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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

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  • My 2004 Taurus with the 3.0 Vulcan V-6(9,000 miles) has developed an oil leak.
    The dealer replaced the oil pan gasket last week but it still leaks. The oil is
    leaking from a hole located between the oil pan and the transmission pan, on
    the bottom of the bellhousing area. Could it be a leaking rear main seal?
    9,000 miles seems premature for the main seal to fail.
  • 307web307web Posts: 1,033
    Try having the dealer look harder for the leak next time since it should be under warranty.
    The source of leaks are not impossible to find.
  • The check engine light has been on for a few weeks and now there's engine hesitation in low gears... could it be just a plug or maybe O2 sensor?? Please respond before wife gets violent.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,564
    There was an extended warranty issued on, if I remember correctly, the "DPFE" sensor on my 2000 Taurus Duratech. If you are lucky, the problem could be this and you will get it fixed for free. I don't remember all the details as to how long the extended warranty for this particular part was, but I believe it was to 80K miles.

    Nothing has failed in this regard on mine to date, however, now at 50K miles.
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Posts: 33
    thanks man for the input i am the last guy to take a car in to a shop..... thanks anyway.... :)
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Posts: 33
    re; canuck version dont know was a leaser from cal. still got 49k on it.. :)
  • ram2442ram2442 Posts: 3
    No other symptons that I have seen. I have tried replacing the coolant temp sensor, and still no love. Wont start in the mornings without some starter fluid.
    I'm wondering is the TPS is intermittently misbehaving. I'm going to try wiping the ECM memory by pulling the fuse tonight.
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Posts: 33
    re no heat i dont understand what the deal is... i put water in it and now it works.... a a mechanic and dont undestand this concept ...nonetheless its working now be well thanx dude,,,, :)
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,564
    You mean your radiator was low and you filled it and now the heater works? Well if your cooling system was low that would have been the first thing I checked and filled to the proper level, though that in itself might not explain why your heater core was not getting any coolant. You could have cooked your engine if you were way too low.

    I hope you aren't filling your radiator with just water. You should be filling it with at least a 50-50 mix of anitfreeze and water.
  • monireemoniree Posts: 6
    Hey, did you ever figure what was wrong? I have a 99 Merc. sable. The OD light flashes on all the time. (There is no button on the gear shift)
    I took it to the mechanic. He said bad sylanoid. But I have the same question...would that make it shift hard? A mechanic told me to change the tranny fluid...make sure it has Mercon 5, I did that but still shifts hard/jerks. I am SO tired of the jerking, and don't want to spend the $400 to fix, if the sylanoid isn't the problem. Also, I drove it 5 hours away (10 round trip) and it was fine...fyi for your 2 hour trip.
    Any ideas would help! :sick:
    Thanks!
  • monireemoniree Posts: 6
    My 99 sable has a hard shift (but also has OD light on.) I changed the mototr mounts and tranny mounts, but it kept jerking, and I replaced the trans. fluid to make sure Mercon 5, still jerked. Mechanic says its the sylanoid, but I just can't wait to get to the car to unhook the battery like you said. How long should I leave it unhooked?
  • monireemoniree Posts: 6
    I can't tell you why it happned, but I can tell you what I think you should do about it... go to the junk yard, get a good used motor, and pay someone to put it in. It should save you @ $3500.
  • My '92 Ford Taurus has been overheating slightly. I replaced the thermostat with a cooler running thermostat and flushed and filled the radiator. It's still running a little too hot. Does anybody have any suggestions?
  • Did unhooking the battery work? I have had the jerking problem for a few months now, and yesterday the o/d light came on for the first time. Thanks.
  • Hi, I think I know something about Taurus overheating so I'll tell you what I think.
    I had my Taurus 96 overheating. It was quite weird: it was overheating in traffic jams and never on a highway or while idling.

    Here are the solutions for you:
    0) you got leaks and coolant leaks out - fix it for ~200$ or do-it-yourself for free. Or just add coolant each week.
    1) termostat may not work properly (if you see that after going up the temperature goes down - you termo is Ok - this is the way it regulates system)
    2) you don't have enough air (if you overheat in traffic jams) this is not necesseraly the reason - it may be that you cooler is not working and fan isn't strong enough to cool everything.
    ANyway - if you think it is fan - UNPLUG the temperature sensor for the fan. That is - there are two sensors attached to the cooling system - one measuring the temperature and the other one is sending a signal to the fan to turn on or off. (check the owner's manual). Now - if you unplug the one that sends signal to fan - the fan will be ON all the time. It will not damage you car, nothing bad - just the fan will be running all the time.
    3a) the last and the worst case scenario - you got something else.
    Try to listen to your engine with open hood. If you hear weird noises from the side of the serpentile belt - you may have problems with one of the pulleys. For example the bearring in the idle pulley is bad and it prevents the proper rotation of the belt --> thus it is not rotating the water pump properly and there is not enough circulation. Solution is to change the pulley (20$ for the part), installation ~1 hr (also change the belt as you have to take it off anyway ~15$ for the part)
    3b) water pump - same thing - change the pump (part 20$ on ebay). installation ~2hr (you can also change the belt)
    3c) WORST case scenario - you got cooling system clogged - go to mechanic and ask him to check pressure and try to flush it.

    I did ALL of these myself and it is damn easy - write me for descriptions. You don't have to spend 500-600 to fix it - it is all within 1-2 hr of work of any person capable of drilling a hole :-)
  • kevo1kevo1 Posts: 1
    I have a 96 Ford taurus, with about 140,000 miles. My transmission went out in January, and after a long decision on wether to scrap it and get another car i decided to put another trans in. the car is now running great. However, when I drive for several miles, the seat belt light comes on, and then the power steering locks up. Sometimes it will switch back and forth between the light and the power steering, but some times the power steering just goes out. Could this be an electrical problem, or is it something to do with the powering steering pump? I checked the fuse bock in the engine and in the car and they seem okay. That is, if I checked the correct fuses. Also, I noticed the engine shudders when i come to a complete stop when i stop in traffic. it never used to do this before I had this new trans put in. I asked the mechanic and he said it's nothing to worry about. Is that so, or could it be something more serious like the engine mounts? I would appreciate some feedback on this because, I've already put about 1200 into getting the car back on the road, and I would hate to put several hundred more dollars into the car? I would rather trade it in and cut my losses Thanks!
  • lowelowe Posts: 2
    I have a 1997 Ford Taurus GL. It has some serious cooling issues.

    One mechanic said it was a blown gasket. I hope not. We are serioulsy flushing the radiator, which is still showing a lot of rust. Just wondering what others have experienced with a bubbling Taurus. Tips sugguested?

    The car bubbles easily and it appears the engine is hot. Yet the temp. guage does not read hot. We have put in three thermostats this week, so don' tthink that's the problem.

    I'm in the the flushing stage for a few more days. Next step would be new radiator, and then blown gasket.

    I've heard of freeze plugs, a bypass kit, heater core hoses, etc.

    -Bob
  • here is the answer: message 1862
    My car is nor reading 'hot' either, but when you shut it down and turn on again - the reading goes up rapidly to the top. The reason is that your engine is not cooled properly or you temperature sensor is broken. You can find this sensor and replace it easily, it is on the right side of the engine, ~2 inch higher than transmission upper surface. It is plugged into the cooling hose.
    If it works properly than your problem is that the fluid is not cooling it enough. I am not sure if this is the case, but it may be so that you have some stuff blocking access to part of the engine and while the other part is not that hot and you reading is good, the overall temperature is high. That is just a guess hovewer.
    Good luck
  • My Brakes are making a little bit of a grinding noise. I am sure it is not the brakes but think it might be the brake booster. Does this sound right or could it be something else? And is this something I need to act on right away?
  • lowelowe Posts: 2
    Thanks for the response.

    I think the sensor is working, because I did overheat last week, and the thermostat does open.

    I think you are right about the blockage. Question is is where is it?

    I'm also having to add too much water. Don't know if it's circulating or where it is going. Some seeps out of the reservoir, but not as much as I've added.
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