Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

19293959798148

Comments

  • Thanks alcan.
    Alan
  • I changed the lock cylinder but now the door alarm goes when I open the door whether the key is in the ignition or not. I bought the part at Canadian Tire and was wondering if it is an inferior product?
    Alan
  • I have a 1995 Taurus, (3.0L) with 185k highway commuter miles. The AC compressor is whining and has seized on occasion. I'd like to replace this myself. What are the steps to do this. The shop wants $960 to replace it. Over $600 is labor. Now I know why when I look at this.

    The car is still useful as a commuter car as I have taken care of it over the years, but it isn't worth paying almost a grand to repair.
    Thanks
    SCM1977
  • of the gas would be your biggest problem. By law you must hook your car up to a ref. recovery machine and remove the old gas. You also need to be certified to do so. When replaced the system must be put into a vacuum and then recharged. The rest of the job is really quite easy.
  • Sorry, I don't have an answer for you, but I have a '00 Sable and it has 99K..and it has had the same problem for the last 30k miles or so.....dealership says nothing is wrong...but it only starts on the second try, so let me know if you figure it out..
  • I have a 2001 Taurus Se that gets a really stinky odor every Autumn and winter. During the Summer and when the AC is on all day everything is OK but when I use the air vents on a cool day or turn on the heat the car smells like stinky socks.

    I have changed the hepa filter under the hood cowling and checked for leaks and found nothing. It's now getting coller again and I noticed that same odor today.

    Any suggestion? Ford Dealer is no help at all.

    Thanks
  • I have an 86 Taurus with 310,000 miles on the original 3.0 V6, bought it with 49,000 miles in 1992. Last week it would not start--seemed like it was out of gas, not a dead battery. The next day, it started fine, but idled too high, then dropped to a chug-chug-chug and stalled. That is all it will do now. It starts fine, runs bad for about 30 seconds, and dies. Today, a friend asked me if I had had the timing checked lately. Get this--I have never changed a timing belt/chain on this car at ALL. I can't believe I have let this go, but this car has never given trouble at all besides a tranny replacement at 70k.

    My question is this--Is it a timing belt or chain? Also--Is the replace interval 60k or 90k like most any other car? And the inevitable question, how much, ballpark, will it cost? Like most other Tauri nearing 20 years old I figure I have a car worth maybe $300, but it has been way too good to let go.

    Could it possibly be a different problem? I will note that the temperature gauge indicates that the car is running cold at all times, plus it has no heat. Thermostat, perhaps?

    Thanks!
    Steve Edge
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,564
    Tauri have never had any V-6 engines that had a timing belt, except maybe some of the SHO versions, but you obviously do not have one of those. Timing belts are more prevalent in the import brands, and even they are finally moving to timing chains as well. TIming chains generally last the life of the car, which in your case me be about now!

    With a car your age and mileage, it could be any number of problems, like bad fuel pump, plugged fuel filter, some electrical problem in the ignition system, etc, etc.

    It probably is not a timing problem, as there is to my knowledge no timing adjustment available, it is all electronic, even in a car this old.

    With a stuck open thermostat, you could have fouled spark plugs as well, as the engine is running much too cold for efficient combustion. Could be all kinds of things in the fuel system gummed up as well.

    I think you may want to actually break down an spend at least enough on it to get a professional diagnosis, then decide if you want to spend the bucks for repairs.

    It is a very high mileage car and could easily become a money pit. You could probably pick up another Taurus 10-15 years newer and with much less miles for not a lot of money, so it likely does not pay to put too much into it.
  • I replaced the ignition lock cylinder in my 93 Sable, and posted a message earlier stating that the door alarm now sounded with the key out. It has now stopped alarming, and I was wondering if the computer had to "learn" that there was a new lock cylinder installed?

    Thanks,
    Alan
  • I actually bought a(n) SHO new in 1993 because I liked my 86 so much, but it was the most horrible car I have ever owned. I replaced the auto trans twice and the starter three times in the 70000 (2 and a half years) miles I had it. Of course all was covered under warranty and I did not abuse the car, but it left me stranded several times.

    Here is what I plan to do to the 86, one part at a time. Checked compression this morning--it is fine.
    -thermostat
    -new plugs and wires
    -EGR valve
    -fuel system/intake system cleaning

    I am just going to take it step by step. I have two spare engines, so I am not hurting for parts. I can do most of the work myself, so I won't sink anything but time into it, and it IS for the most part, my back up car, so it's not an issue of convenience.

    Thanks for the recommendations. I will let you all know how it goes.

    Steve Edge
  • I need to replace the seatbelt/shoulder harness on my son's 2000 Taurus and I've located one from a junkyard. What's involved in removing the old one and replacing it with the one I'm buying? What tools are required? I'm looking for instructions or if it's too big a job for me, I'll take it to a service station. Thanks in advance for your ideas. Either post here or email: aea5jyahoo.com
  • :cry: CAN SOMEONE PLEASE HELP!!!!

    I have a 99 Merc. sable. The OD light flashes on all the time. (There is no button on the gear shift)
    I took it to the mechanic. He said bad solenoid and pressure sensor...would that make it shift hard? A second mechanic told me to change the tranny fluid...make sure it has Mercon 5, I did that but still shifts hard/jerks. I am SO tired of the hardshift, and don't want to spend the $400 to fix the solanoid if it won't solve the problem. I changed the motor mounts and tranny mounts, and I put in lucas tranny lube, unhooked the battery (to reset any bad codes)...and YES... still jerking.

    DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT"S I SHOULD DO???? PLEASE, PLEASE HELP!!! Reply on edmunds or moniree@yahoo.com

    Thanks!
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,564
    Well, unless you knew for sure they were bad, you probably changed the motor/transmission mounts without needing to, unless I am interpreting your post wrong. Bad mounts wouldn't seem to me to cause hard shifts.

    A sticking transmission solenoid or bad sensor, like your first mechanic diagnosed would make sense to me.

    If you are sick of the jerking but don't want to spend any money to repair it, you seem to be stuck with no solution. No one is likely to be able to wave their hands and make it go away!

    I suppose you could go get a third opinion for little cost, maybe from a Ford dealer shop who should know a bit about the cars and then make a decision.
  • My wife was recently involved in an accident with our '91 Ford Taurus. She was rear-ended, but, apart from fascia damage, there doesn't seem to be any significant damage. The weird part is that now, when we turn on the headlights, the dash gauge lights don't work. I've checked what I think is the appropriate fuse, and it looks fine. The display for the radio shows the station location when the headlights are not on, but goes completely dark when I turn the headlights on; usually the display just dims. I checked the Chilton guide and couldn't find anything that seemed helpful.

    Any suggestions?

    Strab
  • I have a low mileage (30000 km) 2002 Taurus with 24 valve engine. The car was purchased in Feb 2003 so its about 2 1/2 years old and therefore very "low mileage". About a year ago when the car was 18 months old I started to notice a rattling or banging noise under a cold start while in reverse. Once out of my 100 foot driveway & put into drive it goes away. I've asked about it at the dealership every oil change since then & today they've decided that due to the low mileage it must be carbon buildup. Does this seem reasonable? Car runs fine otherwise.
    Mileage not great 18-20 mpg in the city, 20--23 on the highway. Should this be a warranty repair? The dealership says it isn't because I "don't put on enough miles". Since when do warranties have mileage requirements?

    jerry
  • vlm2vlm2 Posts: 1
    My 99 Taurus has started to blow air conditioned air when the heater or defrost is on. It is definitaly AC air, colder by far than vented air. This happens about 95% of the time, or 100% of the time when its cold outside. Any help or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks :cry:
  • Need some guidance on replacing broken rear sway bar end link on a 2001 mercury sable.

    1. How do I move the sway bar enough to insert the new link?

    2. How tight should I turn the top and bottom bolts?.

    3. Should the rubber grommets be lubricated?

    4. Only one link is broken. Is it necessary to replace both links?

    Thank you
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Pretty straightforward job. Soak the studs and nuts with a good penetrating oil for a while before attempting removal. Replace the second link if either of it's boot seals shows any damage. Do not use any lubricant unless the replacement links are aftermarket and have grease fittings, in which case they'll require greasing after installation. Here's how:

    Stabilizer (Sway) Bar Links
    Ford Taurus/Sable Repair Guide

    1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
    2. Remove the sway bar (stabilizer bar) link-to-sway bar nuts at each strut assembly by holding the link stud with an 8 mm box wrench while removing the retaining nut with an 18mm open end wrench. Discard the sway bar link nuts.
    3. Remove the sway bar link-to-strut nuts and the links

    To install:

    4. Install the sway bar links to the sway bar and struts. Note the letters TOP LH and TOP RH on each link for correct positioning. Install new nuts. Hold each link stud with an 8 mm box wrench while installing the new retaining nut with an 18mm open end wrench. Tighten the nuts at the strut to 57-75 ft. lbs. (77-103 Nm) and the nuts at the sway bar to 35-46 (47-63 Nm).
    Use care not to damage the boot seals on the sway bar links. Do not use power tools for removal or installation.
    5. Lower the vehicle.
  • Looks like there is not enough room to insert the new link between the sway bar and the top seat. Does the sway bar need to be twisted or loosened?
  • No power steering, fluid leaks into rack and pinion. My landlord said there was a recall can't find it anywhere.only has 35,000 miles.
Sign In or Register to comment.