part. Is it also idling very low, close to the point of the engine quitting? If so, I would definitely think the IAC valve. On the Explorer, it is located right on top, veyr easy to fix myself. I do not know where it si on the Taurus, but someone like Autozone could tell you I am sure.
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 187
    He hasn't mentioned the idle being a problem. It is fine today. Was yours intermittent when it went bad? DId it happen off and on, or did it just go bad all at once? I hope it is that easy!

    Nothing is easy to reach on this stinking engine.

    I will write it down on my list of questions to ask the mechanic. I am always afraid of being taken by the mechanic..I've usually had newer cars with, or just out of warranty. This is my first excursion into a used (too used) car, for my son. I think it may be a costly mistake. :sick:
  • gyatesgyates Posts: 55
    Mine went bad all of a sudden. I got in it one morning to got to work, and it would barely run enough to back out of the garage. Once I hit the road, though, with foot on the gas pedal, it ran fine. But, every time I stopped, I had to give it gas to keep it running. Never got a check engine light.
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 187
    Below is a post I already made. A friend says it could be the torque converter. He says Ford will have a whole diagnostic they could run that a small shop might not. Is he possibly correct (about Ford) and should I let them take a crack at diagnosing it rather than the small shop?(then fix it elsewhere-if cheaper)

    PRIOR POST
    2001 DOHC engine. 2 weeks ago it stalled one night when it was put into drive. It did it a few times. My son said it went after he went into Reverse first, then into drive. It didn't do it again for the past 2 weeks. I was worried about the Reverse part, and thinking trans, but haven't had it checked as it's been fine.

    Last night it stalled 2 times when he put it into Drive after starting it, the third time he tried it went. Five minutes (his estimate) later it stalled after he stopped at a light. It stalled when he went to go on the green, not while he was sitting still. Today he went out a little bit, and it was fine.

    I am thinking maybe the putting it in Reverse and then Drive, from 2 weeks ago, was just a coincidence. Maybe it is not trans related (like that made me think). Possibly that it went, after he put it in reverse first, was a coincidence.

    I think the fuel filter is fairly new. This car is new to us, and we don't have complete records. The shop will check it out...but can't take it until Friday. Two weeks ago there were no codes, and no lights came on this time (until the stall, when they all came on).

    Just looking for likely culprits. I am hoping for reassurance that it could be a minor thing. What kind of minor things would not send codes?
  • fkrolfkrol Posts: 1
    What was the problem? I'm having the same except I'm getting a bout 200 miles per tank. Still nearly a third less than normal. THANKS!
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 187
    Does anybody know what the mechanic labor rate is for non-warranty work at dealerships? I am in South Jersey and about to go in for a "diagnostic" for stalling. She said it costs $120 and she thought that allows for 1.5 hours to diagnose. Just wondering to compare with other shops.

    Any ideas on the parts markup (for motorcraft, new, reman. etc)? I think I am looking at a rebuilt steering rack.

    How about the bodyshop rates? I am considering a new bumper too. I doubt they would attempt a "repair" of my existing.
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