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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

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  • I know this seems like a simple answer but the stabilizer bar links on my 98 taurus went bad and made a clunking noise. If you haven't checked them, they might be an easy fix. Hope this helps.
  • 2002 Taurus Dash Lights are not coming on with the rest of the interior/exterior lights. Would this be fuse or a bulb? Is the bulb able to reached under the dash?
  • Well I finally found out what was causing the problem. Doesn't do me any good but maybe if someone has the same problem they will be warned. The exhaust problem was actually excess water buildup coming out of the engine because the head gasket was blown. The 2nd repair shop I went to pulled one of the spark plugs and water shot out. Oh well time to get a new car.
  • mschmalmschmal Posts: 1,757
    This engine was JUNK :( You are luck you got as much out of that car as you did.

    Mark
  • I have a 96 Sable:
    My car is randomly overheating, and for the most part i do not have ANY heat, the only way I can get the car warm is to put it in Neutral and get the RPM'S up over 3000 and then it spits out some heat. Does anyone have any ideas before I blow a bunch of money? I have heard HEat COre (but then i heard i would never have heat if it were that) and I also have head the Water pump? I already replaced the thermostat on it and that was not it. Any healp would be great!!! Thank you!
  • pdc99pdc99 Posts: 1
    I did a lot of searching and reading articles on the web about how to replace the rear sway bar link that was broken on the back of a 1995 Ford Taurus. This was done after I had removed the top half of the old link that was still attached to the strut/shock. The following is the sequence I did to get the sway bar link replaced. Note that I only changed the one link, not both of them. And I did not do anything to the sway bar link on the other side of the car which was still intact and completely corroded on the threads due to having 110K+ miles on it.

    To start with I removed the wheel assembly to get room to work.

    To remove the top part of the broken link rod, I ended up taking a utility knife and cutting out one of the rubber bushings and then using a compressed air powered cut off grinder to cut the bolt where the bushing use to be. This was above the washer and below the angle bracket welded to the strut.

    I then put the new link in place at the top of the link/strut assembly and tightened down the nut good and tight.

    The new link was now hanging down with the end of the link a good 1.5 to 2" below the sway bar. And no amount of tugging and yelling was getting me anywhere on putting the link end through the hole on the end of the sway bar.

    I cam real close to bagging the operation and shipping the car off to the shop and admit defeat on something that only had two nuts to connect up.

    On a whim, I placed a 8" concrete block under the rotor/hub assembly with a 2x3 on edge under the hub and lowered the car onto this arrangement. Make sure the brake rotor portion clears the concrete block when you lower the car.

    When the car was down all the way there was even more of the link end hanging below the end of the sway bar.

    Now take the car jack to the other side of the car and jack that side up in the air. As you jack the opposite side up you will find that the end of the sway bar opposite of where you are jacking actually gets lower and lower. By jacking the car up high enough to spin the tire plus a couple of inches, I was able to get the end of the sway bar to be real close to low enough to force the link into the hole where it goes.

    I carefully climbed under the car, tugged the sway bar down just a tad and was able to get the link bolt/rod into the hole in the end of the sway bar.

    With one person slowly lowering the car jack and me holding the link rod in place and aligning the bushing with the hole in the sway bar it all went well. I then put the lower bushing on the link followed by the washer and nut and then tightened the bottom nut onto the link just like the top one was.

    By the time the jack is completely lowered everything is good and tight and back to where it needs to be with the new sway bar link standing up just the way you need to have it.

    No need to do both sway bar links or muck around with the link on the other side in order to replace only one of them.

    While it took a sizeable chunk of the afternoon to work this out, I think a single sway bar link could be replaced in an hour after all the tools were in place. Naturally, I ended up with a dozen trips to get various tools that I didn't think I would need up to that point. Plus all the think time on how to get the link rod unto the hole on the end of the sway bar.

    Now, it's a cake walk without getting myself killed by parts that are under stress flying about due to removing bolts I should not have.

    Cost for the replacement link from AutoZone was $11.00.

    And I got another justification to have all those tools, air compressor and grinders. :)

    Good luck on your replacement!
  • did you do the cam and crank sensors? I have the exact same problem with my sons car. we bought it for him while he was in Iraq and have NOT been able to let him leave the house with it since... so sad!!! he is getting ready to re-deploy to Iraq again and hasn't been able to take his car to base with him yet... I would appreciate any info you can give me... please email me at counselorin@insightbb.com as I JUST joined here and I have no CLUE as to how to find your answer in here... Thanks so much!!

    Marine MoM
  • eegguyeegguy Posts: 1
    MY SON HIT A CURB REALLY HARD AND I PUT A NEW WHEEL ON IT AND NOW THE WHEEL APPEARS TO SLANT INWARD AT THE TOP MAKING THE TIRE RUB THE STRUT ,I NEED TO KNOW WHAT I CAN CHECK AND POSSIBLY FIX BEFORE I TAKE IT TO THE SHOP. IT IS A 1998 FORD TAURUS WITH 15 inch WHEELS AND DISC BRAKES, PLEASE HELP !!!!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,588
    Probably a bent wheel, damaged tire, bent hub/spindle for sure, maybe damaged caliper and brake rotor. Let's hope the strut mounts aren't bent or the sub-frame.

    Try to stay in a good mood with this one, it could be ugly. Hope not, though.

    MODERATOR

  • Spring broke on the front of my 2003 Taurus.. I'm stuck at getting the pinch bolt OUT.. Have the nut off, but can't get the bolt to budge at all.. Is there a trick to it at all? I was told it should pop out with a few light taps, but doesn't move, and I can't unscrew it because there is a tab attached to the bolt that keeps it from twisting too far... Any suggestions, please?
  • Did you ever get this figured out? I'm having the same problem with my 1995 Taurus and I need to know how to get the fuse panel cover off. Thanks for any help!
  • Sounds like it could be the power steering pump.. We have a '99 Sable approx. 190,000 and turned heads when we turned a corner or tried to pull into a parking space. You may also have to bleed the line and that requires a special tool.
  • the fuse box cover on this model sticks...you just have to yank it...really hard.
  • ergo3ergo3 Posts: 3
    Fuse/Breaker is HOT !
    the upper oval thing in the fusebox...
    95 taurus
  • Check your sub frame bushings as well they will make a pop its a common problem in high milage sables and taurus's!
  • Is there a question there or are you making a statement. if its hot then don't touch it and if its broke then replace it !!!
  • ergo3ergo3 Posts: 3
    i replaced it.
    still very hot.
    next?
  • I everything working? If so I would just leave it alone unless it seems unusual to you. but your best bet is to just take it to a Ford Dealership and ask them. Make sure that its hot when you bring it to them so they don't just blow you off!
  • Hello, I have a 97 sable wagon, I turn the wipers on and they wont turn off unless I turn the car off, and they do not return to the down position. I tried a new combo switch on the column, I tried to swap the relays under the hood and has no effect. I know my 92 F150 had a wiper control box under the dash, does the sable have it also?

    Thanks
    Bob
  • Change your wiper motor and that should take care of it. If at all possible get one from a junk yard since those dont burn out very often.
  • I am looking for what I believe is called a suction hose for a 1995 Taurus. I The original part number is YF1971. This hose retails for about $190.00 which is way too much for my budget. I have found the other hose I need on Ebay but so far have not been able to find this hose for a reasonable price. Any suggestions? We are attempting to replace the compressor so I am piecing it all together to save on cost. Any info. would be appreciated.
  • OMG---Are Tauruses really that bad? I do have to say- although my fiance's 92 has many problems, (MANY....) it is still running strong! Sideskirts are faling apart, rust and corrosion all over, holes and rust near the gas tank, and some annoying transmission issues but it still shifts gears and runs.
  • Of course, the ideal sollution to a radiator hose leak is a new hose. But I was able to lessen the leak with some duct tape and a clamp, but when do I know that the engine is overheating if we are on the highway and air (from driving at those speeds) is keeping the engine cold enough for the temp reading to stay normal? Monday I have to drive to an early appointment, Early Tuesday the guy comes to replace the hose. I just want to be sure we do not blow the engine, since we will be driving for about 25 minutes on the highway, each way.
  • DUH! The last post was SUPPOSED to be a question, since I am actually hoping to hear someone elses opinions....Will my Taurus, given the circumstances in my last post, be all right for a round trip that will take the car on the highway for 25 or 30 minutes each way??
  • There is alot of pressure going through that hose! You are better off not takeing the chance (remember Murphy's Law always applies!). If you do how ever just watch your temp gauge, you won't blow your engine as long as you pull over when it over heats. Take comfert in the fact that you will just be stranded!
  • meekameeka Posts: 1
    My car killed while I was in an automatic car wash. Everytime I start it and try to accelerate, it kills! help!

    We tried changing the alternator,spark plugs,fuel pump, and another sensor but nothing has worked yet. The local ford dealership said they were unsure this time but thought it maybe my computer board. Once I got my care to roll far enough to get out of the car wash, I restarted it and it would not let me accelerate,so I put the car in drive and let it roll to a safer spot. The car continued to run in park but after about 5min it started running hot and all the radiator fluid starting coming out, one of my battery post corroded, and now the battery light stays on! Tell me whats wrong?
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Posts: 2,697
    The excitement surrounding the current Taurus has been underwhelming.

    http://www.thetorquereport.com/2008/01/mulally_announces_that_a_new_f.html


    The current Ford Taurus, which was a refresh of the slow selling Ford Five-Hundred has failed to meet expectations. Ford addressed many of the issues the Five-Hundred had, except for the overly bland styling. The styling changes that Ford applied to the new model have not attracted the audience Ford was looking for. The new Taurus should address these issues.
  • Hi, today my odometer quit working. My speedometer and RPM are working fine. I have 109,000 miles on my car. Can someone point me in the right direction for the repair?
    Thanks
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