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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • badsablebadsable Posts: 3
    I hate this car.The A/C in my 2001 Sable doesnt work it doesnt blow any air cold or hot.I'm not sure what it is can anyone help e
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Most likely just blew a fuse. Replace it and you should have blow.
  • henkel1henkel1 Posts: 2
    Did you ever find the problem? I have a '98 Ford Taurus wagon and just took it in for an oil change. They told me the transmission lines are leaking badly (in the same area as you described). I am calling around now to find someone to take a look at it.
  • badsablebadsable Posts: 3
    Sorry but I forgot to say that I checked all the fuses and never found a problem.Does anyone know were the Motor blower is.I have another problem with the car now Im having alot of problems getting to shift the gear from park to Reverse.But no problem changing gears from reverse to drive.It gets stuck and I have to pump the brakes alot to try to get to go.I hate this car.
  • spadezspadez Posts: 2
    I'm having the same problem with a 2000 Sable - happened about a year ago; the mechanic says it frothed up out of the reservoir; he claimed there was probably just some air in the line, and that there wasn't anything he could do. Hadn't seen the problem again until today: parked it in the driveway this afternoon, and a few hours later noticed a puddle of power steering fluid. Looks like it came out of the top of the reservoir again.

    Jatabt, did you ever figure out what was wrong? Anyone have any ideas, or know if it's safe to drive the car like this?
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    I found a Haynes and as sorry as those manuals are, it at least showed a rough wiring diagram. The blown fuse is another question. It refers to the cover, which mine is missing, for the diagram. I did see that the reverse lights use a 15A fuse and because I'm having the broken wires at the lift gate, suspect the wire broke and shorted.
    On the A/C, it showed the high pressure switch but it's logic is "fuzzy". It appears to be a double pole, double throw and maybe drawn in the inop state but the low pressure switch is drawn in the op state. Side shown making contact puts a ground on a terminal in either the relay box or main computer. The other set of contacts will close a circuit related to either the main computer or relay box. I can only hope that I don't need the PCM (main computer) or even the little relay box. Parts man told me this contraption was used in late 90 Fords and believed to never need replacing. Ford doesn't even have them and to fix his mothers car they had to get one out of a used parts house. Another one of those better ideas that will stop me from buying any newer Detroit product. I can only guess how much of the car will have to be torn apart should I need to replace a compressor. I know that it is impossible to get at the electrical connector on the compressor.
  • lilsuzylilsuzy Posts: 1
    My car has had a continuous problem with the engine light coming on. My Ford mechanic said that it is usually something to do with the emission system and is nothing serious. I bought the car used in 2002, have had my car serviced regularly, and racked up only 65,000 miles. Service records indicate that this engine light has been a problem off and on for about two years. Every time the light comes on I have it looked at and records indicate a coded problem that is "fixed". For the March 2005 service, I once again had the code fixed. I drove it about 4000 miles and took it in for service two weeks ago. The engine light was on and blinking off and on occasionally - the motor would sputter, too. After diagnostics, the Ford mechanic said the code showed that I had a dead cylinder but that he needed to take the engine apart to find out what else might be wrong. I approved the $350 charge. The outcome was that my engine was gone - bent rods, burnt pistons, melted gasket - the whole enchilada. Replacement was estimated at $4800.
    My question is: how did this happen? The engine light problem was always minimized to me. What else could have happened to the car that was causing the light to come on? After going in and having the light "fixed" four times, shouldn't the mechanics have done more that "what the computer told them to do?" I now have a car with no value and I owe a year's worth of payments. Help.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    That would probably be it, If I could read it.
  • 1998 taurus.....30k mileage check....yes 30k!!!! have had a problem it seems when the car kicks into overdrive around 30-40 miles /hour....get sort of a bucking feel.....repair shop pulled the pan...found metal in the fluid and recommended not flushing and refilling in lieu of a potentially more serious problem....what to do????
  • dustinnoedustinnoe Posts: 1
    I own a 1993 Ford Taurus. The transmission is jerking very bad. It is mainly when I accelerate but it will also do it while cruising. I'm not sure if it does it in gears other then overdrive but I think it may. Any ideas on what the problem may be? Know any good web pages for taurus transmissions?
  • ddltrekddltrek Posts: 1
    How easy is it to replace a water pump on a 1998 Ford Taurus SE V6. The pump is on top of the engine. Repair shops want 70/hr x 2.7 hours
  • I am having the same problem with my 2000 Taurus. It started about a week ago when I noticed a whine coming from the power steering pump when I made turns. The fluid does look like it has been frothed, and there is fluid all over the engine now. There is also a hot electrical smell when I open the top of the power steering fluid reservoir.
  • moerodmoerod Posts: 7
    hi, a couple of weeks ago my 2001 sable ls premium with 80,000 started to sputter and shut of on me, i started to mess with the fuses checked the fuel pump fuse, took it out saw it was ok and put it back and when i turn on the car it started on and have not had any more problems since. today, when i turned the car on it sounded as if it wanted to shut off so i reved it and it stayed on, but i noticed that whenever i reach 4000 rpm the car starts to sputter, i've tried it several times, the car will be in park or neutral and if i rev it to 4000 rpm it sputters. any idea.
  • p0zburnp0zburn Posts: 2
    What transmission do they have in these things? I have 3.8 L engine.
    Do they take any special kind of ATF?
    Thanks
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Does anyone have accurate knowledge of how the hi pressure switch works. That is do both switches close together or is one or the other.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Probably don't need the logic on the hi pressure switch. Located the culprit. drilled the fasteners on the CCRM, little black box by the battery. It has hi & lo speed relays for fans, fuel pump relay, and a module for compressor. Acts like two relays, throwing power to clutch from dash switch via high pressure switch. And a line from PCM to break the contact during WOT. Drilling the second set of retainers to get the unit loose from the mounting plate confirmed an indication on the front of the unit. Part of the module was bulged out. The solder joint on the back side was melted loose. Not likely I'll find a unit today, but NAPA said they knew of a rebuilder of them.
  • I am in the middle of problem right now with front ball joints on a 1997 Taurus.
    I bought new ball joints and had a mechanic install them. The passenger side slid out of the knucle and is rubbing against the hub. In trying to get a good idea of what I was going to say when the car goes back to the mechanic, I look in my factory service manual. It says you are not supposed to remove the ball joints. If they are worn out you have to replace the entire knucle assembly with the ball joint already attached. This is probably true for your 2001 also. I also had a 1991 Taurus wagon with bad ball joints (after 200k miles!). In that case the ball joints were installed on a lower control arm.
  • Just spent the entire weekend trying to replace the 3 rear spark plugs on my 2000 Taurus. Finally gave up deciding this was an impossible task. I tried every possible way to get to these plugs. I tried to reach them from the top and bottom of vehicle. I tried to move the engine forward as i was instructed by the auto parts store where i bought the plugs, still no luck. The engineer who designed this engine should have his degree revoked and be sent to a gulog in SIBERIA!!! I am sure that if Henry Ford were alive today he would kick these engineers tails to the ends of the earth!!! I am sure that this design is on purpose so that you have to go to the dealer to get this work done. What a RIP-OFF!!!!! I even searched the computer forums for instructions and only came away with over 60 articles on why you should not buy a Taurus because of the spark plug replacement problems. I guess i should have researched all this before i purchased a Taurus!!! OH WELL, LESSON LEARNED!!! No more FORDS for me!!!
  • How did your brake job ever turn out?

    My 1997 has the access port right behind the read strut. I spent hours trying to back off the adjuster with no success.

    Here's what worked for me (you may not want to try this at home). Get a dremel with a cut off wheel. Make your own port on the out side of the drum. The steel is very thin. Then I could look right at the adjuster and turn it with my fingers. This is only effective if you plan on replacing the drum alreay.
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