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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    Been a long time since I've posted here. I hope this helps somebody, as it's a pretty obscure problem that is tough to track down. For years I had a mysterious problem with my alarm system where it would go off for no reason. I checked and rechecked the door and hood switches, wiring, on and on, and finally learned to lock the doors without engaging the anti-theft. Well recently while replacing the DPFE, I looked up at the hood and noticed a big pile of shredded rubber. This, I discovered, was the remains of a poorly designed stop that closes the hood switch. Of course the dealer couldn't find the right part, so I rigged up another plug in its place. Problem solved.

    So for anyone having an impossible to trace alarm problem on a 96/97 Taurus, check the rubber stop on the drivers side front corner of the hood.
  • selashselash Posts: 1
    Did you get an answer on this one? I want to replace a 94 Sable AXODE from a 3.0L with a AXODE from a 3.8L Taurus. If anyone can help? Will the swap work? Complications?
  • I would like to know the wiring diagram for a Mercury Sable GS 1995. I need to know what each wires does and which one I need to eliminate. I want to keyless control box in a different car. I do not know who to wire.
    Thank you!
  • idabooidaboo Posts: 2
    2001 Ford Taurus and was wondering if anyone can tell me how to disconnect the door keypad code? I have to do this I will be out of town for 8 weeks and my kid know the code. Thanks :mad:
  • WOULDN'T BE EASIER JUST TO CHANGE THE CODE , IT WILL BE IN THE DRIVERS HAND BOOK HOW TO DO IT
  • idabooidaboo Posts: 2
    yes but the code she know is the main code and you cant change that one. thats what ford tells me
  • My Grandson has just been given the car and I'm learning after the fact just how trouble prone the model is. :sick:

    Today I found that the serpentine belt tensioner pulley axle is vibrating against one of the A/C lines when the engine is idling in Drive. I was told that it doesn't make this noise when cruising on the road, and it doesn't make it when idling in Neutral or Park. This seems to indicate engine mount problems and I would appreciate comments or information which will lead me to a proper diagnosis.

    I am a retired mechanic and will probably repair this myself, providing I am able to get some guidance to any specific instructions I need. I'll buy a repair manual if I must, but would prefer something on line. I know generally, but am not familiar with this car (yet). :(

    Thanks for whatever help you can offer,
    bullybear
  • I guess my first post ( http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.ee994b2/2861 ) was too general as it got no reply, so let me be more specific.

    An engine lift is recommended to change one of the mounts. Which mount is this, and is it possible to change it without a lift (work-around using jacks)?

    Thanks!
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    You cannot change the main code, which is why you don't want to use that one generally, you want to put in a different code known to you. Then if someone finds it out, you can change it again.

    I would disconnect the battery, and lock the car up manually. It'll be safe and secure until you come home, unlock it with the key, raise the hood, and re-connect the battery. You should be fine. That's about all you can do.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    I don't know the specifics of the mounts, but you can grab factory shop manuals on ebay very cheap for your year of Sable/Taurus. They're more valuable than Haynes or Chilton's, which tend to omit a lot of critical information.

    I notice you mention the belt is "vibrating" and not just rubbing, so you may also take a look at the belt tensioner.
  • Thanks, but I bought a Haynes even though I knew there were many specifics that are not included in it.

    After I got the manual I found pretty good online help at AutoZone.com

    It turned out that the AC low pressure line had dropped down and I was able to reposition it and secure it to the strut tower, so I didn't have to change the motor mount/s after all. :shades:
  • "I'd agree. Those repairs sound about right for the mileage. Some people might tell you that they didn't have to do those things, but often those people just drive around with weak struts, leaking seals,etc. and don't even notice, or care."

    Sure enough there are people who drive cars without any maintenance. But I have '02 Sable with 105K miles I had zero issues or repairs - only regular maintenance. I bring it every 30K miles to dealer for service and perform other services myself, like oil change and tire rotation which includes checking brakes. I never replaced brakes because there are okay. There are no leaks. Since car has so many miles I check belts and even water pump every week and will replace water pump at 120K even it is still okay for preventive maintenance.

    I have a friend who bought his 3rd Camry in the row and he has much more issues than I have (which is zero) and he takes care of his Camries. Camry and Taurus are very similar vehicles in every aspect and there is no magic about Camry as many people think. It is just cheap mainstream sedan as Taurus and is similar in reliability. Toyota tries to save money on Camry in every possible way.

    Of course much depends on how you drive your cars. If it is mostly city traffic there will be more maintenance and more issues regardless of brand.
  • I have a 98 taurus I have replaced the IAC, the Maf, and the fuel regulator. All according to the computer, were causing this problem. It still doing the same /''`%# thing. When you're driving down the road it Idles up i have to keep my foot on the brake to maintain the speed limit. when you get to a stop sign it idles down and roughly then dies. It starts right back up. What else could it be? Thanks
  • My dash lights used to go out then come on again, work for months then more of the same. Well this time only the instrument cluster lights are out again for over a week, idiot lights and radio lights has never been a problem. I've read a least 5 posts here on Edmunds that have same exact problem with 2003 Taurus. There are no Technical bulletins or recall for this issue, has someone had this fixed and could you share how this problem was resolved? Thanks. : :sick:
  • Hi, I have the same year and engine Taurus as yours and had a problem real close to yours. I found that a rubber hose located on the back side of the engine had come off. It was hard to reach but if I remember right it was on the backside of the cylinder head a few inches or so in from the end of the engine nearest to the master cylinder. If you find the hose and it's still plugged in try unplugging it and see if anything changes. If nothing changes it might be the part the hose runs to. Hope this helps.
  • I had the same problem and found it to be the circuit board in the back of the speedometer cluster,not the fuses or headlight switch.
    I found an entire cluster on EBAY for $10 and simply swapped out the circuit board and it fixed the problem. I also gently pried the contacts out a little bit in the two main plug to the cluster to get a tighter contact.
    Hope this helps!!!! ;)
  • I had my engine replaced recently and now my engine light comes on. The code is p1309 and no one knows what it is. Failed my inspection twice. please help.
  • Turned the ignition and nothing happened. Turned the ignition to off the Check Engine light started flashing, and could hear clicking nose under the hood. Clicking was coming from the ECU or Body Control Module. Disconnected battery to keep from draining the battery. Got a new ECU from parts store, no change after installing new unit. Need help on what to do next.
  • has any one done one of these can u get to it thru the pan or is it more internal :sick:
  • Hi. Did you ever find out what was causing your problem. My car is doing the same thing. Idling high when driving and low when stoped.
  • HI NO I HAVE NOT FIGURED IT OUT YET......
  • Hi, I have a simple problem...I hope. When my 98 Taurus (135k miles) with the dohc 3.0 idles from a cold start (summer or winter) it stays up around 2200 rpm then drops to 1500 rpm before dropping to 900 rpm. It stays at 2200 and 1500 way to long to be a normal idle. If I put the car in gear it drops right to 900 rpm and stays there. There is no check engine light or stored codes for this. I'm thinking the idle air control valve but I don't want to just start replacing parts. I've tryed cleaning the IAC with no luck. Any ideas? Thanks.
  • IS THE TRANSMISSION LINE HID, BECAUSE I CAN NOT FIND IT TO PUT FLUID IN MY CAR, IT IS JOLTING WHENEVER I STOP. NEED HELP
  • Its down behind the back right hand side of the engine beside the power steering pipes. Not the best design for the sake of a longer filler pipe and fiderly to get the dip stick back in, for filling you will need the long neck transmission funnel from most auto shops cost about a couple of dollars or less.
  • i found out i had to get a long neck funnel so i could put transmission fluid in, there is a hole in my line, so i am getting that fixed this morning, hopefully that is all that is wrong with the car, thank you :)
  • I broke off part of my speed sensor inside my transmission I can't get the rest off it what can i do?
  • Have a 2001 Ford Taurus with same P0442 code relating to the EVAP (Evaporative Emission System). What became of your problem Alex?
  • Need to change the flex pipe on 99 dohc Sable. Looks like the original one on there. Is there any tricks to get pipe out from inside the back pipe. Can the new flex pipe installed like the original or does it have to be welded?

    Thanks, Scott.
  • I have an 03 Taurus SES with the heated outside mirror option.
    They are supposed to heat up when the rear window defogger is turned on, they don't.
    I suspect Ford put in a relay to send power to the mirrors. If so, where is the relay and which one is it?
    Thanks.
    Danford1
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